The Grim Reader: A Crochet Bookmark Pattern

Hello everyone! Today I have an exciting treat for all the bookworms and crochet enthusiasts out there. I’m thrilled to present my latest creation: The Grim Reader Bookmark. That pun made me laugh, so I had to use it to name this pattern. 

This crochet skull bookmark combines lace and literature with a touch of quirky charm. If you’re a fan of spooky tales, a lover of Gothic literature, or simply appreciate unique and eye-catching crochet bookmarks, this pattern is sure to get you inspired.

The Grim Reader Bookmark will serve as a companion for all your reading adventures and is suitable for both beginner and experienced crocheters. 

I’ve used white and black crochet thread for this pattern, but I encourage you to experiment with different colors to customize your skull bookmark according to your style and preferences.

Not only is this a fun and Gothic project for yourself, the Grim Reader also makes for a fantastic gift for fellow book lovers, teachers, librarians, or anyone who appreciates the charm of handmade bookmarks. Pair it with a book that exudes those dark academia vibes and you’ve got the best night in!

Check out the pattern below!

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Which one do you think looks better? I honestly like them both, but feel free to expand out and use any yarn color you like!

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Size:

  • After blocking, the bookmark is roughly 2.5in x 7.5 in

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Instructions:

  • The starting ch 2 is not considered a st.
  • The number in () indicates how many sts you should have at then end, including the chs.

The Grim Reader Bookmark Pattern:

Ch 20

  • Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in each ch across (18 sts)  
  • Row 2: Turn, ch 2 (starting ch does not count as hdc for this Row or for the rest of the pattern), 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip 3 sts, 1 hdc in next st, ch 7, skip 6 sts, 1 hdc in next st, ch 4, skip 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
  • Row 3: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 7 dc in ch 7 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
  • Row 4: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space) and 1 sc in 1st dc, ch 7, skip next 5 sts, sc in last dc, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
  • Row 5: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc, 7 sc in ch 7 space, 1 sc in next sc, ch 2, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (23 sts)
  • Row 6: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space), 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
  • Row 7: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 1, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 1, 1 hdc in 1st sc, ch 7, sc in ch 1 space, ch 7, 1 hdc in last sc, ch 1, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 1 sts (27 sts)
  • Row 8: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), 1 sc in next hdc, 7 sc in 1st ch 7 space, 7 sc in 2nd ch 7 space, 1 sc in next hdc, ch 2, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (24 sts)
  • Row 9: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in next 6 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
  • Row 10: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 1, hdc in ch 2 space, ch 1, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in next 10 sts, skip last sc, ch 1, hdc in ch 2 space, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
  • Row 11: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), skip next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
  • Row 12: Turn, ch 2 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, hdc in ch 4 space, ch 3, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in next 4 sts, ch 3, skip last sc, hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
  • Row 13: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in ch 2 space, 1 hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in ch 3 space, ch 6, skip next 4 sts, 2 hdc in ch 3 space, 1 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in ch 2 space, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (18 sts)
  • Row 14: Turn ch 2, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 6 hdc in ch 6 space, 1 hdc in next 6 sts (18 sts)

Repeat Rows 1-14 two more times for a total of 3 skull motifs. 

DO NOT CUT YARN.

Border: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, sc again in same st, going down the side of the bookmark, sc into the top of each hdc and the “leg” of each hdc. (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner st. I had 63 sts down each long side, and 18 sts on the short side, not including the two corner sts. Join with a sl st in ch 1 space. 

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in end with tapestry needle.    

Blocking: This is an optional step, but I recommend blocking your bookmark after weaving in your ends. I like to soak my projects in water for about a minute, then dry it with a towel by gently patting it dry (don’t wring it out), and pinning it to a pizza or a cardboard box to dry. To make the bookmark straight, mark with a ruler a few lines to help you when you pin. 

You can use this blocking board from Boye, it’s awesome because you can interlock them, so if you need a bigger area to block you can customize your space, AND it has lines already on it.

I hope that the Grim Reader bookmark will add a touch of macabre charm during your reading adventures, and be a reminder that crochet and books can intertwine in wonderful ways!

Thanks for reading, until next time!

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30 Beautifully Delicate Crochet Snowflakes

While the summer brings its scorching heat, why not find solace in the frosty beauty of these delicate and lacy snowflakes?

In this post, you’ll find a collection of 30 Beautifully Delicate Crochet Snowflakes, and the best part, is that they’re all free! So grab your crochet hook and pour yourself some iced tea, because these crochet snowflake patterns will help you beat the heat!

Click the pictures to reach the free patterns.

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#1 Wispweave Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

The Wispweave Snowflake is an eight round snowflake created by Julia Hart of Draiguna. This is one of her beautiful snowflake creations that will make a perfect decoration for any Christmas tree. This is an intermediate to advanced pattern, as it is made of cluster stitches and front post stitches, with the last round being the most complex of all the rounds. However, the instructions are clear and easy to follow, and she has pictures if needing help with the last round. 

This was one of my first crochet thread projects that I gifted to family members for Christmas a couple of years ago. My sister says that she uses hers as a decoration under candles during the holidays!

#2 Ariel Snowflake 

WRITTEN PATTERN AND CHART

The Ariel Snowflake is a ten point snowflake by Irina Maleeva. Consisting of eight rounds, this crochet snowflake pattern works up quickly, but looks intricate at the same time. This is another intermediate to advanced pattern due to the front post stitches and where they are placed, picots, and a few clusters. Her instructions are easy to follow as well.

#3 Chain Loop Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

The Chain Loop Snowflake is a four round pattern by Coats and Clark (published by Better Homes and Gardens). I was going to say that this is an easy/beginner snowflake (it really isn’t hard), but the pattern doesn’t provide a list of abbreviations used and I found that some of the instructions say to h3 on the last round…which I wasn’t sure what that meant, but then I figured they meant to type ch3 NOT h3. Lp means loop in this pattern. In the last round, they also forgot to add an extra dc at the beginning of the spaces consisting of the ch 5 picots (you’ll see if you follow the pattern exactly). Despite that, this is a really pretty snowflake!

#4 Snowflake Pattern 3

CHART ONLY

The Snowflake Pattern 3 by Natalyushka is a short, three round snowflake. The pattern is made available via a crochet chart, unfortunately I was unable to find a written pattern. You can check out the creator’s instagram @natalyushka_handmade.

#5 Star Snowflake 

WRITTEN PATTERN

Another Snowflake Pattern by Better Homes and Gardens, the Star Snowflake is a quick, three round snowflake. This is a very small snowflake, which is great to add some variety in sizes if you’re crocheting multiple snowflakes.

#6, 7, 8 Snowflake A, B, and C

WRITTEN PATTERN

These three crochet snowflakes are brought to you by Yarnspirations. These are perfect for the holiday season or for adding a touch of elegance to your home during the winter! Snowflake A features a series of double crochets, chains and picots. Snowflake B uses the same types of stitches as the first snowflake, but in a different, interesting combination. Finally, Snowflake C has a beautiful, 6 pointed star with picots surrounding the edges. Download the free PDF and get to crocheting! 

#9 Easy to Crochet Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN AND CHART ONLY

The Easy to Crochet Snowflake is made available by the blog, Turquoise with Vanilla. This pattern uses simple stitches, single, double, half double, and treble crochets (along with chains of course!). This is another, 6 pointed, 6 round snowflake, but is a little bigger than the other snowflakes above. She has easy instructions and a chart of the snowflake.

#10 Winterlore Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

Winterlore is another captivating crochet snowflake pattern by Julia Hart from Draiguna. This is an advanced level pattern that features 6 beautifully intricate rounds, resulting in a mesmerizing snowflake design that will add a touch of enchantment to your winter decor. You’ll need to know how to do front post stitches and I suggest sitting somewhere quietly to do this pattern.

#11 Snowflake Chart #6

CHART ONLY

This Crochet Snowflake, also provided by Turquoise with Vanilla combines the allure of a crochet snowflake with the delicate petals of a blooming flower. This snowflake features a series of treble clusters that resembles delicate flower petals blooming from the center. There is no written pattern for this snowflake that I have found, but there is a crochet chart complete with a symbol key available.

#12 Winter Dream Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

Introducing the Winter Dream Snowflake, another stunning pattern from Julia Hart of Draiguna. This is an advanced level pattern composed of 9 rounds, meticulously crafted with single and double crochet clusters, delicate chains and a series of pretty picots.

#13 Snowflake Pattern 2

CHART ONLY

This is another snowflake created by Natalyushka that is a chart only pattern. If you’re not familiar with reading crochet charts, I think these little snowflakes are a great way to break into that skill.

#14 Snowflake Pattern 4 

CHART ONLY

The Snowflake Pattern 4 by Natalyushka is an even shorter, two round snowflake. This pattern is another crochet chart without a written pattern that I could find.

#15 Snowflake Pattern 5

CHART ONLY

Another snowflake pattern from Natalyushka, this one is a short snowflake, with lovely, long picots that make up each point. Also a crochet chart only pattern.

#16 Wispvale Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

The Wispvale Snowflake, another beautiful pattern from Julia Hart of Draiguna, is an 8 round, 6 point snowflake. Made up of a combination of single and double crochets, front post stitches, and chains, the Wispvale Snowflake has a very intricate texture and looks very pretty.

#17 Winnipeg Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN AND CHART

The Winnipeg Snowflake is a 2 round pattern that details interesting points made of chains which create open holes. This snowflake would be perfect if using a bigger sized yarn. Please also note this pattern is written in UK terms, not US. You’ll need to scroll down to find the pattern.

#18 St. John’s Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN AND CHART

St John’s Snowflake is a delicate looking snowflake with lacy points. This is also written in UK terms, not US. You’ll have to scroll down to find this pattern.

#19 Snowflake-1

CHART ONLY

The Snowflake-1 Pattern is created by Olga Alex, and is a chart only pattern.This snowflake has a lot of lacy detail and when completely worked, is fairly large.

#20 Helena Snowflake

CHART ONLY

The Helena Snowflake is created by @onishchenko291. It is a beautiful, 8 round snowflake, composed of many front post stitches and picots. This is another chart only pattern.

#21 Hope Snowflake

CHART ONLY

The Hope Snowflake is also created by @onishchenko291. This is an interesting 12 point snowflake with 7 rounds with a combination of front post stitches, picots, and bobbles.

#22 Masha Snowflake

CHART ONLY

Another snowflake pattern by @onishchenko291, the Masha Snowflake is a 6 point, 7 round pattern. I think the points on this one look really good, I like how they appear “icy.” I’ve noticed that with some of her patterns, she doesn’t detail how you should start or end your rounds. Do the best you can and don’t overthink it.

#23 Natalya Snowflake

CHART ONLY

The Natalya Snowflake is again, created by @onishchenko291 (can you tell I absolutely love her patterns by now?). I really enjoyed this one, the long chains and the long points on the snowflakes make it look so very elegant.

#24 Starflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

This snowflake pattern has a cute little star crocheted in the middle of it. This is a 10 round pattern, although the creator does state that the last round is optional. She recommends switching colors throughout, but I prefer keeping mine all one color.

#25 Rhea Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN AND CHART

The Rhea Snowflake is a gorgeous pattern created by Irina Maleeva. This snowflake is made of puff stitches, front post stitches and picots. Not only does the author have a nicely written pattern, she also has an easy-to-read chart available.

#26 Adele Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN AND CHART

Another Irina Maleeva snowflake pattern, the Adele Snowflake is a 6 round, 6 point pattern with a lovely delicate and lacy look.

#27 A Snowflake for Bunny

WRITTEN PATTERN

A Snowflake for Bunny is a 7 round, 6 pointed snowflake. The last row is very interesting, as you’ll be making chains and slip stitching into those chains to create those icy points.

#28 Absaroka Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

The Absaroka Snowflake is yet another delicate, lacy pattern. I love the way this one looks, however the author’s pattern instructions get a little confusing at the last round. I had to look at her picture and make adjustments. (I think she may have omitted the first couple of stitches to start the round before the repeat).

#29 Big Wet Heavy Snowflake

WRITTEN PATERN

The Big Wet Heavy Snowflake really does look as its name implies. The long chains in the last few rows gives this snowflake an interesting look.

#30 Blue River Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

The Blue River Snowflake has big lacy holes that create a truly beautiful snowflake. This is only a 4 round snowflake and has an interesting way of starting the first round.

I hope you’ve found some inspiration in these 30 Beautifully Delicate Crochet Snowflake Patterns. Each creation is a testament to the artistry of crochet, plus they’re fun to make! Embrace the magic of winter even in the midst of summer! 

Until next time!

Crochet and Chill: 12 Ways Crochet Can Help with Stress and Anxiety

In today’s fast-paced and stressful world, finding moments of calm and respite is essential for our well-being. Thankfully crochet offers a sanctuary of relaxation, creativity, and tranquility that can melt away stress and anxiety.

In this blog post, we’ll explore 12 ways in which crochet can become a trusted companion on the journey to inner peace. From the relaxing, rhythmic motion of making stitches, to having a sense of productivity, each aspect of crochet holds the potential to nurture your mind, body, and soul.

#1 Mindfulness and Relaxation.

Crocheting provides a focused and repetitive activity that can promote mindfulness and relaxation. The rhythmic motions of crochet can help calm the mind and reduce the production and release of stress hormones such as cortisol and adrenaline. As these stress hormones decrease, the body can reach a state of relaxation.. 

#2 Stress Relief.

Engaging in crochet allows you to shift your focus away from stressful thoughts and worries. Concentrating on the stitches and patterns can provide a welcome distraction and help alleviate anxiety. The repetitive movements in crochet have also been found to activate the parasympathetic nervous system, which is responsible for promoting relaxation and reducing stress. This can result in physical changes, such as lower heart rate, decreased blood pressure, and an overall sense of calmness.

#3 Creativity and Expression.

Crocheting offers a creative outlet where you can express yourself through color choices, stitch combinations, and pattern modifications. This creative process can be empowering and provide a sense of accomplishment and joy.

#4 Sense of Productivity.

Completing crochet projects gives a sense of productivity and achievement. Seeing tangible results from your efforts can boost self-esteem and create a positive mindset. With each stitch, row or round completed, you can see your project take shape and evolve into something beautiful.

#5 Sensory Stimulation.

The tactile experience of working with yarn and feeling the textures can be soothing and comforting. The softness and texture of the yarn, and the repetitive motion of crocheting provides a calming effect similar to other forms of repetitive activities like coloring or knitting.

#6 Mindful Breathing.

Crocheting can be combined with mindful breathing exercises to further enhance relaxation. Focus on your breath as you work on each stitch, taking slow, deep breaths, and allowing yourself to fully immerse in the present moment. Deep, slow breathing is associated with the activation of the parasympathetic nervous system, shifting the body into a state of calmness.

#7 Social Connection.

Crocheting can be a social activity, whether through joining crochet groups and forums, attending classes, or sharing your projects online. Engaging with a community of like-minded individuals can reduce feelings of isolation and provide support and encouragement.

#8 Emotional Outlet.

Crocheting can serve as an emotional outlet, allowing you to channel and process your emotions through the act of creating something beautiful. It provides a healthy way to express and release feelings of sadness, stress, and anxiety. 

#9 Portable and Convenient.

Crocheting is a portable and convenient hobby that can be done almost anywhere. You can easily pack your yarn, hooks, and other tools into a bag or pouch, making it easy to take to work, during commutes, or while waiting for appointments. This flexibility allows you to engage in crochet during moments of stress or anxiety, providing an instant source of comfort. 

#10 Mindful Focus.

The repetitive nature of crochet encourages focused attention on the task at hand. As you concentrate on each stitch, your mind becomes absorbed in the present moment, allowing you to let go of all the worries or stressors that may be occupying your thoughts. 

#11 Dopamine Release.

Engaging in the rhythmic motion of crochet can also stimulate the release of dopamine, a neurotransmitter that is associated with pleasure and reward. This can contribute to a feeling of relaxation, contentment, and even a sense of achievement when you complete crochet projects.

#12 It’s Fun.

Crochet can be fun and full of delightful surprises. From watching your project grow and evolve, to discovering new and beautiful ways to add color and interesting stitches, each step can be a fun way to spend your time. Plus knowing that your creation is a one-of-a-kind labor of love can bring an unparalleled sense of joy and fulfillment.

I hope you’re feeling inspired and ready to embrace the therapeutic power of this beloved craft.

Remember, that the benefits of crochet go beyond the finished project. It’s the process itself that brings a sense of peace and restoration.

So make time for yourself, create a cozy space, and allow crochet to become your refuge-a place where you can unwind and let go of all your worries.

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How to Crochet with Black Yarn: 12 Game Changing Tips for Your Next Project

Crocheting with black yarn can be challenging, but it’s also a great way to add a bit of drama and sophistication to your crochet projects. Whether you’re working on a black sweater, a dark blanket, or black colored amigurumi, using this colored yarn can create striking and elegant effects.

However, crocheting with black yarn can be frustrating, especially if you’re struggling to see your stitches or keep making mistakes.

That’s why I’ve compiled a list of 12 game-changing tips for crocheting with black yarn. From lighting, to tension, these tips will help you work with black or dark colored yarn more confidently and without the stress. 

So if you’re ready to take your crochet skills to the next level, read on to discover my top tips for crocheting with this kind of yarn!

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

#1 Use good lighting.

Stitches formed with black yarn can be difficult to see, so it’s important to use good lighting while crocheting. Consider working in a well-lit area (a window with natural lighting is best). Use a lamp or try using a wearable lamp, like a headlamp or a neck lamp to help illuminate your work.

Here’s a LED Neck Lamp from Glocusent that doesn’t look dorky and has great lighting.

#2 Choose the right yarn weight.

Thicker yarns can be easier to work with when using black or darker yarns, as the stitches become bigger and more visible. Consider using bulky or super bulky weight yarn for your crochet project.

Try Bernat’s Super Bulky Yarn in Coal, it’s reasonably priced for the yardage provided and it’s soft.

#3 Use stitch markers, especially contrasting ones.

Using stitch markers in a contrasting color can help you keep track of your stitches while crocheting with black yarn (especially if you’re like me and are attempting your first crochet amigurumi with black yarn!). Using stitch markers helps you count and keep track of your stitches if you’re having issues finding them.

I like to use these stitch markers from Cusimax, there’s 120 markers, with 10 different colors, plus it comes in a nice little container to keep them in.

#4 Take breaks.

Crocheting with black yarn can be visually and mentally tiring, especially if you’re having to frog all the time from mistakes. Take frequent breaks to give your eyes and your brain a rest.

#5 Use a light-colored background.

When working with black yarn, it can be helpful to use a light-colored background for your work, this can make it easier to see your stitches and help prevent mistakes. I like to use a white poster board to lay my black yarn projects on while crocheting, but white copy paper works great too.

#6 Use a lighter-colored hook.

There are so many different kinds of crochet hooks with various colors out there. Consider using a lighter-colored aluminum or plastic hook to make it easier to see your stitches. There are also crochet hooks that have LED lights in them you could try!

I actually use this light-colored crochet hook set from Boye.

And I’ve never used them, but here’s a LED lit, 10 piece crochet hook set from EEEkit that is reasonably priced with good reviews.

#7 Check your tension.

If you tend to crochet with a tighter tension, it can be hard to see your stitches as they will appear smaller. Check your tension regularly as you work if you’re having a hard time. I know my tension is too tight if I have a hard time inserting my hook into stitches. You can also check your tension by measuring your gauge or comparing our work to the pattern instructions. 

#8 Use a magnifying glass.

Yep, I said it. For some determined, but visually impaired crocheters, using a magnifying glass might be helpful, especially for intricate patterns with fine details. Look for hands-free magnifying glasses or one that you can place on a stand to make it easier to use while your hands are busy crocheting. 

Here’s a Hands Free Magnifying Glass for Neck Wear by LafaVida.  

And I had a good laugh at this one, but if you want to go full tactical and don’t care what people think (you’re working here darn it!), check out this Illuminated Headband Magnifier from MAGNIPROS.

#9 Use good posture.

Maintaining good posture while crocheting can help prevent eye strain, wrist pain, and fatigue when working with black yarn. Remind yourself to sit up straight and keep your work at a comfortable distance from your eyes.

#10 Experiment with different textures.

Using a textured or bumpy yarn can help you differentiate between stitches when working with black yarn. Try a pattern that uses popcorn or bobble stitches for added texture.

#11 Use taller stitches.

Try crocheting with double or even treble crochets if you’re having a difficult time seeing stitches with black yarn. It can be hard to identify stitches if using single or half double crochets. It may be easier for you to correlate/count the top of your stitches with the posts of the double or treble crochets.

#12 Choose the right pattern.

Not all patterns are suitable for black yarn, especially if they have tiny or subtle details. When choosing a pattern, look for designs with larger stitches or bold, graphic elements that will show up well in dark yarn.

With these 12 game-changing tips, you’re well on your way to mastering the art of crocheting with black yarn. Remember to take breaks, adjust your lighting and experiment with different textures and patterns to find what works best for you.

With practice and patience, you’ll be able to create beautiful, sophisticated projects that showcase the beauty and drama of black yarn. 

Thank you and happy crocheting! Until next time.

Crochet Pokemon Hat – Pokeball (1-3 Months)

Hey everyone, today I have a Crochet Pokeball Hat Pattern for you!

Are you a fan of Pokemon and looking for a fun way to show off your love for the popular franchise on your little baby? Look no further than this Pokeball-inspired crochet hat! This pattern combines the classic look of a winter hat with the iconic design of a Pokeball, making it the perfect accessory for any Pokemon loving parent. 

Whether you’re braving the cold on a winter day or heading to a Pokemon-themed event with your little one, this hat is sure to turn heads and showcase your love for the game. With easy-to-follow instructions and a simple colorwork design, this pattern is suitable for crocheters of all skill levels. So grab your hooks and yarn, and let’s get started creating your own crochet Pokeball hat!

Be sure to check out some of these other Pokemon Crochet patterns I’ve made!
How Do I Put an Image on a Crochet Hat?

I’ve been curious as to how to put an image on a crochet hat myself, and I think I’ve FINALLY cracked the code. I use the free chart making website, Stitch Fiddle, to do this.

I make an image on Stitch Fiddle, in this case the Pokeball, and I substitute each square on the chart as 1 single crochet in the hat. 

Now, you have to make sure that your image isn’t very big or you’ll have a ginormous, wonky looking crochet hat. Single crochets are also the only way to get your image to work without it getting too distorted (half double crochets and double crochets will make the image too “skinny”). Single crochets have a 1:1 ratio, meaning that they are as tall as they are wide.

I also think it’s best to get an idea of how big your hat needs to be by crocheting until you’ve reached your desired crown diameter and then single crochet a short row (like only make 3 or 4 single crochets, turn and ch 1, etc.) on the hat until you’ve reached the appropriate length for your crown diameter size. 

Look at the amount of rows you single crocheted until the desired length and then count how many you have. That is how many squares long your image can be. The total amount of single crochets you have after you’ve reached your crown diameter is how wide your image can be. 

In the case of the Crochet Pokeball Hat Pattern, I’ve increased until I had a total of 56 stitches. Measured out, I was able to have about 14 rows or 14 squares high to fit an image before the hat would be too long.The Pokeball image is 12 squares high and 12 squares wide, which was the perfect size to fit an image in the middle of the crochet hat.

What is the Crown Diameter and How Do I Find It for My Hat?

The crown diameter is how wide your hat needs to be before you start lengthening. You crochet by increasing stitches in every round until you reach your crown diameter.

It seems like many crochet hat chart sizes have different recommendations for crown diameter and length based on age. To obtain a truly accurate measurement, obtain your head circumference with a tape measure or a piece of string (and then measure the string on a ruler). Take your head circumference number and divide it by 3.14, this is your crown diameter.  

Will this Pattern Work for Other Hat Sizes?

Yes, the Crochet Pokeball Hat technically can be worked for other head sizes (except for newborn). The pattern I have available is made for a 1-3 month old…but you can increase until you hit your crown diameter (as explained above), and use the chart below to place your pokeball, but increase on each side of the pokeball to accommodate the increase in total stitches. You will also have to add a few more rounds below the pokeball to obtain an appropriate length. 

How Do I Change Yarn Colors?

Switch yarn colors the square before the needed color change. This post explains how to color change the right way for this crochet hat pattern. You want to single crochet up to the square before the color change, but don’t finish it all the way! Place the new color on your hook and pull through, proceed to crochet with the new color.

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Hat Size: 

Crown diameter is 4.5 inches and length is 5.25 inches (not including the pom pom). Size may vary depending on your tension and if you use a different yarn/hook size.

Materials Needed: 

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
  • STW – switch to white yarn
  • STB – switch to black yarn
  • STR – switch to red yarn

Special Instructions:

  • The beginning ch 1 does not count as a st.
  • Rounds are worked by turning after each completed round. This makes it easier to carry the yarn colors with you back and forth.
  • The number in () at the end of the round, indicates how many stitches you should have completed. 

Here is the image of the chart I used to make the hat:

Crochet Pokeball Hat (1-3 months)

With white yarn

  • Round 1: 8 sc in mc, sl st into first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st into first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st around, sl st into first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts around, sl st into first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts around, sl st into first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts around, sl st into first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts around, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 26 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 26 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 24 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STR, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 24 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 10: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 23 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STR, 1 sc in next 8 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 23 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 11: Repeat round 10. (56 sts)
  • Round 12: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 22 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STR, 1 sc in next 10 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 22 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 13: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 22 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STR, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STR, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW 1 sc in next 22 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 14: Ch 1, 1 sc into next 22 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STR, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STR, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 22 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 15: Ch 1, 1 sc into next 22 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next st, STB, 1 sc in next 3 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 3 sts, STW, 1 sc in next st, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 22 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 16: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 23 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 3 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 3 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 23 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 17: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 23 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 8 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 23 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 18: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 24 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 24 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 19: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 26 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 26 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 20: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog around, sl st into first st (48 sts)
  • Round 21: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog around, sl st into first st (40 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in ends with tapestry needle.  

Pom Pom:

  • To make a pom pom out of yarn, cut a long length of yarn (about 12 inches or so) and set aside. 
  • Wrap the yarn around four fingers about 70 times (or until you’re happy with the thickness of your pom pom). 
  • Carefully slide the yarn off your fingers and onto the string of yarn you cut first. Tie the yarn tightly around the bulk of the yarn you wrapped. 
  • Use your scissors to cut the loops made on both sides. Trim up any long pieces.
  • Sew the pom pom into the center of the hat with tapestry needle.

Thank you very much for checking out the Crochet Pokeball Hat Pattern! I hope that you enjoyed making this fun and whimsical hat. I can’t wait to see all of your amazing creations! Be sure to tag me @strommercrafts 🙂

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Crochet Veil Pattern – Little Leaf Trellis

Hello everyone, I hope you have had a lovely spring so far. Today I have another beautiful crochet veil pattern for you, the Little Leaf Trellis Veil! 

This lacy crochet veil is created with chains and little “leaves.” After a few rows worked, it really does look like a pretty trellis.

Here’s a close up of the pattern:

As always, these crochet veil projects tend to take a while to finish (at least if you’re like me and devote an hour or two a day). This one took me about a month to finish, but this depends on your length and size.

Check Out These Other Crochet Veil Patterns:

The Little Leaf Trellis crochet veil is sewed into an infinity style veil. I usually just take both ends of the veil, line them up as straight as possible, and slip stitch my way down to sew it in place. You can easily adjust to the length you need in the foundation row. The formula is a series of 12 chains, no need to add turning chains for this one.

Need help sizing your veil? 

Take your foundation row and drape it loosely over your head. Bring the ends together and add more or less chains. I like to have my crochet infinity veils down to my chest so it doesn’t feel too restrictive.

When and why do you wear a veil?

These veils are typically worn during Catholic Masses. Veiling during mass was the norm prior to the Vatican II counsel and was officially dropped from the new Code of Canon Law in 1983. Despite veiling no longer being required, many women still choose to implement the practice as a sign of modesty and respect at Mass.

I always try my best to make pattern instructions clear and easy to follow, if you find a mistake or need help, please make a comment below.

Okay, let’s jump into the pattern! 🙂    

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US, not UK terms.

  • Ch(s) – chain(s)
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Tr – treble crochet
  • Dtr – double treble crochet

Special Stitches:

  • Ch 3 Picot – chain 3, insert hook into previous sc made, and make a slip stitch. 
  • Leaf – Step 1) after chaining the specified number of chains, take your hook out and leave a loop at the top big enough to grab later, insert hook into the 6th ch away from the top. Step 2) Grab the loop you left and pull through. Step 3) Ch 6. Step 4) Make a sc into the 6th ch away from hook. 
Leaf step 1
Step 1
Leaf step 2
Step 2
Leaf step 3
Step 3
Leaf Step 4
Step 4

Little Leaf Trellis Crochet Veil Pattern:

Make a series of 12 chains until desired length is reached.

Row 1: Insert hook into 12th ch from hook and make a sc, *ch 15, skip 8 chs, make a sc in next ch, ch 5, skip 2 chs, sc into next ch.* Repeat from *to* until end.

Little Leaf Trellis Veil Row 1
Row 1

Row 2: Turn, ch 7, skip 2 chs, sc into next ch, ch 9, take hook out and insert into 6th ch away from where your hook was, grab loop at top and pull through, ch 6, insert hook into 6th ch away from hook, make a sc, insert hook into “middle of leaves” just made, and insert hook into 4th ch in the ch 15 space from previous row, make a sc, *ch 7, skip 3 chs, sc in next ch, ch 13, take hook out, insert into 6th ch away from hook, grab loop, pull through and ch 6, insert hook into 6th ch away from hook, make a sc, insert hook into “middle of leaves” just made, skip 3 chs, sc into next ch, ch 3, make a sc in 3rd ch of next ch 5 from previous row, ch 9, take hook out, insert into 6th ch away from where hook was, grab loop and pull through, ch 6, insert hook into 6th ch away from hook, make a sc, insert hook into middle of leaves, make a sc into 4th ch of next ch 15.*

Repeat from *to* until last repeat, ch 7, skip 3 chs, sc in next ch, ch 13, take hook out, insert into 6th ch away from hook, grab loop, pull through and ch 6, insert hook into 6th ch away from hook, make a sc, insert hook into “middle of leaves” just made, skip 3 chs, sc into next ch, ch 3, make a sc in 3rd ch of next ch 5 from previous row, end with ch 3, and tr into 3rd ch away. 

Little Leaf Trellis Veil Row 2
Row 2

Row 3: Turn, ch 15, skip over first set of “leaves” and sc into 4th ch of next ch 7 space, ch 5, sc into 4th ch of next ch 7 space, *ch 15, skip over next two “leaves,” sc into 4th ch of next ch 7 space, ch 5, sc into 4th ch of next ch 7 space* Repeat from *to,* end with ch 12, tr into 4th ch of last ch 7 space.

Little Leaf Trellis Veil Row 3
Row 3

Row 4: Turn, *ch 7, skip 3 chs, sc in next ch, ch 13, make a leaf (see special stitches above), skip 3 chs, sc in next ch, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5, ch 9, make a leaf, sc into 4th ch of next ch 15 space,* Repeat from *to* until last repeat, ch 7, skip 3 chs, sc into next ch, end with ch 4, tr into 4th ch.

Crochet llt veil row 4
Row 4

Row 5: Turn, *ch 5, skip next ch 7, sc into 4th ch of next ch 7 space, ch 15, skip over next 2 leaves, sc into 4th ch in next ch 7 space.* Repeat from *to,* end with ch 5, sc into 4th ch of last ch 7 space. 

Little Leaf Trellis Veil Row 5
Row 5

Row 6: Turn, ch 7, sc into 3rd ch of next ch 5 from previous row, *ch 9 and make a leaf, sc into 4th ch of next ch 15, ch 7, skip 3 chs, sc into next ch, ch 13, make a leaf, skip 3 chs and sc into next ch, ch 3, sc into 3rd ch of next ch 5.* Repeat from *to* until end. Ch 4, dtr into top of tr from previous row.

Row 6 llt veil
Row 6

Repeat rows 3-6  

End on a Row 6 repeat

Edging:

Turn, ch 1, *3 sc into ch 5 space, ch 3 picot, 3 sc into same ch 5 space, (3 sc into next ch 15 space, ch 3 picot, 6 sc in same ch space, ch 3 picot, 6 sc in ch space, ch 3 picot, 3 sc in ch space)* Repeat from *to.*

DO NOT CUT THREAD.

Assembly:

Take both edges of the veil and line them up as evenly as possible. Insert hook into both sides and slip stitch your way down to sew into an infinity style veil. Alternatively, you can cut a long enough piece of thread and sew with your tapestry needle. Cut thread with scissors and weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Thank you for checking out the Little Leaf Trellis Crochet Veil pattern! Until next time.

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Flower Diamond Crochet Veil Pattern

Hello everyone, today I have another free crochet veil pattern for you all…the Crochet Flower Diamond Veil! This crochet veil has a 10 petaled flower worked in a diamond shape and sewn into the infinity style. I hope you like it!

This veil pattern is created for use at Catholic mass, or at least, that’s what I use it for! Some women wear a veil during mass as an outward way to humble themselves before God. According to Fr. Anthony Dorsa from Catholic Answers, “…women are to be veiled in the presence of that which is holy, because they themselves are, in a sense, sacred.” 

As with some of my previous crochet veil patterns, this is a project that will take a little bit of time to complete. Using the tiny crochet thread makes the veil look dainty, and because of that, it’s a labor of love. I believe this veil took me about 3 weeks to finish. Of those 3 weeks, I worked on it for about 1-2 hours a day, your time may vary of course.

The Flower Diamond Crochet Veil is worked up in 10 rows and then repeated from rows 3-10 until you’ve reached your desired length. 

The veil can be adjusted in length, the repeat formula is 36+4. This means to make a series of 36 chains until you’re happy with the length and then add 4 more chains for the turning chain.

I suggest making your starting chain and then draping it over your head, while bringing the ends together to get an idea of what size you need. I like to give my veils enough room around my neck and chest area, otherwise I feel constricted.

Okay, let’s get into this beautiful crochet veil pattern!

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Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

  • Ch(s) – chain(s)
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • Tr – treble crochet
  • Ch 3 picot – ch 3, insert hook into top of last stitch, make a slip stitch
Flower Diamond Veil Close Up

Flower Diamond Crochet Veil Pattern

Ch a repeat of 36+4 until desired length.

  • Row 1: Dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 5, skip 5 chs, 1 sc in next 5 chs, *ch 5, skip 5 chs, 1 dc in next 3 chs, ch 5, skip 5 chs, 1 sc in next 5 chs.* Repeat from *to* until 7 chs are left. Ch 5, skip 5 chs, 1 dc in last 2 chs.
Row 1
  • Row 2: Ch 3, turn, skip first dc, *dc in next dc, 1 dc in 1st and 2nd chs of next ch 5, ch 5, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, skip 3 chs of next ch 5, 1 dc in 4th and 5th chs, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc.* Repeat from *to* until last repeat completed. Dc in next dc, 1 dc in 1st and 2nd chs of next ch 5, ch 5, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, 1 dc in 4th and 5th chs of next ch 5, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in top of turning ch from previous row.
Row 2
  • Row 3: Ch 8, turn, skip next 3 dc, *1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in 1st and 2nd chs of next ch 5, ch 3, skip next sc, tr in next sc, ch 3, skip 3 chs of next ch 5, 1 dc in 4th and 5th chs, 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, tr in next ch 1 space, ch 4, skip next 2 dc.* Repeat from *to* until last repeat completed. 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in 1st and 2nd chs of next ch 5, ch 3, skip next sc, tr in next sc, ch 3, skip 3 chs of next ch 5, 1 dc in 4th and 5th chs, 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, tr in top of ch 3 turning ch from previous row.
Row 3
  • Row 4: Ch 1, turn, skip tr, sc in 1st ch of next ch 4, *ch 4, skip next 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch 3 space, ch 1, skip tr, 2 dc in next ch 3 space, 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, skip next 2 dc and 3 chs in next ch 4 space, sc in 4th ch, sc in tr, sc in 1st ch in next ch 4 space.* Repeat from *to* until last repeat completed. Ch 4, skip next 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch 3 space, ch 1, skip tr, 2 dc in next ch 3 space, 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, skip next 2 dc, skip 3 chs of previous rows turning ch, 1 sc in next 2 chs.
Row 4
  • Row 5: Ch 1, turn, skip 1st sc, sc in next sc, sc in 1st ch of next ch 4 space, *ch 5, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc, ch 5, skip next 2 dc, skip 3 chs of next ch 4 space, sc in next ch, 1 sc in next 3 sc, 1 sc in 1st ch of next ch 4 space.* Repeat from *to* until until last repeat completed. Ch 5, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc, ch 5, skip next 2 dc, skip next 3 chs of next ch 4 space, sc in next ch, sc in next sc, sc in ch 1 turning ch from previous row.
Row 5
  • Row 6: Ch 1, turn, skip 1st sc, sc in next sc, skip next sc, *ch 5, skip 3 chs of next ch 5 space, dc in 4th and 5th chs, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip dc, dc in next dc, dc in 1st and 2nd chs of next ch 5 space, ch 5, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, skip next sc.* Repeat from *to* until last repeat completed, ch 5, skip 3 chs of next ch 5 space, dc in 4th and 5th chs, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip dc, dc in next dc, dc in 1st and 2nd chs of next ch 5 space, ch 5, skip next sc, sc in next sc, sc in ch 1 turning ch from previous row.
Row 6
  • Row 7: Ch 7, turn, skip next 2 sc and 3 chs of next ch 5 space, dc in 4th and 5th chs, *dc in next dc, ch 4, skip next 2 dc, tr in ch 1 space, ch 4, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in 1st and 2nd chs of next ch 5 space, ch 3, skip next sc, tr in next sc, ch 3, skip next sc, skip 3 chs of next ch 5 space, dc in 4th and 5th chs.* Repeat from *to* until last repeat completed, dc in next dc, ch 4, skip next 2 dc, tr in ch 1 space, ch 4, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in 1st and 2nd chs of next ch 5 space, ch 3, skip next sc, tr in ch 1 turning ch of previous row
Row 7
  • Row 8: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc, *ch 4, skip next 2 dc and 3 chs of next ch 4 space, sc in 4th ch, sc in tr, sc in 1st ch of next ch 4 space, ch 4, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch 3 space, ch 1, skip tr, 2 dc in next ch 3 space, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* until last repeat completed, ch 4, skip next 2 dc and 3 chs of next ch 4 space, sc in 4th ch, sc in tr, sc in 1st ch of next ch 4 space, ch 4, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 7 turning ch from previous row.
Row 8
  • Row 9: Ch 3, turn, skip 1st dc, dc in next dc, *ch 5, skip 3 chs of next ch 4 space, sc in 4th ch, sc in next 3 sc, sc in 1st ch of next ch 4 space, ch 5, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc, skip next 2 dc.* Repeat from *to* until last repeat completed, ch 5, skip 3 chs of next ch 4 space, sc in 4th ch, sc in next 3 sc, sc in 1st ch of next ch 4 space, ch 5, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in top of ch 3 turning ch from previous row.
Row 9
  • Row 10: Ch 3, turn, skip 1st dc, *dc in next dc, dc in 1st and 2nd ch of next ch 5 space, ch 5, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, skip next sc and 3 chs of next ch 5 space, dc in 4th and 5th chs, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc.* Repeat from *to* until last repeat completed, dc in next dc, dc in 1st and 2nd ch of next ch 5 space, ch 5, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, skip next sc and 3 chs of next ch 5 space, dc in 4th and 5th chs, dc in next dc, dc in top of ch 3 turning ch from previous row.

Repeat rows 3-10 until desired length. End after a row 3 repeat. 

Row 10
  • Edging: Ch 1, turn, *sc in tr, 2 sc in next ch space, ch 3 picot, 2 sc in same ch space, sc in next 3 dc, 2 sc in next ch space, ch 3 picot, 2 sc in same ch space.* Repeat from *to* until end. 

DO NOT CUT THREAD

Edging
  • Assembly: Fold the veil in half, sew the edges together by slip stitching into both sides as evenly as possible. Cut thread, sew in ends with tapestry needle. 

Thank you for trying out the Flower Diamond Crochet Veil pattern. I try my best to make pattern instructions as clear as possible, but if you have questions or notice a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Until next time!

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Floral Lace Infinity Veil – Free Crochet Veil Pattern

Hello everyone, today I have another beautiful crochet veil pattern that you can wear to mass for you…the Floral Lace Infinity Veil! With spring just around the corner, I wanted to create a veil that had flowers throughout it, and I think this veil turned out great!

As with some of my previous crochet veil patterns, this one will also take a little bit of time to finish, especially depending on how big you want yours. This pattern is also finished by folding your piece together and sewing to make the veil an infinity type veil. 

The Floral Lace Infinity Veil pattern is worked up in 5 rows with a repeat of rows 2-5. You’ll notice these rows are similar, with the only difference being offsetting the flowers so they look more pleasing to the eye. Here’s a close up of the flower repeats:

The veil is worked up with a repeat of 11+7. This means that you will crochet a chain with a multiple of 11 and then add 7 more chains once you’re happy with your chain length. 

The veil pictured above is a size small, so if you’re making this for an adult, make your starting chain longer. I suggest making your starting chain, draping it over your head and bring the ends together so you can get an idea of what the length will be while worn. 

I also found that in row 1, it’s easy to skip chains on accident since the crochet thread is so tiny and when you make your treble crochets, sometimes it’s hard to tell which chain you’ve crocheted into (or maybe this is just a problem for me, lol!). 

If you find that you’ve reached the end of the starting chain and you don’t have the exact number of chains left according to the pattern instructions…I would just fudge it the best you can. That’s just me, but when you’re done sewing the veil at the end, I promise that no one is going to be able to tell that you had to skip more or less chains at the end.

Alright, let’s jump into the crochet Floral Lace Infinity Veil pattern!

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Floral Infinity Veil Pattern
Here's my other girly modeling the veil for me 🙂
Crochet Flower Veil Close Up
You can see how the flowers repeat themselves in this close up of the veil

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed: 

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

  • Ch – chain
  • St – stitch
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Tr – treble crochet

Special Stitches:

This crochet veil pattern uses treble cluster stitches. When you make a cluster stitch, you will make 2 or 3 treble crochets, but hold back the last pull through until all 2 or 3 treble crochets are made, and then pull through all loops to finish. Here are more detailed instructions: 

2 Tr Cluster:

  • Yarn over twice, insert hook into next stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops (you should have two loops on your hook)
  • Yarn over twice, insert hook into same stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through all three loops.

3 Tr Cluster: 

  • Yarn over twice, insert hook into next stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops (you should have two loops on your hook)
  • Yarn over twice, insert hook into same stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops (you should have three loops on your hook)
  • Yarn over twice, insert hook into same stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through all four loops.

Crochet Flower Lace Infinity Veil

Repeat is 11+7 

Loosely Ch 205 or until desired length using the repeat formula above. (Protip: use stitch markers to mark every 50 stitches or so if you find yourself getting distracted or losing count) 

  • Row 1: Tr in 10th ch from hook, *ch 5, tr in same ch as first tr
  • ch 5, 2 tr cluster in front two loops of last tr (hold back the last pull through, you should have 3 loops on your hook)
  • skip 2 chs, 3 tr cluster in next ch (hold back the last pull through, 6 loops on your hook)
  • skip 4 chs, 3 tr cluster in next ch (pull through all 9 loops on your hook)
  • sl st into any loop of the last tr cluster leg to “secure” the center of your flower petal (this prevents a big hole from forming later in the center)
  • Ch 5, 2 tr cluster in the “center” of your flower petal. You should have a 4 petaled flower made up of 3 tr clusters at this point.
  • Skip 2 chs, tr in next ch.* Repeat from *to* until end, you should have 3 chs left, but if you don’t I would just work the last bit the best you can (it’s easy to miss chains with how small the thread is). Ch 5, tr in same ch as previous tr, ch 1, tr in last ch.
  • Row 2: Ch 10, turn, sc in the 3rd ch in previous row’s ch 5 space
  • *ch 7, 3 tr cluster in center of next flower, ch 3, 3 tr cluster again in center of same flower, ch 7, sc in 3rd ch of next ch 5 space from previous row.* Repeat from *to* until last ch 5 space sc into, ch 5, tr in 2nd ch away from last tr of previous row.
  • Row 3 (this row is similar to row 1, but we are offsetting the flowers): Ch 10, turn, 2 tr cluster in 5th ch from hook (hold back last pull through, 3 loops on hook), looking at the sc in the top of row 1’s ch 5, 3 tr cluster in 3rd ch from the right of the next sc (hold back last pull through, 6 loops on hook), *3 tr cluster in the 4th ch from the left of the same sc (pull through all 9 loops)
  • Sl st into any loop of the last tr cluster leg, ch 5, 2 tr cluster in center of flower. Tr in the middle ch of the next ch 3 from row 2, ch 5, tr in same ch as previous tr made
  • Ch 5, 2 tr cluster in front two loops of last tr (hold back last pull through, 3 loops on hook), 3 tr cluster in 4th ch from the right of the next sc (hold back last pull through, 6 loops on hook).* Repeat from *to* until last sc from previous row, 3 tr cluster in 3rd ch from the left of the last sc, pull through all 9 loops, sl st into any thread of last tr cluster leg, ch 5, 2 tr cluster in center of flower, skip 2 chs, tr in 3rd ch of previous rows turning ch.
  • Row 4 (this row is similar to row 2, but offset again): Ch 6, turn, *3 tr cluster in center of next flower, ch 3, 3 tr cluster in center of the same flower, ch 7, sc in 3rd ch of previous row’s ch 5, ch 7.* Repeat from *to* until last flower, 3 tr cluster in center of last flower, ch 3, 3 tr cluster in center of same flower, ch 1, tr in next ch.

Row 5 (similar to row 1): Ch 6, turn, *tr in middle of ch 3 from previous row, ch 5, tr in same ch, ch 5, 2 tr cluster in two front loops of last tr (hold back last pull through, 3 loops on hook), 3 tr cluster in 4th ch from the right of the next sc (hold back last pull through, 6 loops on hook), 3 tr cluster in 4th ch from the left of the same sc, pull through all 9 loops, sl st into any loop of last tr cluster leg, ch 5, 2 tr cluster in center of flower.* Repeat from *to* until last flower completed, tr in middle of next ch 3, ch 5, tr in same ch as previous tr made, ch 1, skip 1 ch, tr in next ch.

Repeat Rows 2-5 until you’ve reached your desired length. End on a repeat of row 2 for the edging.         

Edging: Ch 1, turn, 3 sc in ch 5 space, ch 3 picot, 3 sc in same ch 5 space, sc in next sc, *3 sc in next ch 7 space, ch 3 picot, 3 sc in same ch 7 space,  sc in top of 3 treble cluster, sc in ch 3 space, ch 3 picot, sc in same ch 3 space, sc in top of next 3 treble cluster, 3 sc in next ch 7 space, ch 3 picot, 3 sc in same ch 7 space, sc in next sc,* repeat from *to* until you’ve sc in last sc of row, 3 sc in last ch space, ch 3 picot, 3 sc in same ch space.

DO NOT CUT THREAD

Assembly:  Fold your veil in half, line up the edges as evenly as possible, and sl st into both sides of the veil all the way down. This will “sew” the sides together.

Leave a long enough piece of thread for sewing, cut with scissors, and pull through. Sew the end in with tapestry needle and any other ends.

Thank you for viewing the Floral Lace Infinity Veil pattern! If you find a mistake, or need help, please don’t hesitate to leave a comment or question below. 

Until next time!

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13 Beautifully Gothic Crochet Doilies

Hello everyone, today I have compiled a list of 13 Beautifully Gothic Crochet Doilies for you. Some people say that crocheting with black yarn is difficult, but with a little determination and good lighting, you can create these doilies and add a little gothic flair to your home today.

All of these patterns are available for free at the time of writing this post, links to the patterns are above the descriptions. 

The patterns may suggest different size thread or size hooks, however, I just stuck with my size 10 black crochet thread and my trusty 1.65 mm crochet hook. This just made it easier not having to switch around, but you can use whatever hook size you prefer. 

I love the way all these black crochet doilies turned out. They were honestly a lot of fun to make, and if you’re not too scared to try out using black thread and small crochet hooks, it’s a great way to pass the time. 

Blocking your Crochet Doily

When finished crocheting these doilies, I always block them one way or another. Some crocheters like to starch their doilies to make them stiff, but usually skip the starch. 

When I block my doilies, I fill up a mixing bowl full of water and throw the doily in there. I’ll use my hand to swish it around and make sure all the threads are soaked. 

With a towel next to me, I’ll pull the doily out and let it drip as much water back into the bowl and then place it on the towel. I try not to wring out or squeeze the doily too hard so it doesn’t pull the threads out in undesirable ways. With the towel, I just pat the doily until it’s dry enough to work with.

I use an old pizza box to block my doilies, but there are blocking mats you can buy that are made for blocking crochet or knit projects. Then I’ll use pins to stretch out and pin my doily to the box. Once I’m happy with the way it’s blocked, I’ll set the box down where the kids can’t get to it and let it dry for at least a day.

Okay, let’s dive into this list of 13 Beautifully Gothic Crochet Doilies!

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Materials Needed:

crochet gothic doily
Two Tone Crochet Doily

Two Tone Crochet Doily

Get the pattern here.

The Two Tone Crochet Doily, has you use two different colors of thread (but it looks amazing in just black). This pattern is fairly easy, and I would recommend this pattern for a beginner doily maker. 

gothic crochet patterns
Mable Doily

The Mable Doily

Get the pattern here.

The Mable Doily is designed by Grace Fearon, and is probably one of the most beautiful gothic crochet doilies I’ve personally made. Her pattern is completely free and she has a video tutorial if you need more help.

spider web crochet doily
Spider Web Doily

Spider Web Doily Pattern

Get the pattern here. 

The Spider Web Doily Pattern is a vintage, gothic crochet doily. It was originally published in a magazine dedicated to doily patterns from the American Thread Company. Luckily, we have the pattern available totally for free!. The Spider Web Doily truly looks like a spider web, which will give you an aesthetically pleasing gothic vibe to any room. This is a 24 round pattern composed of mostly chains, single/double/treble crochets, with small double crochet clusters and picots at the very end.

crowns of majesty doily
Crowns of Majesty Doily

Crowns of Majesty Doily

Get the pattern here.

The Crowns of Majesty Doily is designed by Wilma Baker, and is absolutely gorgeous. If you use all black thread, it becomes a lovely gothic doily. This one is a larger doily, and you might need two rolls of black crochet thread instead of one (depending on your yardage and what size of crochet hook you use).

black tesla crochet doily
Tesla Doily

Tesla Doily  

Get the pattern here.

The Tesla Doily is designed by Victoriia Gul, and is a small, delicate looking doily. I would not suggest this doily for a beginner, as there are many different types of stitches in her pattern. You’ll need to be comfortable crocheting front post stitches, puff stitches, cluster stitches, and picots. She suggests using a stitch marker for a few rounds in her pattern, but I did not find it totally necessary. This doily would be great to use underneath a candle, or underneath small plates.

crochet lace black doilies
Moonpetals

Moonpetals

Get the pattern here.

The Moonpetals Doily is designed by Julia Hart. It’s a beautiful crochet doily pattern that truly reminds me of a flower in the moonlight! It’s a 21 round pattern that is easy to follow, but I would suggest this doily for an intermediate crocheter. You’ll need to know how to crochet puff stitches, picots, clusters, and treble crochets (but don’t worry, she has instructions for the special stitches).

gothic crochet pattern
Pretty Crochet Doily Pattern

Pretty Crochet Doily Pattern 

Get the pattern here.

The Pretty Crochet Doily Pattern is a simple, lacey doily that looks great under a vase of flowers or candles. The pattern states that this is for an intermediate crocheter, but I honestly think this is a fine doily pattern for a beginner to try. This is a 15 round pattern, made mostly of chains, double crochets and single crochets.

black lace crochet doilies
Delicate Doily Pattern

Delicate Doily Pattern

Get the pattern here.

The Delicate Doily Pattern is a gorgeous gothic doily that looks almost like a cathedral window. The long chains combined with treble, double, and single crochets creates a circular “window pane.” This is a 16 round pattern, and don’t get discouraged trying to open the link to this pattern…I experienced a slow load time at the time of this article, but it did go through!

beautiful gothic crochet doily
Spider Web Doily #2

Spider Web Doily #2

Get the pattern here.

Yes…another Spider Web Doily, but this one is much different than the doily before. This one is also brought to you by the American Thread Company Magazine (so many good doily patterns by them by the way). I honestly think this doily looks more like wispy, dandelion puffs than a spider web, but I’ll let you decide. The Spider Web Doily is long and big, with a whopping 33 rounds. With such a big doily, you could use it as a large centerpiece for a dinner table.

Aunt Lydia’s Skulduggery Doily
Aunt Lydia’s Skulduggery Doily

Aunt Lydia’s Skulduggery Doily

Get the pattern here.

Aunt Lydia’s Skulduggery Doily is the perfect gothic crochet doily. The pattern has a beautiful way of laying out the little skulls throughout the doily. I used white thread for the Skulduggery Doily so the skulls could really pop out, but feel free to continue with the black crochet thread theme within this post. If you’re using the size 10 black crochet thread from Red Heart, you might need 2 rolls for this pattern. I would suggest trying this pattern if you’re an intermediate to experienced crochet doily maker.

beautiful crochet doily
Starshine Doily

Aunt Lydia’s Starshine Doily

Get the pattern here.

Aunt Lydia pulls through again with another amazing gothic crochet doily. This pattern is worked up into a beautiful star shape. The Starshine Doily is a small to medium sized doily and the suggested skill level is for an intermediate crocheter.

mini trellis
Mini Trellis Doily

Mini Trellis Doily

Get the pattern here.

The Mini Trellis Doily is a simple 11 round crochet doily pattern made available by Adrienne R. Congdon. When crocheted with black thread, it looks almost like a small cathedral window. This is a great pattern for beginners, as it works up quickly and uses simple crochet stitches.

agnes crochet doily in black
Agnes Doily

Agnes Doily

Get the pattern here.

The Agnes Doily, designed by Zoya Matyushenko, is an intermediate to advanced pattern that is seriously stunning. Her pattern is probably one of the hardest ones in this list, but the instructions for the Agnes Doily are pretty clear.

Thank you for checking out this list of 13 Beautifully Gothic Crochet Doilies! I hope you found a crochet pattern that you liked, until next time!

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17 Crochet Stitches that Look Like Flowers

Are you looking for crochet stitches that look like flowers to incorporate into your next project? Here are 17 different stitches/patterns that you can use to get some floral inspiration…for free! 

Click the headings to take you to the tutorials.

1: The Jasmine Stitch

The Jasmine Stitch is a gorgeous stitch that creates the look of flower blossoms using a series of puff stitches. It’s one of the prettiest crochet stitches, but it can be a little difficult to master at first. The Jasmine Stitch is a thick stitch, which means that it uses up a lot of yarn quickly, so make sure you purchase enough yarn to complete your project. This is a great stitch to use for headbands, hats, or scarves.

2: Lace Flower Stitch 

This is a delicate looking, lacy flower stitch that’s perfect for adding a decorative floral pattern to your crochet projects. Try using this stitch for a lacy shawl or scarf, or even a beautiful table runner. A series of three puff stitches separated by chains, creates the flowery look of this stitch.

3: Flower Stitch

This is a cute little crochet flower stitch that resembles a row of tulips or rose buds. The Flower Stitch tutorial has three color changes, so keep that in mind. Try using this stitch for blankets, scarves, or shawls. The “ground” is made up of 2 rows of single crochets, the “stems” are made of V stitches, and the flower is made up of a 3 double crochet puff stitch.

4: Crochet Flower Stitch 

The Crochet Flower Stitch is a dainty, openwork stitch that creates a four petaled flower. This would be a great stitch for any lace work, like a doily or a table runner. The Crochet Flower stitch tutorial includes step-by-step pictures and is made up of 5 different rows to create the floral look.

5: Wattle Stitch

The Wattle Stitch adds a stunning texture to many crochet projects. The series of double crochets, chains, and single crochets, makes it look like tiny little flowers throughout your work. It’s beginner friendly and great for a variety of crochet projects. The Wattle Stitch is great for baby blankets, hats, scarves, or dishcloths. 

Here are some patterns I’ve made using the wattle stitch: 

6: Crochet Garden Flower Stitch 

The Crochet Garden Flower Stitch is similar to the #4 Crochet Flower Stitch, however, this flower has 6 petals instead of 4, and is actually a little easier to work up. This is another lacy stitch that would be great for projects that need a floral border like a dress or a doily. The video tutorial in the link is in Spanish, so keep that in mind if you don’t speak the language, however there is a diagram that is available in the tutorial.

7: Lace Crochet Flowers

The Lace Crochet Flowers pattern creates a 5 petal flower using chains, double crochets, and single crochets. It’s a repeat of 8 rows, but it’s easy to get a hang of after some practice. The Lace Crochet Flower pattern uses the gaps made from the chains to create the petals in the flower. This particular pattern would be great for blankets, scarves, or borders. 

8: Crochet Puff Flower Blanket 

The Crochet Puff Flower stitch is a series of flowers made up of puff stitches. This is another tutorial that is in Spanish, so again, if you don’t speak or understand Spanish, turn on closed captioning and change the language setting to your preferred language. 

These flowers are then connected to one another by crocheting into the top of the petals. This is different from most other types of flower stitches, as each flower is crocheted, connected and then cut with scissors. However, don’t let that discourage you, the way the flowers are connected keeps them secure and almost impossible to unravel. Not only is this great for a beautiful blanket, but a pillow would also be a good project for this stitch.

9: Flower Trellis Stitch

The Flower Trellis Stitch is an elegant crochet flower stitch that looks like flowers or roses peaking out behind a trellis. The bobble stitches and front post stitches create an interesting 3D effect in your work. You will also need 3 different colors of yarn to complete this pattern. The Flower Trellis Stitch would be great to use for blankets, crochet wraps, or any crochet garments. 

10: Lace Flower Scarf

The Lace Flower Scarf stitch is another gorgeous crochet flower stitch that can be used for more than just scarves. It’s a lacy floral pattern that is crocheted in strips and then crocheted together. This is a great stitch to use for scarves, table runners, lacy curtains, summer tops or shawls.

11: Edging with Puff Stitch Flowers 

The Edging with Puff Stitch Flowers is a cute way to add flowers to any crochet project that has a straight border. The flowers are made of puff stitches, somewhat similar to the Jasmine stitch, but chains and double crochets are incorporated in the pattern. This is a great stitch to add to a crochet baby blanket for a girl.

12: Vela Flower Square

The Vela Flower Square is a beautiful granny square made up of tiny, four petaled flowers. The way the flowers pop out of the square gives it an interesting texture. The Velma Flower Square pattern is easy to follow, and you only crochet with single crochets, double crochets, chains and slip stitches. This would be a good stitch to use for blankets, washcloths, or wraps.

13: Bobble Drops Flower Granny Square

The Bobble Drops Flower Granny Square is a pleasing, modern-looking crochet flower design. The pattern is created with 4 simple rows, so it works up quickly. The front post bobbles in the pattern creates this pretty flower square. This crochet stitch would be great for blankets, bags, cushions, or garments. Using thicker yarn or a bigger crochet hook may be helpful to cover more area quickly with this pattern.

14: Crochet Velvet Flowers Throw 

The Crochet Velvet Flowers Throw is another cute way to incorporate flowers for a blanket or throw. Flowers are made throughout the blanket by crocheting bobbles in groups. The bobbles can be pushed out to make the flowers “pop.” This would be a great pattern for blankets, garments, or scarves.

15: Sunburst Granny Square 

The Sunburst Granny Square is a wonderful way to get the look of sunflowers in your projects. There’s 4 color changes and a variety of different ways to arrange the colors to get the sunflower look you want. The sunflower is created by crocheting puff stitches and bobbles for the petals. The Sunburst Granny Square is great for blankets, bags, pillows, and garments.

16: African Flower Crochet Pattern 

The African Flower Crochet Pattern is a floral, hexagonal “granny square.” This is another pattern with 4 different color changes. Figuring out which color changes look the best is part of the fun with these types of flower crochet patterns. The African Flower is created with mostly double crochets and chains. This is a great pattern for crochet blankets, pillows, and even animals made from motifs.

17: Simple Daisy Stitch

The Simple Daisy Stitch is a textured stitch that looks like little crochet daisy flowers or stars. The stitch is created with chains and pulling through loops. The Simple Daisy Stitch is great to incorporate into a variety of projects including scarves, blankets, bags, washcloths, or wraps.

I hope these 17 crochet stitches that look like flowers have inspired you! 

Until next time.

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