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Patterns

Easy Crochet Lace Tape Pattern

by strommercrafts / June 21, 2026

Hey everyone, today I am showing you how to make a very Easy Crochet Lace Tape!

After the first row, it’s just a 2 row repeat until it’s as long as you want it to be!

This crochet tape has straight edges, which may be preferred by some instead of frills or shells.

What do you do with crochet tape?

So you’ve crocheted a length of this pretty lace tape, but now you might be wondering…what the heck do I even do with this?

Here are some ideas that I came up with that you can do with this particular crochet tape:

Use it as a trim for any fabric or clothing item (think like tablecloths, towels, dresses or curtains
Use it as a headband
Crochet a few rows and make it a bookmark
Frame it as part of an art collection of lace tapes
Line the edge of a pretty basket or box

Materials Used:

Abbreviations Used (US terms)

St(s) – stitch(es)
Ch(s) – chain(s)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet

YouTube video not loading? Click for the video tutorial on the Easy Crochet Lace Tape Pattern here.

Crochet Lace Tape Pattern

Ch 18

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch across.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st, ch 4, skip 3 sts, sc in next st. Ch 4, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, sc in next st. Ch 4, skip 3 sts, dc in last 2 sts.

Row 3: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st, ch 2, sc in next ch 4 space. Ch 2, (dc, ch 4, sc) in next ch 4 space. Ch 3, (sc, ch 4, dc) in next ch 4 space. Ch 2, sc in next ch 4 space, ch 2, dc in last 2 sts.

Row 4: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, ch 4, sc in next ch 4 space. Ch 4, dc in ch 3 space. Ch 4 sc in next ch 4 space. Ch 4, dc in last 2 sts.

Repeat Rows 3-4 until desired length

I hope you enjoyed this pattern on a gorgeous looking crochet lace tape! Have a good one 👍.

Best Small Crochet Doily Pattern – The Sacred Window Doily

by strommercrafts / June 17, 2026

Hey everyone, today I have a small crochet doily pattern for you to make!

After messing around for quite some time, I’m finally happy with how the design for this one turned out.

I’m calling this doily, The Sacred Window Doily. Its design is based on those gorgeous cathedral windows. I think they are so timeless and beautiful!

It features a total of 12 rounds and would be perfect to place on an end table or under some small house decor.

I highly suggest blocking this doily so it lays nice and flat. I usually use just plain water, but you can make a starch solution if your want it to be stiff.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 together
Tr3tog – treble crochet 3 together

YouTube video not loading? Click here for the full video tutorial on The Sacred Window Doily.

Small Crochet Doily Pattern – The Sacred Window Doily

Make a magic circle or chain 6 and sl st to beginning ch.

Round 1: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), place 16 sc into magic circle or chain 5, sl st to first st

Round 2: ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc into next sc, ch 1.* Repeat from *to* around. Sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (16 dc and 16 ch 1s)

Round 3: sl st into ch 1 space, ch 1, sc into same ch 1 space, ch 3, *skip dc and sc into next ch 1 space, ch 3.* Repeat from *to* sl st to first sc.

Round 4: sl st into next 2 chs, ch 1, sc into same ch 3 space, ch 4, *skip next sc, sc into next ch 4 space, ch 4* Repeat from *to* sl st to first sc

Round 5: sl st into next 3 chs, ch 4, skip next sc, tr into next ch 4, *ch 7, in the same ch 4 space make the first leg of tr2tog, place second leg into the next ch 4 space.* Repeat from *to* around, ch 7, sl st into first sc.

Round 6: sl st into next 4 chs, ch 1, *sc into same ch 7 space, ch 3, sc again in same ch 7 space. Ch 3, place first leg of dc2tog in same ch 7 space, place second leg in next ch 7 space, ch 3.* Repeat from *to* around, sl st into first sc

Round 7: sl st into next ch 3 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), place first leg of dc2tog in same ch 3 space, place second leg in next ch 3 space, *dc in same ch 3 space, place first leg of dc2tog in same ch 3 space, place second leg in next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to* around, sl st to top of

Round 8: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), *skip 2 sts, dc into next, ch 2.* Repeat from *to* around. Sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch 5.

Round 9: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc into same ch, 2 sc into ch 2 space, *sc into next dc, 2 sc into next ch 2 space.* Repeat from *to* around, sl st to starting sc.

Round 10: sl st into next 2 sc, ch 1, sc into same st, ch 4, *skip 2 sts, sc into next st, ch 4.* Repeat from *to* around, sl st into starting sc.

Round 11: sl st into next 2 sts, ch 4 (counts as middle leg of tr3tog, tr into next ch 4 space, ch 9, *place first leg of tr3tog in same ch 4 space, place the middle leg of tr3tog in the next ch 4 space, place the last leg of tr3tog in the next ch 4 space, ch 9.* Repeat from *to* around, tr in last ch 4 space, sl st to top of starting ch 4

Round 12: sl st into next ch 9 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), place 5 more dc in same ch 9 space, ch 3, place 6 dc into same ch 9 space. Ch 2, skip tr3tog, sc into next ch 9 space ch 3, sc again in same ch 9 space, ch 2, skip next tr3tog, *(6 dc, ch 3, 6 dc) in next ch 9 space. Ch 2, skip tr3tog, sc into next ch 9 space ch 3, sc again in same ch 9 space, ch 2.* Repeat from *to* around, sl st to top of starting ch 3.

Cut thread with scissors, weave in ends with tapestry needle.

Block doily by soaking in water and patting dry with a towel. Place on a piece of cardboard or blocking board and use pins to gently stretch the doily. Wait 24-48 hours or until completely dry.

I hope you enjoy this small crochet doily pattern! Until next time!

Crochet Mesh Stitch with Floral Diamonds

by strommercrafts / June 7, 2026

Hi everyone, today I have a GORGEOUS crochet lace stitch pattern for you to try! The Crochet Mesh Stitch with Floral Diamonds Pattern!

This is a lacy crochet pattern that is embedded with cute diamond shapes made up of 4 “shells.” The shells give the pattern a floral look.

I think this pattern is extremely airy, and light and PERFECT for summer clothing crochet projects, veils, curtains or anything that your heart desires.

I am using size 10 crochet thread and a 1.65mm crochet hook since I love crocheting with lace, HOWEVER, you don’t actually need to use what I’m using.

Feel free to use whatever yarn and hook that corresponds to your yarn that you like.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Tr – treble crochet

I have the chart for this pattern above if your interested. Just click to enlarge the pic.☝

Youtube video not loading? Click here for video tutorial on this stitch pattern

Crochet Mesh Stitch with Floral Diamonds Pattern

Ch a repeat of 20+18 until desired length.

Row 1: sc into 2nd ch from hook, *ch 5, skip 3 chs and sc into next ch.* Repeat from *to.* You should have a sc in the very last ch.

Row 2: ch 6 (counts as a tr and ch 2), sc into next ch 5 space, ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space, *(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next sc, sc into next ch 5 space, (ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space x4 times)* The very last (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) should be in the 3rd sc from the end with 2 ch 5’s left. Ch 5, sc in next ch 5 space, ch 2, tr into very last sc.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space, *(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) into next sc, sc into ch 3 space, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) into next sc, (ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space x3 times)* Repeat from *to* until the last (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc), sc into next ch 5 space, ch 5, sc into 4th ch of starting ch 6 from Row 2.

Row 4: ch 6 (counts as tr and ch 2), sc into next ch 5 space, ch 5, sc into next ch 3 space, *(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) into next sc, sc in next ch 3 space, (ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space x4 times)* Repeat from *to* until last (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc), sc into next ch 3 space, ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space, ch 2, tr into last sc

Row 5: ch 1, sc into same st, *(ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space x4 times), (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next sc, sc into next ch 5 space.* Repeat from *to* until sc in last ch 5 space, ch 5 and sc into4th ch of starting ch 6.

Row 6: ch 6 (counts as tr and ch 2), sc into next ch 5 space, *(ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space x3 times), (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next sc, sc into next ch 3 space, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next sc.* Repeat from *to* until sc in last ch 5 space, ch 2, tr in last sc.

Row 7: ch 1, sc in same st, *(ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space x4 times), (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next sc), sc into next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to* until last (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc), sc into ch 3 space, (ch 5, sc into next ch 5 space x3 times), ch 5, sc into 4th ch of starting ch 6.

Repeat Rows 2-7 until desired height.

Cut with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Thank you for checking out this Crochet Mesh Floral Diamond Pattern!

Until next time.

Very Elegant Crochet Lace Border (Pattern Tutorial)

by strommercrafts / May 31, 2026

Hey everyone, today I have a Very Elegant Crochet Lace Border Pattern for you!

This lacy crochet border has a series of beautiful crochet stitches that give it a subtle, but elegant look.

I am also providing a diagram for if you need to use this border for a square or rectangular object, sometimes figuring out the corners can be a pain on your own!

To do this border, you will need to be able to 2 intermediate stitches, X stitches and 2 double crochets together.

But I will walk you through those, it will be easy peasy!

I have used a very similar lace border for my Filet Crochet Heart Doily and my Merry Christmas Doily if you’d like to check those out too!

Materials Used:

Abbreviations Used:

Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
X stitch – a double crochet placed 3 stitches ahead of current stitch, ch 1, and another double crochet placed in the 2nd stitch behind the first double crochet.

Youtube video not loading? Click for the video tutorial of this pattern here!

Very Elegant Crochet Lace Border Pattern

(This is for the straight edge only, scroll down for written instructions on the corners)

Ch a repeat of 3 until your happy with the length.

Row 1: sc into 2nd ch from hook, and sc into each ch across.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, *skip 2 sts, dc into next st, ch 1, and going behind the dc just made, skip a st and dc into the next st.* This should make your dcs cross each other like an X. *Repeat from *to* across. You will have 1 st left at the end! Dc into last st

Row 3: ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same st, sc into next st, *ch 1, skip ch 1 space from row 2, sc into next 2 sts.* Repeat from *to* the last sc will be placed in the top ch of starting ch 3.

Row 4: ch 3 (counts as a dc), in next ch 1 space (2dc, ch 2, dc2tog with the first leg in the same ch 1 space and the second leg in the next ch 1 space), *dc into same ch 1 space as the second leg of dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog with the first leg in the same ch 1 space and the second leg in the next ch 1 space.* Repeat from *to* across, in the last ch 1 space, you should have the second leg of a dc2tog…place 1 more dc in same ch 1 space, skip a st and dc into very last st.

Row 5: ch 1 (does not count as a st), *ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) into next ch 2 space.* Repeat from *to* finish with a ch 3, skip 2 sts and sc into top of starting ch 3.

Cut thread with scissors, weave in any ends.

(Corners)

This is purely for the corners, the straight edges should be the exact same as the pattern above, except without the 1 dc on the end of either side.

You need to have a repeat of 3 for this border pattern to fit correctly.

Round 1: simply place sc in a series of 3, in the corner spaces place a ch 2 (so the 3rd sc in your repeat will be the first sc in the corner, ch 2, and then the 1st sc of your next series of 3 repeats will be the second sc in the same corner st)

Please look at the diagram for clarification. The 2 sc separated by the ch 2 share the same ch.

Round 2: in your corner ch 2 space, place (dc, ch 2, dc)

Round 3: in the corner, place a sc into first dc, ch 3 and sc into next dc

Round 4: in the ch 1 space before the ch 3 corner space, place a dc if you have not already, ch 2, 2dctog with first leg in same ch 1 space, and the second leg in the ch 3 corner space. Ch 3, dc into same ch 3 corner space, turning down the next side ch 2, 2dctog with the first leg in the same ch 3 corner space and the second leg in the next ch 1 space, and continue down straight edge

Round 5: (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 3 corner space

Join with a sl st to first sc

Cut thread with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Thank you for checking out my Very Elegant Crochet Lace Border!

Lacy Diamond Crochet Stitch [Pattern Tutorial]

by strommercrafts / May 17, 2026

Hi everyone! Today I have the Lacy Diamond Crochet Stitch pattern to share with you!

This is a VERY open and airy crochet stitch with big holes. And once you’ve completed a few rows, you can see the diamond shapes form!

But first, what the heck do you even do with a crochet stitch like this?

Here are a few ideas: a lace crochet curtain, a delicate table runner, a cover up for the pool, or maybe you need an open stitch to break up a solid crochet blanket.

Whatever the reason, this is going to be your next FAVORITE crochet stitch.

This is also one of those crochet patterns where the middle part is 1 of 2 series of stitches, but you’ll need to pay attention to the edges. You’ll see what I mean.

Today I’m using size 10 crochet thread in Gold Dust from Artiste Cotton Crochet Thread and a 1.65mm crochet hook, but you can use whatever size yarn and a matching hook.

Materials Needed:

Crochet thread size 10
1.65mm crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations Used (US terms):

St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dtr – double treble crochet (yarn over 3 times)

CLICK HERE FOR THE VIDEO TUTORIAL OF THE LACY DIAMOND STITCH.

Lacy Crochet Diamond Stitch Pattern

Ch a repeat of 12 + 4.

That just means to ch 12 over and over until you’re happy with the length and then add 4 more to the end of that.

FYI the beginning ch 1s do not count as a stitch.

Row 1: sc into the 2nd ch from your hook and sc into each and every ch across

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc into the next 3 sc, *ch 11, skip 9 sc, and sc into the next 3 sc.* Repeat from *to*

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc into next 2 sc, *ch 6, skip 5 chs and sc into the 6th ch from the ch 11 in row 2, ch 6, skip the next sc and sc into the middle sc of the 3 sc from row 2.* Repeat from *to* until you’ve placed the last sc in the 6th ch in the ch 11.

To finish, ch 6 and, skip the next sc, sc into next 2 sc.

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc into first sc, ch 11, *sc into the 6th ch (the ch before the sc), sc into the sc, sc into the next ch, ch 11, skip the ch 6, skip the sc, and skip the next ch 6.* Repeat from *to* skip a sc and dtr into the last sc.

Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc into dtr, *ch 6, skip the next sc, sc into next sc (middle sc of the 3), ch 6, sc into 6th ch of the ch 11.* Repeat from *to*

Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc into first sc, sc into first ch, *ch 11, sc into the 6th ch, sc into the next sc, sc into the next ch.* Repeat from *to* until last ch 11, place sc into 6th ch away, sc into last sc

Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc into first sc, *ch 6, sc into 6th ch in ch 11, ch 6, skip next sc, sc into next sc (the middle sc).*

Repeat Rows 4-7 until desired height

Row 8: ch 11, turn, skip ch 6, sc into next sc, *ch 11, skip ch 6, skip sc, skip the next ch 6, sc into the next sc* Repeat from *to* end the row with a ch 6 and dtr into the last sc.

Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc into first sc, 6 sc in ch 6 space, sc in next sc, *11 sc in ch 11 space, sc into next sc.* Repeat from *to.* 6 sc in last ch 11 space, place last sc in 6th ch.

Cut thread with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

And that’s it! What did you think about the Lacy Diamond Crochet Stitch?

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, until next time!

Wonderfully Festive Crochet Christmas Doily

by strommercrafts / November 28, 2025

Hello, everyone, today I have a new crochet doily pattern for you, the Crochet Christmas Doily!

With the Holidays coming up, I’ve been trying to come up with a few crochet Christmas gift ideas to give to family members and friends.

I enjoy crocheting with thread the most, so trying to think of gift ideas using that was kinda hard.

However, since I’ve been on a filet crochet doily kick, I thought how fun it would be to make a doily that simply says; Merry Christmas.

With doilies like this, the main function of it is to decorate tables, but I’ve seen people take it an extra step and frame this on a dark background, and then hang it on a wall.

Doilies don’t go with every interior decorating styles, but my own mom has a log cabin style home and they have a few of my doilies displayed that look absolutely fire 🔥.

How Do I Make This Doily Lay Flat? It’s All Crinkled!

With most crochet thread projects, you need to block them to force them to lay nice and flat. This is an essential step, especially if you plan on your Merry Christmas Doily being displayed where others will see it.

To block a crochet doily, I simply soak it in water and pin it on a blocking board as symmetrically as possible to dry.

If you want it flat and crispy, you’ll need to use a starch solution to spray or soak it in.

Materials Needed:

1.65mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White Size 10
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Blocking Board (or cardboard box)
Pins

Crochet Christmas Doily Pattern:

Please consult the chart below, but you will start by chaining 170, turning and making a dc into the 6th chain away from the hook.

Once finished, cut thread with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle to hide and secure them.

Blocking the Doily:

Grab your blocking board or a long enough piece of cardboard, pins, a bowl of water, and a towel.

Soak the doily in water (I use cool water but I don’t think it matters too much). Fully submerge it for 2-3 minutes, you may have to hold it down with her hand so it doesn’t float to the surface.

Pull it out and let it drip excess water back into your bowl. Place it on your towel and gently pat it dry. Do not wring the doily out.

Place the doily on your blocking board and pin it as evenly as possible on all sides.

This is where having a blocking board is king. The blocking board has grids so you can measure and pin on all sides evenly.

That’s all for this Crochet Merry Christmas Doily pattern. I hope the chart was helpful to you and that your doily brings you a little Christmas cheer this year.

Until next time.

Crochet Legend of Zelda Crest of the Sheikah Doily

by strommercrafts / November 14, 2025

Hello everyone, today I have another new crochet doily pattern for you, the Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily Crest of the Sheikah Doily.

I’ve been having too much fun making these doilies based off of my favorite video games, like this Crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Doily, my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, and my Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily.

Since I love the Legend of Zelda series, I wanted to do another tribute to one of the coolest parts of the Zelda lore.

This crochet doily features the iconic Sheikah eye that is seen throughout the history of the Legend of Zelda since Ocarina of Time. The symbol that represents the shadowy Sheikah people, is of an open eye with 3 eye lashes and a single teardrop dropping from the center of the pupil.

You’d see this symbol on stones scattered throughout Hyrule, on artifacts in certain temples, and on the Sheikah people’s clothing.

I’ve chosen a red crochet thread for the eye, but you can use any color thread you’d like, just make sure it matches the size of the background color.

I also highly suggest, like with many crochet thread projects, to block your doily so that it lays flat. I simply soak my doily in water, pat it dry with a towel and then pin it to a blocking board.

Blocking makes your doily look so much better and straighter. It’s an extra step, but it’s worth it and sometimes necessary for a clean looking final product.

How to Color Change in this Pattern

Color changing in this doily pattern can be a little tricky, but with mindfulness and practice, you can do it!

You need to put your new color thread on the hook, the stitch before the change.

Do not finish your stitch completely, place your new color thread, and THEN finish the stitch.

Here’s an example:

There may be times in the pattern that you need to change colors when you’re chaining. This one is tricky because you already have a chain/loop on the hook at all times.

Here’s an example where you need to change colors while chaining:

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Materials Needed:

1.65mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White Size 10
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in Red Size 10
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Crochet Legend of Zelda – Crest of the Sheikah Doily Pattern:

Please consult the diagram below. You can click on the image to make it bigger.

To start you will chain 77.

Start with the black symbols first and then work the border around.

I hope you enjoyed this Crochet Legend of Zelda Crest of the Sheikah Doily. Now I just need to figure out which sort of doily I should do next! Another Zelda themed one? Or perhaps something entirely different?

Until next time!

Patterns

Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily

by strommercrafts / October 29, 2025

Hello everyone, today I have a new crochet doily pattern for you! It’s the Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily!

If you love playing Stardew Valley, then you’ll love making this doily with the iconic Stardrop displayed in the middle. Whenever you find one of these Stardrops in game, your character will eat it and instantly gain more energy to perform daily tasks. They’re pretty handy!

I’m including this doily in my series of video game inspired crochet patterns, this includes other doilies like, my Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily, Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, and Crochet Pokeball Doily.

Materials Needed:

For Blocking:

Blocking Board (or cardboard box)
Pins
Bowl of water
Towel

Abbreviations Used:

Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Dc2tog – double crochet two together

How do I color change in this pattern?

Color changing in this doily can be a little tricky, but with mindfulness and practice, you can do it!

You need to put your new color thread on the hook, the stitch before the change.

Do not finish your stitch completely, place your new color thread, and THEN finish the stitch.

Here’s an example:

There may be times in the pattern that you need to change colors when you’re chaining. This one is tricky because you already have a chain/loop on the hook at all times.

Here are a few examples where you need to change colors while chaining:

I suggest not carrying your yarn with you as you go. With the crochet thread, you can see the color you’re trying to hide by carrying it (especially the white thread). It just makes it unpleasant to the eye.

So you have two options to deal with your multiple threads:

1) cut and weave each one in with your tapestry needle
2) keep one side ugly and never show it to the world…

It’s up to you what you want to do. There’s no judgment here!

There will be some criss-crossing of threads as you switch colors. It’s just the nature of crochet color changing. I would just be careful and untwist as you go so you don’t get a huge mess.

Alright, that’s enough of the finer details, let’s go ahead and get started on this doily!

Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily Pattern

Ch 77

Please consult the diagram for the body of the doily below.

You will start with the black stitches first, and work your way up.

Then you will work the border in the blue and red by going around the square.

Border:

Double check and make sure that you are facing the correct way before beginning. If not, just turn your work and follow along.

Round 1: ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1), skip a ch, and dc into the next ch (should be the middle ch). *Ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next ch* Repeat from *to* all the way across until the first corner.

Dc into the 3rd ch of ch 6 from previous row, ch 1, dc into same ch, ch 1, dc again into same ch.

Turn down the side, ch 1, skip ch 3 and dc into the top of the last dc in row 35. Ch 1. Skip the length of the dc you just crocheted into and dc into the top of the next starting ch 3.

Continue in this fashion, placing (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) into the corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd ch in starting ch 4.

38 squares on each side

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same joining space. Sc into each dc and ch 1 space across.

In the middle dc of the corners, make (sc, ch 2, sc), turn and continue making sc into each dc and ch 1 space.

Sl st to first st.

Round 3: Sl st into next st, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st as joining, *ch 1, skip a st, sc into next st* Repeat from *to* across. Make sure to ch 1 right before the corner spaces.

In the next corner ch 2 corner space, (sc, ch 2, sc).

Repeat from *to* down the next side.

Sl st to first st

Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 space, ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2). Dc2tog by making the first leg in the same ch 1 space as starting ch, skip next ch 1 space and place the second leg into the next ch 1 space. *Dc in same ch 1 space, ch 2, dctog with the first leg in the same ch space, skip a ch 1 space and place the second leg into the next ch 1 space.*

Repeat from *to.* until the next corner (should have 18 ch 2 spaces before the first corner).

Ch 2, dc2tog with first leg in the ch 1 space right before the ch 2 space from the previous round, place the second leg into the ch 2 corner space. Ch 3, dc into same ch 2 corner space.

Ch 2, dc2tog with first leg in ch 2 corner space, and the second leg in the next ch 1 space (it should be the one right after the ch 2 corner space)

Continue this way around.

You should have 21 ch 2 spaces on each side with ch 3s in the corners.

Sl st to 3rd ch in starting ch 5.

Round 5: Sl st into the next ch 2 space, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same ch 2 space. Ch 3, sc into same ch 2 space again, *ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) into next ch 2 space.*

Repeat from *to.*

When you get to the ch 2 space right before the ch 3 corner spaces, complete your (sc, ch 3, sc) in the ch 2 space. Ch 3 and (sc, ch 3, sc) into the ch 3 corner space.

Ch 3 and (sc, ch 3, sc) into next ch 2 space.

Continue in this fashion all the way around.

Sl st to first sc.

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in any loose ends

Blocking:

To block this doily, grab a large bowl and fill it with water. Soak the doily in the water for a few minutes (you may need to hold it down with your hand so it doesn’t float to the surface).

Once soaked, grab a towel. Pull the doily out of the bowl and place on the towel (do not wring or squeeze the doily with your hands).

Pat the doily with towel to soak up excess water.

Place the doily onto a blocking board or a piece of cardboard large enough. Pin the sides evenly with pins.

Allow the doily to air dry for 24-48 hours.

Thank you so much for trying out the Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily Pattern. I hope the diagram was helpful to you.

Until next time.

Absolutely Lovely Crochet Lace Edging

by strommercrafts / October 1, 2025

Hello everyone, today I have an Absolutely Lovely Crochet Lace Edging pattern to share with you.

This pattern is very similar to the border I used for my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, but I’ve tweaked it just a little to make it slightly better I think.

I was inspired to create my very own crochet lace edging after hours of searching for the perfect pattern for my own project. I think this pattern works up amazingly, it’s got a nice scalloped edge with pretty, little picots.

You can use this crochet lace pattern as a way to decorate or adorn things like dresses, skirts, tablecloths, blankets, or scarves. I’ve even seen people use these to line woven baskets or jars. Really anything you can think of that you want to make look pretty!

Materials Used:

Abbreviations Used:

St – stitch
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet

Special Stitches:

X Stitch – skip 2 sts, dc into next, ch 1, going backwards/behind the dc just made, skip a st and dc into the next. This makes the two double crochet cross each other.
3dc Cluster – make a double crochet in the designated st, but don’t finish it, make 2 more double crochet without finishing them. You should have 4 loops on your hook at this point, pull through all 4 loops.
3ch Picot – ch 3, slip stitch into the top of the previously made st (in this pattern it will be the top of the 3dc cluster)

VIDEO NOT LOADING? CLICK FOR THE VIDEO TUTORIAL OF THIS CROCHET LACE EDGING PATTERN HERE.

Crochet Lace Edging Pattern

Ch a repeat of 12+3

Row 1: Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into each ch across.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, we will be making an X st now. *Skip next 2 sts, dc into the next st. Ch 1, going behind the ch 1 and dc just made, skip a st and dc into the next st. Now we go back forward.* Repeat from *to* until the end, you should have 1 st left, make a dc in the last st.

Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2), turn, skip dc, sc into ch 1 space in the X st, *ch 3, skip next 2 dcs, sc into ch 1 space in the X st.* Repeat from *to.* Ch 2, dc into top of ch 3 from Row 2.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, sc into same st, *ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space, 7 dc into next ch 3 space (this is a shell), sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space* Repeat from *to.* After sc into last ch 3 space, ch 3 and sc into top of ch 3 from Row 3. You should have 2 ch 3 spaces before and after each 7 dc shell, except for the beginning and end of the row, which will have 1 ch 3 space.

Row 5: Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2), turn, sc into next ch 3 space, *in the next 7 dc shell, dc into each dc with a ch 1 between each dc (7 dc with 6 ch 1s) . Sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to* After you’ve sc into the last ch 3 space, ch 2, dc into last sc from Row 4.

Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, sc into same st. *In the ch 1 space of the next shell, 3 dc cluster. (Ch 3 picot, ch 2, 3 dc cluster in next ch 1 space of shell x 5 more times, so 6 3dc clusters with picots on top total in the shell), sc into next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to.* Place last sc into the 3rd ch of Row 5s starting ch 5.

Cut thread with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking:

At this point I would try to find time to block your edging. It will make your piece look very clean and crisp.

Grab a blocking board (or cardboard), pins, a bowl of water, and a towel.

Soak your crochet lace edging in the bowl of water for a minute or two. Gently pat dry on the towel.

Place on your blocking board and pin in a straight line. Place somewhere safe to dry, take the pins out after 1-2 days or until totally dry.

That’s all for this crochet lace edging! What do you think? I hope yours turns out to be lovely!

Until next time!

Breathtakingly Nostalgic Crochet Pokeball Doily

by strommercrafts / September 14, 2025

Hello everyone! Today I have made a Breathtakingly Nostalgic Crochet Pokeball Doily to share with you.

I’ve been inspired to make doilies based off of some of my favorite video games growing up. This includes my Crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Doily and my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily!

I still remember the very first Pokemon game I played was Pokemon Ruby. I picked Mudkip as my starter and named him Bubbles. I loved that little game…but surprisingly with how many hours I put in, I never caught a dang shiny Pokemon :(.

Anyways…

This is one of my more complex designs, so I drew up a diagram to help you visualize the pattern better.

I am using a new filet crochet technique in this pattern, to make it appear a little more delicate and lacy. I think it also helps the Pokeball “pop” out more so you can see it better.

We will be coloring changing threads in this Crochet Pokeball Doily pattern. I highly suggest that you feel comfortable doing color changes with bigger yarn sizes before trying it with thread. But I understand if you want to just go for it and see what happens!

Color changing in crochet is kind of weird and I’ll explain a little better below…I hope. Essentially, you have to think ahead and attach your new color before the stitch that needs the new color.

It’s kind of like tapestry crochet, but we’re using double crochets instead of single crochets.

I also recommend blocking this doily and basically anything that you crochet with thread. It looks so much cleaner and less scrunched up. I use water to block mine, but I know other people like to use a starch solution to make it stiff.

Okay enough rambling, let’s start making your Crochet Pokeball Doily!

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Used:

Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White Size 10
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in Black Size 10 (the image displays the wrong size of thread, but this is the correct listing for size 10 thread…it’s confusing I know)
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread Size in Red 10
1.65mm Crochet Hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Optional – blocking board (or cardboard), pins, bowl of water and a towel

Abbreviations

St – stitch
Sl st – slip st
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
S2W – switch to white
S2B – switch to black
S2R – switch to red

About Color Changes in This Pattern

Color changes can be a little weird in crochet. You must look ahead to color change and attach your new color before you finish the current you’re on.
Sometimes you will finish a dc and sometimes you will not! It depends on whether the next st is a ch or another dc.
I don’t recommend “carrying” your last color thread with you. Since we are using dc and contrasting colors, they stick out through the fabric.
I recommend cutting your thread when starting a new color OR dropping the yarn and picking it up when you need it again and giving yourself enough line (but one side of your doily will be ugly)
See pics below for info on when to attach the new colored thread.

I’ve also made a crochet chart to go with this pattern below.

I’m still learning how to make these charts, but I think you can see the pattern much better if you don’t like written instructions.

I made the border in a red and blue color in this chart so you can see each round more clearly.

Crochet Pokeball Doily Pattern:

Ch 46

Row 1: sc into 8th ch away from hook (counts as dc and ch 2), ch 2, skip a ch, dc into next ch, *ch 2, skip a ch, sc into next ch, ch 2, skip a ch, dc into next ch.* Repeat from *to* (10 sc, 11 dc, 20 ch 2s)

Row 2: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip ch 2, skip sc, and skip next ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 3, skip ch 2, skip dc, and skip next ch 2, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* (11 dc, 10 ch 3s)

Row 3: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn sc into middle ch of previous row’s ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 2, sc into middle ch of previous row’s ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc* Repeat from *to* twice more. Ch 3, skip ch 3 space, dc into next dc, ch 3, skip ch 3 space, dc into next dc (these two open squares should be aligned right in the middle of the fabric). Repeat from *to* 4 more times. (11 dc, 8 sc, 16 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 4: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip ch 2, skip sc, skip ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 3, skip ch 2, skip sc, skip ch 2, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* once more. Ch 2, S2B, dc into next dc (if done correctly, the white thread will have the appearance of a ch 3 not a ch 2). 3 dc into ch 3 space, dc in dc, 3 dc into ch 3 space, dc into next dc (don’t finish the final pull through, S2W). Repeat from *to* 4 more times (17 dc, 8 ch 3s)

Row 5: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc into middle ch of ch 3 space, *ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, dc into middle ch of ch 3 space, ch 2, dc into next dc,* ch 2, S2B dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc (don’t finish last pull through and S2W), dc in next 7 dc S2B, dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc S2W ch 3, dc in next dc. Repeat from *to* twice more. (23 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 6: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, (finish this last dc all the way and S2B, skip a ch, dc in 2nd and 3rd ch of ch 3 space, dc into next dc S2W, dc into next 15 dc, S2B, dc into next dc, dc into next ch and middle ch of ch 3 space (don’t finish dc all the way and S2W, ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc (27 dc, 4 ch 3s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 7: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc into middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, sc into middle ch, ch 1, S2B, dc into next dc, dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc S2W dc into next 19 dc, S2B dc in next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc into next dc S2W, ch 2, sc into middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc (29 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s)

Row 8: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip and dc into next dc, ch 2 S2B, skip and dc into next 3 dc, S2W, dc in next 19 dc, S2B dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc (29 dc, 4 ch 3s)

Row 9: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch, ch 2, dc in next dc S2B, dc in middle and last ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, S2W, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next 5 dc, S2W, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next dc, dc in first ch of ch 3, dc in middle ch of ch 3, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 10: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc into next dc S2B, dc in next 12 dc, S2W, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 12 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc (33 dc, 2 ch 3s, w ch 1s)

Row 11: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 6 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (28 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 12: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), dc in next dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 9 dc, S2B dc in next 5 dc, S2R, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (28 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch 1s)

Row 13: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2 S2B, skip 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 19 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 2 dc, skip ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 14: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 1 S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 19 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 15: ch 5, (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc, ch 1 S2B, skip a dc, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 15 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W ch 1, skip a dc, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (27 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 16: ch 6, (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, S2B, skip 2 dc, dc in next 5 dc, S2R, dc in next 7 dc, S2B, dc in next 5 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 2 dc, skip ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (23 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 17: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, S2B, skip 3 dc, dc in next 9 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (17 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 18: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (11 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 6 ch 3s)

Row 19: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc (11 dc, 6 sc, 12 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 20 ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, *ch 3, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* (11 dc, 10 ch 3s)

Border

Instead of going back and forth like we have with the main body of the crochet Pokeball doily, now we will crochet around our square.

Round 1: ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1) dc into the same st as the starting ch 4, ch 1, dc into same st again. This is our first corner made.

Ch 1, dc into middle ch of ch 3, *ch 1, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* until we reach the next corner. Your last dc should be placed in the 3rd ch of the previous row’s starting ch 6. From here, ch 1, dc into same ch, ch 1, dc into same ch again.

As you can see, our corners will be a combination of (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same corner st.

Turning down the first side of our doily, ch 1, skip the rest of the ch 3 you just made your corner in and dc into the top of row 19’s dc. Ch 1, skip the length of the rest of that dc and dc into the 3rd ch of row 18. Repeat dc and ch 1s down the side, see the chart as a reference. Sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

(22 “squares” on each side)

Round 2:

**Note: the ch 1 spaces before and after the middle corner dc from round 1 will have 2 sc in them, not 1. See diagram for details.

ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, 2 sc in next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) into the next dc (this should be the middle dc of round 1s corner). If you need to, place st marker in the corner ch 1 space for later. 2 sc in next ch 1 space, sc into each dc and ch 1 space across until you get to the first dc of the next corner from round 1. Place a sc in this dc, 2 dc into next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) into next dc, 2 sc into next ch 1 space.

Turn down the next side and sc into each dc and ch 1 space, make corners. Sl st to first sc.

(47 sc on each side, 4 ch 1 corner spaces)

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as a dc), (dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same st as ch 3. Ch 1, skip 3 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch 1 corner space. *Ch 1, skip 3 sc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc, ch 1, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc* Repeat from *to* until next corner.

You should have 3 sc left before the next ch 1 corner space after the last (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) shell. Ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch 1 corner space. Repeat from *to* until next corner again. Corner spaces will be (sc, ch 1, sc). Sl st to top if starting ch 3

(6 shells on each side)

Round 4: sl st into next dc, sl st into ch 1 space. Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 2 dc and sc into next ch 1 space, ch , skip 2 dc, skip next ch 1 space, skip next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch 1 corner space.

Ch 2, sc into first ch 1 space of next shell, ch 3, skip 2 dc, sc into next ch 1 space of shell, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the sc between the shells, *ch 1, sc into first ch 1 space of next shell, ch 3, skip 2 dc, sc into next ch 1 space of shell, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in sc between shells* Repeat from *to* until next corner, finish last shell with sc into first ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 2 dc, and sc in next ch 1 space of shell.

Ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) into ch 1 corner space. Repeat on sides and corners in this fashion. Sl st to starting sc

Round 5: sl st into next 2 chs, ch 1 (does not count as a st) sc into ch 3 space. Ch 1, ([dc, ch 1 x7 times], dc) in ch 3 corner space. (This corner shell should have 8 dc separated by ch 1s)

*Ch 1, sc into next ch 3 space on top of next shell, ch 1, skip next sc, skip ch 1 space, skip dc, ([dc, ch 1 x5 times], dc) into ch 1 space between the 2 dc.* Repeat from *to* until next corner, ch 1, sc into ch 3 space in last shell, ch 1, ([dc, ch 1 x7 times], dc) in next ch 3 corner space. Repeat from *to* on sides.

Sl st to starting sc. (5 smaller shells on sides, 1 larger shell in each corner).

Cut thread with scissors and pull through.

Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking:

Soak doily in cool water for a minute, gently pat dry on a towel. Using a blocking board (or piece of cardboard large enough), pin edges straight with pins. Allow to dry for about 24-48 hours.

That’s it for this Crochet Pokeball Doily Pattern! If you made it this far, thank you, I hope you enjoyed this pattern.

Until next time.

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