Category: Patterns

Absolutely Lovely Crochet Lace Edging
Patterns

Absolutely Lovely Crochet Lace Edging

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Hello everyone, today I have an Absolutely Lovely Crochet Lace Edging pattern to share with you.

This pattern is very similar to the border I used for my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, but I’ve tweaked it just a little to make it slightly better I think. 

I was inspired to create my very own crochet lace edging after hours of searching for the perfect pattern for my own project. I think this pattern works up amazingly, it’s got a nice scalloped edge with pretty, little picots. 

You can use this crochet lace pattern as a way to decorate or adorn things like dresses, skirts, tablecloths, blankets, or scarves. I’ve even seen people use these to line woven baskets or jars. Really anything you can think of that you want to make look pretty!

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Feel free to use any crochet yarn and hook you’d like, however if you want to make crochet lace, I suggest using crochet thread and a corresponding hook. I’m using size 10 crochet thread and a 1.65 mm crochet hook to make this beautiful pattern.

I’ve made a diagram for this pattern as well. I think the diagrams are super helpful to use as a reference. I’m still trying to get used to making them and they aren’t always perfect but I think you’ll get the idea!

I also highly suggest blocking this pattern and really anything that you crochet as lace. You can get the edging wet and then stretch and pin it onto a blocking board or a piece of cardboard.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Here are some different colors of thread I used for my edging. I like to use the classic white thread, but black can make any piece look instantly more beautiful and gothic-like. The other colors are a lot of fun too.

Crochet Lace Edging
Crochet Lace Border
Gothic Crochet Lace Edging
Crochet Lace Borders Patterns
Crochet Lace Trim

Alright let’s go ahead and check out the pattern below!

Materials Used:

Abbreviations Used:

  • St – stitch
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Stitches:

  • X Stitch – skip 2 sts, dc into next, ch 1, going backwards/behind the dc just made, skip a st and dc into the next. This makes the two double crochet cross each other.
  • 3dc Cluster – make a double crochet in the designated st, but don’t finish it, make 2 more double crochet without finishing them. You should have 4 loops on your hook at this point, pull through all 4 loops.
  • 3ch Picot – ch 3, slip stitch into the top of the previously made st (in this pattern it will be the top of the 3dc cluster)
Crochet Lace Edging Diagram
VIDEO NOT LOADING? CLICK FOR THE VIDEO TUTORIAL OF THIS CROCHET LACE EDGING PATTERN HERE.

Crochet Lace Edging Pattern

Ch a repeat of 12+3

Row 1: Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into each ch across.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, we will be making an X st now. *Skip next 2 sts, dc into the next st. Ch 1, going behind the ch 1 and dc just made, skip a st and dc into the next st. Now we go back forward.* Repeat from *to* until the end, you should have 1 st left, make a dc in the last st.

Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2), turn, skip dc, sc into ch 1 space in the X st, *ch 3, skip next 2 dcs, sc into ch 1 space in the X st.* Repeat from *to.* Ch 2, dc into top of ch 3 from Row 2.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, sc into same st, *ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space, 7 dc into next ch 3 space (this is a shell), sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space* Repeat from *to.* After sc into last ch 3 space, ch 3 and sc into top of ch 3 from Row 3. You should have 2 ch 3 spaces before and after each 7 dc shell, except for the beginning and end of the row, which will have 1 ch 3 space.

Row 5: Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2), turn, sc into next ch 3 space, *in the next 7 dc shell, dc into each dc with a ch 1 between each dc (7 dc with 6 ch 1s) . Sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to* After you’ve sc into the last ch 3 space, ch 2, dc into last sc from Row 4.

Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, sc into same st. *In the ch 1 space of the next shell, 3 dc cluster. (Ch 3 picot, ch 2, 3 dc cluster in next ch 1 space of shell x 5 more times, so 6 3dc clusters with picots on top total in the shell), sc into next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to.* Place last sc into the 3rd ch of Row 5s starting ch 5.

Cut thread with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking:

At this point I would try to find time to block your edging. It will make your piece look very clean and crisp.

Grab a blocking board (or cardboard), pins, a bowl of water, and a towel.

Soak your crochet lace edging in the bowl of water for a minute or two. Gently pat dry on the towel.

Place on your blocking board and pin in a straight line. Place somewhere safe to dry, take the pins out after 1-2 days or until totally dry.

That’s all for this crochet lace edging! What do you think? I hope yours turns out to be lovely! 

Until next time!

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Breathtakingly Nostalgic Crochet Pokeball Doily
Patterns

Breathtakingly Nostalgic Crochet Pokeball Doily

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Hello everyone! Today I have made a Breathtakingly Nostalgic Crochet Pokeball Doily to share with you. 

I’ve been inspired to make doilies based off of some of my favorite video games growing up. This includes my Crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Doily and my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily! 

I still remember the very first Pokemon game I played was Pokemon Ruby. I picked Mudkip as my starter and named him Bubbles. I loved that little game…but surprisingly with how many hours I put in, I never caught a dang shiny Pokemon :(.

Anyways…

This is one of my more complex designs, so I drew up a diagram to help you visualize the pattern better.

I am using a new filet crochet technique in this pattern, to make it appear a little more delicate and lacy. I think it also helps the Pokeball “pop” out more so you can see it better.

We will be coloring changing threads in this Crochet Pokeball Doily pattern. I highly suggest that you feel comfortable doing color changes with bigger yarn sizes before trying it with thread. But I understand if you want to just go for it and see what happens!

Color changing in crochet is kind of weird and I’ll explain a little better below…I hope. Essentially, you have to think ahead and attach your new color before the stitch that needs the new color.

It’s kind of like tapestry crochet, but we’re using double crochets instead of single crochets.

I also recommend blocking this doily and basically anything that you crochet with thread. It looks so much cleaner and less scrunched up. I use water to block mine, but I know other people like to use a starch solution to make it stiff. 

Okay enough rambling, let’s start making your Crochet Pokeball Doily!

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Related Posts:

Materials Used:

Abbreviations

  • St – stitch
  • Sl st – slip st
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet 
  • S2W – switch to white
  • S2B – switch to black
  • S2R – switch to red
Crochet Pokeball

About Color Changes in This Pattern

  • Color changes can be a little weird in crochet. You must look ahead to color change and attach your new color before you finish the current you’re on.
  • Sometimes you will finish a dc and sometimes you will not! It depends on whether the next st is a ch or another dc.
  • I don’t recommend “carrying” your last color thread with you. Since we are using dc and contrasting colors, they stick out through the fabric.
  • I recommend cutting your thread when starting a new color OR dropping the yarn and picking it up when you need it again and giving yourself enough line (but one side of your doily will be ugly) 
  • See pics below for info on when to attach the new colored thread.
Color Change For Crochet Pokeball Doily 1
Color Change For Crochet Pokeball Doily 2
Color Change For Crochet Pokeball Doily 3

I’ve also made a crochet chart to go with this pattern below.

I’m still learning how to make these charts, but I think you can see the pattern much better if you don’t like written instructions.

I made the border in a red and blue color in this chart so you can see each round more clearly. 

Crochet_Pokeball_Doily_Diagram

Crochet Pokeball Doily Pattern:

Ch 46

Row 1: sc into 8th ch away from hook (counts as dc and ch 2), ch 2, skip a ch, dc into next ch, *ch 2, skip a ch, sc into next ch, ch 2, skip a ch, dc into next ch.* Repeat from *to* (10 sc, 11 dc, 20 ch 2s)

Row 2: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip ch 2, skip sc, and skip next ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 3, skip ch 2, skip dc, and skip next ch 2, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* (11 dc, 10 ch 3s)

Row 3: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn sc into middle ch of previous row’s ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 2, sc into middle ch of previous row’s ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc* Repeat from *to* twice more. Ch 3, skip ch 3 space, dc into next dc, ch 3, skip ch 3 space, dc into next dc (these two open squares should be aligned right in the middle of the fabric). Repeat from *to* 4 more times. (11 dc, 8 sc, 16 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 4: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip ch 2, skip sc, skip ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 3, skip ch 2, skip sc, skip ch 2, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* once more. Ch 2, S2B, dc into next dc (if done correctly, the white thread will have the appearance of a ch 3 not a ch 2). 3 dc into ch 3 space, dc in dc, 3 dc into ch 3 space, dc into next dc (don’t finish the final pull through, S2W). Repeat from *to* 4 more times (17 dc, 8 ch 3s)

Row 5: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc into middle ch of ch 3 space, *ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, dc into middle ch of ch 3 space, ch 2, dc into next dc,* ch 2, S2B dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc (don’t finish last pull through and S2W), dc in next 7 dc S2B, dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc S2W ch 3, dc in next dc. Repeat from *to* twice more. (23 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 6: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, (finish this last dc all the way and S2B, skip a ch, dc in 2nd and 3rd ch of ch 3 space, dc into next dc S2W, dc into next 15 dc, S2B, dc into next dc, dc into next ch and middle ch of ch 3 space (don’t finish dc all the way and S2W, ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc (27 dc, 4 ch 3s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 7: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc into middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, sc into middle ch, ch 1, S2B, dc into next dc, dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc S2W dc into next 19 dc, S2B dc in next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc into next dc  S2W, ch 2, sc into middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc (29 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s)

Row 8: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip and dc into next dc, ch 2 S2B, skip and dc into next 3 dc, S2W, dc in next 19 dc, S2B dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc (29 dc, 4 ch 3s)

Row 9: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch, ch 2, dc in next dc S2B, dc in middle and last ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, S2W, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next 5 dc, S2W, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next dc, dc in first ch of ch 3, dc in middle ch of ch 3, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 10: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc into next dc S2B, dc in next 12 dc, S2W, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 12 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3  dc in next dc (33 dc, 2 ch 3s, w ch 1s)

Row 11: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 6 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (28 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 12: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), dc in next dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 9 dc, S2B dc in next 5 dc, S2R, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (28 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch 1s)

Row 13: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2 S2B, skip 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 19 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 2 dc, skip ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 14: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 1 S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 19 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 15: ch 5, (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc, ch 1 S2B, skip a dc, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 15 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W ch 1, skip a dc, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (27 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 16: ch 6, (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, S2B, skip 2 dc, dc in next 5 dc, S2R, dc in next 7 dc, S2B, dc in next 5 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 2 dc, skip ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (23 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 17: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, S2B, skip 3 dc, dc in next 9 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (17 dc, 4 sc,  8 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 18: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (11 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 6 ch 3s)

Row 19: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc (11 dc, 6 sc, 12 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 20 ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, *ch 3, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* (11 dc, 10 ch 3s)

Crochet Pokemon

Border

Instead of going back and forth like we have with the main body of the crochet Pokeball doily, now we will crochet around our square.

Round 1: ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1)  dc into the same st as the starting ch 4, ch 1, dc into same st again. This is our first corner made. 

Ch 1, dc into middle ch of ch 3, *ch 1, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* until we reach the next corner. Your last dc should be placed in the 3rd ch of the previous row’s starting ch 6.  From here, ch 1, dc into same ch, ch 1, dc into same ch again. 

As you can see, our corners will be a combination of (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same corner st. 

Turning down the first side of our doily, ch 1, skip the rest of the ch 3 you just made your corner in and dc into the top of row 19’s dc. Ch 1, skip the length of the rest of that dc and dc into the 3rd ch of row 18. Repeat dc and ch 1s down the side, see the chart as a reference. Sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

(22 “squares” on each side)

Round 2: 

**Note: the ch 1 spaces before and after the middle corner dc from round 1 will have 2 sc in them, not 1. See diagram for details.

ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, 2 sc in next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) into the next dc (this should be the middle dc of round 1s corner). If you need to, place st marker in the corner ch 1 space for later. 2 sc in next ch 1 space, sc into each dc and ch 1 space across until you get to the first dc of the next corner from round 1. Place a sc in this dc, 2 dc into next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) into next dc, 2 sc into next ch 1 space.

Turn down the next side and sc into each dc and ch 1 space, make corners. Sl st to first sc.

(47 sc on each side, 4 ch 1 corner spaces)

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as a dc), (dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same st as ch 3. Ch 1, skip 3 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch 1 corner space. *Ch 1, skip 3 sc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc, ch 1, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc* Repeat from *to* until next corner. 

You should have 3 sc left before the next ch 1 corner space after the last (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) shell. Ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch 1 corner space. Repeat from *to* until next corner again. Corner spaces will be (sc, ch 1, sc). Sl st to top if starting ch 3

(6 shells on each side)

Round 4: sl st into next dc, sl st into ch 1 space. Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 2 dc and sc into next ch 1 space, ch , skip 2 dc, skip next ch 1 space, skip next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch 1 corner space. 

Ch 2, sc into first ch 1 space of next shell, ch 3, skip 2 dc, sc into next ch 1 space of shell, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the sc between the shells, *ch 1, sc into first ch 1 space of next shell, ch 3, skip 2 dc, sc into next ch 1 space of shell, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in sc between shells* Repeat from *to* until next corner,  finish last shell with sc into first ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 2 dc, and sc in next ch 1 space of shell.

Ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) into ch 1 corner space. Repeat on sides and corners in this fashion. Sl st to starting sc

Round 5: sl st into next 2 chs, ch 1 (does not count as a st) sc into ch 3 space. Ch 1, ([dc, ch 1 x7 times], dc) in ch 3 corner space. (This corner shell should have 8 dc separated by ch 1s)

*Ch 1, sc into next ch 3 space on top of next shell, ch 1, skip next sc, skip ch 1 space, skip dc, ([dc, ch 1 x5 times], dc) into ch 1 space between the 2 dc.* Repeat from *to* until next corner, ch 1, sc into ch 3 space in last shell, ch 1, ([dc, ch 1 x7 times], dc) in next ch 3 corner space. Repeat from *to* on sides. 

Sl st to starting sc. (5 smaller shells on sides, 1 larger shell in each corner).

Cut thread with scissors and pull through.

Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking:

Soak doily in cool water for a minute, gently pat dry on a towel. Using a blocking board (or piece of cardboard large enough), pin edges straight with pins. Allow to dry for about 24-48 hours.

That’s it for this Crochet Pokeball Doily Pattern! If you made it this far, thank you, I hope you enjoyed this pattern.

Until next time.

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Crochet Animal Crossing
Patterns

Incredibly Gorgeous Crochet Animal Crossing Doily

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Hi everyone, today we will be learning how to crochet this beautiful Crochet Animal Crossing Doily!

Who can forget the iconic leaf logo from Animal Crossing? Not me! 

I have loved Animal Crossing for a long time. My first game was actually Animal Crossing Wild World on the DS back in the day, but I quickly fell in love and grabbed the original game on the GameCube too.

Since I’ve enjoyed Animal Crossing so much, I thought I’d give it a fun little tribute and make a doily from the leaf that appears when you grab items.

I’m making this doily in a very similar way as my Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily as well, so you should totally check it out!

The center piece of the doily is actually just filet crochet, and then I’ve added a cute little border around it.

If you don’t know what filet crochet is, boy you are missing out! You can make almost any image you want doing this technique, it just takes a little time to get the dimensions right.

If you know how to read a crochet chart, I have one provided below.

It’s honestly super tedious to write out patterns for filet crochet and it’s a lot easier just to look at a chart. However, I am writing how to get you started on the doily and how to do the border.

I have also learned that making crochet charts/diagrams is still super hard, this time I tried my best to free hand the pattern in Procreate, but sheesh it was still hard! So I apologize in advance, my double crochets sort of run together, but I think you can get the gist of it!

Please note that some of these links in this post may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Blocking 

I definitely recommend blocking this doily and literally all doilies you ever crochet. They tend to look scrunched up and don’t sit very flat after you’re done making them.

If you’re going to make these beauties, I strongly suggest soaking them in water, patting them gently with a towel, stretching it on a blocking board and anchoring it down with pins.

Okay let’s go ahead and get started! 👇

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Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl st – slip stitch 
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Stitches:

  • 3dc Cluster – (YO (yarn over), insert hook into st, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops x3 times), should have 4 loops left on hook, YO, pull through all 4 loops.
  • X Stitch – skip 2 sts, dc into next st, going behind the st just made, skip a st, dc into the next
  • Ch 3 Picot – ch 3, sl st into the top of last st made

Special Instructions:

  • The starting ch 4s all count as a dc and ch 1 for the leaf pattern in the center.
  • I will be referring to open squares and closed squares throughout this pattern. An open square consists of a block of: (dc, ch 1, dc) and a closed squares consists of a block of (3dc). These are filet crochet terms that make it easier to count rather than counting each individual stitch.

Crochet Animal Crossing Doily Pattern

Crochet Animal Crossing Doily Chart
Crochet Animal Crossing Stitch Fiddle Chart - Stitch Fiddle

I have two charts to look at as a reference. The first one has the border included and the second one is just the leaf in a simple grid chart.

I thought maybe the top chart with the border might be hard to read in the middle, so I wanted to provided a second option. 

For the green leaf chart, each white square is an open square and each green square is a closed square.

Row 1: Start by making 69 chains.

Dc into 7th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next ch.* Repeat from *to* until end. You should have 32 “open” squares in this row.

Row 2-4: Ch 4, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch and dc into next dc all the way across. 32 open squares.

Row 5: We will start to make the bottom of the leaf in this row. I am starting by reading the chart from the right side to the left, you can do either way, but make sure the leaf is facing the correct way when you get to the border.

Ch 4, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next dc…do this for a total of 14 squares. Dc into next ch 1 space, dc into next dc (this is one closed square made) make 6 more closed squares for a total of 7 closed squares in this row. Make 11 more open squares for the remainder of row. 

Row 6-32: Follow the chart(s) until you reach the border.

Border:

Round 1: Ch 4, make open squares until first corner (you should have a dc in the top of the 3rd ch from previous row here). (Ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in the same ch. This makes a corner of 3 dc separated by ch 1s. Turn down the side of the doily, ch 1, skip length of ch 3, dc in dc from row 31, ch 1, skip length of dc, dc into top of ch 3. Continue making open squares down the side. The second corner should be in the last ch of row 1. (Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in this ch. Refer to chart for details. Sl st to top of starting ch 1. (34 open squares on each side)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same ch, sc into each dc and ch 1 space across. When you get to the center dc of the first corner (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in center dc. Continue this way around. Sl st to starting sc. (71 sc on each side with ch 2 space in corners)

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), instead of going forward, go behind and dc into the sc st away from starting ch. Going forward, skip 2 sts, dc into next st, ch 1, turn behind, skip a st, dc into next st. This is an X stitch. Continue X stitches across, (dc, ch 2, dc) into ch 2 corner space. Sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (23 X stitches on each side with (dc, ch 2, dc) corners)

Round 4: Ch 1, sc into same ch. Ch 1, *skip ch 1 space, sc into next 2 dc.* Repeat from *to.* in corners make ch 3 over ch 2 space. Sl st into first sc.

Round 5: Sl st again into ch 1 space. Ch 1, sc into ch 1 space. *(Ch 2, skip 2 sc, sc into next ch 1 space x2 times). Skip 2 sc, in next ch 1 space make 7 dc (first shell made). Skip 2 sc, sc in next ch 1 space.* Repeat from *to* until corner. Make 9 dc in ch 3 corner space. Skip 2 sc, sc into next ch 1 space. Continue this way around. Sl st into starting sc. (5 7dc shells on each side with 9dc shells in corner).

Round 6: Sl st again into ch 2 space. Ch 2, sc into next ch 2 space. *In shell from previous row, make dc in first dc, ch 1, dc into next dc (make total of 7dc and 6 ch 1s). Sc into next ch 2 space, ch 2, sc into next ch 2 space.* Repeat from *to.* until corner. Make corner in similar fashion to other shells (8 dc and 8 ch 1s). Continue around. Sl st into starting sc.

Round 7: Ch 1, sl st again into ch 2 space. In first ch 1 space of next shell make 3 dc cluster. Ch 3, sl st into top of 3 dc cluster (ch 3 picot made). (Ch 2, 3dc cluster, ch 3 picot in top of cluster in each ch 1 space of shell, should have 6 3dc clusters with 6 ch 3 picots separated by ch 2s). Sc into next ch 2 space. Continue across make corners in similar fashion to previous shells. Sl st to starting sc.

Cut thread with scissors, pull through. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking, Optional But Recommended:

I suggest blocking your Crochet Animal Crossing Doily. I used just water, but if you want it stiff, use a starch solution.

You will need a bowl of water, a towel, pins, and something to block it on. I use this blocking board, but you can use a pizza box or a cardboard box that is large enough.

Soak the doily in the bowl of water for a minute. Gently press it down to get all the air out of the thread. 

Pick the doily up out of the water and pat it gently with the towel. Do not wring the water out. 

Place the doily on your blocking board or Cardboard box and pin as evenly as possible. Allow to dry for 1-2 days.

Animal Crossing Crochet

That’s it for the Crochet Animal Crossing Doily! I hope that you enjoyed this pattern and that the chars were helpful.

Until next time.

Other Posts You May Like:

Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily
Patterns

Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily

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Hello everyone, today I have a new crochet pattern I would like to share with you, a Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily!

I’ve been feeling nostalgic lately and although I don’t play as much as I used to, I’m still a big fan of The Legend of Zelda series. So I thought I would combine my hobby of crocheting, with my love for one of my favorite video games and created this pattern.

This pattern displays the iconic Triforce symbol inside a mesh, surrounded by a more solid border and then finished with a shell picot combo.

This doily is a small square, measuring about 7” x 7” after blocking. Perfect for displaying in a picture frame or placing under decorative pieces.

I decided to play around with this pattern using three different yarn colors. I thought a gold and a dark green would best represent the Zelda franchise, along with a classic white thread. The gold reminds me of the actual Triforce and the dark green, of the forest Link comes from (or his traditional clothes!)

Related Posts:

Filet Crochet Technique 

I am using a technique called filet crocheting. It’s a way of crocheting where you use “open” or “solid” squares to make a picture or design.

If you know how to do this technique, you can skip down to the pattern, however if you do not, no worries! I went ahead and wrote out instructions for those who are not familiar with filet crocheting. After a few rows, you will understand how this is performed easily.

You will either use a series of (dc, ch 1, skip a st, dc into the next st) to create a open square OR 3 dc in the next 3 sts to make a solid square. 

That’s it, it seems easy enough, but if you are making a picture, a chart is very helpful to use to keep you on track.

I am using the free version of StitchFiddle to create a chart that has the Triforce design I want. I will have the chart below if written instructions make your head hurt (I know they hurt mine sometimes!).

What Do You Use Doilies For?

I use my doilies as decorations in the house. I typically use them underneath candles, or small centerpieces to make them feel more complete. 

Placing this Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily in a picture frame and hanging it on the wall would add some cool and unique decor to your home.

You could also gift this to a family member, significant other, or friend that enjoys the game series. 

Do I Need to Block This?

Yes, it is preferred to block this doily.

When you are crocheting doilies, it’s recommended to block your work when finished so it lays totally flat. Some people like to spray a starch solution on them so they are more stiff. 

Here is how I block my doilies:

  • Get blocking board(s), pins, a bowl of water and a towel.
  • Place the doily in the water bowl and let it soak for a minute or two.
  • Take the doily out, let the water drip back in the bowl (do not wring it out), place on towel and pat it dry.
  • Place on blocking board and pin to size that you desire.
  • Let it dry for a day or two.

If you don’t have a blocking board, that is totally okay, this doily isn’t super big, so if you have a large enough piece of cardboard or even a pizza box, you can pin it on there. I’ve pinned many doilies that way and all have come out great.

Please note that some links in this post may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • Ch 3 Picot – (ch 3, sl st into 3rd ch from hook)

Special Instructions:

  • Starting Ch 4s count as a dc and ch 1 unless specified otherwise.
  • Solid square = 3 dc in a row
  • Open square = dc, ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st
  • Instead of a stitch count for each row, I am using the number of open or solid squares you should have in ().
  • Some of these rows will mirror the row before it, meaning that solid squares are placed on solid squares and open squares are placed on open squares.
Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily Diagram

Here is a crochet diagram of this pattern. I made this myself in Canva and I have discovered that making diagrams/charts is extremely difficult! It’s not perfect, but those who like to see a picture of the pattern will appreciate this. The border is included as well.

Crochet Legend of Zelda Chart - Stitch Fiddle
VIDEO NOT LOADING? CLICK FOR THE VIDEO TUTORIAL OF THE CROCHET LEGEND OF ZELDA DOILY HERE!

Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily Pattern

Ch 47

Row 1: Turn, dc into 7th ch from hook. Ch1, skip 1 ch, *dc into next ch, ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc into next* Repeat from *to*. The last ch should end with a dc. (21 open squares)

Row 1

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, *dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc* Repeat from *to* (21 open squares)

LOZR2

Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, *dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc* Repeat from *to* for a total of 17 squares, you will have 2 more squares from row 2, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next, ch 1 skip ch 1, dc into last dc. (17 closed squares, 4 open squares)

Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next 35 sts, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc into next ch. (17 closed squares, 4 open squares)

Row 5: Ch 4, (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st for a total of 3 open squares, *(dc into next 14 sts for 7 solid squares)*, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc. Repeat from *to.*

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next ch (14 solid squares, 7 open squares)

Row 6: Ch 4, (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x2), dc into next 14 sts, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc into next 15 sts, (ch 1 skip ch 1, dc into next dc x3 times). (14 solid squares, 7 open squares)

Row 7: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x2), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next (4 open squares made). Dc into next 10 sts, ch 1 skip a st, dc into next st, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc into next st, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (3 open squares made)

Dc into next 10 sts, ch 1 skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc x3 times) (4 open squares made)

Row 8: This row will mirror Row 7, place open squares on top of open squares and solid squares on top of solid squares.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st x3) (4 open squares made)

Dc into next 10 sts, (ch 1 skip ch 1, dc into next dc x3) (3 open squares made)

Dc into next 10 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x4) (4 open squares made)

Row 9: Ch 4, turn, skip a ch, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x3), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (5 open squares made)

dc into next 6 sts, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x3), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (5 open squares made),

dc into next 6 sts, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x4 times) (5 open squares made). (15 open squares, 6 solid squares).

Row 10: This row will mirror Row 9. Place open squares on top of open squares and solid squares on top of solid squares.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x4) (5 open squares made)

Dc into next 6 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5) (5 open squares made)

Dc into next 6 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5) (5 open squares made) (15 open squares, 6 solid squares)

Row 11: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x4), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (6 open squares made)

Dc into next 4 sts, (dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc x5) dc into next 4 sts

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5) (6 open squares made) (12 open squares, 9 solid squares)

Row 12: This row will mirror Row 11. 

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5) (6 open squares made)

Dc into next 18 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x6) (6 open squares made) (12 open squares, 9 solid squares)

Row 13: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (7 open squares made)

Dc into next 14 sts

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x6) (7 open squares made) (14 open squares, 7 solid squares)

Row 14: This row will mirror Row 13.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x6) (7 open squares made)

Dc into next 14 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x7) (7 open squares made) (14 open squares, 7 solid squares)

Row 15: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x6), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (8 open squares made)

Dc in next 10 sts

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc) (8 open squares made) (16 open squares, 5 solid squares)

Row 16: This row will mirror Row 15. 

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x7) (8 open squares made)

Dc into next 10 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x8) (16 open squares, 5 solid squares)

Row 17: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x7), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (9 open squares)

Dc into next 6 sts 

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x8) (9 open squares made) (18 open squares, 3 solid squares)

Row 18: This row will mirror Row 17

Ch 4, turn, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x8) (9 open squares)

Dc into next 6 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x9) (9 open squares)

Row 19: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x8),  ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (10 open squares)

Dc into next 2 sts

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x9) (10 open squares) (21 open squares, 1 solid square)

Row 20: This row will mirror Row 19.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x9)

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x10) (21 open squares)

Row 21: This row will mirror row 20

Ch 4, turn, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x20) (21 open squares

Border 

Row 1: We will be crocheting down the first side of the square

Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc into top of last dc crocheted in row 21. Ch 1, skip the length of the last dc in row 21, and dc into the top of the ch 3 in row 20, ch 1, skip the rest of the ch 3 from row 20 and dc into the last dc from row 19. Continue with ch 1, skipping the length of dc/ch 3, and dc into top of dc/ch3. See pic below for details.

Place last dc for this side in first ch in row 1. (Ch 1, dc into same ch x2 more times)

Ch 1, turn down the bottom side of square, skip ch, dc into same ch as next dc from row 2, ch 1, skip next ch, dc into same ch as next dc from row 2. Continue until next corner (dc ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc in next corner). Continue this way until you reach the beginning corner, place (dc, ch 1) into same space as starting ch 4, sl st to 3rd ch. (23 open squares on each side)

Row 2: ch 1, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in same st as joining st, *sc into next ch 1 space, sc into next dc* Repeat from *to* until next corner (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc), continue placing sc into each dc and ch 1 space, and making corners in the same fashion. Sl st to first sc. (49 sc down each side with ch 2 in each corner)

Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), skip a st, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 2 corner space, ch 1, skip a st (you might need to scoot your last dc over to see where the first st is), dc into next 3 sts, *ch 1, skip a st, dc into next 3 sts.* Repeat from *to* until next corner. You should have 1 st left before the next corner. (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into next ch 2 corner space.

Continue this way around, repeating from *to,* and making corners in same fashion. Place last 2 dc in the 2 sts before the starting ch, sl st into 3rd ch. (14 groups of 3 dc on each side with ch 2s in each corner)

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a st, [dc into next dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 corner space, dc into next dc], *ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc, dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* until next corner Repeat from [ to ] for the next corner spaces. Repeat from *to* for sides.

On last side, finish with ch 1 and sl st to top of starting ch 3 (15 groups of 3 dc on each side with ch 2s in each corner)

Row 5: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), skip a st, dc into next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a st, [dc into next dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 corner space, dc into next dc], *ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc, dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* down the sides.

Repeat from [ to ] for ch 2 corner spaces. Sl st to top of starting ch 3 (16 groups of 3 dc down each side with ch 2 corner spaces)

Row 6: Sl st into next ch 1 space. Ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in same ch 1 space, skip next 3 dc, sc into next ch 1 space, skip next 3 dc, in ch 2 corner space make (5 dc, ch 3 picot 5 dc), *skip next 3 dc, sc into next ch 1 space, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space.* Repeat from *to* down the sides.

Place (5 dc, ch 3 picot, 5 dc) in ch 2 corner spaces. Sl st to first st.

Cut with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Block with pins on blocking board.

Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily

And that’s it! I hope you enjoyed this beautiful Crochet Legend of Zelda pattern. Until next time!

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Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern
Patterns

Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

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Hello everyone, today I’m excited to present my latest crochet pattern, the “Gothic Crochet Table Runner.” 

If you’re looking to add a bit of gothic decor to your home, you’ll absolutely love this pattern! The black yarn and the lacy design will transform your dining or coffee table into a statement piece, plus you can tell all your guests you made it yourself! Talk about impressive.

The center of the table runner was inspired by the Gothic Crochet Stitch by astra.lebedeva2019 on Instagram. I loved the way these diamonds are created in that pattern, however for the tiny crochet thread we will be using, I wanted to make the diamonds look more lacy and a little thicker. 

This is a beautiful crochet table runner pattern, created with black crochet thread, however, it is another crochet pattern that takes time to complete and it is designed with crocheter’s who have an intermediate to advanced skill set. 

I didn’t time myself, and I’m a busy mom of little kids, so you’ll probably get it finished faster than me! If I had to guess, this probably took me a month to finish, of inconsistently crocheting 1-2 hours every day. Your time may vary obviously!

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I’ve adjusted the pattern instructions to allow you to make your table runner as long as you want. I don’t recommend making the short side longer than what I’ve described below, I think it makes the table runner look too wide on that side.

Gothic Crochet Pattern

But seriously, look at how pretty this thing is! 

Now as a reminder, I try my best to make pattern instructions accurate, but I AM just a mom who likes to crochet, so please let me know if you see any errors by commenting below. 

With all that, let’s get started on this Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern!

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Ch(s) – chain(s)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • Fpdc – front post double crochet
  • Trc – treble crochet

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch – YO (yarn over), insert hook into designated st/space, pull up a loop x 5 times (11 loops on your hook), YO, pull through all but the last loop (2 loops on your hook), YO, pull through last 2 loops.

Triangle Increase/Decrease – I will discuss these two stitches in detail below. Essentially, this is a group of trcs/dcs that create the top or bottom part of our diamonds.

Special Instructions:

  • I do not have st counts at the end of the rows. This is to allow you freedom to make your table runner as long or short as you’d like.
  • Instructions in () are grouped this way to make it easier to read and is usually written this way to indicate a series of sts made in the same st.
  • There is a bit of math we will have to do later, but don’t worry, I will walk you through it as we get to those spots in the pattern.
Gothic Crochet Stitch

Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

Ch 53

Row 1: *YO twice, insert into 8th ch from hook, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (5 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (6 loops on your hook).

YO, pull through 4 loops, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through 2 loops again. This is your triangle decrease stitch.

Ch 2, skip 2 chs, trc into next ch, ch 1, dc into the first two “loops” in the leg of the trc you just crocheted (see pic below), ch 1, dc into same space, ch 1, dc into same space again. This is your triangle increase stitch. 

Ch 2, skip 2 chs*, repeat from *to* trc into the last ch (4 triangle decreases and 3 triangle increases)

triangle increase dc placement
First two "loops" of the trc in Row 1
GCTR Row 1
Row 1

Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as a trc and ch 2), turn, for this row, we will be making triangle decrease stitches on top of the previous row’s triangle increase stitches and vice versa. 

The last stitch from row 1 should have been a triangle decrease stitch, so for row 2, we will begin with a triangle increase stitch.

Skip the next ch 2 space, make a trc, but place it under the next stitch (not into it as you normally would). I find it helpful to think of this space as the “neck” of the last row’s triangle decrease stitch. Just find a space to insert your hook into the neck and trc there. If you trc into the stitch normally, the diamonds we are trying to create will look off-center. See pic below for a visual on the placement.

row 2 triangle increase trc placement

Triangle increase stitch as you did in row 1. Ch 2, now we will make a triangle decrease into the next triangle increase. Make a triangle decrease stitch as we did in row 1, using only the dcs and trc sts and skipping the ch 1 spaces between. 

If crocheted correctly, this will give us our first diamond shape. 

Ch 2 and repeat these two stitches with a ch 2 between each triangle increase and decrease After the last ch 2, finish your row by skipping 2 chs and trc into the next ch.

Row 3: Ch 6, turn, the first st below should be a triangle increase stitch, so we will begin with a triangle decrease stitch. ch 2, and triangle increase into the next triangle decrease like we did in row 2. There is no difference in this row compared to row 2, other than starting with a different triangle stitch. 

Repeat Rows 2-3 until you reach 62 rows or increase the length with a repeat of 12 rows, do not cut yarn.

Border:

Now we will be creating the border around our length of lacy diamonds. We need to do a few simple rows of sc around to create a nice, thick line, a few rows of mesh squares, and then we’ll finish with an intricate pattern consisting of a variety of stitches.

***Important note on length adjustments***

The last row of our scs border needs to follow a repeat of 27+24 sc (do not count the corner sts). We will be doing 3 rows total of sc. For each row, the sc will increase by two. 

So, for example, on the short side of our rectangle, we need to have a total of 47 sc on the first row. This will increase to 49 sc on the next row, and then to 51 sc on the last row. 27+24 = 51 sc.

This is where stitch markers come in handy on the long side to help you count. Just make a series of 27 sc and make sure that you can fit 24 more on the very last row of sc (row 3).

It seems like a lot, but this is the only way your beautiful border is going to fit. Avoid the headache later by getting the math right early, because we both know that we don’t have the time or patience to frog everything :).

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into the same st, ch 1 (place a stitch marker here to help identify the corners later, otherwise just pray you can find it later lol), sc again into the same st. Now turning down the side, we will be placing a series of 3 sc into the sides of either the turning chs or the trcs from the previous rows.

The last sc you made counts as part of that series of 3, so place 2 more sc into the side of the trc. See pic for a better visual below.

You will have to skip a ch when you reach the starting chs, and that is ok.

sc border placement

When you get close to the next corner, I found it easier to count 2 chs away from the triangle increase/decrease from the starting row and placing my corner st of (sc, ch 1, place a stitch marker, sc) into the next ch away. 

Now going down the next side (this should be the underside of our starting ch), place 1 sc into each ch 2 space, 1 sc into each of the bottoms of the 4 trc that make up the triangle decrease, 1 sc into each ch 2 space, and then 1 sc into the bottom of the triangle increase. Continue this way until you reach the next corner (the 3rd ch after you make 2 sc in the last ch 2 space) and (sc, ch 1, place a stitch marker, sc) in the same ch. 

***Make sure you have the same number of sts on each side***

Continue making sc around the next side and creating another corner st of (sc, ch 1, sc). 

Once you get back to the top of your work, sc into each st, but skip the ch 1s in the triangle increase stitches (it looks too wavy if you do).

Sl st to first sc.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, (sc, ch 1, place st marker, sc) into next ch 1 space, then make 1 sc in each st across (try not to skip the st right after you finish your corner st, sometimes it gets a little hidden). Continue making sc and your corners in this fashion. Sl st to first sc.

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, sc in next st, make a corner st in the next ch 1 space (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue making sc and corner sts as you did in row 2. Sl st to first sc. 

***Take the time here to double check your st counts , remember, your last row needs to have a repeat of 27+24 not including the ch 1 corners. If you need to, it’s ok to add or skip scs to achieve the repeat formula.***

Now we will be making our mesh square rows.

Row 4: Sl st into next few sts until you reach the corner ch 1 space, sl st into the ch 1 space, ch 8 (counts as dc and ch 5), dc in same space, *ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st* repeat from *to* all the way around. (dc, ch 5, dc) in the next ch 1 corner spaces. Sl st to top of 3rd ch of our starting ch 8.

***For my short side, I have 13 mesh squares and on my long side I have 58 mesh squares (not including the ch 5 corners) Your long side number may be different if you increased or decreased the length.***

Row 5: Ch 5, (counts as dc and ch 2), (dc, ch 5, dc) in next ch 5 corner space. *Ch 2, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* around, making (dc, ch 5, dc) in the ch 5 corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd st of starting ch 5.

Row 6: Ch 5, dc in next dc, ch 2, (dc, ch 5, dc), *ch 2, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* around, making (dc, ch 5, dc) in the ch 5 corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd st of starting ch 5.

***Go ahead and stop again, let’s count our mesh squares. Our last row of mesh squares needs to follow a repeat formula of 9+8 squares, not including the corners. I have 17 squares on my short side and 62 squares on my long side. Your border will not fit if we don’t follow this formula.***

GCTR Mesh Squares
Row 6

Row 7: Sl st in each ch and st until you reach the first corner and sl st into the ch 5 space.

(Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in same ch 5 space. Ch 4, *skip over next dc and ch 2, skip over next dc and ch 2 again, sc into next dc (should be the 3rd dc away from the corner space), [skip ch 2 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next dc, skip ch 2 space, sc in next dc] x 2 times, ch 4, skip the next 2 mesh squares, in the next square, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc), ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until you reach the next corner space, skip over last two mesh squares, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch 5, 3dc) in the same ch 5 corner space. Continue this way until you reach the beginning ch, sl st into top of starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 7
Row 7

Row 8: Ch 3, (fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc), ch 4, skip ch 4 and next 3 dc,

*sc in ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, and place (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next sc (between the two shells), skip 3 dc and sc in ch 1 space, ch 4, skip 3 dc and ch 4, (dc in first dc, fpdc in next dc, dc in last dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around middle dc, and dc around last dc), ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until next corner space and (dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc) in the corner. Continue this way until you reach the beginning ch, sl st into top of starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 8
Row 8

Row 9: Ch 3 (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 5,

*skip to ch 2 space, (2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc) in ch 2 space, ch 5, skip 3 dc, skip sc and skip ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 5.*

Repeat from *to* until you reach the corners, (dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 5, skip to ch 2 space, (2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc) in corner spaces.

Continue this way until you reach beginning ch 3. Sl st to top of ch 3.

GCTR Row 9
Row 9

Row 10: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5*, dc in the 4th ch away in next ch 4, dc in next dc, dc in fpdc, ch 5, dc in same st, dc in next fpdc, dc in 1st ch in next 4 ch.

Repeat from *to,* dc in next dc, fpdc in fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 6,

**skip ch 5, skip first ch 4 “loop,” sc in middle ch 4 “loop,” ch 6, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 6.**

Repeat from **to** until corner spaces, (dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5*, dc in the 4th ch away in next ch 4, dc in next dc, dc in fpdc, ch 5, dc in same st, dc in next fpdc, dc in 1st ch in next 4 ch.

Repeat from *to,* dc in next dc, fpdc in fpdc, dc in next dc) in corner spaces. Continue this way until you reach the beginning, sl st to top of starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 10
Row 10

Row 11: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 11, skip over ch 5, skip the set of ch 4 loops, skip next ch 5, and dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc*, ch 5, puff st in next ch 5 space, ch 5, puff st in same space, ch 5, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc. Repeat from *to* once more.)

**Ch 4, puff st in 6th ch in next ch 6, ch 3, skip next sc, puff st in 1st ch of next ch 6, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc**, repeat from *to* once more, repeat from **to.**

Continue this way until next corner space, ch 4, dc in next dc and repeat instructions in () for the next corner. Sl st to top of beginning ch 3.

GCTR Row 11 Corner
Row 11 Corner
GCTR Row 11
Row 11

Row 12: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 dc in 5th ch away, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, skip next 3 dc, skip 1st ch 5 space, puff st in next ch 5 space, ch 3, puff st in same space, ch 3, puff st in same space again, ch 4, skip next ch 5, skip next 3 dc, 2 dc in 5th ch, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc),

*ch 4, puff st in ch 3 space, ch 3, puff st in same st, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 dc in 5th ch away, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc.*

Repeat from *to* until next corner space, dc in next dc, repeat instructions in () for corners. Continue this way until beginning and sl st into top of starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 12 Corner
Row 12 Corner
GCTR Row 12
Row 12

Row 13: Sl st into next 2 dc, sl st into next 4 chs, sl st into dc, [ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, skip ch 4, puff st into next ch 3 space, ch 3, puff st in same space, ch 9, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in next ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in next 3 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc],

ch 4, *skip ch 4, skip next 3 dc, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in ch 3 space, ch 4, skip ch 4, skip 3 dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until corner spaces, (puff st, ch 3, puff st), in ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, repeat instructions in [ ] for corners. Continue this way until beginning and sl st into starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 13 Corner
Row 13 Corner
GCTR Row 13
Row 13

Row 14: Sl st into next 2 dc, sl st into ch 9 space, ch 3, **(ch 1, dc x 8 times [you should have 9 dc]), ch 2, skip 3 dc and sc into ch 4 space, ch 5, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) into next ch 3 space, (ch 3, puff st x 3 times [3 puff sts total]) in ch 9 space,  ch 3, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in ch 3 space, ch 5,**

*sc into ch 4 space, ch 2, skip 3 dc, (dc, ch 1 x 8 times) in ch 9 space, 1 more dc into same ch 9 space, ch 2, skip 3 dc, sc into ch 4 space, ch 5 (puff st, ch 3, puff st) into ch 3 space, ch 5.*

Repeat from *to* until the next corner, skip 3 dc, dc into ch 9 space, repeat from **to** for corners. Sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

GCTR Row 14 Corner
Row 14 Corner
GCTR Row 14
Row 14

Row 15: Ch 7 (counts as trc and ch 3), 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, **(trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made x3 times), trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made, ch 3, sl st into same trc, ch 3, 2 dc into same trc again, (trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made x 3 times), trc in last dc, (you should have 9 trc and 9 “tags”) ch 2**

Skip ch 2, skip ch 5, *(puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) into next ch 3 space, (ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1)*

Skip next ch 3 space, repeat from *to* twice more, skip next ch 3 space (puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) in next ch 3 space. (You should have a total of 8 puff sts and 7 “tags” between the puff sts), ch 2, skip ch 5 space skip ch 2 space, trc into first dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made,

Repeat from **to,** skip ch 2, skip ch 5, (puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) in next ch 3 space, ch 2, skip ch 5, skip ch 2, trc in first dc, repeat from **to** again.

Continue this way around until next corner, ch 2, trc into first dc and repeat from beginning for the corners. Sl st to 4th ch in starting ch 7.

GCTR Row 15 Corner
Row 15 Corner
GCTR Row 15
Row 15

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

CONGRATULATIONS!! You made it!!

Blocking:

To block your gothic crochet table runner, soak it in a large bowl of water for 1-2 minutes. Gently squeeze out the excess water.

Now, you can be fancy and use puzzle blocking boards to help you pin your table runner in place. These are great because you can make them as long and wide as you want (great for long crochet projects).

Or you can place it on a large towel/layer a few towels together, then pin it through the towels. 

Leave it to dry for at least 24 hours.

Thank you for checking out the Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern. I hope that yours turned out beautifully! If you have questions or if you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Until next time!

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Gothic Crochet Pattern Black Coasters
Patterns

Gothic Crochet Pattern – Black Coasters!

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Have you been looking for a gothic crochet pattern, but maybe can’t find a simple or practical one? Well fellow goth crocheters, you can rejoice! Today I have for you; a gothic crochet coaster pattern!

Do you like the gothic aesthetic? Maybe you simply love crocheting with black yarn? Or maybe you hate yourself enough to not only try crocheting with black yarn but…*gasp* TINY black yarn (I’m only kidding, but kinda not really ;)).

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

For this gothic crochet coaster pattern, I’m using Fashion Crochet Thread from Red Heart. I had a hard time deciding what sort of yarn to use for this pattern. I tried using some medium 4 black acrylic yarn, but it ended up being a little too fuzzy and thick for my liking (black cotton yarn probably would have been fine, I just didn’t have any!). 

The normal crochet thread I use would have taken too long to make all the puff stitches, but this fashion thread is JUST the right thickness to make this coaster. 

Skill Level Needed:

I’m just going to say that this black crochet coaster is for an intermediate skilled crochet or one that is willing to learn how to 1) crochet in the round and 2) learn how to crochet puff stitches.

I’ve used a magic circle to start this coaster, but you can also simply chain 2 and crochet into the first chain. 

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Puff Stitches: The Heart of the Design

The puff stitch is the star of this pattern. Why puff stitches? Well, it’s a dense stitch that provides the perfect thickness for a crochet coaster when paired with this type of thread. 

You don’t want a totally thin coaster, because if you have any spillage from sipping your favorite beverage, you want your coaster to catch it and not seep through to the table or surface you’re trying to keep nice. 

How to Crochet a Puff Stitch:

Don’t know how to make a puff stitch? No problem! Let’s discuss the short and detailed version of making this stitch.

  • Short: Yarn over (YO) and insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop three times (7 loops on your hook) YO and pull through all 7 loops.
  • Detailed: Yarn over (YO), insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop, (5 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on your hook). YO one last time and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.

Try to stay consistent with how far you pull your loops up. You’ll want to pull them up high enough that you can get your hook through all loops. Too high and your puff stitch will be too loose, but if you do it too low, it’ll be too hard to pull your hook through.

With all of that in mind, let’s dive on into this lovely, gothic crochet coaster!

Gothic Crochet Idea

Size:

  • This coaster’s diameter is about 4.25” 
  • Your size may vary depending on your tension.
  • If you use a different sized yarn or hook than I used, your final coaster may be smaller or bigger.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Mc – magic circle
  • Ch – chain

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch – Yarn over (YO), insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop, (5 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on your hook). YO one last time and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.

Special Instructions:

  • The first round is started with a magic circle, alternatively you can chain 2 and crochet into the first chain.
  • The starting chain 1’s at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch. 
  • Many patterns will have you chain 1 after you puff stitch to “close” it…we will not be doing this. You’ll go straight into the next puff stitch from the previous one.
  • The number in parenthesis at the end of the round indicates how many stitches you should have. 

Gothic Crochet Coaster Pattern:

  • Round 1: 8 puff sts in mc, sl st to first puff st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 puff sts in every st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
    • **Protip: Having a hard time seeing your stitches? Use a stitch marker after you make your first puff stitch in the round so you know where to join!**
  • Round 3: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next st, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 2 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 3 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 4 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 5 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Gothic Crochet Patterns Free

And there you have it! Enjoy your simple, functional, AND gothic crochet masterpiece! As your coaster finds its place, I hope that it brings that little bit of darkness to your surroundings you’ve been looking for ;).

Until next time!

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Crochet Blissful Bookmark
Patterns

Crochet Blissful Bookmark – Free Pattern

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Hello everyone! Today I have a wonderful crochet pattern for you. I’m calling this the Blissful Crochet Bookmark pattern! It’s a beautiful and functional crochet pattern. 

If you’re a book lover like me, you know the joy you feel when reading a good story. And what better way to mark your place than with a handmade crochet bookmark! Or better yet, gift it to a friend who loves books!

I’m also so in love with the color of the crochet threads I’ve used for this bookmark. The purple color is called Antique from Artiste and wow, it really does have a vintage-inspired hue, giving any crochet project an elegant and nostalgic touch. The tan one is Natural from Red Heart.

I couldn’t decide which color I liked best, so I’m including them both.

Crochet Bookmark Free Pattern
Bookmark in Antique
Crochet Bookmark Lace
Bookmark in Natural

Feel free to use any color yarn you’d like, just make sure you’re using a size 10 yarn, or your bookmark might end up being too large or small. Size 10 yarn or smaller is the perfect sized yarn for any crochet bookmark.

We’ll be crocheting on the underside of the starting chain, forming a long oval shape. When you get to the end of the row, we’ll add a few stitches to help round out the edge and then continue crocheting in the underside.

I recommend blocking your bookmark when you are finished. Without blocking, your bookmark will curl a little bit. I like to block my crochet projects by soaking it in water, patting it dry and then pinning it to a mat (or a pizza box works great too). You can add starch to make it stiff if you’d like as well.

Related Posts:

I hope you all enjoy the Blissful Crochet Bookmark pattern! As always, I try my best to accurately count stitches, if you see a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Used:

Abbreviations:

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Instructions:

  • The starting chain 1s do not count as a stitch
  • The numbers in parentheses at the end of each row signifies how many stitches or types of stitches you should have.
  • I have used parentheses for certain stitches that are repeated to make it visually easier to read.

Crochet Blissful Bookmark Pattern:

Ch 54

  • Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into each ch across, 3 total sc in last ch, turning down the underside of the ch, 1 sc into each ch across, 1 sc in last ch, sl st into first st (108 sts)
  • Row 2: ch 1, sc in same st as joining st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, *(ch 3, skip a st, 1 sc in next st) x3 times total, 1 sc in next 3 sts.* Repeat from *to* 5 times. (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 2 times total. 1 sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from *to* 5 times once more. 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sl st into first sc (82 sc, 30 ch 3 spaces)
  • Row 3: sl st into next 3 sts, ch 1, sc in same st,*ch 5, skip over next 4 sts, 1 sc in 1st ch 3 space, (ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space) x2 times.*  Repeat from *to* until last ch 3 space has been sc into, **ch 5, skip 4 sts, 1 sc into next st, ch 9, skip 5 sts,** 1 sc into next st. Repeat from *to* once more. Repeat from **to,** sl st into first sc. (34 sc, 2 ch 9 spaces, 12 ch 5 spaces, 24 ch 3 spaces)
  • Row 4: ch 1, sc in same st as joining st, *9 dc in next ch 5 space, 1 sc in next ch 3 space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to,* until last ch 3 space sc into, **9 dc in next ch 5 space, 1 sc in next sc, 12 dc in ch 9 space**, 1 sc in next sc. Repeat from *to* once more, until last ch 3 space sc into. Repeat from **to,** sl st to first sc. (24 sc, 10 ch 3 spaces, 114 dc)

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Blissful Crochet Bookmark Easy

That’s it! What do you think about the Blissful Crochet Bookmark? I hope your bookmarks turned out beautifully! 

Until next time!

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Free Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth Pattern
Patterns

Free Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth Pattern

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Hello everyone! Today I have a lovely crochet burp cloth pattern available for you! These burp cloths are made with the ever-popular Peaches and Creme cotton yarn. I honestly think they look so bright and clean!

Make These For A Wonderful Handmade Gift!

Aside from making these for yourself, this can be a thoughtful gift that can be given to a variety of individuals or institutions. Here are some ideas of who would appreciate receiving these crochet burp cloths as a gift:

  • Expectant or New Parents – Gifting crochet burp cloths to expectant or new parents can be a wonderful gesture. They’re a practical item for newborns and the fact that it’s handmade adds a personal and heartfelt element to the gift (I’ve almost cried over handmade gifts given for my babies because they were so thoughtful…darn hormones!).
  • Baby Showers and Gift Exchanges – If you’re invited to a baby shower or participating in a gift exchange, and have the crochet skills, these burp cloths can be an excellent choice. Your handmade gift will be unique, as no one can find one in stores, and hopefully new parents will appreciate the practicality and charm of it!
  • Churches, Charitable Organizations or Hospitals – If you enjoy crocheting for a cause, consider donating your handmade crochet burp cloths to a church, charitable organizations or local hospitals. Many organizations support families in need and your beautiful gift can provide comfort and absorbency to babies from these families. I worked at a hospital that accepted crochet donations (blankets, hats, and bereavement items for stillborns). 

Why Cotton Yarn is a Good Choice for a Burp Cloth:

Feel free to use any yarn you’d like, as long as it’s #4 worsted weight (medium) yarn. If you use a different weight, your burp cloth may become too big or small! I also like using cotton yarn instead of acrylic yarn . 

You can use acrylic, but it’s not very absorbent, and you should try to soften it up before using it on a baby’s delicate skin. 

Here are a few reasons why cotton yarn is a good choice for this crochet project:

  • Softness against baby’s skin – Cotton is renowned for its exceptional softness, making it a great choice for crocheted baby items. You want material that is gentle and non-irritating during use.
  • Absorbency – One of the primary uses for a burp cloth is to absorb spit-ups, drool, and other small spills. Cotton yarn excels in this aspect as it has excellent absorbent properties. The natural fibers in cotton can hold up to 27 times its own weight, making it readily able to soak up spills to keep you, and baby, dry and clean.
  • Breathability – Cotton is a breathable material, allowing air to circulate freely through the fabric. This can help prevent your baby from overheating. The breathability of cotton ensures that the moisture absorbed by the burp cloth evaporates quickly, reducing the chances of discomfort or rashes from trapped moisture.
  • Easy to clean – Babies are notorious for creating messes, and burp cloths are no exception. Choosing a material that is easy to clean is essential. Cotton yarn is machine washable, making it a convenient choice for busy parents. Simply toss the burp cloths into a washing machine, and they will come out fresh and clean, ready to be used again.
  • Durability – Burp cloths undergo frequent washing and heavy use, so durability is an important factor to consider. Cotton yarn is known for its strength and longevity, the natural fibers make it highly resilient and able to withstand repeated washing and drying.
Peaches and Creme in Mint Crochet Burp Cloth

This Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth is designed to be beginner-friendly, making it accessible to both seasoned crocheters and those that are new. With just a few basic stitches, you’ll be able to whip up these beautiful burp cloths in no time! 

We’ll be using a stitch pattern called the Suzette Stitch today. The suzette stitch combines single and double crochet stitches in a simple, but unique way to achieve its distinct texture. The alternating single and double crochets create a balanced pattern that is visually appealing and functional, and the subtle texture provides a gentle surface that can help catch and absorb liquids. 

Here’s a close up of the texture we’ll be making in each color:

Texture in Mint
Mint
Burp Cloth Texture in Royal
Royal
Texture in Ecru
Ecru

Alright, let’s grab our hooks and our favorite colored Peaches and Creme colors and dive on in!

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Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

  • Ch – chain
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Size:

  • 7 in x 17 in (this will vary depending on your tension)

Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth Pattern:

Ch 21

  • Row 1: Make 1 sc into second ch from hook, 1 dc into the same ch, *skip 1 ch, (1 sc and 1 dc) into next ch* repeat from *to.* Your last ch should end up with a (1 sc and 1 dc) worked into it. (20 sts)
  • Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, *skip 1 st and work (1 sc and 1 dc) into the next st (this should be the sc from the previous row)*. Repeat from *to* (20 sts)

Row 3-46: Repeat Row 2.

Border: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each st across, 2 sc in last st (the corner), turning down the long side of the burp cloth, sc all the way to the next corner. I found that placing 2 sc into each leg or “bump” of the dc, then skipping the ch 1’s gave the cleanest edge. 2 sc in next corner st. Continue until last st, sl st into first st.

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in ends with tapestry needle.

Sc placement for border
Try to sc here.

That’s all! Thank you for checking out this Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth pattern! I hope that you love these as much as I do!

Until next time!

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The Grim Reader: A Crochet Bookmark Pattern

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Hello everyone! Today I have an exciting treat for all the bookworms and crochet enthusiasts out there. I’m thrilled to present my latest creation: The Grim Reader Bookmark. That pun made me laugh, so I had to use it to name this pattern. 

This crochet skull bookmark combines lace and literature with a touch of quirky charm. If you’re a fan of spooky tales, a lover of Gothic literature, or simply appreciate unique and eye-catching crochet bookmarks, this pattern is sure to get you inspired.

The Grim Reader Bookmark will serve as a companion for all your reading adventures and is suitable for both beginner and experienced crocheters. 

I’ve used white and black crochet thread for this pattern, but I encourage you to experiment with different colors to customize your skull bookmark according to your style and preferences.

Not only is this a fun and Gothic project for yourself, the Grim Reader also makes for a fantastic gift for fellow book lovers, teachers, librarians, or anyone who appreciates the charm of handmade bookmarks. Pair it with a book that exudes those dark academia vibes and you’ve got the best night in!

Check out the pattern below!

Related Posts:

Crochet Skull Pattern
Crochet Bookmark Skull

Which one do you think looks better? I honestly like them both, but feel free to expand out and use any yarn color you like!

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Size:

  • After blocking, the bookmark is roughly 2.5in x 7.5 in

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Instructions:

  • The starting ch 2 is not considered a st.
  • The number in () indicates how many sts you should have at then end, including the chs.
Crochet Skull Bookmark

The Grim Reader Bookmark Pattern:

Ch 20

  • Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in each ch across (18 sts)  
  • Row 2: Turn, ch 2 (starting ch does not count as hdc for this Row or for the rest of the pattern), 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip 3 sts, 1 hdc in next st, ch 7, skip 6 sts, 1 hdc in next st, ch 4, skip 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
  • Row 3: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 7 dc in ch 7 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
  • Row 4: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space) and 1 sc in 1st dc, ch 7, skip next 5 sts, sc in last dc, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
  • Row 5: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc, 7 sc in ch 7 space, 1 sc in next sc, ch 2, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (23 sts)
  • Row 6: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space), 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
  • Row 7: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 1, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 1, 1 hdc in 1st sc, ch 7, sc in ch 1 space, ch 7, 1 hdc in last sc, ch 1, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 1 sts (27 sts)
  • Row 8: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), 1 sc in next hdc, 7 sc in 1st ch 7 space, 7 sc in 2nd ch 7 space, 1 sc in next hdc, ch 2, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (24 sts)
  • Row 9: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in next 6 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
  • Row 10: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 1, hdc in ch 2 space, ch 1, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in next 10 sts, skip last sc, ch 1, hdc in ch 2 space, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
  • Row 11: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), skip next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
  • Row 12: Turn, ch 2 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, hdc in ch 4 space, ch 3, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in next 4 sts, ch 3, skip last sc, hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
  • Row 13: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in ch 2 space, 1 hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in ch 3 space, ch 6, skip next 4 sts, 2 hdc in ch 3 space, 1 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in ch 2 space, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (18 sts)
  • Row 14: Turn ch 2, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 6 hdc in ch 6 space, 1 hdc in next 6 sts (18 sts)

Repeat Rows 1-14 two more times for a total of 3 skull motifs. 

DO NOT CUT YARN.

Border: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, sc again in same st, going down the side of the bookmark, sc into the top of each hdc and the “leg” of each hdc. (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner st. I had 63 sts down each long side, and 18 sts on the short side, not including the two corner sts. Join with a sl st in ch 1 space. 

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in end with tapestry needle.    

Blocking: This is an optional step, but I recommend blocking your bookmark after weaving in your ends. I like to soak my projects in water for about a minute, then dry it with a towel by gently patting it dry (don’t wring it out), and pinning it to a pizza or a cardboard box to dry. To make the bookmark straight, mark with a ruler a few lines to help you when you pin. 

You can use this blocking board from Boye, it’s awesome because you can interlock them, so if you need a bigger area to block you can customize your space, AND it has lines already on it.

Crochet Bookmark Pattern Free

I hope that the Grim Reader bookmark will add a touch of macabre charm during your reading adventures, and be a reminder that crochet and books can intertwine in wonderful ways!

Thanks for reading, until next time!

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Crochet Pokemon Hat Pokeball
Patterns

Crochet Pokemon Hat – Pokeball (1-3 Months)

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Hey everyone, today I have a Crochet Pokeball Hat Pattern for you!

Are you a fan of Pokemon and looking for a fun way to show off your love for the popular franchise on your little baby? Look no further than this Pokeball-inspired crochet hat! This pattern combines the classic look of a winter hat with the iconic design of a Pokeball, making it the perfect accessory for any Pokemon loving parent. 

Whether you’re braving the cold on a winter day or heading to a Pokemon-themed event with your little one, this hat is sure to turn heads and showcase your love for the game. With easy-to-follow instructions and a simple colorwork design, this pattern is suitable for crocheters of all skill levels. So grab your hooks and yarn, and let’s get started creating your own crochet Pokeball hat!

Be sure to check out some of these other Pokemon Crochet patterns I’ve made!
How Do I Put an Image on a Crochet Hat?

I’ve been curious as to how to put an image on a crochet hat myself, and I think I’ve FINALLY cracked the code. I use the free chart making website, Stitch Fiddle, to do this.

I make an image on Stitch Fiddle, in this case the Pokeball, and I substitute each square on the chart as 1 single crochet in the hat. 

Now, you have to make sure that your image isn’t very big or you’ll have a ginormous, wonky looking crochet hat. Single crochets are also the only way to get your image to work without it getting too distorted (half double crochets and double crochets will make the image too “skinny”). Single crochets have a 1:1 ratio, meaning that they are as tall as they are wide.

I also think it’s best to get an idea of how big your hat needs to be by crocheting until you’ve reached your desired crown diameter and then single crochet a short row (like only make 3 or 4 single crochets, turn and ch 1, etc.) on the hat until you’ve reached the appropriate length for your crown diameter size. 

Look at the amount of rows you single crocheted until the desired length and then count how many you have. That is how many squares long your image can be. The total amount of single crochets you have after you’ve reached your crown diameter is how wide your image can be. 

In the case of the Crochet Pokeball Hat Pattern, I’ve increased until I had a total of 56 stitches. Measured out, I was able to have about 14 rows or 14 squares high to fit an image before the hat would be too long.The Pokeball image is 12 squares high and 12 squares wide, which was the perfect size to fit an image in the middle of the crochet hat.

What is the Crown Diameter and How Do I Find It for My Hat?

The crown diameter is how wide your hat needs to be before you start lengthening. You crochet by increasing stitches in every round until you reach your crown diameter.

It seems like many crochet hat chart sizes have different recommendations for crown diameter and length based on age. To obtain a truly accurate measurement, obtain your head circumference with a tape measure or a piece of string (and then measure the string on a ruler). Take your head circumference number and divide it by 3.14, this is your crown diameter.  

Will this Pattern Work for Other Hat Sizes?

Yes, the Crochet Pokeball Hat technically can be worked for other head sizes (except for newborn). The pattern I have available is made for a 1-3 month old…but you can increase until you hit your crown diameter (as explained above), and use the chart below to place your pokeball, but increase on each side of the pokeball to accommodate the increase in total stitches. You will also have to add a few more rounds below the pokeball to obtain an appropriate length. 

How Do I Change Yarn Colors?

Switch yarn colors the square before the needed color change. This post explains how to color change the right way for this crochet hat pattern. You want to single crochet up to the square before the color change, but don’t finish it all the way! Place the new color on your hook and pull through, proceed to crochet with the new color.

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Hat Size: 

Crown diameter is 4.5 inches and length is 5.25 inches (not including the pom pom). Size may vary depending on your tension and if you use a different yarn/hook size.

Materials Needed: 

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
  • STW – switch to white yarn
  • STB – switch to black yarn
  • STR – switch to red yarn

Special Instructions:

  • The beginning ch 1 does not count as a st.
  • Rounds are worked by turning after each completed round. This makes it easier to carry the yarn colors with you back and forth.
  • The number in () at the end of the round, indicates how many stitches you should have completed. 

Here is the image of the chart I used to make the hat:

Crochet Pokeball Hat Chart
Click here to download Crochet Pokeball Hat PDF
Crochet Pokeball Hat

Crochet Pokeball Hat (1-3 months)

With white yarn

  • Round 1: 8 sc in mc, sl st into first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st into first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st around, sl st into first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts around, sl st into first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts around, sl st into first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts around, sl st into first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts around, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 26 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 26 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 24 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STR, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 24 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 10: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 23 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STR, 1 sc in next 8 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 23 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 11: Repeat round 10. (56 sts)
  • Round 12: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 22 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STR, 1 sc in next 10 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 22 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 13: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 22 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STR, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STR, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW 1 sc in next 22 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 14: Ch 1, 1 sc into next 22 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STR, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STR, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 22 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 15: Ch 1, 1 sc into next 22 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next st, STB, 1 sc in next 3 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 3 sts, STW, 1 sc in next st, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 22 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 16: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 23 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 3 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 3 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 23 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 17: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 23 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 8 sts, STB, 1 sc in next st, STW, 1 sc in next 23 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 18: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 24 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 2 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 24 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 19: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 26 sts, STB, 1 sc in next 4 sts, STW, 1 sc in next 26 sts, sl st into first st (56 sts)
  • Round 20: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog around, sl st into first st (48 sts)
  • Round 21: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog around, sl st into first st (40 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in ends with tapestry needle.  

Pom Pom:

  • To make a pom pom out of yarn, cut a long length of yarn (about 12 inches or so) and set aside. 
  • Wrap the yarn around four fingers about 70 times (or until you’re happy with the thickness of your pom pom). 
  • Carefully slide the yarn off your fingers and onto the string of yarn you cut first. Tie the yarn tightly around the bulk of the yarn you wrapped. 
  • Use your scissors to cut the loops made on both sides. Trim up any long pieces.
  • Sew the pom pom into the center of the hat with tapestry needle.

Thank you very much for checking out the Crochet Pokeball Hat Pattern! I hope that you enjoyed making this fun and whimsical hat. I can’t wait to see all of your amazing creations! Be sure to tag me @strommercrafts 🙂

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