Black and White Star Crochet Baby Blanket

Hey there and welcome to StrommerCrafts, today I am presenting to you my first completed baby blanket pattern! A Black and White Star Crochet Baby Blanket! 

***Please note that this post may contain affiliate links. This means that I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links (at no cost to you!). Thank you for your support!***

I used a 5 mm crochet hook and 1 jumbo skein of white yarn from Red Heart Super Saver and 1 jumbo skein of black yarn from Red Heart Super Saver. 

When finished, this blanket is about 33” x 27” depending on your gauge. 

The stars are actually not a perfectly repeating pattern…I found an image of stars that I liked and used my favorite crochet graph generator, Stitch Fiddle, to create it.

Since the stars are not all the same, you can adjust the black stitches to be the exact same as the first whole star if the variations among the stars bothers you. I’m just lazy, so I left it as is ;).

You’ll also need to change colors correctly when following this pattern. When you switch between the two colored yarns, you’ll find that your skeins will start to get twisted. That is ok! That just tends to happen when you switch, just make sure that you unravel them occasionally so they don’t get knotted. 

Each square on the graph represents 1 half double crochet. I had originally used single crochets, but found that it took way too long to complete a baby blanket this way. Plus it was pretty stiff. The half double crochets worked perfectly, as the stars didn’t get stretched out too much (double crochets would distort the image and make it too tall…if that makes sense!).

Here is the graph I used to make the blanket:

Black and White Star Crochet Graph from Stitch Fiddle
Black and White Star Blanket Graph

Here is a link to a PDF of the pattern, which may be easier to see.

I suggest either printing the graph out to mark where you are in the Black and White Star Baby Blanket pattern or head over to Stitch Fiddle and mark where you are by using your own colored square (this is how I did it). You can also write down on a piece of paper or on your phone which row you last completed or are on.

It’s easy to get lost if you don’t have a way of marking which row you’re on, especially since this is a longer crochet project!

I also polished up the blanket by adding a shell stitch border around it. The shell border makes it look a little more feminine in my opinion, but you can add any border you like (or none at all!).

Corner shot of black and white star baby blanket with shell border
Check out that Shell Border!

Okay, let’s get started on our Black and White Star Crochet Baby Blanket!

Abbreviations Used:

  • Ch(s) – chain(s)
  • St – stitch
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Instructions:

  • Each square on the graph is equal to 1 half double crochet.
  • I carry the yarn color I’m not using with me. This prevents having a thousand ends that have to be weaved back into the project, however, you will be able to see the black yarn between the white. 
  • Make sure that you change yarn colors correctly. This prevents your colors from “straying” away.
  • Remember to untwist your skeins occasionally to prevent future knots and entanglement.

Black and White Star Baby Blanket Pattern:

With black yarn and 5 mm crochet hook:

  • Ch 103, in second ch from your hook, make 1 hdc in each ch across (102 sts)
  • Rows 1-62: Turn, ch 1 and follow the squares on the graph. The white squares indicate that 1 white hdc should be placed and the same with the black. I started Row 1 by reading the graph, left to right. Please see image above or high quality PDF below.
  • Click here for PDF version of the pattern.
  • If you want to make the shell border, don’t cut your yarn yet. When I ended the last row, I had black yarn on my hook already, so I went ahead and cut the white yarn off.

Shell Border (optional)

With 5 mm crochet hook and black yarn:

  • If you haven’t already, turn and ch 1. Skip 2 sts, in the third st make a total of 5 dcs, all separted by a ch 1 (do not ch 1 after the 5th dc).
  • In other words, in the same st: dc and ch 1, dc and ch1, dc and ch1, dc and ch1, and dc.
  • Skip 2 sts and make a sl st in the next st.
  • Repeat all the way to the end of the row. 
Start of the shell border
Turn and ch 1
Close up of shell stitch
Dc and ch 1 x4, dc
3 shell stitches for border
3 shells
  • You should end with a sl st in the last st (if not it’s ok if a shell is there, just keep repeating the pattern around).
  • If you end with a sl st in the last st, ch 1 to adjust for the corner and sl st into the same st.
  • Continue to skip 2 sts (or rows now that we’re down the side) make the shell, sl st, skip 2, all the way around the blanket.
  • The sides of the blanket can be difficult to see where you need to skip two and put your stitches. Try you’re best to stay consistent on both sides. I would count the shells to make sure they match.

And you’re done! I think this black and white star baby blanket turned out great! It took some time, but we always stitch with love, don’t we? 

As always, thank you for checking out my crochet patterns! Until next time!

A Whale of a Pattern! Try this Free Crochet Pattern Today!

Learn to crochet this free whale pattern in a day! This post contains: materials needed, the free whale pattern, and pictures to help guide you.

***Please note that this post may contain affiliate links. This means that I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links (at no cost to you!). Thank you for your support!***

Summer is finally here! Can you believe it? I feel like this year has flown by so quickly and it’s more than halfway over! 

Why not celebrate by crocheting this cute little whale? I had a lot of fun coming up with another crochet stuffed animal, and having it be nautical themed just seemed appropriate for the season.

This crochet whale toy is made very similarly to my frog toy. I will admit, that I’ve been in the groove for making these flatter stuffed animals. They are kind of like amigurimi, but you have to sew two sides of the project together. 

When completed, the whale is about 7″ x 5,” but depends on your tension.

I use Red Heart Super Saver, medium 4 worsted weight yarn for this project. You can use a different type of yarn if you prefer. If it’s not medium 4 worsted weight, then it might come out bigger or smaller than expected!

This project took me less than a day to complete, so it’s a super quick crochet pattern. Perfect for a last minute crochet gift!

Alright let’s dive in!

Materials Needed:

  • 5 mm crochet hook 
  • <1 skein of Dusty Gray Yarn by Red Heart Super Saver 
  • <1 skein of Soft White Yarn by Red Heart Super Saver
  • <1 skein of Black Yarn by Red Heart Super Saver 
  • Poly-fil for stuffing
  • Stitch marker
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

(Please note that these are in US terms, not UK)

  • Ch – chain
  • Mc – magic circle
  • St – stitch
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Hdc – half double crochet

Special Instructions:

  • When working on the body of the crochet whale, do not join to your first stitch with a slip stitch. Continue to single crochet around. Your stitch marker will come in handy to mark the beginning of your rounds. That way, you won’t get lost.
  • When working the tail of the whale (haha), you will notice that some of the rows do not require chain 1’s. This is intentional.
  • I sew both the whale panels together using slip stitches with the crochet hook. Instead of cutting my yarn and pulling through for the second side of the whale, I keep my hook on so I can do this. This step is up to you, you can sew with the tapestry needle instead if you would like.
  • Sew the facial features onto the front panel before joining the two panels together. This is so you can tie your strands of yarn securely inside of the whale.
  • The rounds end with a (x), where x represents the number of stitches you should have.

Crochet Whale Body (Front Panel)

With 5 mm crochet hook and Dusty Gray yarn:

Main Body:
  • 6 sc in mc (if you don’t like the mc, you can ch 2 and start in the second from the hook, but the center “hole” tends to be a little bigger)
  • Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st. Repeat around (18 sts)
  • Round 3: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 2 sts. Repeat around (24 sts)
  • Round 4: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. Repeat around (30 sts)
  • Round 5: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 sts. Repeat around (36 sts)
  • Round 6: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 5 sts. Repeat around (42 sts)
  • Round 7: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 6 sts. Repeat around, sl st into the first st (48 sts)
Tail:
  • Round 8: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in next 5 sts, sl st into next 5 sts (10 sts)
  • Round 9: Turn, sl st into next 3 sts (do not sl st into the first st after you turn…sl st into the next, you’ll lose a st here), 1 hdc into next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sts (9 sts)
  • Round 10: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc into next 3 sts, sl st into next 2 sts (5 sts)
  • Round 11: Turn, sl st into next st (again, not the first st, but the next). 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts (4 sts)
  • Round 12: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in next sts (2 sts)
  • Round 13: Ch 4, turn, (from second ch from hook), 1 sc into next 5 sts (see pic below) (5 sts)
  • Round 14: Ch 4, turn, (from second ch from hook), 1 sc into next 3 sts, sl st into next 2 sts, 1 sc into next 3 sts (8 sts)
  • Round 15: Turn, sl st into next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 3 sts (7 sts)
  • Cut yarn with scissors and pull through.
Beginning of crochet whale fin
Round 13
Middle of crochet whale fin
Round 14 (where to sl st)
Finished fin
Round 15

Crochet Whale Body (Back Panel)

With 5 mm crochet hook and Dusty Gray yarn:

Body:
  • 6 sc in mc
  • Repeat Rounds 1-6 from front panel (above). 
  • Round 7: 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 6 sts, Repeat around (48 sts)
Tail (Back Panel):
  • Round 8: 1 sc in next 5 sts (5 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in next 5 sts, sl st into next 5 sts (10 sts)
  • Round 10: Turn, sl st into next 3 sts (do not sl st into the first st after you turn…sl st into the next, you’ll lose a st here), 1 hdc into next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sts (9 sts)
  • Round 11: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc into next 3 sts, sl st into next 2 sts (5 sts)
  • Round 12: Turn, sl st into next st (again, not the first st, but the next). 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts (4 sts)
  • Round 13: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in next sts (2 sts)
  • Round 14: Ch 4, turn, (from second ch from hook), 1 sc into next 5 sts (see pic below) (5 sts)
  • Round 15: Ch 4, turn, (from second ch from hook), 1 sc into next 3 sts, sl st into next 2 sts, 1 sc into next 3 sts (8 sts)
  • Round 16: Turn, sl st into next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 3 sts (7 sts)
  • Do not cut yarn yet.

Belly

With 5 mm crochet hook and Soft White Yarn:

  • Ch 10
  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, 1 sc into the next 6 chs across, sl st into last 3 chs (9 sts)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sl st into the next 3 sts, make 1 hdc in next 6 sts (9 sts)
  • Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sl st into the next 4 sts (9 sts)
  • Cut a long piece of yarn of for sewing later and pull through.
Belly of whale in soft white yarn
Finished Whale Belly

Facial Features:

  • With your tapestry needle, sew the belly of the whale onto the front panel. Place the belly in the bottom middle of the crochet whale body.
  • Tie off excess yarn in the back of the panel (this will be hidden inside the whale when completed)
  • With Black yarn, cute 3 long strands off with scissors.
  • Sew on the left and right closed eyes, as well as the smile. I like to make a line straight across and then “catch” it a row or so below in the middle. This helps create the “U” shape. See picture below to use as a reference. Tie off excess yarn in the back.
Front panel of crochet whale with finished facial features
Finished Facial Features

Arms (make 2):

With 5 mm crochet hook and Dusty Gray yarn:

  • Ch 4
  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, make 1 hdc in next 2 chs, sl st in last ch (3 sts)
  • Cut a length of yarn for sewing and pull through.
Finished Crochet whale arm
Finished Whale Arm
Front and Back Panels of Crochet Whale Pattern
Front and Back Panels
  • Sew both crochet whale arms onto front panel. The whale’s right arm (your left) will be sewn right on the edge of the front panel. See picture above for reference. Tie off excess yarn in the back.
  • Pick up the back panel of the whale body. Line up the front and the back panels so that they match up evenly. Make sure that the correct sides are facing out.
  • With your 5 mm crochet hook and the back panel, sl st into both the front and back panels of the crochet whale to sew them together. Do not completely sew shut.
  • Leave an open space large enough to stuff the body with poly-fil. Continue to sl st sew along after stuffing.
  • Cut yarn and pull through.
  • Weave in any extra yarn ends with tapestry needle.

And that’s it! I think this little crochet stuffed whale turned out pretty cute. What do you think?

As always, thank you for checking out my crochet patterns! Until next time!

Crochet Whale Pattern by Strommercrafts Pin

Make a Stuffed Crochet Frog in an Afternoon!

Hello everyone! Today we are going to learn how to make a stuffed crochet frog toy! This pattern is so easy and quick, you can crochet this little guy in an afternoon!

***Please note that this post may contain affiliate links. This means that I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links (at no cost to you!). Thank you for your support!***

Okay, so I was inspired to make my little frog friend to go along with my Frog Bucket Hat I made a few months ago. I use the same green yarn for both patterns so they match! Here they are side by side:

Crochet Stuffed Frog and Crochet Frog Bucket Hat

I think they’re so cute together! 

When I was creating this little crochet frog friend, I couldn’t decide if I wanted to give him arms or not. I decided to add arms, but did this using an amigurumi technique by working in a magic circle. The belly is also made with this technique.

If you like how your frog looks without the arms, you can leave them off.

I used medium 4 worsted weight, acrylic yarn. You can use any kind of yarn you would like as long as it’s the correct weight. I just really like the yarn from Red Heart for fun projects like this. Especially since it’s reasonably priced and comes in so many colors.

When finished, he is about 5″ x 5.5″ (give or take, all depends on your tension!)  

Ready to learn how to make your cute, little, crochet frog stuffy? Let’s get started!

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
  • Mc – magic circle

Special Considerations:

  • When making the body of the frog, the chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
  • When working in the magic circle, do not join to the first st with a slip stitch, just continue single crocheting around (a stitch marker is helpful to keep track of your rounds).
  • The number in parenthesis at the end of the row/round, indicates how many stitches you should have.
  • When finished with the 2nd body panel (do not cut yarn, leave your hook on there if you want to sl st them together)

Body of Frog (make 2):

With 5 mm crochet hook and lime green yarn:

  • Ch 11
  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, sc in each ch across (10 sts)
  • Row 2: Turn, ch 1, make 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across until last st, make 2 sc in last st (12 sts)
  • Row 3: Turn, ch 1, make 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across until last st, make 2 sc in last st (14 sts)
  • Row 4: Turn, ch 1, make 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across until last st, make 2 sc in last st (16 sts)
  • Row 5-8: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across (16 sts)
  • Row 9: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st across until the last two sts, sc2tog (14 sts)
  • Row 10-11:  Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across (14 sts)
  • Row 12: Turn, ch 1, make 3 sc in first st, sc in each st across until last st, make 3 sc in last st (18 sts)
  • Row 13: Turn, ch 1, make 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across until last st, make 2 sc in last st (20 sts)
  • Row 14: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st across until last two sts, sc2tog (18 sts)
  • Row 15: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc in next st, sl st into next 4 sts loosely, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sl st into next 4 sts loosely, 1 sc in next st, sc2tog (16 sts)
  • Row 16: Turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc2tog, sl st into next 3 sts loosely, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sl st into next 3 sts, sc2tog, 2 sc in last st (16 sts)
  • Sl st into same st, cut a reasonable length off and pull through for the FIRST PANEL.
  • If you don’t cut your yarn for the second panel, it can be easy to sew them together by sl sting later. If you want to make the arms, I would suggest sewing the panels together first and then making the arms (unless you would rather sew with your needle, totally up to you).
How body of crochet frog stuffy should look
Completed Body

Eyes (make 2):

With 5 mm hook and black yarn:

  • Ch 3
  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, 1 sc in next 2 chs (2 sts)
  • Cut a reasonable length of yarn for sewing and pull through.

Belly:

With 5 mm hook and soft white yarn:

  • Make 6 sc in mc (6 sts)
  • Round 1: Make 2 scs in each st around (12 sts) [You can use a stitch marker to mark the begining/end of your round so you can count your stitches]
  • Round 2: Make 2 scs in next st, 1 sc in next st. Repeat around (18 sts)
  • Round 3: Make 2 scs in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts. Repeat around (24 sts)
  • Cut a long piece of yarn off for sewing later, and pull through.

Arms (optional, make 2)

With 5 mm hook and lime green yarn:

  • Make 6 sc in mc (6 sts)
  • Round 1-3: Sc in each st around (6 sts)
  • Cut a long piece of yarn off for sewing later and pull through.
Finished frog arm

Assembly:

  • Step 1: Start by sewing facial features onto one of the body panels (see pic below). Tie excess yarn securely in the back.
  • Step 2: Sew the mouth on with a piece of long black yarn. Insert needle into row even with the bottom of the eyes. Go 5 sts across. Insert needle 3 rows below your “line” and catch it to create a V smile (see pic below). Tie excess yarn securely in the back.
  • Step 3: Sew the belly on by lining the bottom of the belly up with the bottom of the body. Tie excess yarn securely in the back.
  • The tied off portions will be hidden inside the frog. Don’t worry about how messy your yarn looks for now!
  • Step 4: With the second body panel, line it up with the first. Use your crochet hook to sew them together by slip stitching around. Leave one side open.
  • Step 5: Stuff with poly-fil to your liking. Continue to sew across by slip stitching until the last st. Cut yarn and pull through. Sew tail with tapestry needle.  
Finished crochet frog with arms
Step 1
How to sew on mouth
Step 2
Line up body panels of the frog
Step 4
Stuffing the body
Step 5

You’re all done! What a fun crochet project this was, and I really think it pairs well the Frog Bucket Hat. Make them both as a baby shower gift or just for fun for the kids!

Does the crochet frog stuffy look great with or without the arms? Which one do you think looks better? Let me know in the comments below!

Add a Little Texture to Your Life! 2 Beautiful Crochet Dishcloths in Peaches and Creme Yarn

***This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you click on a link and make a purchase, I may make a commission at no extra cost to you***

In this post you’ll find: the crochet pattern for both dishcloths and materials used.

Hello everyone! Today I bring you not just one, but TWO dishcloth patterns with gorgeous texture! I am using the Peaches and Creme yarn in Linen to make these.

I am so in love with the Peaches and Creme yarn line. The yarn literally looks like peaches and creme! Not only is it beautiful, but the cotton yarn feels so nice to touch. It’s soft, but durable!

If you enjoy these crochet textures and this yarn, check out my previous post on another Peaches and Creme dishcloth here!

Starting left to right, the patterns are: the Bean Stitch Dishcloth and the Crunchy Stitch Dishcloth

Both are very simple stitches that even a beginner crocheter can do. The bean stitch is a combination of single crochets, puffs, and chains. The crunchy stitch is a combination of slip stitches and half double crochets. They both give off a texture that looks somewhat complex, but they are SO easy.

Here’s a close up of that beautiful texture from the Bean Stitch Dishcloth:

Close up of bean stitch dishcloth with peaches and creme stripey linen
Bean Stitch

And here’s a close up of the Crunchy Stitch Dishcloth:

Close up of crunchy stitch dishcloth with peaches and creme stripey linen
Crunchy Stitch

Aren’t they just pretty?

These crochet dishcloths measure around 7″ x 7″ (depending on your tension) when completed.

The bean stitch and crunchy stitch patterns can be made not just for dishcloths, but blankets, hats, scarves, and others! The patterns provided have instructions on how to increase the size if needed.

Materials Needed for Both Patterns:

Abbreviations Used:

  • ch(s) – chain(s)
  • st – stitch
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet

Special Instructions:

  • Instructions are made in US crochet terms, not UK.
  • Repeat pattern between *and* when indicated.
  • For the bean stitch dishcloth pattern, the turning chain does NOT count as a stitch.
  • The bean stitch is comprised of puff stitches, this is how you need to make the puff for this pattern:
    • Step 1: insert hook into the st, yarn over, draw up a loop [2 loops on hook]
    • Step 2: insert into the same st, yarn over, draw up a loop [4 loops on hook]
    • Step 3: insert hook into the same st again, yarn over, draw up a loop [6 loops on hook]
    • Step 4: yarn over and pull through all 6 loops

Bean Stitch Dishcloth Pattern:

  • Ch 26 (or any even number of chs), turn
  • Row 1: Sc in each ch, turn
  • Row 2: Ch 1, sc in next st, skip the next st, make 1 puff st in the next st (see special instructions), *ch 1, skip next st, make 1 puff st in the next st* repeat from *to* until the last st, make 1 sc in last st, turn
  • Row 3-21 (or until desired height): Repeat instructions for Row 2
  • Border (optional): turn, ch 1, sc in each st across until the corner, make a (sc, ch 1, sc), and continue making sc down the sides of the dishcloth. Sl st into the last st. 
  • Cut yarn, pull through and weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crunchy Stitch Dishcloth:

  • Ch 26 (or any even number of chs)
  • Row 1: Sl st in the 2nd ch from your hook, *1 hdc in next ch, sl st into next ch,* repeat from *to,* turn
  • Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), *Sl st into next hdc, 1 hdc into the next sl st,* repeat from *to,* turn
  • Row 3: *Sl st into next hdc, 1 hdc in next sl st,* repeat from *to*, sl st into turning ch
  • Row 4-25: Repeat rows 2 and 3
  • Border (optional): turn, ch 1, sc in each st across until the corner, make a (sc, ch 1, sc), and continue making sc down the sides of the dishcloth. Sl st into the last st. 
  • Cut yarn, pull through and weave in end with tapestry needle. 

As always, thank you for checking out these patterns and I hope you enjoy! I always love a good texture, and the Peaches and Creme yarn makes for wonderful dishcloths.

Happy crocheting!

Peaches and Creme Yarn: Beautiful Crochet Dishcloth Pattern (Free)

***This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you click on a link and make a purchase, I may make a commission at no extra cost to you***

Hello everyone! Today I thought I would share my next crochet project with you; dishcloths! But it’s not just any dishcloth, it’s a dishcloth that has a beautiful texture with beautiful yarn! The yarn that I’ve used for this pattern is called Peaches and Creme Ombre – Oasis. 

This is a cotton yarn which is great for practical crochet projects like dishcloths. It’s softer and much more durable than acrylic. Plus it just feels so much nicer to hold and feel.

I really am quite happy with the way that the yarn looks in this pattern too. Sometimes with the speckled or striped yarns, it’s difficult to tell how it’ll look with your project. The little chocolate and brownish-red flecks break up that main beige color in such a way that’s pleasing to the eye.

The texture created is really simple too. It’s a combination of a single crochet and two double crochets in the same stitch, then skipping two stitches. The stitches lay in such a way that it makes a subtle “bulge” in the project, creating a beautiful, squishy texture.

When finished, the dishcloth measures about 7″ x 7″ (give or take depending on your gauge). 

Here’s a close up of the texture with the Peaches and Creme Oasis yarn:

Close up of textured dishcloth in peaches and creme oasis cotton yarn

Pretty isn’t it? 

As always, you can use any type of yarn you like for this project, and it doesn’t have to be a dishcloth. You can make a blanket or a scarf or a burp cloth for example. Just make sure your yarn is a medium 4 weight yarn or else it might come out too big or small!

If you like this pattern, you might also want to check out my Easy Textured Burp Cloth pattern (which has another beautiful, squishy texture to it).

Materials Used:

  • 5 mm crochet hook
  • 1 little skein (2oz) of Peaches and Creme Cotton Yarn – Oasis 
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations Used:

Please note that I am using US crochet terms and not UK crochet terms for this pattern.

  • ch(s) – chain(s)
  • sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Special Considerations:

  • If you need to adjust the size of your project, chain a multiple of 13 + 1.
  • The turning chain does not count as a stitch.

Textured Crochet Dishcloth Pattern:

  • Ch 26
  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, make *(1 sc, 2 dc) in the same ch, skip 2 chs.* Repeat from *to* until you reach the last 3 chs. Make 1 sc in last ch. Turn (25 sts)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, (turning ch does not count as a st) make *(1 sc, 2 dc) in the next st, skip next 2 sts.* Repeat from *to* until you reach the last 3 sts, 1 sc in last st. Turn (25 sts)
  • Row: 3-18 (or until desired height): Repeat Row 2
Ch 26 for Peaches and Creme Dishcloth
Ch 26
Beginning of Row 2 for Textured Dishcloth
Beginning of Row 2
End of Row 2 for textured dishcloth pattern
End of Row 2
Textured Dishcloth using Peaches and Creme Oasis Cotton Yarn
Completed Peaches and Creme Dishcloth with border!

You can sc a border around the dishcloth if you’d like, but it is totally optional. Otherwise cut your yarn, pull through, and weave in end with tapestry needle.

Border: sc in each st across until the last st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner st. Crocheting down the side of a project can be challenging, since we are making a square, try to make the side as even as the top/bottom (so 25 sts). Continue making (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner sts and sc across until the last st. Sl st to last stitch, Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end with tapestry needle. 

As always, thank you for reading this post and happy crocheting! Until next time!

Free Dark Souls Crochet Pillow – You Died Accent Pillow

***This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you make a purchase through these links. As a Yarnspirations affiliate, I earn through qualifying purchases.***

Hello everyone! Today I bring you a Dark Souls inspired crochet accent pillow! If you’ve ever played a game in the Dark Souls series…you’re probably familiar with this phrase; YOU DIED. 

My husband enjoys playing this game in his spare time. I played Dark Souls 2 when it first came out, and I was horrible at it to say the least. I really didn’t know what I was getting myself into, and I though it was just like any other RPG at the time. Boy was I wrong!

Despite the difficulty of it, it’s a beautiful game. It’s been five years since the release of Dark Souls 3 and we both decided to revisit it in 2021. 

It’s still amazing. The atmosphere. The music. The game play. 

So I was inspired by the game to graph out the infamous in-game notification: You Died. 

It was fairly easy, just a little time consuming. It took me about a week to totally finish this project, but that was between work and kids, so you’ll probably finish it quicker than I did!  

I also have a chart that you can reference to if you’re more of a visual learner. I created this graph through Stitch Fiddle, which is absolutely amazing for making tapestries via crochet (plus it’s totally free!)

Each block represents 1 single crochet stitch. When crocheting off of a graph, start from the left or right (doesn’t matter) and then continue back when you reach the end of the row. That is, if you start from left to right on the graph, work right to left after you turn your work.

I would also recommend to print this post out and mark off the instructions as you go. This can help prevent you from losing your spot.

You Died Dark Souls Graph

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • ch – chain
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • CTB – change to black
  • CTR – change to red

Special Instructions:

We’ll be making two sides and then sewing them together to make the accent pillow.

You’ll also need to be comfortable with changing colors on your hook. Do this by attaching the new color in the stitch BEFORE the needed color change.

So in the stitch BEFORE the color change, single crochet as normal, but do not complete it. Leave two loops on your hook, attach the new color and then finish the stitch.

This takes a bit of practice at first, but it really isn’t too bad once you get the swing of it. 

You can also carry the other color yarn with you as you crochet. Or you can cut and tie it off. 

I carried my yarn with me (you can tell by the red yarn somewhat poking through in the picture). If you don’t like how that looks, I would cut and tie it off.  One thing I don’t like about that method, is that it takes a REALLY LONG time to do. However, since we’ll be making a front and a back side to the pillow, the tied off ends will be hidden inside. So that’s a bonus. 

You Died Accent Pillow Pattern:

1 of 2 Sides:

With black yarn and 4 mm crochet hook

  • Ch 101
  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, single crochet in each ch across, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 2-14: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (100)
  • Row 15: (starting from left to right on graph) Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 6 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 4 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 5 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 8 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 5 sts, CTB, sc in next st, CTR, sc in next 10 sts, CTB, sc in next 2 sts, CTR, sc in next 8 sts, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 16: Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 2 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 17: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 18: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB. sc in next 11 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 19: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 20: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, turn, (100 sts)
  • Row 21: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB sc in next 7 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 22: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 10 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 23: Ch 1, sc in next 10 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 10 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 7 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 24: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next st, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 10 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 25: Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 2 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 26: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 27: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 28: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 29: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB,sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 30: Ch 1, sc in next 10 sts, CTR, sc in next 8 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 10 sts, CTB, sc in next st, CTR, sc in next 5 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 8 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 5 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 6 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 4 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 31-46: Ch 1, sc in each st across,

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Now we will make the back side of the pillow. This part is much easier!

Dark Souls Pillow!

2 of 2 Sides:

With 4mm crochet hook and black yarn

Ch 101

  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 2-46: Ch 1, sc in each st across (100 sts)

Don’t cut your yarn yet.

We’ll be sewing both sides together using the crochet hook and attached yarn.

 

Assembly:

Line up both sides of the pillow together evenly. Insert your crochet hook through both sides of the pillow and slip stitch in both stitches across.

Before slip stitching the 3rd side of the pillow, start stuffing firmly with poly-fil and continue stuffing as you go.

Slip stitch in the last stitches, cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end with tapestry needle (or tie off). Cut off any excess yarn.

Thank you for trying out this pattern! I hope you like this Dark Souls accent pillow!

As always, happy crocheting!

Duck Bucket Hat – Free Crochet Pattern

Hello everyone, I wanted to share with you my latest creation; a crochet duck bucket hat! Now that it’s getting warmer, I’ve been in the mood to make less wintery hats and focus more on summer time crochet patterns.

I was inspired to create this little guy after I finished my Frog Bucket Hat. I think both turned out super cute!

The Duck Bucket Hat (pictured above) is toddler size, however I do have different sizes included. If you need help determining your hat size, I have a size chart here.

I have estimated sizes underneath each hat size. Please note that these may be a little bigger or smaller depending on your tension. 

As always, you can use any yarn type (this is acrylic), as long as it’s worsted medium weight #4. If you use different yarn weights and hook sizes, your hat might come out too big or small!

I use a magic circle to start the duck bucket hat, but you can use a chain 2 and start your hat in the second chain from your hook if you prefer. If you need help with starting a magic circle, see my previous post here.

The brim of a bucket hat is created by working in the front loop of the next stitch. If you look at the top of your stitch, you can see that there are two little “bars” next to each other. The “bar” that is closest to you is the front one. 

Crocheting in the front loop makes your stitches go out instead of down! Very useful for making brims on hats.

Please also note that on this page, instructions for the different size hats is displayed first and the facial features are at the bottom of this page. I use the same size eyes, beak and hair tufts for all the sizes, however feel free to adjust and make bigger or small by taking away or adding stitches.

Alright, let’s get to the pattern!

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for supporting Strommer Crafts!

Materials Used:

Abbreviations Used:

  • Mc – magic circle
  • Ch – chain
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st -slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Considerations:

  • The beginning chain does not count as a stitch in the bucket hat.
  • Every round starts in the same stitch as the beginning chain in the bucket hat.
  • Slip stitch to the first stitch of the round to join (not the beginning chain) in the bucket hat.
  • Repeat instructions between *and* when indicated.
  • You will see (x) at the end of the instructions for each round/row. X indicates how many stitches you should have when finished with that round/row.
  • Use pins to keep the eyes, beak and hair tufts in placed while sewing (this step is not totally necessary, just a preference).

Crochet Duck Bucket Hat Pattern

Newborn Size:

Hat circumference: 13″ | Hat length: 5″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around sl st into first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around sl st into first st (45 sts)
  • Round 7-13: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st into first st (45 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 14: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (68 sts)
  • Round 15-16 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (68 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

0-3 Months:

Hat circumference: 14″ | Hat length: 5.25″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7-14: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
Hat Brim: 
  • Round 15: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 16-17 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (72 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

3-6 Months: 

Hat circumference: 15″ | Hat length: 5.75″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 11 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (52 sts)
  • Round 8-15: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (52 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 16: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (78 sts)
  • Round 17-18 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (78 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

6-12 Months:

Hat circumference: 16″ | Hat length: 6.25″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5 mm hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8-16: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
Hat Brim: 
  • Round 17: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (84 sts)
  • Round 18-19 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (84 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Toddler (1-3 Years):

Hat circumference: 17″ | Hat length: 7″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 13 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (60 sts)
  • Round 9-18: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (60 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 19: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (90 sts)
  • Round 20-23 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (90 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Child (4-10 years):

Hat circumference: 18″ | Hat length: 7.5″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9-20: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 21: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (96 sts)
  • Round 22-25 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (96 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Teen/Adult Small

Hat circumference: 19.5″ | Hat length: 7.75″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 15 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (68 sts)
  • Round 10-21: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (68 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 22: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (102 sts)
  • Round 23-26 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (102 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Adult Medium:

Hat circumference: 20.5″ | Hat length: 8″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 10-21: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
Hat Brim: 
  • Round 22: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (108  sts)
  • Round 23-26 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (108 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Adult Large:

Hat circumference: 21.75″ | Hat length: 8.25″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 17 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (76 sts)
  • Round 11-22Ch 1, hdc in each st around (76 sts)
Hat Brim: 
  • Round 23: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (114 sts)
  • Round 24-27 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (114 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Eye, Beak, and Hair Tuft:

Use a 4 mm crochet hook for eyes, beak, and tufts.

Again, these are for all hat sizes. Feel free to adjust size if desired by adding or subtracting stitches/rows or by sizing up/down a hook size.

Eyes (make 2):

With Black yarn and 4 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 5 dc in magic circle (5) 
  • Round 2: Use stitch marker to mark the next stitch. Do not sl st to the next st, continue crocheting in the round. Make 2 sc in each st around. Sl st to first st (10 sts)

Cut a long length of yarn for sewing later with your scissors, and pull through.

Beak:

Note that I am not counting the turning chain as a stitch.

With Pumpkin yarn and 4 mm crochet hook:

  • Row 1: Ch 2, make 1 sc in second ch from hook (1 sc)
  • Row 2: Ch 2, turn, make 2 dc in the previous sc you made (2 sts)
  • Row 3: Ch 2, turn, make 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, and 2 dc in the top of the turning chain from the previous row (5 sts)
  • Row 4: Ch 2, turn, make 2 dc in next st, make 1 dc in the next 3 sts, make 2 dc in last st (not the turning chain this time) (7 sts)
  • Row 5: Ch 2, turn, make 2 dc in the next st, make 1 dc in next 5 sts, and make 2 dc in last st (9 sts)

Cut a long length of yarn for sewing later with your scissors, and pull through.

Beginning of beak
Row 1
Row 2 of beak
Row 2
Row 3 of beak
Row 3
Row 4 of beak
Row 4
Row 5 of beak
Row 5
Hair Tufts (make 6):

With Bright Yellow yarn and 4 mm crochet hook:

Row 1: Ch 10, from 3rd ch from hook, make 1 dc, make 1 hdc in next 2 chs, make 1 sc in next 2 chs, and make 1 sl st in next 3 chs (8 sts)

Cut a long length of yarn for sewing later with your scissors and pull through.

Row 1 hair
Ch 10
Row 1
Dc, hdc x2, sc x2, sl st x3

Assembly:

You will need to sew two pieces of the hair tufts together, that way you have a total of three “bulkier” pieces.

Line two tufts up and sew together with tapestry needle. Whip stitch, or use whichever sewing method you prefer. Do not cut off any excess yarn yet.

Line one tuft up on the top of the hat by placing one directly in the middle (there should be a larger hole there). Sew in place with tapestry needle. I like to tie the yarn ends together and cut of any excess, that way my assembled pieces are more secure.

Sew the next two tufts on each side of the middle tuft to create three cute little tufts coming from the top of the hat together. See pic below for reference.

Line the beak in the middle of the hat and sew in place. I think the beak looked better by lining the tip of the beak on the very last round prior to the brim. Feel free to use pins to keep the beak from moving around on you. Tie and cut off any excess.

Sew both eyes almost right on the two corners of the beak. Sew closer than you think you need to. If you sew them too far away from the beak, it tends to look a little wonky when the hat is worn. Wearing the hat will stretch the eyes away from each other a bit and the facial features might look a little silly.

Duck Bucket Hat

And there you have it! I hope you found this crochet duck bucket hat pattern fun and useful. 

This post was all about how to make a crochet duck bucket hat! 

Thank you and happy crocheting!

Frog Bucket Hat – Free Crochet Pattern

Frog Bucket Hat crochet pattern for newborn

Celebrate spring time with this cute, frog bucket hat! This pattern is for a newborn size (13-14 inch circumference). I might go back and update this post for larger sizes, but I’ve been so busy lately with work and family! I’m sure everyone can relate lol!

Edit: I’ve updated this post to include more sizes! This includes Newborn to Adult Large sizes. Enjoy 🙂

The hat itself works up fairly quickly, however the eyes are created by using a magic circle (magic ring), which takes some practice to master. I would say because of the eyes, this would be an intermediate level crochet project.

This would also be a great gift idea for someone who is having a baby in the spring! I really like the pastel spring colors, so this green color was absolutely perfect.

I actually made the frog bucket hat from some mystery yarn I had in my stash. Unfortunately the label was missing, so I’m unsure exactly what brand and color. However, it looks like Red Heart has a yarn called Classic Lime that looks fairly close!

If you like this hat, check out the crochet frog stuffy I made to go along with it! It’s a super quick, frog toy that you can get done in less than an afternoon. Perfect to give to the grandkids!

***This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you make a purchase through these links. As a Skimlinks affiliate, I earn through qualifying purchases.**

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • St – stitch
    Sc – single crochet
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Sc2tog – single crochet two together (this is how we decrease the stitch count)
  • Mc – magic circle (see this previous post on how to create one)
  • Ch – chain

Special considerations:

  • The number in parenthesis at the end of a round is how many stitches you should have.
  • When reading the pattern, repeat *to* when prompted.
  • When making the eyes, continue working in the round, this means that instead of joining your round with a slip stitch and chaining one, you continue single crocheting. This is why a stitch marker is handy to mark the beginning of your rounds so you don’t lose count of your stitches!
  • The brim of the hat is created by crocheting in the front loops of the next stitch.

Frog Bucket Hat Pattern

Newborn Size:

Hat circumference: 13″ | Hat length: 5″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around sl st into first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around sl st into first st (45 sts)
  • Round 7-13: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st into first st (45 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 14: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (68 sts)
  • Round 15-16 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (68 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

0-3 Months:

Hat circumference: 14″ | Hat length: 5.25″

With Spring Green yarn and 5 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7-14: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (48 sts)

Hat Brim: 

  • Round 15: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 16-17 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (72 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

3-6 Months: 

Hat circumference: 15″ | Hat length: 5.75″

With Spring Green yarn and 5 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 11 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (52 sts)
  • Round 8-15: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (52 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 16: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (78 sts)
  • Round 17-18 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (78 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

6-12 Month:

Hat circumference: 16″ | Hat length: 6.25″

With Spring Green yarn and 5 mm hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8-16: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (56 sts)

Hat Brim: 

  • Round 17: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (84 sts)
  • Round 18-19 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (84 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Toddler (1-3 Years):

Hat circumference: 17″ | Hat length: 7″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 13 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (60 sts)
  • Round 9-18: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (60 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 19: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (90 sts)
  • Round 20-23 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (90 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Child (4-10 years):

Hat circumference: 18″ | Hat length: 7.5″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9-20: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (64 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 21: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (96 sts)
  • Round 22-25 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (96 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Teen/Adult Small

Hat circumference: 19.5″ | Hat length: 7.75″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 15 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (68 sts)
  • Round 10-21: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (68 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 22: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (102 sts)
  • Round 23-26 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (102 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Adult Medium:

Hat circumference: 20.5″ | Hat length: 8″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 10-21: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (72 sts)

Hat Brim: 

  • Round 22: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (108  sts)
  • Round 23-26 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (108 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Adult Large:

Hat circumference: 21.75″ | Hat length: 8.25″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 17 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (76 sts)
  • Round 11-22Ch 1, hdc in each st around (76 sts)

Hat Brim: 

  • Round 23: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (114 sts)
  • Round 24-27 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (114 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Frog Eyes: 

With Spring Green Yarn and 4mm crochet hook:

Newborn-6-12 Month Size
Green part (make 2)
  • Round 1: 8 sc in mc (continue to work in the round, do not sl st, use the stitch marker to mark the beginning of the next round) (8 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (16 sts)
  • Round 3: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (24 sts)
  • Round 4-6: 1 sc in each st around (24 sts)
  • ‘Round 7: *1 sc in next st, sc2tog in next* repeat around (16 sts)
  • Round 8: start stuffing the eye with poly-fil lightly. Sc2tog around (8 sts)

Pull yarn through and cut a length of yarn long enough for sewing. Do not sew the bottom of the eye totally shut.

Round 1 of Frog Hat Eyes
Round 1
Round 2 of Frog Hat Eyes
Round 2
Round 3 of Frog Hat Eyes
Round 3
Whites of eyes (make 2)

With white yarn and 4mm hook:

  • Round 1: 4 sc in mc (4 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (8 sts)
  • Round 3: 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (16 sts)

Pull yarn through, cut enough yarn for sewing onto the green part of the eyes.

Toddler-Adult Large Size

With Spring Green yarn and 4mm hook:

Green Part (make 2)
  • Round 1: 8 sc in mc (continue to work in the round, do not sl st, use the stitch marker to mark the beginning of the next round) (8 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (16 sts)
  • Round 3: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (24 sts)
  • Round 4: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts* repeat around (26 sts)
  • Round 5-8: 1 sc in each st around (26 sts)
  • Round 9: *Sc2tog, 1 sc in next 11 sts* repeat around (24 sts)
  • Round 10: *Sc2tog, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (16 sts)
  • Round 11: start stuffing the eye with poly-fil lightly. Sc2tog around (8 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Leave a long tail for sewing. Do not sew the bottom of the eye totally shut.

Whites of eyes (make 2)

With white yarn and 4mm hook:

  • Round 1: 4 sc in mc (4 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (8 sts)
  • Round 3: 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (16 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Leave a long enough tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Sew whites of the eyes onto the green part of the eyes. You can hide your yarn ends on the inside of the green part. 
With your safety eyes, screw them into the middle of the white of the eye. This part may be a little tricky with how thick the yarn is after sewing. 
With the frog eyes completed, we will sew them onto the bucket hat. 
Looking at the hat from the top down, sew the eyes about 4 stitches away from the center of the top. 
I didn’t use safety pins when sewing, but if you have difficulty keeping the eyes from moving around while sewing, they are super helpful!

And there it is! You’re all finished! Thank you for looking at my pattern for this frog bucket hat!

Happy spring and happy crocheting!

How to Crochet a Snorlax Lovey (Free Pattern)

Snorlax used Rest!

And hopefully your kiddo will too! This crochet Snorlax lovey pattern was inspired by Courtney M. at Studio Crafti. She made an awesome (and free) Snorlax pattern that I tweaked and turn into a snugly lovey.

Her pattern for the Snorlax can be found here.

I used her pattern for Snorlax’s head and ears, so if you want to crochet this pattern, you’ll need to go to the link above to get started. 

I felt that for my lovey, the arms were just a little too short in Courtney’s pattern, so I created my own.

For the head and arms, I continued to crochet in the round. This means when I get to the end of my round, instead of slip stitching and chaining one, I continued the pattern into the beginning stitch of the previous round. You can still slip stitch and chain one if you want to, however with amigurumi-like projects, it looks a lot cleaner if you continue in the round.

You’ll also want something to mark the beginning of your rounds so you can count your stitches accurately. I use stitch markers, but you can use a scrap piece of yarn if you don’t have any.

Okay are we ready? Let’s get started!

You will need:

  • Medium worsted weight yarn 4 in these colors:
    • Navy blue
    • Cream 
    • Black
    • White
  • 3.5mm crochet hook (for Snorlax)
  • 6mm crochet hook (for blanket)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Poly-fil for stuffing
  • Stitch marker (optional)
  • Scissors

Terms used in this pattern:

  • mc – magic circle
  • sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • st – stitch
  • ch -chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • inc – increase (this means to crochet two single crochets in one stitch)
  • dec – decrease (crochet two stitches together)
  • (x) – the number at the end of the row indicates how many stitches you should have

Follow Courtney’s steps for the head and ears using the 3.5mm crochet hook. Once you’re finished, pull your yarn through and leave a long tail so you have enough yarn to sew the head onto the blanket.

Eyes and mouth

Take your tapestry needle and sew with black yarn for the eyes and mouth (shown below). It’s best to tie both ends together from the inside of the head so that it doesn’t unravel.

Sew the teeth by making triangle shapes above the mouth (shown below).crc

Crochet Snorlax Lovey Head

Arms, make 2

Round 1) 6 sc in mc (6)

Round 2) inc in each st around (12)

Round 3) 1 sc, inc *repeat around (18)

Round 4-6) sc in each st around (18)

Round 7) sc 2, inc *repeat around (24)

Round 8-13) sc in each st around (24)

Round 14) dec, 1 sc *repeat around (16)

Start stuffing with poly-fil

Round 15) dec around (8)

Take your hook and pull your yarn through. Leave a long tail to sew later and cut with scissors.

Use your tapestry needle to sew the claws at the end of the arms with the white yarn. To hide your white yarn when finished, pull it through the poly-fil towards the top of the arm. I recommend tying both ends of the white yarn together, so the claws are secured and less likely to get pulled out.

Fold the opening of the arm in half so the stitches line up evenly. Take your tapestry needle and sew the opening together.

Blanket

It can be difficult to see stitches with dark colored yarn. The pictures presented below are crocheted with a lighter color yarn so you can see what’s happening in the pattern.

With Navy Blue Yarn

Round 1) mc

Round 2) ch 3, (this counts as a dc in this and the next rounds) 19 dc in mc (20)

Crochet star blanket round 1

Sl st into the top of ch 3

Round 3) ch 1, sc into same st, skip 1 st, 3 dc into next st, ch3, 3 dc into the same st (this is one point of the star shape)

*skip 1 st, sc into next st, 3 dc into next st, ch3, 3 dc into same st* repeat *to* until you reach beginning sc. Join with a sl st.

Crochet star blanket round 2

Round 4) sl st into the next 2 st, ch 3, dc into next st, 3 dc in chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space, dc into next 2 st, skip next 3 sts (dc, sc, dc).

*dc into next 2 sts, 3 dc in chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space, dc into next 2 sts, skip next 3 sts*. Repeat *to*, sl st into top of ch 3 from beginning

Crochet star blanket round 3

Round 5) Sl st into next st, ch 3, dc into next 3 sts, 3 dc in chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space, dc into next 4 sts, skip next 2 sts.

*dc into next 4 sts, 3 dc in chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space, skip next 2 sts*. Repeat *to*, sl st into top of ch 3 from beginning.

Crochet star blanket round 4

Continue in this fashion, essentially growing the star by increasing dcs up and down the sides, growing the corners by doing 3dc, ch 3, and 3 more dc in the same spot. Remember to sk 2 sts at the bottom of the corners.

Grow your star until you have completed a total of 12 rounds with the navy blue yarn, switch to cream yarn and complete 2 more rounds.

To complete, sew the head and arms of Snorlax into the middle of your star blanket with your tapestry needle. Thread your needle into each and every stitch of Snorlax’s head to make sure it stays secure. 

Congratulations! You have your very own crochet Snorlax lovey!