19 Best Crochet Oval Doily Patterns

Hello everyone! Today I have a list of 19 Best Oval Doily Patterns You Need to Try Today!

This post is all about the best oval shaped doilies that I have found, and they’re all FREE!

Sometimes you get a little bored making circular doilies and you just need to change it up a bit. 

Maybe you even feel like challenging yourself and want to learn how a doily shape is formed in crochet. 

Either way, I got you covered! These are 19 of the best crochet oval doilies that I could find (mostly on Pinterest). 

For some reason, most free doily patterns are just diagrams with limited written instructions. But with a little bit of practice and patience you will be able to make these yourself! 

I personally crocheted ALL of these doilies, so trust me when I say these are some of the coolest and best oval doilies I could find!

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What Do You Even Do With Doilies?

Honestly doilies don’t serve any sort of practical function. They’re used as vintage decoration pieces for tables and under special objects  but I like to make these as art pieces.

You can frame your doilies if you can find a frame large enough, and they make really neat wall art. 

I’ve also seen people take small doilies and patch holes in jeans or other articles of clothing with them.

Why Does My Doily Look So Bunched Up When I’m Done?

Ahh. The fallen nature of crochet thread. I’m just kidding, but almost ALL crochet thread projects need to be blocked.

Blocking your doily straightens them out and helps your beautiful piece lay flat so everyone can admire your work and say how cool you are.

Some people like them to be stiff, but you need a starch solution to do that. 

I like to soak my doilies in a bowl of water, pat out the excess water with a towel, and with a foam blocking board,  I stretch it out using pins.

Allow your doily to dry for 24-48 hours or until totally dry, remove the pins and the doily is yours to use!

Materials Needed for Your Doily:

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 Alright, let’s start our list of 19 Best Crochet Oval Doily Patterns!

#1 Oval Flower Doily Pattern

Click to learn the Oval Flower Doily Pattern here.

First on our list is the Oval Flower Doily from Kristine’s Crochets. This is a very unique oval shape, as it is more pointed on the ends! She has written instructions and a video so you can follow along. The doily has an eight petaled flower in the middle and then grows out into a mesh like pattern. She also has two size options that you can choose when making this doily. The one pictured above is the larger size.

#2 Simple Mesh Oval Doily

Click to learn the Simple Mesh Oval Doily here.

The Simple Mesh Oval Doily is a 13 round oval doily. You’ll be crocheting mesh like stitches in the body of the doily and then create a scalloped, treble crochet border. 

This is from a Spanish crochet magazine, and there are some written instructions, but you’ll need Google to translate the picture for you. Start by chaining 54, turning and double crocheting in the 9th chain from your hook. You can then follow the diagram to complete the doily. 

#3 Free Oval Doily Pattern

Click to learn the Free Oval Doily Pattern here.

The Free Oval Doily Pattern is a crochet diagram that I found on Pinterest. Start with a chain of 43, turn and double crochet into the 5th chain from your hook. This crochet oval doily is imbued with shell stitches throughout.

#4 Crochet Oval Hearts Doily

Click to learn the Crochet Oval Hearts Doily here.

The Crochet Oval Hearts Doily is from a German magazine, and similar to #2 on this list, you’ll need to use Google to translate the written instructions, but there is a diagram you can follow. 

#5 Large Oval Leaves Doily 

Click to learn the Large Oval Leaves Doily here.

This oval doily is a big one, I was fooled and thought, oh 17 rounds can’t be that bad! It’s all treble crochets, so that’s what makes this doily huge, quickly. It’s a really neat design, with leaves shooting out from the ovals center line, just make sure you have enough thread!

#6 Wispweave Oval Doily 

Click to learn the Wispweave Oval Doily here.

Julia Hart of draiguna.com strikes again! Her doilies are so so beautiful. This doily is based off of her original Wispweave Doily, but she changed the pattern to create an oval shape. She has step by step instructions with pics to go by. You’ll need to be comfortable making textured stitches, especially in the beginning.

#7 Three Petaled Oval Doily

Click to learn the 3 Petaled Oval Doily here.

The 3 Petaled Oval Doily was a very relaxing doily to make. It’s a simple but lovely design with three petaled flowers crocheted throughout the mesh body of the doily. The trim is another Flower motif with 4 double crochet clusters and a picot chain.

#8 Lacy Oval Doily

Click to learn the Lacy Oval Doily here.

This doily has a simple pattern that looks absolutely stunning. You can adjust the length as needed, but I followed the pattern exactly as shown. Unfortunately the diagram doesn’t show the full starting chain, but if I did my math correctly, it should be a chain of 114! Just make sure to count your squares when you start the first row, you should have 37 squares total.

#9 Lighting Crochet Oval Doily

Click to learn the Lightning Crochet Oval Doily here.

I’m not actually sure what the name of this doily is, but I’m calling it the Lightning doily because the edging (and maybe my color choice) reminded me of fingers of lightning. You’ll have to cut your thread after the 3rd row and then start again on one of the oval points. 

#10 Large Crochet Oval Doily

Click to learn the Large Crochet Oval Doily here.

This doily is massive! I had no idea how big it was going to be, but I just kept rolling with it because I’m no quitter. Not only is this a big doily, but you’re going to have to cut your thread in order to attach the large border to the center. It’s a breathtaking design for sure, just male sure you have enough boards to block it!

#11 Small Floral Design Crochet Doily

Click to learn the Small Floral Design Crochet Doily here.

The Small Floral Design Crochet Doily is such a fun design and doily to make. It’s only 17 rounds long and quickly completed. I think the floral design in this one is really cool and interesting.

#12 Polish Oval Napkin

Click to learn the Polish Oval Napkin here.

The Polish Oval Napkin is great because you can adjust the length at the beginning to make it as long as you’d like. The center is a floral cluster of 4 treble crochets. It then extends out into V stitches and a variety of other long stitches towards the edge.

#13 Another Polish Crochet Doily 

Click to learn Another Polish Crochet Doily here.

I couldn’t think of another name for this doily, so many of them go unnamed! This one however is in Polish again. I think these are leaf motifs and a flower or heart like Motif on the edges of the doily. It’s an amazing design and I actually enjoyed doing this one. 

#14 Star Flower Oval Doily

Click to learn the Star Flower Oval Doily here.

This doily is gorgeous but a little challenging towards the last two rounds, or at least I thought it was! Round 11 kind of reminds me of doing a star stitch, but it’s with treble crochets. So it’s a lot of loops on your hook to manage and pull through if you’re not used to doing that. 

#15 Oval Pineapple Doily

Click to learn the Oval Pineapple Doily here.

If you like pineapple motifs then you’ll enjoy making this oval doily! This was a really fun doily to make. You’ll have to be ok with cutting your thread and restarting in different places in order for the motifs to work correctly. 

#16 Elegant Diamond Oval Doily

Click to learn the Elegant Diamond Oval Doily here.

This doily has an elegant diamond design on both sides of the oval. I really loved this design, but I realized as I was working on the ends of the oval, the ends were not symmetrical, which I thought was strange! I think it would be ok to make them both a reflection of the other, but I just followed the diagram as shown and it still turned out amazing!

#17 Oval Mat Doily 

Click to learn the Oval Mat Doily here.

This is a doily that’ll challenge your stitch making skills. It has a very beautiful flower motif throughout, but in order to make the petals, you have to do a more complicated stitch. Starting at round 5, you will make these complex petals, and honestly I was a little confused, but determined to figure the diagram out. 

Count the yarn overs starting at the bottom and then up the side of the first petal. You should see 6 yarn overs (these look like diagonal lines in the stitches). You need to act like you’re making a double crochet and then make a 3 double treble cluster into the “top” of the double crochet (so the first yarn over spot on the body of the double crochet like leg thing). You’re going to have a whole bunch of loops on your hook while you’re doing this btw.

After your make your 3 double treble crochet clusters for the petal, you must pull through 2 loops twice to finish the treble crochet. 

It’s tricky but you can do it!

#18 Oval Leaf Doily

Click to learn the Oval Leaf Doily here.

So this oval doily has a repeat count available so you can make this as long as you want. If you want to make yours exactly how mine is pictured, you should start with a ch 94 and then double crochet into the 7th ch away. 

I love how the leaves work up in this pattern, or maybe they’re feathers? Either way, it’s a wonderful pattern with only 17 rounds. The little circles are also picots. I just made them ch 3 picots in mine.

#19 French Flower Oval Doily

Click to learn the French Flower Oval Doily here.

The last crochet oval doily is the French Flower Oval Doily. This beautiful doily has a floral center, surrounded by a sea of mesh stitches. The mesh stitches are then bordered by a series of 3 double treble crochet clusters. Finally, the edge of this doily consists of a repeated 6 pointed star.

That’s it for this list of 19 Best Crochet Oval Doilies!

I hope you found some that inspire you to make one of your own!

Until next time!

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Wonderfully Festive Crochet Christmas Doily

Hello, everyone, today I have a new crochet doily pattern for you, the Crochet Christmas Doily!

With the Holidays coming up, I’ve been trying to come up with a few crochet Christmas gift ideas to give to family members and friends.

I enjoy crocheting with thread the most, so trying to think of gift ideas using that was kinda hard.

However, since I’ve been on a filet crochet doily kick, I thought how fun it would be to make a doily that simply says; Merry Christmas.

With doilies like this, the main function of it is to decorate tables, but I’ve seen people take it an extra step and frame this on a dark background, and then hang it on a wall.

Doilies don’t go with every interior decorating styles, but my own mom has a log cabin style home and they have a few of my doilies displayed that look absolutely fire 🔥.

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I’ve decided to use a chart instead of writing out instructions for every row. With filet crochet, it’s a lot easier to just view a chart. I constantly get lost trying to read written instructions, so if you’re anything like me, you’ll like this way better.

In the chart, I’ve made the letters in a red color so they’re more visible, however, I’m crocheting with one color of thread today, but feel free to actually make the letters whatever color you wish(it’ll help them stand out more!)

I’ve made the border for the Crochet Christmas Doily in red and blue colors so you can see where the border starts more easily.

As with some of my other filet crochet doilies, you will start by chaining the length of the doily, and working back and forth in rows. Once the border is reached, you go around the outside of your rectangle, instead of back and forth.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on a link and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

How Do I Make This Doily Lay Flat? It’s All Crinkled!

With most crochet thread projects, you need to block them to force them to lay nice and flat. This is an essential step, especially if you plan on your Merry Christmas Doily being displayed where others will see it. 

To block a crochet doily, I simply soak it in water and pin it on a blocking board as symmetrically as possible to dry.

If you want it flat and crispy, you’ll need to use a starch solution to spray or soak it in.

Materials Needed:

Crochet Christmas Doily Pattern:

Please consult the chart below, but you will start by chaining 170, turning and making a dc into the 6th chain away from the hook.

Once finished, cut thread with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle to hide and secure them.

Blocking the Doily:

Grab your blocking board or a long enough piece of cardboard, pins, a bowl of water, and a towel.

Soak the doily in water (I use cool water but I don’t think it matters too much). Fully submerge it for 2-3 minutes, you may have to hold it down with her hand so it doesn’t float to the surface. 

Pull it out and let it drip excess water back into your bowl. Place it on your towel and gently pat it dry. Do not wring the doily out.

Place the doily on your blocking board and pin it as evenly as possible on all sides.

This is where having a blocking board is king. The blocking board has grids so you can measure and pin on all sides evenly.

That’s all for this Crochet Merry Christmas Doily pattern. I hope the chart was helpful to you and that your doily brings you a little Christmas cheer this year.

Until next time.

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Crochet Legend of Zelda Crest of the Sheikah Doily

Hello everyone, today I have another new crochet doily pattern for you, the Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily Crest of the Sheikah Doily.

I’ve been having too much fun making these doilies based off of my favorite video games, like this Crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Doily, my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, and my Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily

Since I love the Legend of Zelda series, I wanted to do another tribute to one of the coolest parts of the Zelda lore.

This crochet doily features the iconic Sheikah eye that is seen throughout the history of the Legend of Zelda since Ocarina of Time. The symbol that represents the shadowy Sheikah people, is of an open eye with 3 eye lashes and a single teardrop dropping from the center of the pupil.

You’d see this symbol on stones scattered throughout Hyrule, on artifacts in certain temples, and on the Sheikah people’s clothing.

I’ve chosen a red crochet thread for the eye, but you can use any color thread you’d like, just make sure it matches the size of the background color.

I also highly suggest, like with many crochet thread projects, to block your doily so that it lays flat. I simply soak my doily in water, pat it dry with a towel and then pin it to a blocking board. 

Blocking makes your doily look so much better and straighter. It’s an extra step, but it’s worth it and sometimes necessary for a clean looking final product.

Crochet Legend of Zelda Sheikah Symbol
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How to Color Change in this Pattern

Color changing in this doily pattern can be a little tricky, but with mindfulness and practice, you can do it! 

You need to put your new color thread on the hook, the stitch before the change.

Do not finish your stitch completely, place your new color thread, and THEN finish the stitch. 

Here’s an example:

Crochet Legend of Zelda Crest of the Sheikah Color Change 2

There may be times in the pattern that you need to change colors when you’re chaining. This one is tricky because you already have a chain/loop on the hook at all times.

Here’s an example where you need to change colors while chaining:

Crochet Legend of Zelda Crest of the Sheikah Color Change

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Materials Needed:

Crochet Legend of Zelda Patterns

Crochet Legend of Zelda – Crest of the Sheikah Doily Pattern:

Please consult the diagram below. You can click on the image to make it bigger.

To start you will chain 77.

Start with the black symbols first and then work the border around.

I hope you enjoyed this Crochet Legend of Zelda Crest of the Sheikah Doily. Now I just need to figure out which sort of doily I should do next! Another Zelda themed one? Or perhaps something entirely different?

Until next time!

Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily

Hello everyone, today I have a new crochet doily pattern for you! It’s the Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily!

If you love playing Stardew Valley, then you’ll love making this doily with the iconic Stardrop displayed in the middle. Whenever you find one of these Stardrops in game, your character will eat it and instantly gain more energy to perform daily tasks. They’re pretty handy!

I’m including this doily in my series of video game inspired crochet patterns, this includes other doilies like, my Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily, Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, and Crochet Pokeball Doily.

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You’ll need at least 4 thread colors for this pattern. I did try to make this in solid white, but I think you can tell that it’s a Stardrop in the middle much better with the colors. 

Since we are color changing in this doily, there are some things you need to know before starting. Basically, you need to change your thread color the stitch prior to the actual color change. It’s tricky at first, but you’ll get the hang of it.

I’m also including a chart that I made so you can follow along better. I think written instructions can be somewhat tedious when it comes to these filet crochet doilies. 

If you’re not used to reading charts, don’t worry, I have a symbol key on the side so you know what everything means!

Once finished, I highly suggest blocking your Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily. You can leave it unblocked, but crochet thread projects always look 1000% better if you do take the time to block it. 

Let’s go ahead and see what we need to start this pattern below!

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on a link and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

For Blocking:

Abbreviations Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • St – stitch
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • Dc2tog – double crochet two together

How do I color change in this pattern?

Color changing in this doily can be a little tricky, but with mindfulness and practice, you can do it! 

You need to put your new color thread on the hook, the stitch before the change.

Do not finish your stitch completely, place your new color thread, and THEN finish the stitch. 

Here’s an example:

There may be times in the pattern that you need to change colors when you’re chaining. This one is tricky because you already have a chain/loop on the hook at all times.

Here are a few examples where you need to change colors while chaining:

I suggest not carrying your yarn with you as you go. With the crochet thread, you can see the color you’re trying to hide by carrying it (especially the white thread). It just makes it unpleasant to the eye.

So you have two options to deal with your multiple threads: 

  • 1) cut and weave each one in with your tapestry needle
  • 2) keep one side ugly and never show it to the world…

It’s up to you what you want to do. There’s no judgment here!

There will be some criss-crossing of threads as you switch colors. It’s just the nature of crochet color changing. I would just be careful and untwist as you go so you don’t get a huge mess. 

Alright, that’s enough of the finer details, let’s go ahead and get started on this doily!

Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily Pattern

Ch 77

Please consult the diagram for the body of the doily below.

You will start with the black stitches first, and work your way up.

Then you will work the border in the blue and red by going around the square.

Border:

Double check and make sure that you are facing the correct way before beginning. If not, just turn your work and follow along.

Round 1: ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1), skip a ch, and dc into the next ch (should be the middle ch). *Ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next ch* Repeat from *to* all the way across until the first corner. 

Dc into the 3rd ch of ch 6 from previous row, ch 1, dc into same ch, ch 1, dc again into same ch. 

Turn down the side, ch 1, skip ch 3 and dc into the top of the last dc in row 35. Ch 1. Skip the length of the dc you just crocheted into and dc into the top of the next starting ch 3.

Continue in this fashion, placing (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) into the corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd ch in starting ch 4.

38 squares on each side

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same joining space. Sc into each dc and ch 1 space across.

In the middle dc of the corners, make (sc, ch 2, sc), turn and continue making sc into each dc and ch 1 space. 

Sl st to first st.

Round 3: Sl st into next st, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st as joining, *ch 1, skip a st, sc into next st* Repeat from *to* across. Make sure to ch 1 right before the corner spaces. 

In the next corner ch 2 corner space, (sc, ch 2, sc).

Repeat from *to* down the next side.

Sl st to first st

Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 space, ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2). Dc2tog by making the first leg in the same ch 1 space as starting ch, skip next ch 1 space and place the second leg into the next ch 1 space. *Dc in same ch 1 space, ch 2, dctog with the first leg in the same ch space, skip a ch 1 space and place the second leg into the next ch 1 space.* 

Repeat from *to.* until the next corner (should have 18 ch 2 spaces before the first corner).

Ch 2, dc2tog with first leg in the ch 1 space right before the ch 2 space from the previous round, place the second leg into the ch 2 corner space. Ch 3, dc into same ch 2 corner space. 

Ch 2, dc2tog with first leg in ch 2 corner space, and the second leg in the next ch 1 space (it should be the one right after the ch 2 corner space)

Continue this way around.

You should have 21 ch 2 spaces on each side with ch 3s in the corners.

Sl st to 3rd ch in starting ch 5.

Round 5: Sl st into the next ch 2 space, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same ch 2 space. Ch 3, sc into same ch 2 space again, *ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) into next ch 2 space.* 

Repeat from *to.*

 When you get to the ch 2 space right before the ch 3 corner spaces, complete your (sc, ch 3, sc) in the ch 2 space. Ch 3 and (sc, ch 3, sc) into the ch 3 corner space.

Ch 3 and (sc, ch 3, sc) into next ch 2 space.

Continue in this fashion all the way around.

Sl st to first sc.

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in any loose ends

Blocking:

To block this doily, grab a large bowl and fill it with water. Soak the doily in the water for a few minutes (you may need to hold it down with your hand so it doesn’t float to the surface).

Once soaked, grab a towel. Pull the doily out of the bowl and place on the towel (do not wring or squeeze the doily with your hands). 

Pat the doily with towel to soak up excess water.

Place the doily onto a blocking board or a piece of cardboard large enough. Pin the sides evenly with pins.

Allow the doily to air dry for 24-48 hours.

Thank you so much for trying out the Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily Pattern. I hope the diagram was helpful to you.

Until next time.

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27 Amazing Crochet V Stitch Patterns

Hello everyone, today I have a list of 27 Amazing Crochet V Stitch Patterns! 

What is a crochet v stitch in the first place? It really any series of stitches that creates a V shape. It’s typically a variation of a double crochet, chain one, and another double crochet, all in the same stitch or point. 

Anchoring the V stitch down into the same stitch or point allows it to fan out in the iconic V shape.

Crochet V stitches are great to use for a variety of projects, including blankets, hats, sweaters, scarves, tablecloths, and dresses. The V stitches create a little hole or gap, which makes the fabric breathable and allows for more drape.

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If you’ve already discovered how to crochet a V stitch, you may be wondering what are some other ways you can work this stitch into your patterns.

If you have, then this is the list for you!

In this list you’ll find basic crochet V stitch ideas, plus combinations/variations.

The Crochet V Stitch is a simple, but pretty way to break up the monotony of using simple single or double crochets over and over.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

For these crochet V stitch patterns, I’m using a variety of colored yarn from Hobbii and crochet thread from Artiste Cotton Crochet Thread. 

Of course, use whatever yarn size or color you need plus a hook to fit! I think it’s a fun idea to try out different colorways when working these stitches up.

Okay let’s go ahead and check out this list of 27 Amazing Crochet V Stitch Patterns!

#1 Basic Crochet V Stitch 

Click to learn the Basic Crochet V Stitch here.

Basic Crochet V Stitch

We’re starting off our list of Crochet V Stitches with a basic pattern. This V stitch pattern has 2 double crochet in the same stitch with a ch 1 separating the two. This gives the stitch the classic V shape that gives this stitch its name. It’s very simple and easy to learn.

#2 Crochet Iris Stitch

Click to learn the Crochet Iris Stitch here.

Iris Crochet Stitch

The Crochet Iris Stitch is next on our list.  This is a variation of the classic V stitch, but instead of 2 total double crochets, there are 4, with a ch 1 in the middle. It works up the same as a basic V stitch, but it gives the sides of the V a little more thickness and structure.

#3 Iris and V Crochet Stitch

Click to learn the Iris and V Crochet Stitch here. 

Iris and V Crochet Stitch

A fun combination of the V stitch and the Iris Stitch, this pattern has you alternating between the two, giving your crochet project a more interesting design. There is a diagram in this tutorial, which is also very helpful.

#4 3D Crochet V Stitch

Click to learn the 3D Crochet V Stitch here.

3D Crochet V Stitch

This V Stitch is textured and looks the same from both sides. You’ll start with multiples of 4+1. I suggest viewing the video she has to help you get started. I think this stitch pattern looks great using multiple yarn colors, but feel free to try a single color.

#5 Crochet V Cluster Stitch

Click to learn the Crochet V Cluster Stitch here.

Crochet V Cluster Stitch

The Crochet V Cluster Stitch is a slight variation on the V stitch. You’ll crochet two double crochets together, chain 2 and then do another two double crochets together to make a larger and thicker V Stitch.

#6 Nesting Crochet V Stitch

Click to learn the Nesting Crochet V Stitch here.

Nesting Crochet V Stitch

This is a really cool way to use the V Stitch while using a variety of yarn colors. I would definitely use 3 colors for sure. Rich Textures Crochet has an amazing collection of crochet stitches and her video was very helpful. 

#7 Single Crochet V Stitch

Click to learn the Single Crochet V Stitch here.

Single Crochet V Stitch

The single crochet V stitch is smaller take on the V stitch. It’s literally just 2 single crochets separated by a chain 2. I think with a chain 1 it would have been too difficult to see for placement. This also gives the edge of your fabric a saw tooth effect.

#8 Interlocking Double V Stitch

Click to learn the Interlocking Double V Stitch here.

Interlocking Double V Stitch

The Interlocking Double V Stitch by Nordic Hook is a fun way to add a little zig zag to your fabric. You’ll be making double V stitches in the row below, which gives this pattern its zig zag effect.

#9 Treble Crochet V Stitch

Click to learn the Treble Crochet V Stitch here.

Treble Crochet V Stitch

Another variation, the treble Crochet V Stitch is almost the exact same as the single crochet one, but you’re using treble crochets (obviously). This is a good pattern if you want a light, airy fabric that works up quickly.

#10 Double Crochet Wide V Stitch 

Click to learn the Double Crochet Wide V Stitch here.

Double Crochet Wide V Stitch

The Double Crochet Wide V Stitch is literally just that, a wide V stitch. Instead of a chain 1 between two double crochets, you’ll be chaining two. Easy peasy. 

#11 Textured V Stitch Blanket

Click to learn the Textured V Stitch Blanket here.

Textured V Stitch

In this pattern you’ll be placing basic V stitches in the row below, making the fabric thicker and more textured. There are photos to reference in this one to help you figure out the placement of your V stitches, especially after the first row.

#12 Twin V Stitch

Click to learn the Twin V Stitch here.

Twin V Stitch

The Twin V Stitch pattern uses two sets of two double crochets throughout. There isn’t a chain 1 between the double crochets, but the V stitches wouldn’t quite fit if there was. You will chain a multiple of 4 to start and then when you’re happy with the length, turn and double crochet into the 5th chain away from the hook.

This is a very easy pattern to follow as it repeats after the second row.

#13 Half Double Crochet V Stitch 

Click to learn the Half Double Crochet V Stitch here.

Half Double Crochet V Stitch

Another simple pattern, the half double crochet V stitch is almost exactly the same as the classic V stitch, but you’re using half doubles instead of doubles. 

#14 Crochet Puff V Stitch

Click to learn the Crochet Puff V Stitch here.

Crochet Puff V Stitch

It’s another V stitch, but with puff stitches instead of double crochets! The puff stitches give your fabric a squishy texture, which is super fun in my book, however make sure you have plenty of yarn, as this type of stitch is known to be a yarn eater.

#15 Crochet V Stitch Ripple Stitch

Click to learn the Crochet V Stitch Ripple Stitch here.

Crochet V Stitch Ripple Stitch

This is an exciting way to incorporate the V stitch into a zig zag or Chevron style blanket. The peaks of the pattern are just 2 V stitches separated by a chain 1 and then you double crochet two together for the bottom or valley part. There’s a part in the pattern where it tells you to start your row by dc2tog, but it’s literally just chaining 2 and then double crocheting into the next V stitch. 

#16 Crochet V Stitch Chains

Click to learn the Crochet V Stitch Chains here.

Crochet V Stitch Chains

This time you’ll be using a number of chains to make the V in this V stitch pattern. Make sure you pay attention to the terminology, I thought it was in US terms, but it’s not! It’s in UK terms, so I had to redo the first row. There are photos to reference so you know exactly which chain you need to be grabbing to make the V.

#17 Lacy Double V Stitch

Click to learn the Lacy Double V Stitch here. 

Lacy Double V Stitch

An easy and delicate pattern, the Lacy Double V Stitch works up similarly to a normal double V stitch pattern, but you’ll separate the Vs with a chain 2. The separation makes the fabric airy, which is perfect for summertime patterns.

#18 Small Shell and V Stitch Crochet Pattern

Click to learn the Small Shell and V Stitch Crochet Pattern here.

Small Shell and V Stitch

This is a fun combination of the classic V stitch and a 3 double crochet shell. I think this pattern displays the shells and V stitches if you use two different colors. It just helps them pop more. Thank you again Nordic Hook for a great pattern!

#19 Crochet V Stitch Square

Click to learn the Crochet V Stitch Square here.

Crochet V Stitch Square

If you’re tired of trying to make your project long enough in the beginning, try the V stitch from the center, out! You can make this square as big or little as you like. 

#20 Crochet Granny V Stitch

Click to learn the Crochet Granny V Stitch here.

Crochet Granny V Stitch

Okay, not going to lie, this one is very similar to #18, the small shell and V stitch pattern. However, the Granny stitch, or small shell part is in the chain 1 of the V stitch, not next to it! 

The Granny V Stitch is an interesting way to combine both stitches. Use different colors to make your granny stitches stand out!

#21 V Stripe Stitch

Click to learn the V Stripe Stitch here.

V Stripe Stitch

The V Stripe Stitch is a pattern where you alternate V Stitches and then a row of straight double crochets. The row of just doubles gives the fabric a striping effect. 

#22 Crochet Mesh and V Stitch 

Click to learn the Crochet Mesh and V Stitch here.

Crochet Mesh and V Stitch

Similar to the V Stripe Stitch, instead of a row of doubles, it’s a row of mesh stitches. 

Start with a repeat of 2+1 chains, turn and double crochet into the 7th chain away from your hook.

#23 Crochet Double V Stitch Lace

Click to learn the Crochet Double V Stitch Lace here.

Crochet Double V Stitch Lace

I love a good lacy crochet stitch, and the Crochet Double V Stitch Lace Pattern is just that! This is a great crochet stitch for cover ups, cardigans, or anything that needs to be breathable.

#24 Milu Crochet’s V Stitch Stars

Click to learn Milu Crochet’s V Stitch Stars here.

V Stitch Stars

The link to this pattern will take you to a youtube tutorial on the pattern. You’ll use a combo of V stitches, double V stitches, chains and single crochets. The way the stitches work up, it gives the fabric the appearance of pointy stars or flower petals!

#25 Crochet Double V Stitch Diamonds 

Click to learn the Crochet Double V Stitch Diamonds here.

Crochet Double V Stitch Diamonds

This link leads you to a diagram of this pattern. Chain until you’ve reached the desired length. Turn and double crochet into the 9th chain away from the hook. The rows alternate between double V stitches separated by just a chain one, and then double V stitches again, but with a (chain two, single crochet, chain 2) thrown in there. The way this V stitch works up, almost looks like diamonds!

#26 Lacy Lattice Double V Stitch

Click to learn the Lacy Lattice Double V Stitch here.

Lacy Lattice Double V Stitch

In this lace crochet pattern, the rows alternate between double V stitches with a combo of (chain 3, sc, chain 5, sc and a chain 3), and the next row being double V stitch buy with a combo of (chain 4, sc, chain 4).

This is really a beautiful pattern, but try your best to pay attention to which repeat row you’re on!

#27 Stacked Double V Stitch

Click to learn the Stacked Double V Stitch here.

Stacked Double V Stitch

Sometimes you just need a sturdy fabric with a little bit of texture to break it up. This is a good stitch pattern to use for any sort of amigurumi sphere-like project you’re planning. I think this would look great for crochet decorations like pumpkins or apples.

That’s it for this list of 27 Amazing Crochet V Stitch Ideas.

Did you find a pattern you’d like to try? I hope they get you fired up for your next crochet project!

Until next time!

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Absolutely Lovely Crochet Lace Edging

Hello everyone, today I have an Absolutely Lovely Crochet Lace Edging pattern to share with you.

This pattern is very similar to the border I used for my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, but I’ve tweaked it just a little to make it slightly better I think. 

I was inspired to create my very own crochet lace edging after hours of searching for the perfect pattern for my own project. I think this pattern works up amazingly, it’s got a nice scalloped edge with pretty, little picots. 

You can use this crochet lace pattern as a way to decorate or adorn things like dresses, skirts, tablecloths, blankets, or scarves. I’ve even seen people use these to line woven baskets or jars. Really anything you can think of that you want to make look pretty!

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Feel free to use any crochet yarn and hook you’d like, however if you want to make crochet lace, I suggest using crochet thread and a corresponding hook. I’m using size 10 crochet thread and a 1.65 mm crochet hook to make this beautiful pattern.

I’ve made a diagram for this pattern as well. I think the diagrams are super helpful to use as a reference. I’m still trying to get used to making them and they aren’t always perfect but I think you’ll get the idea!

I also highly suggest blocking this pattern and really anything that you crochet as lace. You can get the edging wet and then stretch and pin it onto a blocking board or a piece of cardboard.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Here are some different colors of thread I used for my edging. I like to use the classic white thread, but black can make any piece look instantly more beautiful and gothic-like. The other colors are a lot of fun too.

Alright let’s go ahead and check out the pattern below!

Materials Used:

Abbreviations Used:

  • St – stitch
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Stitches:

  • X Stitch – skip 2 sts, dc into next, ch 1, going backwards/behind the dc just made, skip a st and dc into the next. This makes the two double crochet cross each other.
  • 3dc Cluster – make a double crochet in the designated st, but don’t finish it, make 2 more double crochet without finishing them. You should have 4 loops on your hook at this point, pull through all 4 loops.
  • 3ch Picot – ch 3, slip stitch into the top of the previously made st (in this pattern it will be the top of the 3dc cluster)

Crochet Lace Edging Pattern

Ch a repeat of 12+3

Row 1: Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into each ch across.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, we will be making an X st now. *Skip next 2 sts, dc into the next st. Ch 1, going behind the ch 1 and dc just made, skip a st and dc into the next st. Now we go back forward.* Repeat from *to* until the end, you should have 1 st left, make a dc in the last st.

Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2), turn, skip dc, sc into ch 1 space in the X st, *ch 3, skip next 2 dcs, sc into ch 1 space in the X st.* Repeat from *to.* Ch 2, dc into top of ch 3 from Row 2.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, sc into same st, *ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space, 7 dc into next ch 3 space (this is a shell), sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space* Repeat from *to.* After sc into last ch 3 space, ch 3 and sc into top of ch 3 from Row 3. You should have 2 ch 3 spaces before and after each 7 dc shell, except for the beginning and end of the row, which will have 1 ch 3 space.

Row 5: Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2), turn, sc into next ch 3 space, *in the next 7 dc shell, dc into each dc with a ch 1 between each dc (7 dc with 6 ch 1s) . Sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to* After you’ve sc into the last ch 3 space, ch 2, dc into last sc from Row 4.

Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, sc into same st. *In the ch 1 space of the next shell, 3 dc cluster. (Ch 3 picot, ch 2, 3 dc cluster in next ch 1 space of shell x 5 more times, so 6 3dc clusters with picots on top total in the shell), sc into next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to.* Place last sc into the 3rd ch of Row 5s starting ch 5.

Cut thread with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking:

At this point I would try to find time to block your edging. It will make your piece look very clean and crisp.

Grab a blocking board (or cardboard), pins, a bowl of water, and a towel.

Soak your crochet lace edging in the bowl of water for a minute or two. Gently pat dry on the towel.

Place on your blocking board and pin in a straight line. Place somewhere safe to dry, take the pins out after 1-2 days or until totally dry.

That’s all for this crochet lace edging! What do you think? I hope yours turns out to be lovely! 

Until next time!

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Breathtakingly Nostalgic Crochet Pokeball Doily

Hello everyone! Today I have made a Breathtakingly Nostalgic Crochet Pokeball Doily to share with you. 

I’ve been inspired to make doilies based off of some of my favorite video games growing up. This includes my Crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Doily and my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily

I still remember the very first Pokemon game I played was Pokemon Ruby. I picked Mudkip as my starter and named him Bubbles. I loved that little game…but surprisingly with how many hours I put in, I never caught a dang shiny Pokemon :(.

Anyways…

This is one of my more complex designs, so I drew up a diagram to help you visualize the pattern better.

I am using a new filet crochet technique in this pattern, to make it appear a little more delicate and lacy. I think it also helps the Pokeball “pop” out more so you can see it better.

We will be coloring changing threads in this Crochet Pokeball Doily pattern. I highly suggest that you feel comfortable doing color changes with bigger yarn sizes before trying it with thread. But I understand if you want to just go for it and see what happens!

Color changing in crochet is kind of weird and I’ll explain a little better below…I hope. Essentially, you have to think ahead and attach your new color before the stitch that needs the new color.

It’s kind of like tapestry crochet, but we’re using double crochets instead of single crochets.

I also recommend blocking this doily and basically anything that you crochet with thread. It looks so much cleaner and less scrunched up. I use water to block mine, but I know other people like to use a starch solution to make it stiff. 

Okay enough rambling, let’s start making your Crochet Pokeball Doily!

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Related Posts:

Materials Used:

Abbreviations

  • St – stitch
  • Sl st – slip st
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet 
  • S2W – switch to white
  • S2B – switch to black
  • S2R – switch to red

About Color Changes in This Pattern

  • Color changes can be a little weird in crochet. You must look ahead to color change and attach your new color before you finish the current you’re on.
  • Sometimes you will finish a dc and sometimes you will not! It depends on whether the next st is a ch or another dc.
  • I don’t recommend “carrying” your last color thread with you. Since we are using dc and contrasting colors, they stick out through the fabric.
  • I recommend cutting your thread when starting a new color OR dropping the yarn and picking it up when you need it again and giving yourself enough line (but one side of your doily will be ugly) 
  • See pics below for info on when to attach the new colored thread.

I’ve also made a crochet chart to go with this pattern below.

I’m still learning how to make these charts, but I think you can see the pattern much better if you don’t like written instructions.

I made the border in a red and blue color in this chart so you can see each round more clearly. 

Crochet Pokeball Doily Pattern:

Ch 46

Row 1: sc into 8th ch away from hook (counts as dc and ch 2), ch 2, skip a ch, dc into next ch, *ch 2, skip a ch, sc into next ch, ch 2, skip a ch, dc into next ch.* Repeat from *to* (10 sc, 11 dc, 20 ch 2s)

Row 2: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip ch 2, skip sc, and skip next ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 3, skip ch 2, skip dc, and skip next ch 2, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* (11 dc, 10 ch 3s)

Row 3: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn sc into middle ch of previous row’s ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 2, sc into middle ch of previous row’s ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc* Repeat from *to* twice more. Ch 3, skip ch 3 space, dc into next dc, ch 3, skip ch 3 space, dc into next dc (these two open squares should be aligned right in the middle of the fabric). Repeat from *to* 4 more times. (11 dc, 8 sc, 16 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 4: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip ch 2, skip sc, skip ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 3, skip ch 2, skip sc, skip ch 2, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* once more. Ch 2, S2B, dc into next dc (if done correctly, the white thread will have the appearance of a ch 3 not a ch 2). 3 dc into ch 3 space, dc in dc, 3 dc into ch 3 space, dc into next dc (don’t finish the final pull through, S2W). Repeat from *to* 4 more times (17 dc, 8 ch 3s)

Row 5: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc into middle ch of ch 3 space, *ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, dc into middle ch of ch 3 space, ch 2, dc into next dc,* ch 2, S2B dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc (don’t finish last pull through and S2W), dc in next 7 dc S2B, dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc S2W ch 3, dc in next dc. Repeat from *to* twice more. (23 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 6: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, (finish this last dc all the way and S2B, skip a ch, dc in 2nd and 3rd ch of ch 3 space, dc into next dc S2W, dc into next 15 dc, S2B, dc into next dc, dc into next ch and middle ch of ch 3 space (don’t finish dc all the way and S2W, ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc (27 dc, 4 ch 3s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 7: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc into middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, sc into middle ch, ch 1, S2B, dc into next dc, dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc S2W dc into next 19 dc, S2B dc in next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc into next dc  S2W, ch 2, sc into middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc (29 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s)

Row 8: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip and dc into next dc, ch 2 S2B, skip and dc into next 3 dc, S2W, dc in next 19 dc, S2B dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc (29 dc, 4 ch 3s)

Row 9: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch, ch 2, dc in next dc S2B, dc in middle and last ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, S2W, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next 5 dc, S2W, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next dc, dc in first ch of ch 3, dc in middle ch of ch 3, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 10: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc into next dc S2B, dc in next 12 dc, S2W, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 12 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3  dc in next dc (33 dc, 2 ch 3s, w ch 1s)

Row 11: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 6 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (28 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 12: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), dc in next dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 9 dc, S2B dc in next 5 dc, S2R, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (28 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch 1s)

Row 13: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2 S2B, skip 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 19 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 2 dc, skip ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 14: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 1 S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 19 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 15: ch 5, (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc, ch 1 S2B, skip a dc, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 15 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W ch 1, skip a dc, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (27 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 16: ch 6, (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, S2B, skip 2 dc, dc in next 5 dc, S2R, dc in next 7 dc, S2B, dc in next 5 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 2 dc, skip ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (23 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 17: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, S2B, skip 3 dc, dc in next 9 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (17 dc, 4 sc,  8 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 18: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (11 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 6 ch 3s)

Row 19: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc (11 dc, 6 sc, 12 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 20 ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, *ch 3, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* (11 dc, 10 ch 3s)

Border

Instead of going back and forth like we have with the main body of the crochet Pokeball doily, now we will crochet around our square.

Round 1: ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1)  dc into the same st as the starting ch 4, ch 1, dc into same st again. This is our first corner made. 

Ch 1, dc into middle ch of ch 3, *ch 1, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* until we reach the next corner. Your last dc should be placed in the 3rd ch of the previous row’s starting ch 6.  From here, ch 1, dc into same ch, ch 1, dc into same ch again. 

As you can see, our corners will be a combination of (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same corner st. 

Turning down the first side of our doily, ch 1, skip the rest of the ch 3 you just made your corner in and dc into the top of row 19’s dc. Ch 1, skip the length of the rest of that dc and dc into the 3rd ch of row 18. Repeat dc and ch 1s down the side, see the chart as a reference. Sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

(22 “squares” on each side)

Round 2: 

**Note: the ch 1 spaces before and after the middle corner dc from round 1 will have 2 sc in them, not 1. See diagram for details.

ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, 2 sc in next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) into the next dc (this should be the middle dc of round 1s corner). If you need to, place st marker in the corner ch 1 space for later. 2 sc in next ch 1 space, sc into each dc and ch 1 space across until you get to the first dc of the next corner from round 1. Place a sc in this dc, 2 dc into next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) into next dc, 2 sc into next ch 1 space.

Turn down the next side and sc into each dc and ch 1 space, make corners. Sl st to first sc.

(47 sc on each side, 4 ch 1 corner spaces)

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as a dc), (dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same st as ch 3. Ch 1, skip 3 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch 1 corner space. *Ch 1, skip 3 sc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc, ch 1, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc* Repeat from *to* until next corner. 

You should have 3 sc left before the next ch 1 corner space after the last (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) shell. Ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch 1 corner space. Repeat from *to* until next corner again. Corner spaces will be (sc, ch 1, sc). Sl st to top if starting ch 3

(6 shells on each side)

Round 4: sl st into next dc, sl st into ch 1 space. Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 2 dc and sc into next ch 1 space, ch , skip 2 dc, skip next ch 1 space, skip next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch 1 corner space. 

Ch 2, sc into first ch 1 space of next shell, ch 3, skip 2 dc, sc into next ch 1 space of shell, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the sc between the shells, *ch 1, sc into first ch 1 space of next shell, ch 3, skip 2 dc, sc into next ch 1 space of shell, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in sc between shells* Repeat from *to* until next corner,  finish last shell with sc into first ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 2 dc, and sc in next ch 1 space of shell.

Ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) into ch 1 corner space. Repeat on sides and corners in this fashion. Sl st to starting sc

Round 5: sl st into next 2 chs, ch 1 (does not count as a st) sc into ch 3 space. Ch 1, ([dc, ch 1 x7 times], dc) in ch 3 corner space. (This corner shell should have 8 dc separated by ch 1s)

*Ch 1, sc into next ch 3 space on top of next shell, ch 1, skip next sc, skip ch 1 space, skip dc, ([dc, ch 1 x5 times], dc) into ch 1 space between the 2 dc.* Repeat from *to* until next corner, ch 1, sc into ch 3 space in last shell, ch 1, ([dc, ch 1 x7 times], dc) in next ch 3 corner space. Repeat from *to* on sides. 

Sl st to starting sc. (5 smaller shells on sides, 1 larger shell in each corner).

Cut thread with scissors and pull through.

Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking:

Soak doily in cool water for a minute, gently pat dry on a towel. Using a blocking board (or piece of cardboard large enough), pin edges straight with pins. Allow to dry for about 24-48 hours.

That’s it for this Crochet Pokeball Doily Pattern! If you made it this far, thank you, I hope you enjoyed this pattern.

Until next time.

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25 Amazingly Beautiful Crochet Butterfly Stitch Ideas

Hi everyone, today I have 25 Amazingly Beautiful Crochet Butterfly Stitch Ideas that you will love! 

If you’re looking for crochet stitches that look like butterflies, then this list is definitely for you.

Please note that some of the links in this post may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

These crochet butterfly stitches are a great idea if you’re trying to make a feminine piece of fabric or make this for someone who simply loves butterflies! I think these would also be perfect for a baby blanket for girls. Other ideas for these stitches include scarves, dresses, curtains, or table runners!

I personally found and crocheted all of the patterns on this list, so I hope you enjoy!

You are welcome to use any yarn and corresponding hook. 

I’m using Hobbii’s line of 8/8 gradient pink and Hobbii’s 8/8 gradient blue yarn pack for these lovely butterfly stitches! I also threw in a few patterns using crochet thread from Hobby Lobby’s Artiste line of crochet thread. 

In this list you’ll find a variety of written instructions, video tutorials, and diagrams to crochet your butterflies, plus they’re all FREE! 

Alright, let’s let’s explore these pretty butterfly stitches below! 

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#1 The Last Butterfly Scarf

Click here to learn the Last Butterfly Scarf

The Last Butterfly Scarf is a pattern by the blog, Crochet Between Worlds. It is a pattern that was inspired by a triangular shawl, but she wanted to turn it into a rectangular shape. These butterflies have 3 sections to their wings. These are created by treble crocheting over the previous row’s chains. It is a very pretty stitch and can be alternated if desired. There’s even a nifty chart to look at of the stitch.

#2 Lace Crochet Butterfly Stitch

Click to learn the Lace Crochet Butterfly Stitch here.

The Lace Crochet Butterfly Stitch is a crochet diagram that displays beautiful, lacy butterflies. These butterflies are created by a border of 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc shells with chains in between. The body of the Butterfly is made by a crochet cluster over the previous rows chains. 

#3 Crochet Butterfly Stitch

Click to learn the Crochet Butterfly Stitch here.

This crochet butterfly stitch, creates textured butterflies throughout the fabric. I think it’s best to use 3 different colors minimum so that you can see the background, the butterfly wings and the body. It is slightly tricky to crochet the body, but there is a video tutorial showing you how it is done. It is overall, a very cute and unique crochet stitch.

#4 Crochet Butterfly Stitch Tutorial by Doodies Crochet 

Click to learn Crochet Butterfly Stitch Tutorial by Doodies Crochet here.

This is a great butterfly stitch pattern by Doodies Crochet. This is a lacy stitch. The Butterfly has two segments for the wings on each side and cute little antennas at the top. She does a wonderful job showing how this pattern is worked up and even has written instructions in the video if you get lost.

#5 Crochet Puff Stitch Butterfly Blanket

Click to learn the Crochet Puff Stitch Butterfly Blanket here.

The repeat for this pattern is 26+17 chains. The wings of this Butterfly are made by making 5 yarn over puff stitches. The pattern alternates too and the creator does a great job explaining how to complete this one in her video. 

#6 Lattice Butterflies Pattern

Click to learn the Lattice Butterflies Pattern here.

This is a written pattern on an openwork fabric with Butterfly wings. You need to chain multiples of 12 and then add 4. The double crochet clusters make up the wings for this butterfly crochet stitch. 

#7 Butterfly Stitch Easy Crochet Pattern by Meladora’s Creations

Click to learn the Butterfly Stitch Easy Crochet Pattern by Meladora’s Creations here.

So this stitch is called a Butterfly stitch, because as you crochet throughout the pattern, you insert your hook on each side of a “butterfly” wing. The repeat is easy, but I suggest watching her video tutorial to solidify it in your brain!

#8 Front Post Puff Butterfly Stitches

Click to learn the Front Post Puff Butterfly Stitches here.

The Front Post Puff Butterfly Stitches is by Rich Textures Crochet. She has a lot of good and interesting crochet stitch patterns on her site and this is one of them! The wings of the butterflies are front post puff stitches, which creates a raised, and textured fabric. 

#9 Stacked Crochet Butterfly Stitch

Click to learn the Stacked Crochet Butterfly Stitch here.

So this pattern for a Butterfly stitch is actually really neat! The butterfly wings are puff stitches, but instead of pulling through all your loops like normal, you’re going to yarn over and pull through two of the puff stitch loops (it’ll actually be three strands of yarn on your hook, but whatever!), and you’ll keep doing that until you reach the end of the puff stitch. 

This creates a ribbed effect for the butterfly wings which is so unique and cool. 

These butterflies stack on top of each other, but I’m sure there’s a pattern using this technique to have offset butterflies.

#10 Layered Butterfly Crocodile Stitch

Click to learn the Layered Butterfly Crocodile Stitch here.

This textured crochet butterfly stitch is a new take on the crocodile stitch. You’ll be crocheting around 2 legs of double crochet to make both sides of the wings. I found it was helpful to turn my work clockwise as I was crocheting around the legs. Also pay attention to the second row…I thought I was just doing groups of 3 dc, but it alternates between 3d and 2 dc.

#11 Simple Crochet Butterfly Stitch 

Click to learn the Simple Crochet Butterfly Stitch here.

This is a very simple crochet butterfly stitch pattern! The instructions in this post are made so that you can work this butterfly stitch however you like. So you can make the chains longer, or shorter and place however many stitches in between that you’d like. 

My butterfly stitch is created with a ch 6 and with 4 dc separating the butterflies. 

#12 Blouse with Butterfly Stitch 

Click to learn the Blouse with Butterfly Stitch here.

The Blouse with Butterfly Stitch is one of the craziest looking crochet stitches I’ve ever tried lol. You’ll be making chains and then slip stitching it a few rows below, turning back up the chain and then making one butterfly wing.

The link takes you to the authors website, but it’s in Spanish, so you might have to use Google translate to help. I also viewed the video tutorial, and although she’s speaking in Spanish, she goes slow enough that I was able to follow. 

#13 Sirin’s Crochet Butterfly Stitch

Click to learn Sirin’s Crochet Butterfly Stitch here.

Sirin always has really good crochet patterns! For this crochet butterfly stitch, you’ll start with making multiples of 10+5 chains. The wings of the butterflies are triple treble crochets! They aren’t that difficult to do, but you have to yarn over 4 times and then insert your hook into the stitch you need to. The wings are also attached not in the designated stitch but on the right side of the stitch and then the left. 

This is probably one of prettiest textured stitches I’ve ever made and I’d love to see this worked up as a winter hat!

#14 Amazing Butterfly Crochet Blanket Pattern

Click to learn the Amazing Butterfly Crochet Blanket Pattern here.

This is a beautiful butterfly stitch used to create a soft, and squishy blanket. Of course you can make whatever you want with this stitch! In the video, she is generally speaking in UK terms, but she’ll state what the US terms are, so just be sure to pay attention. 

You’ll be crocheting front post treble crochet clusters and this creates the wings of the butterfly.

#15 Crochet Butterfly Wings Afghan Pattern

Click to learn the Crochet Butterfly Wings Afghan Pattern here.

The Crochet Butterfly Wings Afghan Pattern, is a pretty and feminine crochet stitch. The wings of the butterfly are made with a right shell and a left shell, both consisting of a sc, ch 3, and 2 dc. This pattern is stacked, so you only need to pay attention to two different rows as you work it up. 

#16 Crochet Butterflies in Cocoon

Click to learn the Crochet Butterflies in Cocoon here.

These butterflies are surrounded in little blocks. The pattern alternates, so you’ll need to pay attention to what she does on the sides. Again, this is another Spanish pattern, but you can turn on the subtitles and auto translate in the settings. I found that to be super helpful. Also pay attention to how she makes the butterfly wings, they look like clusters, but they’re not made like how you normally would. 

#17 Crochet Butterfly Stitch Diagram

Click to learn the Crochet Butterfly Stitch Diagram

This pattern is actually a diagram of a butterfly stitch variant. You will be making treble crochet clusters to make the top wings. In this pattern, the butterfly’s top wings are slightly longer than the bottom. These butterflies also stack, so only two rows repeat!

#18 Crochet Butterfly Stitch by Miles Crochet Creation

Click to learn the Crochet Butterfly Stitch by Miles Crochet Creation here.

This is another take on a lacy butterfly pattern. The chain 4s make up the wings of these butterflies, plus they are stacked, so the repeat is simple. 

#19 3D Crochet Butterflies

Click to learn the 3D Crochet Butterflies here.

The 3D Crochet Butterflies is very similar to #10 on our list, but instead of the butterflies being stacked closely and alternating, they are on top of each other and spaced out a little more. The repeat is just two rows, again, it’s easy to memorize. You’ll be making a 6 yarn over puff stitch for the butterfly wings and then yarning over and pulling through 2 loops each time. 

#20 Butterfly Lace Stitch by Fiber Spider

Click to learn the Butterfly Lace Stitch by Fiber Spider here.

The Butterfly Lace Stitch by Fiber Spider works up quickly, and is a very openwork fabric. The butterflies are separated by shells. The pattern is stacked on top of each other as well, so it’s an easy repeat.

#21 Flutter-By Curtain Ties

Click to learn the Flutter-By Curtain Ties here.

The Flutter-By Curtain Ties is a butterfly stitch that is best used as a cord, but I could see this being used as a border or as a decorative banner. You make the butterflies one by one, then you can stop when you reach your desired length. 

#22 Crochet Butterfly Border

Click to learn the Crochet Butterfly Border here.

This pattern takes you to a diagram for a very cute, crochet butterfly border. I’m sorry, this diagram isn’t the best quality, but I think you can still get the idea. Start by chaining 37, turn and dc into the 5th chain. You can follow along pretty well, when you get to the side with the butterfly wings, just slip stitch until you reach the chain 2. 

#23 Buttersquares Crochet Pattern

Click to learn the Buttersquares Crochet Pattern

The Buttersquares Crochet Pattern shows off cute butterflies and mesh squares. I believe in the video, she has you make 7 chains and then make a mesh stitch on top, but I had a hard time with it, so I just did a chain 8 and everything fit just fine. Despite that, it is a very interesting take on a crochet butterfly stitch!

#24 Butterfly Squares Afghan 

Click to learn the Butterfly Squares Afghan here.

Here’s a pattern I’ve been looking for all over! The Butterfly Squares Afghan is similar to previous Butterfly Stitches in this list (single crocheting over a number of previous chains), however the butterfly sticks out and creates a bit of texture in the fabric. Pay close attention to how she does the sides.

#25 Butterfly Garden Square

Click to learn the Butterfly Garden Square here.

This is a fun, 11 round square with little, lacy butterflies throughout. It is similar to some of the other butterfly stitches in this list, but you work in the round instead of back and forth. Although this is only 11 rounds, it is possible to modify this pattern and continue the butterfly pattern to make a larger square. Or make a few of these squares and sew them into a pretty blanket!

Alright, that’s all for our list 25 Amazingly Beautiful Butterfly Crochet Stitch Ideas. I hope you found a pattern that will help you get inspired for your own crochet project!

Until next time!

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Incredibly Gorgeous Crochet Animal Crossing Doily

Hi everyone, today we will be learning how to crochet this beautiful Crochet Animal Crossing Doily!

Who can forget the iconic leaf logo from Animal Crossing? Not me! 

I have loved Animal Crossing for a long time. My first game was actually Animal Crossing Wild World on the DS back in the day, but I quickly fell in love and grabbed the original game on the GameCube too.

Since I’ve enjoyed Animal Crossing so much, I thought I’d give it a fun little tribute and make a doily from the leaf that appears when you grab items.

I’m making this doily in a very similar way as my Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily as well, so you should totally check it out!

The center piece of the doily is actually just filet crochet, and then I’ve added a cute little border around it.

If you don’t know what filet crochet is, boy you are missing out! You can make almost any image you want doing this technique, it just takes a little time to get the dimensions right.

If you know how to read a crochet chart, I have one provided below.

It’s honestly super tedious to write out patterns for filet crochet and it’s a lot easier just to look at a chart. However, I am writing how to get you started on the doily and how to do the border.

I have also learned that making crochet charts/diagrams is still super hard, this time I tried my best to free hand the pattern in Procreate, but sheesh it was still hard! So I apologize in advance, my double crochets sort of run together, but I think you can get the gist of it!

Please note that some of these links in this post may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Blocking 

I definitely recommend blocking this doily and literally all doilies you ever crochet. They tend to look scrunched up and don’t sit very flat after you’re done making them.

If you’re going to make these beauties, I strongly suggest soaking them in water, patting them gently with a towel, stretching it on a blocking board and anchoring it down with pins.

Okay let’s go ahead and get started! 👇

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Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl st – slip stitch 
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Stitches:

  • 3dc Cluster – (YO (yarn over), insert hook into st, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops x3 times), should have 4 loops left on hook, YO, pull through all 4 loops.
  • X Stitch – skip 2 sts, dc into next st, going behind the st just made, skip a st, dc into the next
  • Ch 3 Picot – ch 3, sl st into the top of last st made

Special Instructions:

  • The starting ch 4s all count as a dc and ch 1 for the leaf pattern in the center.
  • I will be referring to open squares and closed squares throughout this pattern. An open square consists of a block of: (dc, ch 1, dc) and a closed squares consists of a block of (3dc). These are filet crochet terms that make it easier to count rather than counting each individual stitch.

Crochet Animal Crossing Doily Pattern

I have two charts to look at as a reference. The first one has the border included and the second one is just the leaf in a simple grid chart.

I thought maybe the top chart with the border might be hard to read in the middle, so I wanted to provided a second option. 

For the green leaf chart, each white square is an open square and each green square is a closed square.

Row 1: Start by making 69 chains.

Dc into 7th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next ch.* Repeat from *to* until end. You should have 32 “open” squares in this row.

Row 2-4: Ch 4, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch and dc into next dc all the way across. 32 open squares.

Row 5: We will start to make the bottom of the leaf in this row. I am starting by reading the chart from the right side to the left, you can do either way, but make sure the leaf is facing the correct way when you get to the border.

Ch 4, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next dc…do this for a total of 14 squares. Dc into next ch 1 space, dc into next dc (this is one closed square made) make 6 more closed squares for a total of 7 closed squares in this row. Make 11 more open squares for the remainder of row. 

Row 6-32: Follow the chart(s) until you reach the border.

Border:

Round 1: Ch 4, make open squares until first corner (you should have a dc in the top of the 3rd ch from previous row here). (Ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in the same ch. This makes a corner of 3 dc separated by ch 1s. Turn down the side of the doily, ch 1, skip length of ch 3, dc in dc from row 31, ch 1, skip length of dc, dc into top of ch 3. Continue making open squares down the side. The second corner should be in the last ch of row 1. (Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in this ch. Refer to chart for details. Sl st to top of starting ch 1. (34 open squares on each side)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same ch, sc into each dc and ch 1 space across. When you get to the center dc of the first corner (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in center dc. Continue this way around. Sl st to starting sc. (71 sc on each side with ch 2 space in corners)

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), instead of going forward, go behind and dc into the sc st away from starting ch. Going forward, skip 2 sts, dc into next st, ch 1, turn behind, skip a st, dc into next st. This is an X stitch. Continue X stitches across, (dc, ch 2, dc) into ch 2 corner space. Sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (23 X stitches on each side with (dc, ch 2, dc) corners)

Round 4: Ch 1, sc into same ch. Ch 1, *skip ch 1 space, sc into next 2 dc.* Repeat from *to.* in corners make ch 3 over ch 2 space. Sl st into first sc.

Round 5: Sl st again into ch 1 space. Ch 1, sc into ch 1 space. *(Ch 2, skip 2 sc, sc into next ch 1 space x2 times). Skip 2 sc, in next ch 1 space make 7 dc (first shell made). Skip 2 sc, sc in next ch 1 space.* Repeat from *to* until corner. Make 9 dc in ch 3 corner space. Skip 2 sc, sc into next ch 1 space. Continue this way around. Sl st into starting sc. (5 7dc shells on each side with 9dc shells in corner).

Round 6: Sl st again into ch 2 space. Ch 2, sc into next ch 2 space. *In shell from previous row, make dc in first dc, ch 1, dc into next dc (make total of 7dc and 6 ch 1s). Sc into next ch 2 space, ch 2, sc into next ch 2 space.* Repeat from *to.* until corner. Make corner in similar fashion to other shells (8 dc and 8 ch 1s). Continue around. Sl st into starting sc.

Round 7: Ch 1, sl st again into ch 2 space. In first ch 1 space of next shell make 3 dc cluster. Ch 3, sl st into top of 3 dc cluster (ch 3 picot made). (Ch 2, 3dc cluster, ch 3 picot in top of cluster in each ch 1 space of shell, should have 6 3dc clusters with 6 ch 3 picots separated by ch 2s). Sc into next ch 2 space. Continue across make corners in similar fashion to previous shells. Sl st to starting sc.

Cut thread with scissors, pull through. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking, Optional But Recommended:

I suggest blocking your Crochet Animal Crossing Doily. I used just water, but if you want it stiff, use a starch solution.

You will need a bowl of water, a towel, pins, and something to block it on. I use this blocking board, but you can use a pizza box or a cardboard box that is large enough.

Soak the doily in the bowl of water for a minute. Gently press it down to get all the air out of the thread. 

Pick the doily up out of the water and pat it gently with the towel. Do not wring the water out. 

Place the doily on your blocking board or Cardboard box and pin as evenly as possible. Allow to dry for 1-2 days.

That’s it for the Crochet Animal Crossing Doily! I hope that you enjoyed this pattern and that the chars were helpful.

Until next time.

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17 Crochet Heart Stitch Ideas You Will Love!

Hello everyone, today I have a list of 17 Crochet Heart Stitch Ideas that I hope you will enjoy.

If you’re like me, sometimes you need to add a little cuteness or a girly touch to a crochet project, and these heart shaped crochet stitches are just the thing!

These crochet heart stitches look just like hearts when they’re made. They’re not heart patterns or heart appliques. These are mainly for working up fabrics, so things like baby blankets, table runners, scarves, sweaters, hats, etc.

Today I’m using a variety of yarn colors from Hobbii’s Rainbow Color Pack. They sell bags with a collection of 10 different yarns that come in really pretty color palettes. I’m using Pack #8, the one with pink/purple yarn colors and Pack #3, the one with different shades of blue in today’s post.

However! You can choose whatever yarn and hook suits your project best!

I’ve scoured the internet to find some of the best crochet heart stitch ideas for your next project, so let’s go ahead and jump into this list of 17 Crochet Heart Stitch Ideas that you will love!

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Please note that some of the links in this post may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

# 1 Crochet Heart Stitch Blanket

Click to learn the Crochet Heart Stitch Blanket here.

The first up on our list of Crochet Heart Stitches, is a pattern from @ayseninorguleri. This is a video tutorial, and although there is no voice over, you can clearly see where she’s putting her stitches. You’ll be making a repeat of 5+4 chains, single crocheting back into the foundation chains and then the hearts are made up of 4 loop puff stitches, separated by chains. 

#2 Crochet Heart Stitch

Click to learn the Crochet Heart Stitch here.

This Crochet Heart Stitch should be worked up with at least two different colors to get the heart shapes to really pop. The link above takes you to the crochet diagram (which I used), however if you watch the video available on the page…it’s a totally different type of heart stitch! It’s confusing, but this one turned out really great with using different shades of the purple yarn. Just make sure to scroll down towards the bottom of the page here.

#3 Punto Cuore Stitch

Click to learn the Punto Cuore Stitch here.

This lacy crochet heart stitch works up beautifully! This link will take you to a diagram of the pattern and there’s a video tutorial on the page. You may have to have google translate that page for you, as it is in Italian, but that didn’t stop me from making this lovely, openwork heart stitch!

#4 Heart Cloth With 6 Smaller Hearts

Click to learn the Heart Cloth With 6 Smaller Hearts here.

So this is actually a filet crochet pattern that creates 6 heart shapes in the fabric. The creator has a couple of diagrams for different styles of heart layouts you could do instead of the one shown in the picture above.  

#5 Heart Stitch by Dessert Blossom Crafts

Click to learn the Heart Stitch by Dessert Blossom Crafts here.

The Heart Stitch from Dessert Blossom Crafts, is an openwork and lacy pattern. You create heart shapes with a two row repeat. I found that after a couple of rows, I could remember the pattern well enough.

#6 Crochet Hearts Square Blanket by Fionitta

Click to learn the Crochet Hearts Square Blanket by Fionitta here.

This is another lace crochet heart stitch, but what’s neat about this pattern, is that it starts from the center and grows out, so this is perfect as a blanket. The heart shapes are created by making picots over a gap. I noticed that to make your hearts stand out, you need to block and pin the picots down.

#7 Tiny Hearts Crochet Pattern

Click to learn the Tiny Hearts Crochet Pattern here.

The Tiny Hearts Crochet Pattern displays cute, little hearts in an offset repeat. The design is simple and modern, making it a great choice for crochet wearables. I think this would also look really cute as a dress on a crochet doll too! You’re going to need two yarn colors for this pattern to work and also be comfortable switching between the colors throughout.

#8 Filet Crochet Hearts

Click to learn the Filet Crochet Hearts here.

This is a pretty filet crochet chart that shows off 10 open hearts with solid borders. The combination of double crochets and chains, paints a picture of the two columns of hearts. You should double check me, but I believe you’ll chain 66 and then double crochet back into the 4th chain from the hook. This is a great accent piece for a side table or a small table runner depending on the size of your yarn and hook.

#9 Crochet Modern Hearts Blanket

Click to learn the Crochet Modern Hearts Blanket here.

A great pattern from Daisy Farm Crafts, you’ll need two different yarn colors to complete this pattern. She also has you working your half double crochets between the posts (or you can think of it as completely under where you would normally place your stitches). You’ll need to be comfortable switching between colors with HDCs, which for beginners, could be tricky. 

#10 Crochet Heart Cut Outs 

Click to learn the Crochet Heart Cut Outs here. 

The Crochet Heart Cut Outs pattern is very similar to #6 on this list, but instead of starting from the center out, you chain the amount of length you need and go back and forth. Make sure you’re flipping the picots down when you double crochet back into them so that it makes the top curves for the heart shapes.

#11 Moroccan Hearts Crochet Stitch

Click to learn the Moroccan Hearts Crochet Stitch here.

The Moroccan Hearts Crochet Stitch is a geometric heart shaped stitch that is reminiscent of the Moroccan art style. I suggest using at least two yarn colors, as the color contrast is what really helps these hearts pop.

#12 Offset Hearts Stitch Pattern 

Click to learn the Offset Hearts Stitch Pattern here.

This crochet heart stitch pattern is composed of a series of V stitches and double crochet cluster “V” stitches. These cluster V stitches create the heart shape in this pattern. You can do this with one solid color, but the pattern looks a lot better with at least two different yarn colors.

#13 Granny Heart Stitch

Click to learn the Granny Heart Stitch here.

The Granny Heart Stitch is a fun and simple take on a heart stitch with stitches that would traditionally make up a granny square. You’ll also need to contrasting yarn colors, or else this pattern will not work well. She says to start with a foundation chain of granny stitches, but doesn’t specify how many chains. I found it helpful to chain a repeat if 3+2, turn and make a single crochet in the 2nd chain from the hook, and then make a foundation row of all single crochets. After that I followed the instructions for this pattern.

#14 Heart Stitch by My Picot

Click to learn the Heart Stitch by MyPicot here.

The Heart Stitch from My Picot is a really interesting 3d stitch. Your hearts will sit on top of the fabric as you crochet along. After the first row, you’ll alternate between rows of just double crochets or rows of double crochets with the heart shape and also pinning the hearts from previous rows.

#15 Crochet Puff Stitch Hearts

Click to learn the Crochet Puff Stitch Hearts here.

This is an elegant, lacy stitch with little puff stitch hearts throughout. The repeat in this one is fairly simple, the hearts are offset in pattern, so you’ll need to pay attention to the edges as you go along.

#16 Heart Zig Zag Stitch

Click to learn the Heart Zig Zag Stitch here.

The Heart Zig Zag Stitch is a unique crochet pattern where if you use two or more yarn colors, your zig zags will appear as hearts! This pattern uses front post double crochets to separate the hearts from each other.

#17 Crochet Heart Wave Stitch

Click to learn the Crochet Wave Stitch here.

The Crochet Heart Wave Stitch creates wavy, lacy hearts using shell stitches. It looks great in one color or multicolors. On your first row, make sure you’re paying extra attention to the number of chains you are crocheting back into. When you make the shells in the first row, it can kind of hide the next chain! 

That’s it for this list of 17 Crochet Heart Stitch Ideas! I hope you found a stitch pattern that will get you inspired for your next project!

Until next time.

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