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Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

by strommercrafts / November 10, 2023

Hello everyone, today I’m excited to present my latest crochet pattern, the “Gothic Crochet Table Runner.”

If you’re looking to add a bit of gothic decor to your home, you’ll absolutely love this pattern! The black yarn and the lacy design will transform your dining or coffee table into a statement piece, plus you can tell all your guests you made it yourself! Talk about impressive.

The center of the table runner was inspired by the Gothic Crochet Stitch by astra.lebedeva2019 on Instagram. I loved the way these diamonds are created in that pattern, however for the tiny crochet thread we will be using, I wanted to make the diamonds look more lacy and a little thicker.

This is a beautiful crochet table runner pattern, created with black crochet thread, however, it is another crochet pattern that takes time to complete and it is designed with crocheter’s who have an intermediate to advanced skill set.

I didn’t time myself, and I’m a busy mom of little kids, so you’ll probably get it finished faster than me! If I had to guess, this probably took me a month to finish, of inconsistently crocheting 1-2 hours every day. Your time may vary obviously!

I’ve adjusted the pattern instructions to allow you to make your table runner as long as you want. I don’t recommend making the short side longer than what I’ve described below, I think it makes the table runner look too wide on that side.

But seriously, look at how pretty this thing is!

Now as a reminder, I try my best to make pattern instructions accurate, but I AM just a mom who likes to crochet, so please let me know if you see any errors by commenting below.

With all that, let’s get started on this Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern!

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

1.65 mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Classic Black Crochet Thread, Size 10, 300 Yards x 3 (or more as needed)
Stitch Markers (optional but highly encouraged)
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Pins (optional)
Blocking Boards (optional)

Abbreviations Used:

St(s) – stitch(es)
Ch(s) – chain(s)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Fpdc – front post double crochet
Trc – treble crochet

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch – YO (yarn over), insert hook into designated st/space, pull up a loop x 5 times (11 loops on your hook), YO, pull through all but the last loop (2 loops on your hook), YO, pull through last 2 loops.

Triangle Increase/Decrease – I will discuss these two stitches in detail below. Essentially, this is a group of trcs/dcs that create the top or bottom part of our diamonds.

Special Instructions:

I do not have st counts at the end of the rows. This is to allow you freedom to make your table runner as long or short as you’d like.
Instructions in () are grouped this way to make it easier to read and is usually written this way to indicate a series of sts made in the same st.
There is a bit of math we will have to do later, but don’t worry, I will walk you through it as we get to those spots in the pattern.

Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

Ch 53

Row 1: *YO twice, insert into 8th ch from hook, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (5 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (6 loops on your hook).

YO, pull through 4 loops, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through 2 loops again. This is your triangle decrease stitch.

Ch 2, skip 2 chs, trc into next ch, ch 1, dc into the first two “loops” in the leg of the trc you just crocheted (see pic below), ch 1, dc into same space, ch 1, dc into same space again. This is your triangle increase stitch.

Ch 2, skip 2 chs*, repeat from *to* trc into the last ch (4 triangle decreases and 3 triangle increases)

Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as a trc and ch 2), turn, for this row, we will be making triangle decrease stitches on top of the previous row’s triangle increase stitches and vice versa.

The last stitch from row 1 should have been a triangle decrease stitch, so for row 2, we will begin with a triangle increase stitch.

Skip the next ch 2 space, make a trc, but place it under the next stitch (not into it as you normally would). I find it helpful to think of this space as the “neck” of the last row’s triangle decrease stitch. Just find a space to insert your hook into the neck and trc there. If you trc into the stitch normally, the diamonds we are trying to create will look off-center. See pic below for a visual on the placement.

Triangle increase stitch as you did in row 1. Ch 2, now we will make a triangle decrease into the next triangle increase. Make a triangle decrease stitch as we did in row 1, using only the dcs and trc sts and skipping the ch 1 spaces between.

If crocheted correctly, this will give us our first diamond shape.

Ch 2 and repeat these two stitches with a ch 2 between each triangle increase and decrease After the last ch 2, finish your row by skipping 2 chs and trc into the next ch.

Row 3: Ch 6, turn, the first st below should be a triangle increase stitch, so we will begin with a triangle decrease stitch. ch 2, and triangle increase into the next triangle decrease like we did in row 2. There is no difference in this row compared to row 2, other than starting with a different triangle stitch.

Repeat Rows 2-3 until you reach 62 rows or increase the length with a repeat of 12 rows, do not cut yarn.

Border:

Now we will be creating the border around our length of lacy diamonds. We need to do a few simple rows of sc around to create a nice, thick line, a few rows of mesh squares, and then we’ll finish with an intricate pattern consisting of a variety of stitches.

***Important note on length adjustments***

The last row of our scs border needs to follow a repeat of 27+24 sc (do not count the corner sts). We will be doing 3 rows total of sc. For each row, the sc will increase by two.

So, for example, on the short side of our rectangle, we need to have a total of 47 sc on the first row. This will increase to 49 sc on the next row, and then to 51 sc on the last row. 27+24 = 51 sc.

This is where stitch markers come in handy on the long side to help you count. Just make a series of 27 sc and make sure that you can fit 24 more on the very last row of sc (row 3).

It seems like a lot, but this is the only way your beautiful border is going to fit. Avoid the headache later by getting the math right early, because we both know that we don’t have the time or patience to frog everything :).

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into the same st, ch 1 (place a stitch marker here to help identify the corners later, otherwise just pray you can find it later lol), sc again into the same st. Now turning down the side, we will be placing a series of 3 sc into the sides of either the turning chs or the trcs from the previous rows.

The last sc you made counts as part of that series of 3, so place 2 more sc into the side of the trc. See pic for a better visual below.

You will have to skip a ch when you reach the starting chs, and that is ok.

When you get close to the next corner, I found it easier to count 2 chs away from the triangle increase/decrease from the starting row and placing my corner st of (sc, ch 1, place a stitch marker, sc) into the next ch away.

Now going down the next side (this should be the underside of our starting ch), place 1 sc into each ch 2 space, 1 sc into each of the bottoms of the 4 trc that make up the triangle decrease, 1 sc into each ch 2 space, and then 1 sc into the bottom of the triangle increase. Continue this way until you reach the next corner (the 3rd ch after you make 2 sc in the last ch 2 space) and (sc, ch 1, place a stitch marker, sc) in the same ch.

***Make sure you have the same number of sts on each side***

Continue making sc around the next side and creating another corner st of (sc, ch 1, sc).

Once you get back to the top of your work, sc into each st, but skip the ch 1s in the triangle increase stitches (it looks too wavy if you do).

Sl st to first sc.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, (sc, ch 1, place st marker, sc) into next ch 1 space, then make 1 sc in each st across (try not to skip the st right after you finish your corner st, sometimes it gets a little hidden). Continue making sc and your corners in this fashion. Sl st to first sc.

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, sc in next st, make a corner st in the next ch 1 space (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue making sc and corner sts as you did in row 2. Sl st to first sc.

***Take the time here to double check your st counts , remember, your last row needs to have a repeat of 27+24 not including the ch 1 corners. If you need to, it’s ok to add or skip scs to achieve the repeat formula.***

Now we will be making our mesh square rows.

Row 4: Sl st into next few sts until you reach the corner ch 1 space, sl st into the ch 1 space, ch 8 (counts as dc and ch 5), dc in same space, *ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st* repeat from *to* all the way around. (dc, ch 5, dc) in the next ch 1 corner spaces. Sl st to top of 3rd ch of our starting ch 8.

***For my short side, I have 13 mesh squares and on my long side I have 58 mesh squares (not including the ch 5 corners) Your long side number may be different if you increased or decreased the length.***

Row 5: Ch 5, (counts as dc and ch 2), (dc, ch 5, dc) in next ch 5 corner space. *Ch 2, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* around, making (dc, ch 5, dc) in the ch 5 corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd st of starting ch 5.

Row 6: Ch 5, dc in next dc, ch 2, (dc, ch 5, dc), *ch 2, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* around, making (dc, ch 5, dc) in the ch 5 corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd st of starting ch 5.

***Go ahead and stop again, let’s count our mesh squares. Our last row of mesh squares needs to follow a repeat formula of 9+8 squares, not including the corners. I have 17 squares on my short side and 62 squares on my long side. Your border will not fit if we don’t follow this formula.***

Row 7: Sl st in each ch and st until you reach the first corner and sl st into the ch 5 space.

(Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in same ch 5 space. Ch 4, *skip over next dc and ch 2, skip over next dc and ch 2 again, sc into next dc (should be the 3rd dc away from the corner space), [skip ch 2 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next dc, skip ch 2 space, sc in next dc] x 2 times, ch 4, skip the next 2 mesh squares, in the next square, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc), ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until you reach the next corner space, skip over last two mesh squares, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch 5, 3dc) in the same ch 5 corner space. Continue this way until you reach the beginning ch, sl st into top of starting ch 3.

Row 8: Ch 3, (fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc), ch 4, skip ch 4 and next 3 dc,

*sc in ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, and place (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next sc (between the two shells), skip 3 dc and sc in ch 1 space, ch 4, skip 3 dc and ch 4, (dc in first dc, fpdc in next dc, dc in last dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around middle dc, and dc around last dc), ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until next corner space and (dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc) in the corner. Continue this way until you reach the beginning ch, sl st into top of starting ch 3.

Row 9: Ch 3 (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 5,

*skip to ch 2 space, (2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc) in ch 2 space, ch 5, skip 3 dc, skip sc and skip ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 5.*

Repeat from *to* until you reach the corners, (dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 5, skip to ch 2 space, (2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc) in corner spaces.

Continue this way until you reach beginning ch 3. Sl st to top of ch 3.

Row 10: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5*, dc in the 4th ch away in next ch 4, dc in next dc, dc in fpdc, ch 5, dc in same st, dc in next fpdc, dc in 1st ch in next 4 ch.

Repeat from *to,* dc in next dc, fpdc in fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 6,

**skip ch 5, skip first ch 4 “loop,” sc in middle ch 4 “loop,” ch 6, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 6.**

Repeat from **to** until corner spaces, (dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5*, dc in the 4th ch away in next ch 4, dc in next dc, dc in fpdc, ch 5, dc in same st, dc in next fpdc, dc in 1st ch in next 4 ch.

Repeat from *to,* dc in next dc, fpdc in fpdc, dc in next dc) in corner spaces. Continue this way until you reach the beginning, sl st to top of starting ch 3.

Row 11: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 11, skip over ch 5, skip the set of ch 4 loops, skip next ch 5, and dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc*, ch 5, puff st in next ch 5 space, ch 5, puff st in same space, ch 5, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc. Repeat from *to* once more.)

**Ch 4, puff st in 6th ch in next ch 6, ch 3, skip next sc, puff st in 1st ch of next ch 6, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc**, repeat from *to* once more, repeat from **to.**

Continue this way until next corner space, ch 4, dc in next dc and repeat instructions in () for the next corner. Sl st to top of beginning ch 3.

Row 12: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 dc in 5th ch away, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, skip next 3 dc, skip 1st ch 5 space, puff st in next ch 5 space, ch 3, puff st in same space, ch 3, puff st in same space again, ch 4, skip next ch 5, skip next 3 dc, 2 dc in 5th ch, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc),

*ch 4, puff st in ch 3 space, ch 3, puff st in same st, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 dc in 5th ch away, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc.*

Repeat from *to* until next corner space, dc in next dc, repeat instructions in () for corners. Continue this way until beginning and sl st into top of starting ch 3.

Row 13: Sl st into next 2 dc, sl st into next 4 chs, sl st into dc, [ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, skip ch 4, puff st into next ch 3 space, ch 3, puff st in same space, ch 9, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in next ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in next 3 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc],

ch 4, *skip ch 4, skip next 3 dc, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in ch 3 space, ch 4, skip ch 4, skip 3 dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until corner spaces, (puff st, ch 3, puff st), in ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, repeat instructions in [ ] for corners. Continue this way until beginning and sl st into starting ch 3.

Row 14: Sl st into next 2 dc, sl st into ch 9 space, ch 3, **(ch 1, dc x 8 times [you should have 9 dc]), ch 2, skip 3 dc and sc into ch 4 space, ch 5, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) into next ch 3 space, (ch 3, puff st x 3 times [3 puff sts total]) in ch 9 space, ch 3, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in ch 3 space, ch 5,**

*sc into ch 4 space, ch 2, skip 3 dc, (dc, ch 1 x 8 times) in ch 9 space, 1 more dc into same ch 9 space, ch 2, skip 3 dc, sc into ch 4 space, ch 5 (puff st, ch 3, puff st) into ch 3 space, ch 5.*

Repeat from *to* until the next corner, skip 3 dc, dc into ch 9 space, repeat from **to** for corners. Sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

Row 15: Ch 7 (counts as trc and ch 3), 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, **(trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made x3 times), trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made, ch 3, sl st into same trc, ch 3, 2 dc into same trc again, (trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made x 3 times), trc in last dc, (you should have 9 trc and 9 “tags”) ch 2**

Skip ch 2, skip ch 5, *(puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) into next ch 3 space, (ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1)*

Skip next ch 3 space, repeat from *to* twice more, skip next ch 3 space (puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) in next ch 3 space. (You should have a total of 8 puff sts and 7 “tags” between the puff sts), ch 2, skip ch 5 space skip ch 2 space, trc into first dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made,

Repeat from **to,** skip ch 2, skip ch 5, (puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) in next ch 3 space, ch 2, skip ch 5, skip ch 2, trc in first dc, repeat from **to** again.

Continue this way around until next corner, ch 2, trc into first dc and repeat from beginning for the corners. Sl st to 4th ch in starting ch 7.

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

CONGRATULATIONS!! You made it!!

Blocking:

To block your gothic crochet table runner, soak it in a large bowl of water for 1-2 minutes. Gently squeeze out the excess water.

Now, you can be fancy and use puzzle blocking boards to help you pin your table runner in place. These are great because you can make them as long and wide as you want (great for long crochet projects).

Or you can place it on a large towel/layer a few towels together, then pin it through the towels.

Leave it to dry for at least 24 hours.

Thank you for checking out the Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern. I hope that yours turned out beautifully! If you have questions or if you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Until next time!

32 Crochet Memes for Chaotic People

by strommercrafts / September 21, 2023

Are you a chaotic person? Do you love crochet? How about memes? Well all of your wildest fantasies are about to come true, because today I have 32 crochet memes for chaotic people.

Every one of these memes has been created by yours truly, and I hope they give you a big dose of relatable humor.

Enjoy 🙂

1.

Me, every time someone asks me what I’m “knitting.” IT’S CROCHET!

2.

Why can’t it be free!? Just kidding, I understand why people sell their crochet patterns…but STILL.

3.

There’s a reason I’m quietly crocheting, I’m literally reciting the crochet pattern almost constantly lol. Gotta stay in the zone.

4.

Maybe not every day, but I can’t tell you how many times I’ve started a crochet pattern just to get bored or too frustrated and quit. But then I see another pattern and rinse and repeat.

5.

This is truly a chaotic crochet method. You ever get so far into a pattern, and you don’t have the correct number of stitches anymore because you were too lazy to put in your stitch markers? Well I have, and I’ve also said heck with it and kept going. It’ll work out, right?

7.

Frantically searching for the starting strand of your new yarn skein may be chaotic in itself, but I’m SICK OF DOING IT. Those easy start tags should be on every skein or ball of yarn, change my mind.

7.

For real though, people who post awesome crochet patterns for free are the real MVP’s.

8.

Do you like dark souls and crochet? Here’s a crochet dark souls accent pillow I made a while back. I still laugh when I see it!

Crocheting is how I feel better, what about you? Forget the work, stress, and anxieties of the day with a little yarn therapy!

9.

No, no I will not take a break. I want my blanket finished NOW.

10.

I can’t be the only one, right? This crochet meme really speaks to me! But once you figure out how to read one, they are like total game changers.

Plus they’re great if you are looking for a pattern that’s only in a different language (I’m looking at all you Russian doily makers out there, those crochet doilies are 🔥)

Speaking of doilies, check out my list of beautifully gothic crochet doilies in this post. They’re black AND lacy AND awesome.

11.

It’s true, I feel amazing once that crochet blanket I’ve worked on tirelessly gets long enough to cover my legs. It feels like I’ve actually done something for once lol.

12.

This one is for my fellow crochet pattern creators. I’m not the best at math, and it’s weird because I’ll just go and start making whatever because I feel impatient, but in reality it would really save me time if I would just sit down and do the math!

Although to be fair, my children often distract me and I have to redo A LOT.

13.

Crochet is my LIFE. Or at least a favorite hobby of mine lol. What about you? Without crochet are you nothing??

Crochet and frogs…what a great combination. You can enjoy the same combination with this fun crochet frog bucket hat pattern.

14.

Seriously! Sometimes that yarn looks so nice too. Then you start to crochet with it and your hook will grab only a few of the strands instead of all of them..so frustrating! OR when you inevitably make a mistake and need to frog your work and the freakin yarn twists on itself and makes knots.

15.

I will never make one of these again lol. If you don’t know what this blanket it is, just a quick Google search will show you this long and complex crochet blanket. I did learn a lot of interesting stitches doing it though.

16.

Literally me. When I think, I just start getting sad and mad…good thing there’s crochet! Crocheting just melts all those bad thoughts away. Can’t be sad when you don’t have time to think about it.

17.

Okay I used to be this way, but I’ve learned to do a magic ring or a magic circle, whatever you want to call it.

It’s really difficult to learn at first (at least I thought it was), so I opted for the good ol’ chain 2 and crocheting into the first chain.

18.

Man, I hate when this happens. I’m chugging along and I crochet a couple of rows, only to find that when I lay it down to admire my work, I made a mistake hours ago. Sometimes I contemplate whether I should just keep going, frog it and fix it, or give up on the whole thing.

I guess I should count my stitches each row…but I also DON’T WANT TO. It’s quite the predicament.

19.

Sometimes it just makes more sense to buy a blanket for 20 bucks at the store than it is to spend 50 dollars on yarn to crochet a blanket that may or may not get done this year. When I actually do the math, sometimes it makes me sad.

20.

Or have I???

21.

In case anyone needs ideas on what to get me for Christmas 🙂

22.

I can’t be the only one can I? A lot of crochet ideas and patterns have gone unfinished during my time. Or many of them got played with and lost (looking at you kids!).

23.

This is truly a chaotic crochet meme! Just go in there and get what you want boo! Rent can wait.

24.

Sorry, it’s not my fault, the snail told me to do it. This is what I say to myself as I add my new skein to my 5,000 other skeins.

25.

Honestly, this happens so often that I either only crochet when they’re asleep, or I have to use a stitch marker every 25 stitches lol!

26.

This is more specific to me, as this was literally what inspired me to get into crochet. Of course beginner me wanted to crochet and AMIGURUMI project that was mostly in BLACK. Needless to say, it turn out to be an abomination.

27.

Is this true for you? It used to be for me! It’s actually not too bad when you’re used to it. If you need help, check out my tips for crocheting with black yarn.

28.

For real! Drugs are bad, crochet is good!

29.

I would be so rich if this was the case!

30.

Okay another oddly specific meme, but this is me like every other grocery store run. I can hear my husband shaking his head already.

31.

32.

I hope you enjoyed these 32 memes for chaotic people! Let me know which ones you like best!

Patterns

Gothic Crochet Pattern – Black Coasters!

by strommercrafts / August 22, 2023

Have you been looking for a gothic crochet pattern, but maybe can’t find a simple or practical one? Well fellow goth crocheters, you can rejoice! Today I have for you; a gothic crochet coaster pattern!

Do you like the gothic aesthetic? Maybe you simply love crocheting with black yarn? Or maybe you hate yourself enough to not only try crocheting with black yarn but…*gasp* TINY black yarn (I’m only kidding, but kinda not really ;)).

For this gothic crochet coaster pattern, I’m using Fashion Crochet Thread from Red Heart. I had a hard time deciding what sort of yarn to use for this pattern. I tried using some medium 4 black acrylic yarn, but it ended up being a little too fuzzy and thick for my liking (black cotton yarn probably would have been fine, I just didn’t have any!).

The normal crochet thread I use would have taken too long to make all the puff stitches, but this fashion thread is JUST the right thickness to make this coaster.

Skill Level Needed:

I’m just going to say that this black crochet coaster is for an intermediate skilled crochet or one that is willing to learn how to 1) crochet in the round and 2) learn how to crochet puff stitches.

I’ve used a magic circle to start this coaster, but you can also simply chain 2 and crochet into the first chain.

Puff Stitches: The Heart of the Design

The puff stitch is the star of this pattern. Why puff stitches? Well, it’s a dense stitch that provides the perfect thickness for a crochet coaster when paired with this type of thread.

You don’t want a totally thin coaster, because if you have any spillage from sipping your favorite beverage, you want your coaster to catch it and not seep through to the table or surface you’re trying to keep nice.

How to Crochet a Puff Stitch:

Don’t know how to make a puff stitch? No problem! Let’s discuss the short and detailed version of making this stitch.

Short: Yarn over (YO) and insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop three times (7 loops on your hook) YO and pull through all 7 loops.
Detailed: Yarn over (YO), insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop, (5 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on your hook). YO one last time and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.

Try to stay consistent with how far you pull your loops up. You’ll want to pull them up high enough that you can get your hook through all loops. Too high and your puff stitch will be too loose, but if you do it too low, it’ll be too hard to pull your hook through.

With all of that in mind, let’s dive on into this lovely, gothic crochet coaster!

Size:

This coaster’s diameter is about 4.25”
Your size may vary depending on your tension.
If you use a different sized yarn or hook than I used, your final coaster may be smaller or bigger.

Materials Needed:

Red Heart Fashion Cotton Crochet Thread, Size 3, 125 yards x 1 ball (I was able to get three coasters out 1 ball)
3.5mm Crochet Hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Markers (optional)

Abbreviations Used:

St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Mc – magic circle
Ch – chain

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch – Yarn over (YO), insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop, (5 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on your hook). YO one last time and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.

Special Instructions:

The first round is started with a magic circle, alternatively you can chain 2 and crochet into the first chain.
The starting chain 1’s at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.
Many patterns will have you chain 1 after you puff stitch to “close” it…we will not be doing this. You’ll go straight into the next puff stitch from the previous one.
The number in parenthesis at the end of the round indicates how many stitches you should have.

Gothic Crochet Coaster Pattern:

Round 1: 8 puff sts in mc, sl st to first puff st (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 puff sts in every st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
- **Protip: Having a hard time seeing your stitches? Use a stitch marker after you make your first puff stitch in the round so you know where to join!**
Round 3: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next st, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 2 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 3 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 4 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 5 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

And there you have it! Enjoy your simple, functional, AND gothic crochet masterpiece! As your coaster finds its place, I hope that it brings that little bit of darkness to your surroundings you’ve been looking for ;).

Until next time!

7 Best Yarns to Use for Crochet Baskets

by strommercrafts / August 13, 2023

Hello everyone, today we are learning about the 7 best yarns to use for crochet baskets!

Crochet baskets can be nifty little storage wonders that can be practical and pretty, but before you start your project, you may be wondering, what yarn should I be using?

Picture this – you got your favorite crochet hook ready, a Pinterest worthy pattern in hand, and an imagination brimming with visions of a perfectly crocheted masterpiece. But guess what? You hit a snag (maybe literally!), and the culprit? Yup, you guessed it, your yarn isn’t holding up.

It’s bending and falling over, and doesn’t quite hold the shape of that beautiful basket you had pictured.

But worry not, I’m here to share the best yarn to avoid further crochet fiascoes!

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What to Look for When Choosing Yarn for a Crochet Basket

First, let’s consider a few things to look for in choosing the correct yarn for your crochet basket.

Durability: Let’s be real, your basket’s gonna hold stuff – maybe lots of stuff. So, pick a yarn that’s like the Hulk of fibers. Think strong, durable, and ready to handle the weight of your random things.
Stiffness: Sagging baskets? Not on your watch. Look for a yarn with a bit of stiffness, or better yet, double up on your yarn strands or look for bulky, thick yarns.
Weight: Thin and delicate or thick and chunky – it’s your choice. Match the yarn weight to the basket size you’re aiming for. Thicker, bulkier yarns are better for larger baskets that need to hold way more weight, while finer yarns work well for small, delicate baskets.
Texture: Smooth, chunky, or funky textures – the choice is yours. But remember, the texture can add character and visual appeal to your basket.
Color Options: Yarns come in all shades of pretty colors. Whether you’re into rainbow explosions or calming neutrals, pick a color that speaks to you.
Absorbency: If you plan to use the basket for holding items in moisture prone areas like the bathroom or kitchen, consider yarns that are absorbent, like cotton yarn. No one wants a soggy surprise.
Purpose: What will you use your basket for?. Will it be used as a decoration, hold delicate items, or carry heavy loads? The purpose of the basket will influence the yarn weight and fiber you should choose.
Eco-Friendliness: If you wanna show mother nature some love, consider yarns that are sourced from eco-friendly and responsible suppliers. Natural fibers like cotton, jute, and hemp are often more environmentally conscious choices.
Budget: If you’re like me, being budget-conscious is important. Consider the cost of your chosen yarn. Remember, pricier doesn’t always mean better. Balance quality with what your wallet can handle.

How to Prevent a Saggy Crochet Basket

Aside from choosing the right yarn for your basket, let’s discuss a few ways you can strengthen and prevent your basket from sagging.

Use Tight Stitches: This might seem obvious, but a lot of interesting and intricate stitches look pretty, however they may not be the best choice for a sturdy basket. Try slip stitches, single crochets, half double crochets, or a combination of the three. Avoid using chains and taller stitches like double or treble crochet stitches.
Use a Smaller Hook: Going down a hook size or two than what your yarn calls for, can help you make your stitches even tighter!
Internal Reinforcement: Try slipping in a wire or using ropes within your stitches to help reinforce the sides of the basket and have it stand tall. You can do this by literally crocheting over the wire or rope as you go. Even doubling up on your yarn strands will help.
Make a Strong Base: Start your base in a continuous round (circular or rectangular), but when you start the first round of the body of the basket, crochet in the back loop. Then you can crochet as normal for the rest of the rounds. This helps your base keep whatever shape you’re going for.
Add a Lining: Try using a lining to strengthen the sides. Use a plastic sheets (these little mesh sheets are great) or hot glue cardboard with a pretty fabric over it to the inside.
Starch or Glue: If you already made your crochet basket, try using a mixture of glue/starch and water, paint it onto the outside of your basket and place it into something that has a similar shape (like a mixing bowl or use the top of the trash can). Allow it to dry. Repeat on the inside.

Alright, with all those tips in mind, let’s check out the absolute best yarns to make your crochet basket!

7 Best Yarns to Choose for a Crochet Basket:

1) T-Shirt Yarn

T-shirt yarn is made from repurposed fabric and offers a pretty cool texture and awesome strength that can handle heavy loads. Baskets made from this type of yarn are not only very sturdy, but they are also eco-friendly, making them a great choice for environmentally-conscious crocheters.

Best T-Shirt Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Hoooked Zpagetti T-Shirt Yarn

2) Nylon Yarn

Nylon is a synthetic fabric that has a lot of strength and resilience. It’s often blended with other natural fibers like cotton or wool to help make them sturdier. Crochet baskets made with nylon yarn can also handle moisture from frequent use, which can make them great for bathroom or kitchen storage.

Best Nylon Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Bernat Maker Home Dec #5 Bulky Cotton-Nylon Yarn

3) Cotton Yarn

Cotton yarn is a classic choice for sturdy crocheted baskets. Its natural strength and ability to hold its shape makes it a perfect choice for crocheting baskets that can handle a variety of items, from small accessories to larger household essentials.

Best Cotton Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn

4) Jute Yarn

Known for its exceptional durability, jute yarn produces crochet baskets that aren’t only sturdy, but also have a charming, rustic appearance. This yarn can be blended with other fibers and is able to withstand heavier weight, which is perfect for storing toys, tools, or even firewood.

Best Jute Yarn for Crochet Baskets: HRX 5mm Jute Rope

5) Hemp Yarn

Similar to jute and cotton, hemp is an excellent choice for crocheting baskets that need to withstand wear and tear. Its resistance to stretching and shrinking will ensure that your basket will retain its shape, even with regular use.

Best Hemp Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Cousin DIY 170 lb Polished Thick Hemp Cord Twine

6) Acrylic Yarn

Acrylic yarn has a wide range of colors and is easy (and cheap) to work with. Crocheting baskets with acrylic yarn can give off vibrant hues, making it a good choice for organizing children’s toys or other school supplies. I would suggest crocheting with bulky acrylic yarn and crocheting your stitches tightly.

Best Acrylic Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Lion Brand Hometown Super Bulky Acrylic Yarn

7) Wool Yarn

Wool yarn produces baskets with a cozy feel and excellent insulation properties. These is a great choice for storing cold-weather items like gloves, hats, and scarves.

Best Wool Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Valley Yarns Amherst Worsted Weight Yarn, 100% Wool

So there you have it, yarn lovers! Armed with this info, I hope you’re ready to rock your crochet game and whip up some functional and stylish baskets with these types of yarn.

And remember, with the right yarn, your baskets will be the talk of the town (or living room at least!)

Until next time!

Crochet Blissful Bookmark – Free Pattern

by strommercrafts / July 11, 2023

Hello everyone! Today I have a wonderful crochet pattern for you. I’m calling this the Blissful Crochet Bookmark pattern! It’s a beautiful and functional crochet pattern.

If you’re a book lover like me, you know the joy you feel when reading a good story. And what better way to mark your place than with a handmade crochet bookmark! Or better yet, gift it to a friend who loves books!

I’m also so in love with the color of the crochet threads I’ve used for this bookmark. The purple color is called Antique from Artiste and wow, it really does have a vintage-inspired hue, giving any crochet project an elegant and nostalgic touch. The tan one is Natural from Red Heart.

I couldn’t decide which color I liked best, so I’m including them both.

Feel free to use any color yarn you’d like, just make sure you’re using a size 10 yarn, or your bookmark might end up being too large or small. Size 10 yarn or smaller is the perfect sized yarn for any crochet bookmark.

We’ll be crocheting on the underside of the starting chain, forming a long oval shape. When you get to the end of the row, we’ll add a few stitches to help round out the edge and then continue crocheting in the underside.

I recommend blocking your bookmark when you are finished. Without blocking, your bookmark will curl a little bit. I like to block my crochet projects by soaking it in water, patting it dry and then pinning it to a mat (or a pizza box works great too). You can add starch to make it stiff if you’d like as well.

Related Posts:

Grim Reader Crochet Bookmark

I hope you all enjoy the Blissful Crochet Bookmark pattern! As always, I try my best to accurately count stitches, if you see a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Materials Used:

Red Heart Classic Natural Cotton Yarn, 1000 Yds Size 10 x 1 skein OR
Antique Artiste Cotton Crochet Thread, 350 Yds, Size 10 x 1 skein
1.65 mm Crochet Hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet

Special Instructions:

The starting chain 1s do not count as a stitch
The numbers in parentheses at the end of each row signifies how many stitches or types of stitches you should have.
I have used parentheses for certain stitches that are repeated to make it visually easier to read.

Crochet Blissful Bookmark Pattern:

Ch 54

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into each ch across, 3 total sc in last ch, turning down the underside of the ch, 1 sc into each ch across, 1 sc in last ch, sl st into first st (108 sts)
Row 2: ch 1, sc in same st as joining st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, *(ch 3, skip a st, 1 sc in next st) x3 times total, 1 sc in next 3 sts.* Repeat from *to* 5 times. (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 2 times total. 1 sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from *to* 5 times once more. 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sl st into first sc (82 sc, 30 ch 3 spaces)
Row 3: sl st into next 3 sts, ch 1, sc in same st,*ch 5, skip over next 4 sts, 1 sc in 1st ch 3 space, (ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space) x2 times.* Repeat from *to* until last ch 3 space has been sc into, **ch 5, skip 4 sts, 1 sc into next st, ch 9, skip 5 sts,** 1 sc into next st. Repeat from *to* once more. Repeat from **to,** sl st into first sc. (34 sc, 2 ch 9 spaces, 12 ch 5 spaces, 24 ch 3 spaces)
Row 4: ch 1, sc in same st as joining st, *9 dc in next ch 5 space, 1 sc in next ch 3 space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to,* until last ch 3 space sc into, **9 dc in next ch 5 space, 1 sc in next sc, 12 dc in ch 9 space**, 1 sc in next sc. Repeat from *to* once more, until last ch 3 space sc into. Repeat from **to,** sl st to first sc. (24 sc, 10 ch 3 spaces, 114 dc)

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in end with tapestry needle.

That’s it! What do you think about the Blissful Crochet Bookmark? I hope your bookmarks turned out beautifully!

Until next time!

Free Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth Pattern

by strommercrafts / July 3, 2023

Hello everyone! Today I have a lovely crochet burp cloth pattern available for you! These burp cloths are made with the ever-popular Peaches and Creme cotton yarn. I honestly think they look so bright and clean!

Make These For A Wonderful Handmade Gift!

Aside from making these for yourself, this can be a thoughtful gift that can be given to a variety of individuals or institutions. Here are some ideas of who would appreciate receiving these crochet burp cloths as a gift:

Expectant or New Parents – Gifting crochet burp cloths to expectant or new parents can be a wonderful gesture. They’re a practical item for newborns and the fact that it’s handmade adds a personal and heartfelt element to the gift (I’ve almost cried over handmade gifts given for my babies because they were so thoughtful…darn hormones!).
Baby Showers and Gift Exchanges – If you’re invited to a baby shower or participating in a gift exchange, and have the crochet skills, these burp cloths can be an excellent choice. Your handmade gift will be unique, as no one can find one in stores, and hopefully new parents will appreciate the practicality and charm of it!

Churches, Charitable Organizations or Hospitals – If you enjoy crocheting for a cause, consider donating your handmade crochet burp cloths to a church, charitable organizations or local hospitals. Many organizations support families in need and your beautiful gift can provide comfort and absorbency to babies from these families. I worked at a hospital that accepted crochet donations (blankets, hats, and bereavement items for stillborns).

Why Cotton Yarn is a Good Choice for a Burp Cloth:

Feel free to use any yarn you’d like, as long as it’s #4 worsted weight (medium) yarn. If you use a different weight, your burp cloth may become too big or small! I also like using cotton yarn instead of acrylic yarn .

You can use acrylic, but it’s not very absorbent, and you should try to soften it up before using it on a baby’s delicate skin.

Here are a few reasons why cotton yarn is a good choice for this crochet project:

Softness against baby’s skin – Cotton is renowned for its exceptional softness, making it a great choice for crocheted baby items. You want material that is gentle and non-irritating during use.
Absorbency – One of the primary uses for a burp cloth is to absorb spit-ups, drool, and other small spills. Cotton yarn excels in this aspect as it has excellent absorbent properties. The natural fibers in cotton can hold up to 27 times its own weight, making it readily able to soak up spills to keep you, and baby, dry and clean.
Breathability – Cotton is a breathable material, allowing air to circulate freely through the fabric. This can help prevent your baby from overheating. The breathability of cotton ensures that the moisture absorbed by the burp cloth evaporates quickly, reducing the chances of discomfort or rashes from trapped moisture.
Easy to clean – Babies are notorious for creating messes, and burp cloths are no exception. Choosing a material that is easy to clean is essential. Cotton yarn is machine washable, making it a convenient choice for busy parents. Simply toss the burp cloths into a washing machine, and they will come out fresh and clean, ready to be used again.
Durability – Burp cloths undergo frequent washing and heavy use, so durability is an important factor to consider. Cotton yarn is known for its strength and longevity, the natural fibers make it highly resilient and able to withstand repeated washing and drying.

This Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth is designed to be beginner-friendly, making it accessible to both seasoned crocheters and those that are new. With just a few basic stitches, you’ll be able to whip up these beautiful burp cloths in no time!

We’ll be using a stitch pattern called the Suzette Stitch today. The suzette stitch combines single and double crochet stitches in a simple, but unique way to achieve its distinct texture. The alternating single and double crochets create a balanced pattern that is visually appealing and functional, and the subtle texture provides a gentle surface that can help catch and absorb liquids.

Here’s a close up of the texture we’ll be making in each color:

Alright, let’s grab our hooks and our favorite colored Peaches and Creme colors and dive on in!

Materials Needed:

5mm/H Crochet Hook
Peaches and Creme Cotton Yarn in Royal 120 Yards x 1 Ball
Peaches and Creme Cotton Yarn in Mint 120 Yards x 1 Ball
Peaches and Creme Cotton Yarn in Ecru 120 Yards x 1 Ball
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

Ch – chain
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet

Size:

7 in x 17 in (this will vary depending on your tension)

Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth Pattern:

Ch 21

Row 1: Make 1 sc into second ch from hook, 1 dc into the same ch, *skip 1 ch, (1 sc and 1 dc) into next ch* repeat from *to.* Your last ch should end up with a (1 sc and 1 dc) worked into it. (20 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, *skip 1 st and work (1 sc and 1 dc) into the next st (this should be the sc from the previous row)*. Repeat from *to* (20 sts)

Row 3-46: Repeat Row 2.

Border: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each st across, 2 sc in last st (the corner), turning down the long side of the burp cloth, sc all the way to the next corner. I found that placing 2 sc into each leg or “bump” of the dc, then skipping the ch 1’s gave the cleanest edge. 2 sc in next corner st. Continue until last st, sl st into first st.

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in ends with tapestry needle.

That’s all! Thank you for checking out this Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth pattern! I hope that you love these as much as I do!

Until next time!

30 Minimalist Crochet Stitches to Try for a Polished Look

by strommercrafts / June 24, 2023

Hello everyone, today I’m introducing a collection of 30 crochet stitches that can be used to create minimalist decor. If you’re craving a little bit of simplicity and elegance, look no further! I hope these crochet stitches inspire you to create wonderfully minimalist designs.

One thing I’ve noticed is that texture plays a crucial role in minimalist decor, as it adds interest and visual appeal to a space. Since minimalism is often associated with simplicity and a reduced color palette, texture becomes even more significant to help create contrast and tactile interest within the limited design elements.

Most of the stitches below provide some level of texture throughout the pattern.

17 Crochet Stitches that Look Like Flowers

What Colors Should I Use?

The yarn I’m using today is Peaches and Creme in Ecru with a 5mm/H crochet hook. All the stitches below are crocheted with this size and color.

In minimalist decor, the color palette is intentionally kept simple and restrained to create a clean, and harmonious environment. Here are some common yarn colors you can use to achieve a minimalist aesthetic in crochet:

White: The quintessential color of minimalism, it embodies purity, simplicity and a sense of spaciousness. You truly can’t go wrong with the classic color of white.
Neutrals: Neutrals such as beige, cream, gray, and taupe are great color choices to use with minimalist decor.
Black: You can use black yarn to help accent your minimalist space by adding contrast and a touch of sophistication. Black yarn can be somewhat difficult to see, if you need help, check out my post on 12 Game Changing Tips on Crocheting with Black Yarn.
Earth Tones: Minimalist decor can also embrace natural and organic elements. Earth tones like brown, green, and warm grays can bring a little bit of warmth and connection to nature.
Pastels: Soft, muted shades of pastels can be used to add a splash of color without overpowering the simplicity of minimalist design. Try using soft blues, blush pinks, and pale mint greens.

What Sort of Minimalist Crochet Projects Should I Make?

Here are a few ideas for crochet projects that can help complete a minimalist space:

Pillows: Crochet pillows in solid colors can add texture and comfort in your seating areas. Stick with a limited color palette and opt for simple stitch patterns.
Throw Blankets: Create lightweight crochet throw blankets in neutral colors to add warmth and texture to your living space.
Wall Hangings: Make simple, but elegant wall hangings using neutral colored yarns. Try using geometric shapes or clean lines to complement the minimalist aesthetic.
Plant Hangers: Craft crochet plant hangers by using natural colored yarns to showcase your greenery in a sophisticated way.
Table Mats or Coasters: Design crochet table mats or coasters in neutral shades of monochromatic tones. Use colors that complement your interior furniture.
Storage Baskets: Make minimalist inspired storage baskets with sturdy yarn like cotton or jute. Use thick and sturdy stitch patterns to make functional storage solutions.

What Sort of Stitches Should I Use?

It’s best to use stitch patterns that achieve a clean and simple look if you’re going for the minimalist aesthetics.

It honestly depends on what your project is, if you’re making blankets for example, try stitches that aren’t too stiff and feel squishy to the touch. Or if you’re making storage baskets or coasters, you’ll want to use thick and stiff stitches.

Alright, let’s dive on in! I hope you enjoy these 30 different crochet stitches you can use to help you achieve a minimalist look to your home!

1. Single, Half Double and Double Crochets

Learn how to crochet Single, Half Double and Double crochet stitches here.

Single, half double, and double crochet stitches are essential building blocks for creating a minimalist aesthetic in your crochet projects. Not only is making these types of stitches easy, but they have a clean and simple appearance. The single crochet stitch creates a tight and compact fabric with a sleek look.

The half double crochet stitch offers a little bit more height than the single crochet, which also adds a touch of drape while maintaining the same neat appearance.

Lastly the double crochet stitch adds much more height and versatility, creating a looser and more open fabric.

Combine these stitches or use them on their own!

2. Moss Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Moss Stitch here.

The moss stitch, also known as the linen stitch, is a popular crochet stitch that is perfect for capturing that minimalist vibe. This is another easy stitch that creates fabric with a subtle textured appearance, similar to woven linen. It is achieved by alternating single crochets and chain stitches, creating a pattern that looks like tiny, uniform squares or checks.

3. Mesh Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Mesh Stitch here.

The mesh stitch is an airy crochet stitch that lends itself wonderfully to a minimalist aesthetic. This stitch is similar to the moss stitch by working a combination of single crochets and chains, but placing your single crochets in the previous row’s single crochets instead of the chain spaces. The mesh stitch creates a mesh-like appearance of evenly spaced and interconnected gaps. The clean lines and simplicity makes it perfect for minimalist designs.

4. Staggered Double Crochet Pairs Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Staggered Double Crochet Pairs Stitch here.

The staggered double crochet pairs stitch is an easy, lacy pattern that alternates double crochets together in a staggered fashion, separated by chain ones. This creates an open and light texture.

5. Extended Single Crochet

Learn how to crochet the Single Crochet here.

The extended single crochet offers a modern twist to the traditional single crochet. The stitch adds extra height to the stitch, resulting in a slightly taller, and more open fabric than a normal single crochet.

6. Trinity Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Trinity Stitch here.

The trinity stitch is an elegant and visually appealing crochet stitch that adds a little texture and dimension to your projects. The trinity stitch forms a series of triangular clusters that resembles interconnected petals. This is an excellent choice for minimalist designs where one color is being used.

7. Crunch Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Crunch Stitch here.

The crunch stitch is a stitch that provides a unique, “crunchy” texture and is a great choice for functional minimalist design (dishcloths for example). This stitch is achieved by working alternating single crochets and slip stitches. The result is a crunchy or bumpy texture while maintaining a clean and simplistic appearance.

8. Suzette Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Suzette Stitch here.

The suzette stitch is a simple and elegant stitch which is great for achieving a minimalist aesthetic. This stitch alternates single and double crochets in the same space, and creates a gentle, ribbed texture without being too overpowering to your overall design.

9. Cluster Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Cluster Stitch here.

The cluster stitch is created by working a set of stitches (typically double or treble crochets) into the same stitch or space and then completing them together. This technique results in a “cluster” or stitches joined at the top, forming a slightly raised and compact motif.

10. Spider Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Spider Stitch here.

The spider stitch gets its interesting name from the way the stitch looks in rows. It appears as if a nimble little spider is scurrying across the fabric. You can achieve this look by simply single crocheting, chain 1, and single crocheting again in the same stitch, and then skipping a few stitches.

11. Wattle Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Wattle Stitch here.

The wattle stitch is very similar to the spider stitch, in that you crochet your stitches in the same space. However, you incorporate the use of a double crochet, which pulls the stitches over more, creating a “wattling” appearance. This is seen more distinctly if using different colored yarn throughout the project.

Here are a few crochet patterns that utilize the wattle stitch:

12. Linked Double Crochet Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Linked Double Crochet Stitch here.

The linked double crochet stitch is perfect for minimalist crochet projects. The stitch creates clean lines with little to no gap between the stitches. To make this stitch, you insert your hook into the “horizontal bar” of the previous stitch instead of the usual top loops. Doing this allows the stitches to be linked together, creating a seamless look.

13. Simple Compress Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Simple Compress Stitch here.

The simple compress stitch is a simple, yet impactful crochet stitch that involves single crocheting two stitches together with a chain one in between.

14. Mayberry Stitch

Learn the Mayberry Stitch here.

The mayberry stitch is a fun stitch pattern that alternates between two different rows. In one row, you half double crochet two in one stitch and then skip a stitch. In the next row, you’ll switch to single crochets and bobbles. The contrast between the taller and shorter stitches, along with the texture of the bobbles creates a charming look.

15. Sprig Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Sprig Stitch here.

The sprig stitch resembles small peaks or sprigs popping up from the top of the fabric. This stitch is achieved by working 2 single crochets, a chain 2, and 2 more single crochets all in the same stitch. The peaks created by the stitch adds some interest to the fabric without being too over the top or busy.

16. Alpine Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Alpine Stitch here.

The alpine stitch is a stitch that when worked, looks like a rugged and mountainous landscape . The texture is similar to the ridges and peaks of a mountain and is achieved by working front post double crochets.

17. Smock Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Smock Stitch here.

The smock stitch is an elegant stitch that requires a crochet hook that is straight and without grips, allowing for smooth and uninterrupted stitching. To work this stitch, you must be familiar with tunisian crochet, which is a type of crochet style that incorporates many loops on the hook at once. The pattern looks like smocked fabric or a honeycomb when completed. The clean and geometric lines lend themselves well to modern and minimalist design aesthetics.

18. Waffle Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Waffle Stitch here.

The waffle stitch is a textured stitch resembling the pattern of a waffle.The stitch is made by alternating between double crochets and front post double crochets. This creates a series of raised squares or “waffles” on the surface of the fabric.

19. Seed Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Seed Stitch here.

The seed stitch is another simple, but beautiful pattern that creates a slightly textured fabric, resembling tiny, scattered seeds. This is achieved by alternating single crochets and double crochets. The combination of stitches creates a balanced texture and adds interest to your work.

20. Cobblestone Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Cobblestone Stitch here.

The cobblestone stitch is a pattern that creates another textured fabric with raised, rounded bumps, reminiscent of cobblestones. This one is very similar to how the seed stitch is worked, however instead of using single crochets and double crochets, the cobblestone stitch uses single crochets and treble crochets.

21. Iris Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Iris Stitch here.

The iris stitch is a lacy crochet stitch that features a total of four double crochets separated by a chain one in the middle. This is a simple, yet effective combination that creates a delicate and airy texture.

22. Rice Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Rice Stitch here.

The rice stitch utilizes front post and back post double crochets in an alternating fashion to create a pattern that looks like grains of rice. This stitch is a great choice for minimalist decor due to its straight lines throughout.

23. Relief Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Relief Stitch here.

The relief stitch is a tight and thick stitch that results in a dense and sturdy fabric, suitable for minimalist-inspired items. The stitch is made by simultaneously working single crochets in the back loops of the top row and the horizontal bar of the previous row. The tightness of the stitch creates a crisp look, adding a modern touch to your crochet creations.

24. Raspberry Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Raspberry Stitch here.

The raspberry stitch is another simple stitch that alternates between single crochets and front post single crochets. The front post crochets provide a subtle and raised texture, resembling little berries in this pattern.

25. Camel Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Camel Stitch here.

This camel stitch is a unique stitch that creates a raised, knit-like texture on the fabric. The stitch is created by inserting the crochet hook into the horizontal bar or third loop on the back of the stitch instead of the typical top loops. Since the stitch mimics the look of knitted fabric, it is a great alternative to those crocheters who aren’t familiar or don’t have the means to knit. This stitch has a sleek and contemporary appearance, making it a great choice for minimalist decor.

26. Diamond Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Diamond Stitch here.

The diamond stitch is a textured stitch pattern that creates the appearance or diamond shapes or lattices. Front post treble crochets are worked around the post of the indicated stitches in the previous rows. The diamond shapes create a structured and geometric look, which is ideal for those seeking a clean and stylish design.

27. Fisherman’s Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Fisherman’s Stitch here.

The Fisherman’s Stitch is another stitch that looks like knitted fabric. This stitch is made by working slip stitches into the back loops of the previous row and is a great choice for those who want the aesthetics of knitting but prefer working with a crochet hook. The horizontal ribbed effect is an excellent choice for minimalist design in crochet.

28. Forked Cluster Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Forked Cluster Stitch here.

The forked cluster stitch is a crochet stitch that creates a thick, forked appearance. It’s achieved by yarning over and pulling up loops in the next two stitches, followed by pulling the yarn through three loops instead of the usual two. This is a beautiful textured stitch and ideal for projects where you want to showcase the stitch.

29. Bead Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Bead Stitch here.

The bead stitch is a stitch that appears exactly as the name implies. It is an interesting technique that forms this stitch, as a puff stitch is worked around the post of each double crochet. The bead stitch adds just the right amount of visual appeal without making your design too overstimulating.

30. Bean Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Bean Stitch here.

The bean stitch is a fun stitch that creates a series of raised loops that resembles coffee beans. This stitch provides a cozy and plush feel to a variety of crochet projects and if worked in a neutral color, will be a great addition to minimalist decor.

And that’s all I have today! I hope you enjoyed this collection of stitches and that they have inspired you to achieve the minimalist look you are going for!

Until next time!

The Grim Reader: A Crochet Bookmark Pattern

by strommercrafts / June 14, 2023

Hello everyone! Today I have an exciting treat for all the bookworms and crochet enthusiasts out there. I’m thrilled to present my latest creation: The Grim Reader Bookmark. That pun made me laugh, so I had to use it to name this pattern.

This crochet skull bookmark combines lace and literature with a touch of quirky charm. If you’re a fan of spooky tales, a lover of Gothic literature, or simply appreciate unique and eye-catching crochet bookmarks, this pattern is sure to get you inspired.

The Grim Reader Bookmark will serve as a companion for all your reading adventures and is suitable for both beginner and experienced crocheters.

I’ve used white and black crochet thread for this pattern, but I encourage you to experiment with different colors to customize your skull bookmark according to your style and preferences.

Not only is this a fun and Gothic project for yourself, the Grim Reader also makes for a fantastic gift for fellow book lovers, teachers, librarians, or anyone who appreciates the charm of handmade bookmarks. Pair it with a book that exudes those dark academia vibes and you’ve got the best night in!

Check out the pattern below!

Which one do you think looks better? I honestly like them both, but feel free to expand out and use any yarn color you like!

Size:

After blocking, the bookmark is roughly 2.5in x 7.5 in

Materials Needed:

1.65 mm crochet hook
Red Heart White Crochet Thread Cotton Yarn Size 10 x 1 skein OR
Red Heart Black Crochet Thread Cotton Yarn Size 10 x 1 skein
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Cardboard box or a Blocking Board (optional)
Pins (optional)

Abbreviations Used:

St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl St – slip stitch
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Dc – double crochet

Special Instructions:

The starting ch 2 is not considered a st.
The number in () indicates how many sts you should have at then end, including the chs.

The Grim Reader Bookmark Pattern:

Ch 20

Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in each ch across (18 sts)
Row 2: Turn, ch 2 (starting ch does not count as hdc for this Row or for the rest of the pattern), 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip 3 sts, 1 hdc in next st, ch 7, skip 6 sts, 1 hdc in next st, ch 4, skip 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
Row 3: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 7 dc in ch 7 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
Row 4: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space) and 1 sc in 1st dc, ch 7, skip next 5 sts, sc in last dc, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
Row 5: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc, 7 sc in ch 7 space, 1 sc in next sc, ch 2, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (23 sts)
Row 6: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space), 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 2 space, hdc, and ch 2 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (21 sts)
Row 7: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 1, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 1, 1 hdc in 1st sc, ch 7, sc in ch 1 space, ch 7, 1 hdc in last sc, ch 1, 1 hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 1 sts (27 sts)
Row 8: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), 1 sc in next hdc, 7 sc in 1st ch 7 space, 7 sc in 2nd ch 7 space, 1 sc in next hdc, ch 2, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (24 sts)
Row 9: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in next 6 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
Row 10: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 1, hdc in ch 2 space, ch 1, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in next 10 sts, skip last sc, ch 1, hdc in ch 2 space, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
Row 11: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), skip next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 4, skip over next (ch 1 space, hdc, ch 1 space), 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
Row 12: Turn, ch 2 1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, hdc in ch 4 space, ch 3, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in next 4 sts, ch 3, skip last sc, hdc in ch 4 space, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
Row 13: Turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in ch 2 space, 1 hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in ch 3 space, ch 6, skip next 4 sts, 2 hdc in ch 3 space, 1 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in ch 2 space, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (18 sts)
Row 14: Turn ch 2, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 6 hdc in ch 6 space, 1 hdc in next 6 sts (18 sts)

Repeat Rows 1-14 two more times for a total of 3 skull motifs.

DO NOT CUT YARN.

Border: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, sc again in same st, going down the side of the bookmark, sc into the top of each hdc and the “leg” of each hdc. (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner st. I had 63 sts down each long side, and 18 sts on the short side, not including the two corner sts. Join with a sl st in ch 1 space.

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Blocking: This is an optional step, but I recommend blocking your bookmark after weaving in your ends. I like to soak my projects in water for about a minute, then dry it with a towel by gently patting it dry (don’t wring it out), and pinning it to a pizza or a cardboard box to dry. To make the bookmark straight, mark with a ruler a few lines to help you when you pin.

You can use this blocking board from Boye, it’s awesome because you can interlock them, so if you need a bigger area to block you can customize your space, AND it has lines already on it.

I hope that the Grim Reader bookmark will add a touch of macabre charm during your reading adventures, and be a reminder that crochet and books can intertwine in wonderful ways!

Thanks for reading, until next time!

30 Beautifully Delicate Crochet Snowflakes

by strommercrafts / June 7, 2023

While the summer brings its scorching heat, why not find solace in the frosty beauty of these delicate and lacy snowflakes?

In this post, you’ll find a collection of 30 Beautifully Delicate Crochet Snowflakes, and the best part, is that they’re all free! So grab your crochet hook and pour yourself some iced tea, because these crochet snowflake patterns will help you beat the heat!

Click the pictures to reach the free patterns.

#1 Wispweave Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

A Snowflake for Bunny is a 7 round, 6 pointed snowflake. The last row is very interesting, as you’ll be making chains and slip stitching into those chains to create those icy points.

#28 Absaroka Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

The Absaroka Snowflake is yet another delicate, lacy pattern. I love the way this one looks, however the author’s pattern instructions get a little confusing at the last round. I had to look at her picture and make adjustments. (I think she may have omitted the first couple of stitches to start the round before the repeat).

#29 Big Wet Heavy Snowflake

WRITTEN PATERN

The Big Wet Heavy Snowflake really does look as its name implies. The long chains in the last few rows gives this snowflake an interesting look.

#30 Blue River Snowflake

WRITTEN PATTERN

The Blue River Snowflake has big lacy holes that create a truly beautiful snowflake. This is only a 4 round snowflake and has an interesting way of starting the first round.

I hope you’ve found some inspiration in these 30 Beautifully Delicate Crochet Snowflake Patterns. Each creation is a testament to the artistry of crochet, plus they’re fun to make! Embrace the magic of winter even in the midst of summer!

Until next time!

Crochet Articles

Crochet and Chill: 12 Ways Crochet Can Help with Stress and Anxiety

by strommercrafts / May 15, 2023

In today’s fast-paced and stressful world, finding moments of calm and respite is essential for our well-being. Thankfully crochet offers a sanctuary of relaxation, creativity, and tranquility that can melt away stress and anxiety.

In this blog post, we’ll explore 12 ways in which crochet can become a trusted companion on the journey to inner peace. From the relaxing, rhythmic motion of making stitches, to having a sense of productivity, each aspect of crochet holds the potential to nurture your mind, body, and soul.

#1 Mindfulness and Relaxation.

Crocheting provides a focused and repetitive activity that can promote mindfulness and relaxation. The rhythmic motions of crochet can help calm the mind and reduce the production and release of stress hormones such as cortisol and adrenaline. As these stress hormones decrease, the body can reach a state of relaxation..

#2 Stress Relief.

Engaging in crochet allows you to shift your focus away from stressful thoughts and worries. Concentrating on the stitches and patterns can provide a welcome distraction and help alleviate anxiety. The repetitive movements in crochet have also been found to activate the parasympathetic nervous system, which is responsible for promoting relaxation and reducing stress. This can result in physical changes, such as lower heart rate, decreased blood pressure, and an overall sense of calmness.

#3 Creativity and Expression.

Crocheting offers a creative outlet where you can express yourself through color choices, stitch combinations, and pattern modifications. This creative process can be empowering and provide a sense of accomplishment and joy.

#4 Sense of Productivity.

Completing crochet projects gives a sense of productivity and achievement. Seeing tangible results from your efforts can boost self-esteem and create a positive mindset. With each stitch, row or round completed, you can see your project take shape and evolve into something beautiful.

#5 Sensory Stimulation.

The tactile experience of working with yarn and feeling the textures can be soothing and comforting. The softness and texture of the yarn, and the repetitive motion of crocheting provides a calming effect similar to other forms of repetitive activities like coloring or knitting.

#6 Mindful Breathing.

Crocheting can be combined with mindful breathing exercises to further enhance relaxation. Focus on your breath as you work on each stitch, taking slow, deep breaths, and allowing yourself to fully immerse in the present moment. Deep, slow breathing is associated with the activation of the parasympathetic nervous system, shifting the body into a state of calmness.

#7 Social Connection.

Crocheting can be a social activity, whether through joining crochet groups and forums, attending classes, or sharing your projects online. Engaging with a community of like-minded individuals can reduce feelings of isolation and provide support and encouragement.

#8 Emotional Outlet.

Crocheting can serve as an emotional outlet, allowing you to channel and process your emotions through the act of creating something beautiful. It provides a healthy way to express and release feelings of sadness, stress, and anxiety.

#9 Portable and Convenient.

Crocheting is a portable and convenient hobby that can be done almost anywhere. You can easily pack your yarn, hooks, and other tools into a bag or pouch, making it easy to take to work, during commutes, or while waiting for appointments. This flexibility allows you to engage in crochet during moments of stress or anxiety, providing an instant source of comfort.

#10 Mindful Focus.

The repetitive nature of crochet encourages focused attention on the task at hand. As you concentrate on each stitch, your mind becomes absorbed in the present moment, allowing you to let go of all the worries or stressors that may be occupying your thoughts.

#11 Dopamine Release.

Engaging in the rhythmic motion of crochet can also stimulate the release of dopamine, a neurotransmitter that is associated with pleasure and reward. This can contribute to a feeling of relaxation, contentment, and even a sense of achievement when you complete crochet projects.

#12 It’s Fun.

Crochet can be fun and full of delightful surprises. From watching your project grow and evolve, to discovering new and beautiful ways to add color and interesting stitches, each step can be a fun way to spend your time. Plus knowing that your creation is a one-of-a-kind labor of love can bring an unparalleled sense of joy and fulfillment.

I hope you’re feeling inspired and ready to embrace the therapeutic power of this beloved craft.

Remember, that the benefits of crochet go beyond the finished project. It’s the process itself that brings a sense of peace and restoration.

So make time for yourself, create a cozy space, and allow crochet to become your refuge-a place where you can unwind and let go of all your worries.

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7 Best Yarns to Choose for a Crochet Basket:

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Best T-Shirt Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Hoooked Zpagetti T-Shirt Yarn

2) Nylon Yarn

Best Nylon Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Bernat Maker Home Dec #5 Bulky Cotton-Nylon Yarn

3) Cotton Yarn

Best Cotton Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn

4) Jute Yarn

Best Jute Yarn for Crochet Baskets: HRX 5mm Jute Rope

5) Hemp Yarn

Best Hemp Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Cousin DIY 170 lb Polished Thick Hemp Cord Twine

6) Acrylic Yarn

Best Acrylic Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Lion Brand Hometown Super Bulky Acrylic Yarn

7) Wool Yarn

Best Wool Yarn for Crochet Baskets: Valley Yarns Amherst Worsted Weight Yarn, 100% Wool

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