Patterns Archives -

Wonderfully Festive Crochet Christmas Doily

by strommercrafts / November 28, 2025

Hello, everyone, today I have a new crochet doily pattern for you, the Crochet Christmas Doily!

With the Holidays coming up, I’ve been trying to come up with a few crochet Christmas gift ideas to give to family members and friends.

I enjoy crocheting with thread the most, so trying to think of gift ideas using that was kinda hard.

However, since I’ve been on a filet crochet doily kick, I thought how fun it would be to make a doily that simply says; Merry Christmas.

With doilies like this, the main function of it is to decorate tables, but I’ve seen people take it an extra step and frame this on a dark background, and then hang it on a wall.

Doilies don’t go with every interior decorating styles, but my own mom has a log cabin style home and they have a few of my doilies displayed that look absolutely fire 🔥.

I’ve decided to use a chart instead of writing out instructions for every row. With filet crochet, it’s a lot easier to just view a chart. I constantly get lost trying to read written instructions, so if you’re anything like me, you’ll like this way better.

In the chart, I’ve made the letters in a red color so they’re more visible, however, I’m crocheting with one color of thread today, but feel free to actually make the letters whatever color you wish(it’ll help them stand out more!)

I’ve made the border for the Crochet Christmas Doily in red and blue colors so you can see where the border starts more easily.

As with some of my other filet crochet doilies, you will start by chaining the length of the doily, and working back and forth in rows. Once the border is reached, you go around the outside of your rectangle, instead of back and forth.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on a link and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

How Do I Make This Doily Lay Flat? It’s All Crinkled!

With most crochet thread projects, you need to block them to force them to lay nice and flat. This is an essential step, especially if you plan on your Merry Christmas Doily being displayed where others will see it.

To block a crochet doily, I simply soak it in water and pin it on a blocking board as symmetrically as possible to dry.

If you want it flat and crispy, you’ll need to use a starch solution to spray or soak it in.

Materials Needed:

1.65mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White Size 10
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Blocking Board (or cardboard box)
Pins

Crochet Christmas Doily Pattern:

Please consult the chart below, but you will start by chaining 170, turning and making a dc into the 6th chain away from the hook.

Once finished, cut thread with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle to hide and secure them.

Blocking the Doily:

Grab your blocking board or a long enough piece of cardboard, pins, a bowl of water, and a towel.

Soak the doily in water (I use cool water but I don’t think it matters too much). Fully submerge it for 2-3 minutes, you may have to hold it down with her hand so it doesn’t float to the surface.

Pull it out and let it drip excess water back into your bowl. Place it on your towel and gently pat it dry. Do not wring the doily out.

Place the doily on your blocking board and pin it as evenly as possible on all sides.

This is where having a blocking board is king. The blocking board has grids so you can measure and pin on all sides evenly.

That’s all for this Crochet Merry Christmas Doily pattern. I hope the chart was helpful to you and that your doily brings you a little Christmas cheer this year.

Until next time.

Crochet Legend of Zelda Crest of the Sheikah Doily

by strommercrafts / November 14, 2025

Hello everyone, today I have another new crochet doily pattern for you, the Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily Crest of the Sheikah Doily.

I’ve been having too much fun making these doilies based off of my favorite video games, like this Crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Doily, my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, and my Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily.

Since I love the Legend of Zelda series, I wanted to do another tribute to one of the coolest parts of the Zelda lore.

This crochet doily features the iconic Sheikah eye that is seen throughout the history of the Legend of Zelda since Ocarina of Time. The symbol that represents the shadowy Sheikah people, is of an open eye with 3 eye lashes and a single teardrop dropping from the center of the pupil.

You’d see this symbol on stones scattered throughout Hyrule, on artifacts in certain temples, and on the Sheikah people’s clothing.

I’ve chosen a red crochet thread for the eye, but you can use any color thread you’d like, just make sure it matches the size of the background color.

I also highly suggest, like with many crochet thread projects, to block your doily so that it lays flat. I simply soak my doily in water, pat it dry with a towel and then pin it to a blocking board.

Blocking makes your doily look so much better and straighter. It’s an extra step, but it’s worth it and sometimes necessary for a clean looking final product.

How to Color Change in this Pattern

Color changing in this doily pattern can be a little tricky, but with mindfulness and practice, you can do it!

You need to put your new color thread on the hook, the stitch before the change.

Do not finish your stitch completely, place your new color thread, and THEN finish the stitch.

Here’s an example:

There may be times in the pattern that you need to change colors when you’re chaining. This one is tricky because you already have a chain/loop on the hook at all times.

Here’s an example where you need to change colors while chaining:

Materials Needed:

1.65mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White Size 10
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in Red Size 10
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Crochet Legend of Zelda – Crest of the Sheikah Doily Pattern:

Please consult the diagram below. You can click on the image to make it bigger.

To start you will chain 77.

Start with the black symbols first and then work the border around.

I hope you enjoyed this Crochet Legend of Zelda Crest of the Sheikah Doily. Now I just need to figure out which sort of doily I should do next! Another Zelda themed one? Or perhaps something entirely different?

Until next time!

Patterns

Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily

by strommercrafts / October 29, 2025

Hello everyone, today I have a new crochet doily pattern for you! It’s the Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily!

If you love playing Stardew Valley, then you’ll love making this doily with the iconic Stardrop displayed in the middle. Whenever you find one of these Stardrops in game, your character will eat it and instantly gain more energy to perform daily tasks. They’re pretty handy!

I’m including this doily in my series of video game inspired crochet patterns, this includes other doilies like, my Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily, Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, and Crochet Pokeball Doily.

You’ll need at least 4 thread colors for this pattern. I did try to make this in solid white, but I think you can tell that it’s a Stardrop in the middle much better with the colors.

Since we are color changing in this doily, there are some things you need to know before starting. Basically, you need to change your thread color the stitch prior to the actual color change. It’s tricky at first, but you’ll get the hang of it.

I’m also including a chart that I made so you can follow along better. I think written instructions can be somewhat tedious when it comes to these filet crochet doilies.

If you’re not used to reading charts, don’t worry, I have a symbol key on the side so you know what everything means!

Once finished, I highly suggest blocking your Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily. You can leave it unblocked, but crochet thread projects always look 1000% better if you do take the time to block it.

Let’s go ahead and see what we need to start this pattern below!

Materials Needed:

For Blocking:

Blocking Board (or cardboard box)
Pins
Bowl of water
Towel

Abbreviations Used:

Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Dc2tog – double crochet two together

How do I color change in this pattern?

Color changing in this doily can be a little tricky, but with mindfulness and practice, you can do it!

You need to put your new color thread on the hook, the stitch before the change.

Do not finish your stitch completely, place your new color thread, and THEN finish the stitch.

Here’s an example:

There may be times in the pattern that you need to change colors when you’re chaining. This one is tricky because you already have a chain/loop on the hook at all times.

Here are a few examples where you need to change colors while chaining:

I suggest not carrying your yarn with you as you go. With the crochet thread, you can see the color you’re trying to hide by carrying it (especially the white thread). It just makes it unpleasant to the eye.

So you have two options to deal with your multiple threads:

1) cut and weave each one in with your tapestry needle
2) keep one side ugly and never show it to the world…

It’s up to you what you want to do. There’s no judgment here!

There will be some criss-crossing of threads as you switch colors. It’s just the nature of crochet color changing. I would just be careful and untwist as you go so you don’t get a huge mess.

Alright, that’s enough of the finer details, let’s go ahead and get started on this doily!

Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily Pattern

Ch 77

Please consult the diagram for the body of the doily below.

You will start with the black stitches first, and work your way up.

Then you will work the border in the blue and red by going around the square.

Border:

Double check and make sure that you are facing the correct way before beginning. If not, just turn your work and follow along.

Round 1: ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1), skip a ch, and dc into the next ch (should be the middle ch). *Ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next ch* Repeat from *to* all the way across until the first corner.

Dc into the 3rd ch of ch 6 from previous row, ch 1, dc into same ch, ch 1, dc again into same ch.

Turn down the side, ch 1, skip ch 3 and dc into the top of the last dc in row 35. Ch 1. Skip the length of the dc you just crocheted into and dc into the top of the next starting ch 3.

Continue in this fashion, placing (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) into the corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd ch in starting ch 4.

38 squares on each side

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same joining space. Sc into each dc and ch 1 space across.

In the middle dc of the corners, make (sc, ch 2, sc), turn and continue making sc into each dc and ch 1 space.

Sl st to first st.

Round 3: Sl st into next st, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st as joining, *ch 1, skip a st, sc into next st* Repeat from *to* across. Make sure to ch 1 right before the corner spaces.

In the next corner ch 2 corner space, (sc, ch 2, sc).

Repeat from *to* down the next side.

Sl st to first st

Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 space, ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2). Dc2tog by making the first leg in the same ch 1 space as starting ch, skip next ch 1 space and place the second leg into the next ch 1 space. *Dc in same ch 1 space, ch 2, dctog with the first leg in the same ch space, skip a ch 1 space and place the second leg into the next ch 1 space.*

Repeat from *to.* until the next corner (should have 18 ch 2 spaces before the first corner).

Ch 2, dc2tog with first leg in the ch 1 space right before the ch 2 space from the previous round, place the second leg into the ch 2 corner space. Ch 3, dc into same ch 2 corner space.

Ch 2, dc2tog with first leg in ch 2 corner space, and the second leg in the next ch 1 space (it should be the one right after the ch 2 corner space)

Continue this way around.

You should have 21 ch 2 spaces on each side with ch 3s in the corners.

Sl st to 3rd ch in starting ch 5.

Round 5: Sl st into the next ch 2 space, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same ch 2 space. Ch 3, sc into same ch 2 space again, *ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) into next ch 2 space.*

Repeat from *to.*

When you get to the ch 2 space right before the ch 3 corner spaces, complete your (sc, ch 3, sc) in the ch 2 space. Ch 3 and (sc, ch 3, sc) into the ch 3 corner space.

Ch 3 and (sc, ch 3, sc) into next ch 2 space.

Continue in this fashion all the way around.

Sl st to first sc.

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in any loose ends

Blocking:

To block this doily, grab a large bowl and fill it with water. Soak the doily in the water for a few minutes (you may need to hold it down with your hand so it doesn’t float to the surface).

Once soaked, grab a towel. Pull the doily out of the bowl and place on the towel (do not wring or squeeze the doily with your hands).

Pat the doily with towel to soak up excess water.

Place the doily onto a blocking board or a piece of cardboard large enough. Pin the sides evenly with pins.

Allow the doily to air dry for 24-48 hours.

Thank you so much for trying out the Crochet Stardew Valley Stardrop Doily Pattern. I hope the diagram was helpful to you.

Until next time.

Absolutely Lovely Crochet Lace Edging

by strommercrafts / October 1, 2025

Hello everyone, today I have an Absolutely Lovely Crochet Lace Edging pattern to share with you.

This pattern is very similar to the border I used for my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily, but I’ve tweaked it just a little to make it slightly better I think.

I was inspired to create my very own crochet lace edging after hours of searching for the perfect pattern for my own project. I think this pattern works up amazingly, it’s got a nice scalloped edge with pretty, little picots.

You can use this crochet lace pattern as a way to decorate or adorn things like dresses, skirts, tablecloths, blankets, or scarves. I’ve even seen people use these to line woven baskets or jars. Really anything you can think of that you want to make look pretty!

Feel free to use any crochet yarn and hook you’d like, however if you want to make crochet lace, I suggest using crochet thread and a corresponding hook. I’m using size 10 crochet thread and a 1.65 mm crochet hook to make this beautiful pattern.

I’ve made a diagram for this pattern as well. I think the diagrams are super helpful to use as a reference. I’m still trying to get used to making them and they aren’t always perfect but I think you’ll get the idea!

I also highly suggest blocking this pattern and really anything that you crochet as lace. You can get the edging wet and then stretch and pin it onto a blocking board or a piece of cardboard.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Here are some different colors of thread I used for my edging. I like to use the classic white thread, but black can make any piece look instantly more beautiful and gothic-like. The other colors are a lot of fun too.

Alright let’s go ahead and check out the pattern below!

Materials Used:

Abbreviations Used:

St – stitch
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet

Special Stitches:

X Stitch – skip 2 sts, dc into next, ch 1, going backwards/behind the dc just made, skip a st and dc into the next. This makes the two double crochet cross each other.
3dc Cluster – make a double crochet in the designated st, but don’t finish it, make 2 more double crochet without finishing them. You should have 4 loops on your hook at this point, pull through all 4 loops.
3ch Picot – ch 3, slip stitch into the top of the previously made st (in this pattern it will be the top of the 3dc cluster)

Crochet Lace Edging Pattern

Ch a repeat of 12+3

Row 1: Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into each ch across.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, we will be making an X st now. *Skip 2 sts, dc into the next st. Ch 1, going behind the ch 1 and dc just made, skip a st and dc into the next st. Now we go back forward.* Repeat from *to* until the end, you should have 1 st left, make a dc in the last st.

Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2), turn, skip dc, sc into ch 1 space in the X st, *ch 3, skip next 2 dcs, sc into ch 1 space in the X st.* Repeat from *to.* Dc into top of ch 3 from Row 2.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, sc into same st, *ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space, 7 dc into next ch 3 space (this is a shell), sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space* Repeat from *to.* After sc into last ch 3 space, ch 3 and sc into top of ch 3 from Row 3. You should have 2 ch 3 spaces before and after each 7 dc shell, except for the beginning and end of the row, which will have 1 ch 3 space.

Row 5: Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2), turn, sc into next ch 3 space, *in the next 7 dc shell, dc into each dc with a ch 1 between each dc (7 dc with 6 ch 1s) . Sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to* After you’ve sc into the last ch 3 space, ch 2, dc into last sc from Row 4.

Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, sc into same st. *In the ch 1 space of the next shell, 3 dc cluster. (Ch 3 picot, ch 2, 3 dc cluster in next ch 1 space of shell x 5 more times, so 6 3dc clusters with picots on top total in the shell), sc into next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to.* Place last sc into the 3rd ch of Row 5s starting ch 5.

Cut thread with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking:

At this point I would try to find time to block your edging. It will make your piece look very clean and crisp.

Grab a blocking board (or cardboard), pins, a bowl of water, and a towel.

Soak your crochet lace edging in the bowl of water for a minute or two. Gently pat dry on the towel.

Place on your blocking board and pin in a straight line. Place somewhere safe to dry, take the pins out after 1-2 days or until totally dry.

That’s all for this crochet lace edging! What do you think? I hope yours turns out to be lovely!

Until next time!

Breathtakingly Nostalgic Crochet Pokeball Doily

by strommercrafts / September 14, 2025

Hello everyone! Today I have made a Breathtakingly Nostalgic Crochet Pokeball Doily to share with you.

I’ve been inspired to make doilies based off of some of my favorite video games growing up. This includes my Crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Doily and my Crochet Animal Crossing Doily!

I still remember the very first Pokemon game I played was Pokemon Ruby. I picked Mudkip as my starter and named him Bubbles. I loved that little game…but surprisingly with how many hours I put in, I never caught a dang shiny Pokemon :(.

Anyways…

This is one of my more complex designs, so I drew up a diagram to help you visualize the pattern better.

I am using a new filet crochet technique in this pattern, to make it appear a little more delicate and lacy. I think it also helps the Pokeball “pop” out more so you can see it better.

We will be coloring changing threads in this Crochet Pokeball Doily pattern. I highly suggest that you feel comfortable doing color changes with bigger yarn sizes before trying it with thread. But I understand if you want to just go for it and see what happens!

Color changing in crochet is kind of weird and I’ll explain a little better below…I hope. Essentially, you have to think ahead and attach your new color before the stitch that needs the new color.

It’s kind of like tapestry crochet, but we’re using double crochets instead of single crochets.

I also recommend blocking this doily and basically anything that you crochet with thread. It looks so much cleaner and less scrunched up. I use water to block mine, but I know other people like to use a starch solution to make it stiff.

Okay enough rambling, let’s start making your Crochet Pokeball Doily!

Materials Used:

Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White Size 10
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in Black Size 10 (the image displays the wrong size of thread, but this is the correct listing for size 10 thread…it’s confusing I know)
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread Size in Red 10
1.65mm Crochet Hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Optional – blocking board (or cardboard), pins, bowl of water and a towel

Abbreviations

St – stitch
Sl st – slip st
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
S2W – switch to white
S2B – switch to black
S2R – switch to red

About Color Changes in This Pattern

Color changes can be a little weird in crochet. You must look ahead to color change and attach your new color before you finish the current you’re on.
Sometimes you will finish a dc and sometimes you will not! It depends on whether the next st is a ch or another dc.
I don’t recommend “carrying” your last color thread with you. Since we are using dc and contrasting colors, they stick out through the fabric.
I recommend cutting your thread when starting a new color OR dropping the yarn and picking it up when you need it again and giving yourself enough line (but one side of your doily will be ugly)
See pics below for info on when to attach the new colored thread.

I’ve also made a crochet chart to go with this pattern below.

I’m still learning how to make these charts, but I think you can see the pattern much better if you don’t like written instructions.

I made the border in a red and blue color in this chart so you can see each round more clearly.

Crochet Pokeball Doily Pattern:

Ch 46

Row 1: sc into 8th ch away from hook (counts as dc and ch 2), ch 2, skip a ch, dc into next ch, *ch 2, skip a ch, sc into next ch, ch 2, skip a ch, dc into next ch.* Repeat from *to* (10 sc, 11 dc, 20 ch 2s)

Row 2: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip ch 2, skip sc, and skip next ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 3, skip ch 2, skip dc, and skip next ch 2, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* (11 dc, 10 ch 3s)

Row 3: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn sc into middle ch of previous row’s ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 2, sc into middle ch of previous row’s ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc* Repeat from *to* twice more. Ch 3, skip ch 3 space, dc into next dc, ch 3, skip ch 3 space, dc into next dc (these two open squares should be aligned right in the middle of the fabric). Repeat from *to* 4 more times. (11 dc, 8 sc, 16 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 4: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip ch 2, skip sc, skip ch 2, dc into next dc, *ch 3, skip ch 2, skip sc, skip ch 2, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* once more. Ch 2, S2B, dc into next dc (if done correctly, the white thread will have the appearance of a ch 3 not a ch 2). 3 dc into ch 3 space, dc in dc, 3 dc into ch 3 space, dc into next dc (don’t finish the final pull through, S2W). Repeat from *to* 4 more times (17 dc, 8 ch 3s)

Row 5: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc into middle ch of ch 3 space, *ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, dc into middle ch of ch 3 space, ch 2, dc into next dc,* ch 2, S2B dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc (don’t finish last pull through and S2W), dc in next 7 dc S2B, dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc S2W ch 3, dc in next dc. Repeat from *to* twice more. (23 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 6: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, (finish this last dc all the way and S2B, skip a ch, dc in 2nd and 3rd ch of ch 3 space, dc into next dc S2W, dc into next 15 dc, S2B, dc into next dc, dc into next ch and middle ch of ch 3 space (don’t finish dc all the way and S2W, ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc (27 dc, 4 ch 3s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 7: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc into middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, sc into middle ch, ch 1, S2B, dc into next dc, dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc S2W dc into next 19 dc, S2B dc in next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc into next dc S2W, ch 2, sc into middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc into next dc (29 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s)

Row 8: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, skip and dc into next dc, ch 2 S2B, skip and dc into next 3 dc, S2W, dc in next 19 dc, S2B dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc, ch 3, skip and dc into next dc (29 dc, 4 ch 3s)

Row 9: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch, ch 2, dc in next dc S2B, dc in middle and last ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, S2W, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next 5 dc, S2W, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next dc, dc in first ch of ch 3, dc in middle ch of ch 3, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 10: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc into next dc S2B, dc in next 12 dc, S2W, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 12 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc (33 dc, 2 ch 3s, w ch 1s)

Row 11: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 6 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 5 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (28 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 12: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), dc in next dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 9 dc, S2B dc in next 5 dc, S2R, dc in next 9 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (28 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch 1s)

Row 13: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2 S2B, skip 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 19 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 2 dc, skip ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 14: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 1 S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 19 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (29 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s)

Row 15: ch 5, (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc, ch 1 S2B, skip a dc, dc in next 3 dc, S2R, dc in next 15 dc, S2B, dc in next 3 dc, S2W ch 1, skip a dc, dc in next dc, ch 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (27 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 2 ch 3s, 2 ch 1s)

Row 16: ch 6, (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, S2B, skip 2 dc, dc in next 5 dc, S2R, dc in next 7 dc, S2B, dc in next 5 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 2 dc, skip ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (23 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 17: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, S2B, skip 3 dc, dc in next 9 dc, S2W, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc (17 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 18: ch 6 (counts as dc and ch), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc (11 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch 2s, 6 ch 3s)

Row 19: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in middle ch of ch 3, dc in next dc (11 dc, 6 sc, 12 ch 2s, 4 ch 3s)

Row 20 ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), turn, dc in next dc, *ch 3, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* (11 dc, 10 ch 3s)

Border

Instead of going back and forth like we have with the main body of the crochet Pokeball doily, now we will crochet around our square.

Round 1: ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1) dc into the same st as the starting ch 4, ch 1, dc into same st again. This is our first corner made.

Ch 1, dc into middle ch of ch 3, *ch 1, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* until we reach the next corner. Your last dc should be placed in the 3rd ch of the previous row’s starting ch 6. From here, ch 1, dc into same ch, ch 1, dc into same ch again.

As you can see, our corners will be a combination of (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same corner st.

Turning down the first side of our doily, ch 1, skip the rest of the ch 3 you just made your corner in and dc into the top of row 19’s dc. Ch 1, skip the length of the rest of that dc and dc into the 3rd ch of row 18. Repeat dc and ch 1s down the side, see the chart as a reference. Sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

(22 “squares” on each side)

Round 2:

**Note: the ch 1 spaces before and after the middle corner dc from round 1 will have 2 sc in them, not 1. See diagram for details.

ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, 2 sc in next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) into the next dc (this should be the middle dc of round 1s corner). If you need to, place st marker in the corner ch 1 space for later. 2 sc in next ch 1 space, sc into each dc and ch 1 space across until you get to the first dc of the next corner from round 1. Place a sc in this dc, 2 dc into next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) into next dc, 2 sc into next ch 1 space.

Turn down the next side and sc into each dc and ch 1 space, make corners. Sl st to first sc.

(47 sc on each side, 4 ch 1 corner spaces)

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as a dc), (dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same st as ch 3. Ch 1, skip 3 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch 1 corner space. *Ch 1, skip 3 sc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc, ch 1, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc* Repeat from *to* until next corner.

You should have 3 sc left before the next ch 1 corner space after the last (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) shell. Ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch 1 corner space. Repeat from *to* until next corner again. Corner spaces will be (sc, ch 1, sc). Sl st to top if starting ch 3

(6 shells on each side)

Round 4: sl st into next dc, sl st into ch 1 space. Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 2 dc and sc into next ch 1 space, ch , skip 2 dc, skip next ch 1 space, skip next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch 1 corner space.

Ch 2, sc into first ch 1 space of next shell, ch 3, skip 2 dc, sc into next ch 1 space of shell, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the sc between the shells, *ch 1, sc into first ch 1 space of next shell, ch 3, skip 2 dc, sc into next ch 1 space of shell, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in sc between shells* Repeat from *to* until next corner, finish last shell with sc into first ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 2 dc, and sc in next ch 1 space of shell.

Ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) into ch 1 corner space. Repeat on sides and corners in this fashion. Sl st to starting sc

Round 5: sl st into next 2 chs, ch 1 (does not count as a st) sc into ch 3 space. Ch 1, ([dc, ch 1 x7 times], dc) in ch 3 corner space. (This corner shell should have 8 dc separated by ch 1s)

*Ch 1, sc into next ch 3 space on top of next shell, ch 1, skip next sc, skip ch 1 space, skip dc, ([dc, ch 1 x5 times], dc) into ch 1 space between the 2 dc.* Repeat from *to* until next corner, ch 1, sc into ch 3 space in last shell, ch 1, ([dc, ch 1 x7 times], dc) in next ch 3 corner space. Repeat from *to* on sides.

Sl st to starting sc. (5 smaller shells on sides, 1 larger shell in each corner).

Cut thread with scissors and pull through.

Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking:

Soak doily in cool water for a minute, gently pat dry on a towel. Using a blocking board (or piece of cardboard large enough), pin edges straight with pins. Allow to dry for about 24-48 hours.

That’s it for this Crochet Pokeball Doily Pattern! If you made it this far, thank you, I hope you enjoyed this pattern.

Until next time.

Incredibly Gorgeous Crochet Animal Crossing Doily

by strommercrafts / July 30, 2025

Hi everyone, today we will be learning how to crochet this beautiful Crochet Animal Crossing Doily!

Who can forget the iconic leaf logo from Animal Crossing? Not me!

I have loved Animal Crossing for a long time. My first game was actually Animal Crossing Wild World on the DS back in the day, but I quickly fell in love and grabbed the original game on the GameCube too.

Since I’ve enjoyed Animal Crossing so much, I thought I’d give it a fun little tribute and make a doily from the leaf that appears when you grab items.

I’m making this doily in a very similar way as my Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily as well, so you should totally check it out!

The center piece of the doily is actually just filet crochet, and then I’ve added a cute little border around it.

If you don’t know what filet crochet is, boy you are missing out! You can make almost any image you want doing this technique, it just takes a little time to get the dimensions right.

If you know how to read a crochet chart, I have one provided below.

It’s honestly super tedious to write out patterns for filet crochet and it’s a lot easier just to look at a chart. However, I am writing how to get you started on the doily and how to do the border.

I have also learned that making crochet charts/diagrams is still super hard, this time I tried my best to free hand the pattern in Procreate, but sheesh it was still hard! So I apologize in advance, my double crochets sort of run together, but I think you can get the gist of it!

Please note that some of these links in this post may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Blocking

I definitely recommend blocking this doily and literally all doilies you ever crochet. They tend to look scrunched up and don’t sit very flat after you’re done making them.

If you’re going to make these beauties, I strongly suggest soaking them in water, patting them gently with a towel, stretching it on a blocking board and anchoring it down with pins.

Okay let’s go ahead and get started! 👇

Materials Needed:

1.65mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White Size 10
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Blocking Board and Pins (optional but recommended)

Abbreviations Used:

Ch – chain
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet

Special Stitches:

3dc Cluster – (YO (yarn over), insert hook into st, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops x3 times), should have 4 loops left on hook, YO, pull through all 4 loops.
X Stitch – skip 2 sts, dc into next st, going behind the st just made, skip a st, dc into the next
Ch 3 Picot – ch 3, sl st into the top of last st made

Special Instructions:

The starting ch 4s all count as a dc and ch 1 for the leaf pattern in the center.
I will be referring to open squares and closed squares throughout this pattern. An open square consists of a block of: (dc, ch 1, dc) and a closed squares consists of a block of (3dc). These are filet crochet terms that make it easier to count rather than counting each individual stitch.

Crochet Animal Crossing Doily Pattern

I have two charts to look at as a reference. The first one has the border included and the second one is just the leaf in a simple grid chart.

I thought maybe the top chart with the border might be hard to read in the middle, so I wanted to provided a second option.

For the green leaf chart, each white square is an open square and each green square is a closed square.

Row 1: Start by making 69 chains.

Dc into 7th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next ch.* Repeat from *to* until end. You should have 32 “open” squares in this row.

Row 2-4: Ch 4, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch and dc into next dc all the way across. 32 open squares.

Row 5: We will start to make the bottom of the leaf in this row. I am starting by reading the chart from the right side to the left, you can do either way, but make sure the leaf is facing the correct way when you get to the border.

Ch 4, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next dc…do this for a total of 14 squares. Dc into next ch 1 space, dc into next dc (this is one closed square made) make 6 more closed squares for a total of 7 closed squares in this row. Make 11 more open squares for the remainder of row.

Row 6-32: Follow the chart(s) until you reach the border.

Border:

Round 1: Ch 4, make open squares until first corner (you should have a dc in the top of the 3rd ch from previous row here). (Ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in the same ch. This makes a corner of 3 dc separated by ch 1s. Turn down the side of the doily, ch 1, skip length of ch 3, dc in dc from row 31, ch 1, skip length of dc, dc into top of ch 3. Continue making open squares down the side. The second corner should be in the last ch of row 1. (Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in this ch. Refer to chart for details. Sl st to top of starting ch 1. (34 open squares on each side)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same ch, sc into each dc and ch 1 space across. When you get to the center dc of the first corner (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in center dc. Continue this way around. Sl st to starting sc. (71 sc on each side with ch 2 space in corners)

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), instead of going forward, go behind and dc into the sc st away from starting ch. Going forward, skip 2 sts, dc into next st, ch 1, turn behind, skip a st, dc into next st. This is an X stitch. Continue X stitches across, (dc, ch 2, dc) into ch 2 corner space. Sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (23 X stitches on each side with (dc, ch 2, dc) corners)

Round 4: Ch 1, sc into same ch. Ch 1, *skip ch 1 space, sc into next 2 dc.* Repeat from *to.* in corners make ch 3 over ch 2 space. Sl st into first sc.

Round 5: Sl st again into ch 1 space. Ch 1, sc into ch 1 space. *(Ch 2, skip 2 sc, sc into next ch 1 space x2 times). Skip 2 sc, in next ch 1 space make 7 dc (first shell made). Skip 2 sc, sc in next ch 1 space.* Repeat from *to* until corner. Make 9 dc in ch 3 corner space. Skip 2 sc, sc into next ch 1 space. Continue this way around. Sl st into starting sc. (5 7dc shells on each side with 9dc shells in corner).

Round 6: Sl st again into ch 2 space. Ch 2, sc into next ch 2 space. *In shell from previous row, make dc in first dc, ch 1, dc into next dc (make total of 7dc and 6 ch 1s). Sc into next ch 2 space, ch 2, sc into next ch 2 space.* Repeat from *to.* until corner. Make corner in similar fashion to other shells (8 dc and 8 ch 1s). Continue around. Sl st into starting sc.

Round 7: Ch 1, sl st again into ch 2 space. In first ch 1 space of next shell make 3 dc cluster. Ch 3, sl st into top of 3 dc cluster (ch 3 picot made). (Ch 2, 3dc cluster, ch 3 picot in top of cluster in each ch 1 space of shell, should have 6 3dc clusters with 6 ch 3 picots separated by ch 2s). Sc into next ch 2 space. Continue across make corners in similar fashion to previous shells. Sl st to starting sc.

Cut thread with scissors, pull through. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Blocking, Optional But Recommended:

I suggest blocking your Crochet Animal Crossing Doily. I used just water, but if you want it stiff, use a starch solution.

You will need a bowl of water, a towel, pins, and something to block it on. I use this blocking board, but you can use a pizza box or a cardboard box that is large enough.

Soak the doily in the bowl of water for a minute. Gently press it down to get all the air out of the thread.

Pick the doily up out of the water and pat it gently with the towel. Do not wring the water out.

Place the doily on your blocking board or Cardboard box and pin as evenly as possible. Allow to dry for 1-2 days.

That’s it for the Crochet Animal Crossing Doily! I hope that you enjoyed this pattern and that the chars were helpful.

Until next time.

Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily

by strommercrafts / February 22, 2025

Hello everyone, today I have a new crochet pattern I would like to share with you, a Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily!

I’ve been feeling nostalgic lately and although I don’t play as much as I used to, I’m still a big fan of The Legend of Zelda series. So I thought I would combine my hobby of crocheting, with my love for one of my favorite video games and created this pattern.

This pattern displays the iconic Triforce symbol inside a mesh, surrounded by a more solid border and then finished with a shell picot combo.

This doily is a small square, measuring about 7” x 7” after blocking. Perfect for displaying in a picture frame or placing under decorative pieces.

I decided to play around with this pattern using three different yarn colors. I thought a gold and a dark green would best represent the Zelda franchise, along with a classic white thread. The gold reminds me of the actual Triforce and the dark green, of the forest Link comes from (or his traditional clothes!)

Filet Crochet Technique

I am using a technique called filet crocheting. It’s a way of crocheting where you use “open” or “solid” squares to make a picture or design.

If you know how to do this technique, you can skip down to the pattern, however if you do not, no worries! I went ahead and wrote out instructions for those who are not familiar with filet crocheting. After a few rows, you will understand how this is performed easily.

You will either use a series of (dc, ch 1, skip a st, dc into the next st) to create a open square OR 3 dc in the next 3 sts to make a solid square.

That’s it, it seems easy enough, but if you are making a picture, a chart is very helpful to use to keep you on track.

I am using the free version of StitchFiddle to create a chart that has the Triforce design I want. I will have the chart below if written instructions make your head hurt (I know they hurt mine sometimes!).

What Do You Use Doilies For?

I use my doilies as decorations in the house. I typically use them underneath candles, or small centerpieces to make them feel more complete.

Placing this Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily in a picture frame and hanging it on the wall would add some cool and unique decor to your home.

You could also gift this to a family member, significant other, or friend that enjoys the game series.

Do I Need to Block This?

Yes, it is preferred to block this doily.

When you are crocheting doilies, it’s recommended to block your work when finished so it lays totally flat. Some people like to spray a starch solution on them so they are more stiff.

Here is how I block my doilies:

Get blocking board(s), pins, a bowl of water and a towel.
Place the doily in the water bowl and let it soak for a minute or two.
Take the doily out, let the water drip back in the bowl (do not wring it out), place on towel and pat it dry.
Place on blocking board and pin to size that you desire.
Let it dry for a day or two.

If you don’t have a blocking board, that is totally okay, this doily isn’t super big, so if you have a large enough piece of cardboard or even a pizza box, you can pin it on there. I’ve pinned many doilies that way and all have come out great.

Please note that some links in this post may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

1.65mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread size 10 in White
OR Artiste Cotton Crochet Thread size 10 in Gold Dust
OR Artiste Cotton Crochet Thread size 10 in Emerald
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Blocking Board or Cardboard
Pins

Abbreviations Used:

Sl st – slip stitch
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Ch 3 Picot – (ch 3, sl st into 3rd ch from hook)

Special Instructions:

Starting Ch 4s count as a dc and ch 1 unless specified otherwise.
Solid square = 3 dc in a row
Open square = dc, ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st
Instead of a stitch count for each row, I am using the number of open or solid squares you should have in ().
Some of these rows will mirror the row before it, meaning that solid squares are placed on solid squares and open squares are placed on open squares.

Here is a crochet diagram of this pattern. I made this myself in Canva and I have discovered that making diagrams/charts is extremely difficult! It’s not perfect, but those who like to see a picture of the pattern will appreciate this. The border is included as well.

Here is a chart that I used to help me make the inside of this pattern. Info for the border is found below. Yellow squares indicate a solid square and the white squares indicate an open square.

Crochet Legend of Zelda Doily Pattern

Ch 47

Row 1: Turn, dc into 7th ch from hook. Ch1, skip 1 ch, *dc into next ch, ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc into next* Repeat from *to*. The last ch should end with a dc. (21 open squares)

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, *dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc* Repeat from *to* (21 open squares)

Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, *dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc* Repeat from *to* for a total of 17 squares, you will have 2 more squares from row 2, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next, ch 1 skip ch 1, dc into last dc. (17 closed squares, 4 open squares)

Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next 35 sts, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc into next ch. (17 closed squares, 4 open squares)

Row 5: Ch 4, (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st for a total of 3 open squares, *(dc into next 14 sts for 7 solid squares)*, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc. Repeat from *to.*

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a ch, dc into next ch (14 solid squares, 7 open squares)

Row 6: Ch 4, (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x2), dc into next 14 sts, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc into next 15 sts, (ch 1 skip ch 1, dc into next dc x3 times). (14 solid squares, 7 open squares)

Row 7: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x2), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next (4 open squares made). Dc into next 10 sts, ch 1 skip a st, dc into next st, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc into next st, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (3 open squares made)

Dc into next 10 sts, ch 1 skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc x3 times) (4 open squares made)

Row 8: This row will mirror Row 7, place open squares on top of open squares and solid squares on top of solid squares.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st x3) (4 open squares made)

Dc into next 10 sts, (ch 1 skip ch 1, dc into next dc x3) (3 open squares made)

Dc into next 10 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x4) (4 open squares made)

Row 9: Ch 4, turn, skip a ch, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x3), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (5 open squares made)

dc into next 6 sts, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x3), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (5 open squares made),

dc into next 6 sts, ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x4 times) (5 open squares made). (15 open squares, 6 solid squares).

Row 10: This row will mirror Row 9. Place open squares on top of open squares and solid squares on top of solid squares.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x4) (5 open squares made)

Dc into next 6 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5) (5 open squares made)

Dc into next 6 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5) (5 open squares made) (15 open squares, 6 solid squares)

Row 11: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x4), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (6 open squares made)

Dc into next 4 sts, (dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc x5) dc into next 4 sts

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5) (6 open squares made) (12 open squares, 9 solid squares)

Row 12: This row will mirror Row 11.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5) (6 open squares made)

Dc into next 18 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x6) (6 open squares made) (12 open squares, 9 solid squares)

Row 13: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x5), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (7 open squares made)

Dc into next 14 sts

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x6) (7 open squares made) (14 open squares, 7 solid squares)

Row 14: This row will mirror Row 13.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x6) (7 open squares made)

Dc into next 14 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x7) (7 open squares made) (14 open squares, 7 solid squares)

Row 15: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x6), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (8 open squares made)

Dc in next 10 sts

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc) (8 open squares made) (16 open squares, 5 solid squares)

Row 16: This row will mirror Row 15.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x7) (8 open squares made)

Dc into next 10 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x8) (16 open squares, 5 solid squares)

Row 17: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x7), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (9 open squares)

Dc into next 6 sts

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x8) (9 open squares made) (18 open squares, 3 solid squares)

Row 18: This row will mirror Row 17

Ch 4, turn, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x8) (9 open squares)

Dc into next 6 sts

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x9) (9 open squares)

Row 19: Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x8), ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st (10 open squares)

Dc into next 2 sts

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x9) (10 open squares) (21 open squares, 1 solid square)

Row 20: This row will mirror Row 19.

Ch 4, turn, skip ch 1, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x9)

Ch 1, skip a st, dc into next st

(Ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x10) (21 open squares)

Row 21: This row will mirror row 20

Ch 4, turn, dc into next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1, dc into next dc x20) (21 open squares

Border

Row 1: We will be crocheting down the first side of the square

Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc into top of last dc crocheted in row 21. Ch 1, skip the length of the last dc in row 21, and dc into the top of the ch 3 in row 20, ch 1, skip the rest of the ch 3 from row 20 and dc into the last dc from row 19. Continue with ch 1, skipping the length of dc/ch 3, and dc into top of dc/ch3. See pic below for details.

Place last dc for this side in first ch in row 1. (Ch 1, dc into same ch x2 more times)

Ch 1, turn down the bottom side of square, skip ch, dc into same ch as next dc from row 2, ch 1, skip next ch, dc into same ch as next dc from row 2. Continue until next corner (dc ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc in next corner). Continue this way until you reach the beginning corner, place (dc, ch 1) into same space as starting ch 4, sl st to 3rd ch. (23 open squares on each side)

Row 2: ch 1, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in same st as joining st, *sc into next ch 1 space, sc into next dc* Repeat from *to* until next corner (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc), continue placing sc into each dc and ch 1 space, and making corners in the same fashion. Sl st to first sc. (49 sc down each side with ch 2 in each corner)

Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), skip a st, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 2 corner space, ch 1, skip a st (you might need to scoot your last dc over to see where the first st is), dc into next 3 sts, *ch 1, skip a st, dc into next 3 sts.* Repeat from *to* until next corner. You should have 1 st left before the next corner. (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into next ch 2 corner space.

Continue this way around, repeating from *to,* and making corners in same fashion. Place last 2 dc in the 2 sts before the starting ch, sl st into 3rd ch. (14 groups of 3 dc on each side with ch 2s in each corner)

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a st, [dc into next dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 corner space, dc into next dc], *ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc, dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* until next corner Repeat from [ to ] for the next corner spaces. Repeat from *to* for sides.

On last side, finish with ch 1 and sl st to top of starting ch 3 (15 groups of 3 dc on each side with ch 2s in each corner)

Row 5: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), skip a st, dc into next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc into next dc, ch 1, skip a st, [dc into next dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 corner space, dc into next dc], *ch 1, skip a st, dc into next dc, dc into ch 1 space, dc into next dc.* Repeat from *to* down the sides.

Repeat from [ to ] for ch 2 corner spaces. Sl st to top of starting ch 3 (16 groups of 3 dc down each side with ch 2 corner spaces)

Row 6: Sl st into next ch 1 space. Ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in same ch 1 space, skip next 3 dc, sc into next ch 1 space, skip next 3 dc, in ch 2 corner space make (5 dc, ch 3 picot 5 dc), *skip next 3 dc, sc into next ch 1 space, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space.* Repeat from *to* down the sides.

Place (5 dc, ch 3 picot, 5 dc) in ch 2 corner spaces. Sl st to first st.

Cut with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Block with pins on blocking board.

And that’s it! I hope you enjoyed this beautiful Crochet Legend of Zelda pattern. Until next time!

Other Posts You May Like:

Patterns

Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

by strommercrafts / November 10, 2023

Hello everyone, today I’m excited to present my latest crochet pattern, the “Gothic Crochet Table Runner.”

If you’re looking to add a bit of gothic decor to your home, you’ll absolutely love this pattern! The black yarn and the lacy design will transform your dining or coffee table into a statement piece, plus you can tell all your guests you made it yourself! Talk about impressive.

The center of the table runner was inspired by the Gothic Crochet Stitch by astra.lebedeva2019 on Instagram. I loved the way these diamonds are created in that pattern, however for the tiny crochet thread we will be using, I wanted to make the diamonds look more lacy and a little thicker.

This is a beautiful crochet table runner pattern, created with black crochet thread, however, it is another crochet pattern that takes time to complete and it is designed with crocheter’s who have an intermediate to advanced skill set.

I didn’t time myself, and I’m a busy mom of little kids, so you’ll probably get it finished faster than me! If I had to guess, this probably took me a month to finish, of inconsistently crocheting 1-2 hours every day. Your time may vary obviously!

I’ve adjusted the pattern instructions to allow you to make your table runner as long as you want. I don’t recommend making the short side longer than what I’ve described below, I think it makes the table runner look too wide on that side.

But seriously, look at how pretty this thing is!

Now as a reminder, I try my best to make pattern instructions accurate, but I AM just a mom who likes to crochet, so please let me know if you see any errors by commenting below.

With all that, let’s get started on this Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern!

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

1.65 mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Classic Black Crochet Thread, Size 10, 300 Yards x 3 (or more as needed)
Stitch Markers (optional but highly encouraged)
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Pins (optional)
Blocking Boards (optional)

Abbreviations Used:

St(s) – stitch(es)
Ch(s) – chain(s)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Fpdc – front post double crochet
Trc – treble crochet

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch – YO (yarn over), insert hook into designated st/space, pull up a loop x 5 times (11 loops on your hook), YO, pull through all but the last loop (2 loops on your hook), YO, pull through last 2 loops.

Triangle Increase/Decrease – I will discuss these two stitches in detail below. Essentially, this is a group of trcs/dcs that create the top or bottom part of our diamonds.

Special Instructions:

I do not have st counts at the end of the rows. This is to allow you freedom to make your table runner as long or short as you’d like.
Instructions in () are grouped this way to make it easier to read and is usually written this way to indicate a series of sts made in the same st.
There is a bit of math we will have to do later, but don’t worry, I will walk you through it as we get to those spots in the pattern.

Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

Ch 53

Row 1: *YO twice, insert into 8th ch from hook, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (5 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (6 loops on your hook).

YO, pull through 4 loops, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through 2 loops again. This is your triangle decrease stitch.

Ch 2, skip 2 chs, trc into next ch, ch 1, dc into the first two “loops” in the leg of the trc you just crocheted (see pic below), ch 1, dc into same space, ch 1, dc into same space again. This is your triangle increase stitch.

Ch 2, skip 2 chs*, repeat from *to* trc into the last ch (4 triangle decreases and 3 triangle increases)

Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as a trc and ch 2), turn, for this row, we will be making triangle decrease stitches on top of the previous row’s triangle increase stitches and vice versa.

The last stitch from row 1 should have been a triangle decrease stitch, so for row 2, we will begin with a triangle increase stitch.

Skip the next ch 2 space, make a trc, but place it under the next stitch (not into it as you normally would). I find it helpful to think of this space as the “neck” of the last row’s triangle decrease stitch. Just find a space to insert your hook into the neck and trc there. If you trc into the stitch normally, the diamonds we are trying to create will look off-center. See pic below for a visual on the placement.

Triangle increase stitch as you did in row 1. Ch 2, now we will make a triangle decrease into the next triangle increase. Make a triangle decrease stitch as we did in row 1, using only the dcs and trc sts and skipping the ch 1 spaces between.

If crocheted correctly, this will give us our first diamond shape.

Ch 2 and repeat these two stitches with a ch 2 between each triangle increase and decrease After the last ch 2, finish your row by skipping 2 chs and trc into the next ch.

Row 3: Ch 6, turn, the first st below should be a triangle increase stitch, so we will begin with a triangle decrease stitch. ch 2, and triangle increase into the next triangle decrease like we did in row 2. There is no difference in this row compared to row 2, other than starting with a different triangle stitch.

Repeat Rows 2-3 until you reach 62 rows or increase the length with a repeat of 12 rows, do not cut yarn.

Border:

Now we will be creating the border around our length of lacy diamonds. We need to do a few simple rows of sc around to create a nice, thick line, a few rows of mesh squares, and then we’ll finish with an intricate pattern consisting of a variety of stitches.

***Important note on length adjustments***

The last row of our scs border needs to follow a repeat of 27+24 sc (do not count the corner sts). We will be doing 3 rows total of sc. For each row, the sc will increase by two.

So, for example, on the short side of our rectangle, we need to have a total of 47 sc on the first row. This will increase to 49 sc on the next row, and then to 51 sc on the last row. 27+24 = 51 sc.

This is where stitch markers come in handy on the long side to help you count. Just make a series of 27 sc and make sure that you can fit 24 more on the very last row of sc (row 3).

It seems like a lot, but this is the only way your beautiful border is going to fit. Avoid the headache later by getting the math right early, because we both know that we don’t have the time or patience to frog everything :).

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into the same st, ch 1 (place a stitch marker here to help identify the corners later, otherwise just pray you can find it later lol), sc again into the same st. Now turning down the side, we will be placing a series of 3 sc into the sides of either the turning chs or the trcs from the previous rows.

The last sc you made counts as part of that series of 3, so place 2 more sc into the side of the trc. See pic for a better visual below.

You will have to skip a ch when you reach the starting chs, and that is ok.

When you get close to the next corner, I found it easier to count 2 chs away from the triangle increase/decrease from the starting row and placing my corner st of (sc, ch 1, place a stitch marker, sc) into the next ch away.

Now going down the next side (this should be the underside of our starting ch), place 1 sc into each ch 2 space, 1 sc into each of the bottoms of the 4 trc that make up the triangle decrease, 1 sc into each ch 2 space, and then 1 sc into the bottom of the triangle increase. Continue this way until you reach the next corner (the 3rd ch after you make 2 sc in the last ch 2 space) and (sc, ch 1, place a stitch marker, sc) in the same ch.

***Make sure you have the same number of sts on each side***

Continue making sc around the next side and creating another corner st of (sc, ch 1, sc).

Once you get back to the top of your work, sc into each st, but skip the ch 1s in the triangle increase stitches (it looks too wavy if you do).

Sl st to first sc.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, (sc, ch 1, place st marker, sc) into next ch 1 space, then make 1 sc in each st across (try not to skip the st right after you finish your corner st, sometimes it gets a little hidden). Continue making sc and your corners in this fashion. Sl st to first sc.

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, sc in next st, make a corner st in the next ch 1 space (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue making sc and corner sts as you did in row 2. Sl st to first sc.

***Take the time here to double check your st counts , remember, your last row needs to have a repeat of 27+24 not including the ch 1 corners. If you need to, it’s ok to add or skip scs to achieve the repeat formula.***

Now we will be making our mesh square rows.

Row 4: Sl st into next few sts until you reach the corner ch 1 space, sl st into the ch 1 space, ch 8 (counts as dc and ch 5), dc in same space, *ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st* repeat from *to* all the way around. (dc, ch 5, dc) in the next ch 1 corner spaces. Sl st to top of 3rd ch of our starting ch 8.

***For my short side, I have 13 mesh squares and on my long side I have 58 mesh squares (not including the ch 5 corners) Your long side number may be different if you increased or decreased the length.***

Row 5: Ch 5, (counts as dc and ch 2), (dc, ch 5, dc) in next ch 5 corner space. *Ch 2, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* around, making (dc, ch 5, dc) in the ch 5 corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd st of starting ch 5.

Row 6: Ch 5, dc in next dc, ch 2, (dc, ch 5, dc), *ch 2, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* around, making (dc, ch 5, dc) in the ch 5 corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd st of starting ch 5.

***Go ahead and stop again, let’s count our mesh squares. Our last row of mesh squares needs to follow a repeat formula of 9+8 squares, not including the corners. I have 17 squares on my short side and 62 squares on my long side. Your border will not fit if we don’t follow this formula.***

Row 7: Sl st in each ch and st until you reach the first corner and sl st into the ch 5 space.

(Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in same ch 5 space. Ch 4, *skip over next dc and ch 2, skip over next dc and ch 2 again, sc into next dc (should be the 3rd dc away from the corner space), [skip ch 2 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next dc, skip ch 2 space, sc in next dc] x 2 times, ch 4, skip the next 2 mesh squares, in the next square, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc), ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until you reach the next corner space, skip over last two mesh squares, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch 5, 3dc) in the same ch 5 corner space. Continue this way until you reach the beginning ch, sl st into top of starting ch 3.

Row 8: Ch 3, (fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc), ch 4, skip ch 4 and next 3 dc,

*sc in ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, and place (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next sc (between the two shells), skip 3 dc and sc in ch 1 space, ch 4, skip 3 dc and ch 4, (dc in first dc, fpdc in next dc, dc in last dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around middle dc, and dc around last dc), ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until next corner space and (dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc) in the corner. Continue this way until you reach the beginning ch, sl st into top of starting ch 3.

Row 9: Ch 3 (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 5,

*skip to ch 2 space, (2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc) in ch 2 space, ch 5, skip 3 dc, skip sc and skip ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 5.*

Repeat from *to* until you reach the corners, (dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 5, skip to ch 2 space, (2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc) in corner spaces.

Continue this way until you reach beginning ch 3. Sl st to top of ch 3.

Row 10: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5*, dc in the 4th ch away in next ch 4, dc in next dc, dc in fpdc, ch 5, dc in same st, dc in next fpdc, dc in 1st ch in next 4 ch.

Repeat from *to,* dc in next dc, fpdc in fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 6,

**skip ch 5, skip first ch 4 “loop,” sc in middle ch 4 “loop,” ch 6, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 6.**

Repeat from **to** until corner spaces, (dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5*, dc in the 4th ch away in next ch 4, dc in next dc, dc in fpdc, ch 5, dc in same st, dc in next fpdc, dc in 1st ch in next 4 ch.

Repeat from *to,* dc in next dc, fpdc in fpdc, dc in next dc) in corner spaces. Continue this way until you reach the beginning, sl st to top of starting ch 3.

Row 11: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 11, skip over ch 5, skip the set of ch 4 loops, skip next ch 5, and dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc*, ch 5, puff st in next ch 5 space, ch 5, puff st in same space, ch 5, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc. Repeat from *to* once more.)

**Ch 4, puff st in 6th ch in next ch 6, ch 3, skip next sc, puff st in 1st ch of next ch 6, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc**, repeat from *to* once more, repeat from **to.**

Continue this way until next corner space, ch 4, dc in next dc and repeat instructions in () for the next corner. Sl st to top of beginning ch 3.

Row 12: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 dc in 5th ch away, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, skip next 3 dc, skip 1st ch 5 space, puff st in next ch 5 space, ch 3, puff st in same space, ch 3, puff st in same space again, ch 4, skip next ch 5, skip next 3 dc, 2 dc in 5th ch, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc),

*ch 4, puff st in ch 3 space, ch 3, puff st in same st, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 dc in 5th ch away, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc.*

Repeat from *to* until next corner space, dc in next dc, repeat instructions in () for corners. Continue this way until beginning and sl st into top of starting ch 3.

Row 13: Sl st into next 2 dc, sl st into next 4 chs, sl st into dc, [ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, skip ch 4, puff st into next ch 3 space, ch 3, puff st in same space, ch 9, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in next ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in next 3 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc],

ch 4, *skip ch 4, skip next 3 dc, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in ch 3 space, ch 4, skip ch 4, skip 3 dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until corner spaces, (puff st, ch 3, puff st), in ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, repeat instructions in [ ] for corners. Continue this way until beginning and sl st into starting ch 3.

Row 14: Sl st into next 2 dc, sl st into ch 9 space, ch 3, **(ch 1, dc x 8 times [you should have 9 dc]), ch 2, skip 3 dc and sc into ch 4 space, ch 5, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) into next ch 3 space, (ch 3, puff st x 3 times [3 puff sts total]) in ch 9 space, ch 3, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in ch 3 space, ch 5,**

*sc into ch 4 space, ch 2, skip 3 dc, (dc, ch 1 x 8 times) in ch 9 space, 1 more dc into same ch 9 space, ch 2, skip 3 dc, sc into ch 4 space, ch 5 (puff st, ch 3, puff st) into ch 3 space, ch 5.*

Repeat from *to* until the next corner, skip 3 dc, dc into ch 9 space, repeat from **to** for corners. Sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

Row 15: Ch 7 (counts as trc and ch 3), 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, **(trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made x3 times), trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made, ch 3, sl st into same trc, ch 3, 2 dc into same trc again, (trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made x 3 times), trc in last dc, (you should have 9 trc and 9 “tags”) ch 2**

Skip ch 2, skip ch 5, *(puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) into next ch 3 space, (ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1)*

Skip next ch 3 space, repeat from *to* twice more, skip next ch 3 space (puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) in next ch 3 space. (You should have a total of 8 puff sts and 7 “tags” between the puff sts), ch 2, skip ch 5 space skip ch 2 space, trc into first dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made,

Repeat from **to,** skip ch 2, skip ch 5, (puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) in next ch 3 space, ch 2, skip ch 5, skip ch 2, trc in first dc, repeat from **to** again.

Continue this way around until next corner, ch 2, trc into first dc and repeat from beginning for the corners. Sl st to 4th ch in starting ch 7.

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

CONGRATULATIONS!! You made it!!

Blocking:

To block your gothic crochet table runner, soak it in a large bowl of water for 1-2 minutes. Gently squeeze out the excess water.

Now, you can be fancy and use puzzle blocking boards to help you pin your table runner in place. These are great because you can make them as long and wide as you want (great for long crochet projects).

Or you can place it on a large towel/layer a few towels together, then pin it through the towels.

Leave it to dry for at least 24 hours.

Thank you for checking out the Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern. I hope that yours turned out beautifully! If you have questions or if you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Until next time!

Gothic Crochet Pattern – Black Coasters!

by strommercrafts / August 22, 2023

Have you been looking for a gothic crochet pattern, but maybe can’t find a simple or practical one? Well fellow goth crocheters, you can rejoice! Today I have for you; a gothic crochet coaster pattern!

Do you like the gothic aesthetic? Maybe you simply love crocheting with black yarn? Or maybe you hate yourself enough to not only try crocheting with black yarn but…*gasp* TINY black yarn (I’m only kidding, but kinda not really ;)).

For this gothic crochet coaster pattern, I’m using Fashion Crochet Thread from Red Heart. I had a hard time deciding what sort of yarn to use for this pattern. I tried using some medium 4 black acrylic yarn, but it ended up being a little too fuzzy and thick for my liking (black cotton yarn probably would have been fine, I just didn’t have any!).

The normal crochet thread I use would have taken too long to make all the puff stitches, but this fashion thread is JUST the right thickness to make this coaster.

Skill Level Needed:

I’m just going to say that this black crochet coaster is for an intermediate skilled crochet or one that is willing to learn how to 1) crochet in the round and 2) learn how to crochet puff stitches.

I’ve used a magic circle to start this coaster, but you can also simply chain 2 and crochet into the first chain.

Puff Stitches: The Heart of the Design

The puff stitch is the star of this pattern. Why puff stitches? Well, it’s a dense stitch that provides the perfect thickness for a crochet coaster when paired with this type of thread.

You don’t want a totally thin coaster, because if you have any spillage from sipping your favorite beverage, you want your coaster to catch it and not seep through to the table or surface you’re trying to keep nice.

How to Crochet a Puff Stitch:

Don’t know how to make a puff stitch? No problem! Let’s discuss the short and detailed version of making this stitch.

Short: Yarn over (YO) and insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop three times (7 loops on your hook) YO and pull through all 7 loops.
Detailed: Yarn over (YO), insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop, (5 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on your hook). YO one last time and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.

Try to stay consistent with how far you pull your loops up. You’ll want to pull them up high enough that you can get your hook through all loops. Too high and your puff stitch will be too loose, but if you do it too low, it’ll be too hard to pull your hook through.

With all of that in mind, let’s dive on into this lovely, gothic crochet coaster!

Size:

This coaster’s diameter is about 4.25”
Your size may vary depending on your tension.
If you use a different sized yarn or hook than I used, your final coaster may be smaller or bigger.

Materials Needed:

Red Heart Fashion Cotton Crochet Thread, Size 3, 125 yards x 1 ball (I was able to get three coasters out 1 ball)
3.5mm Crochet Hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Markers (optional)

Abbreviations Used:

St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Mc – magic circle
Ch – chain

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch – Yarn over (YO), insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop, (5 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on your hook). YO one last time and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.

Special Instructions:

The first round is started with a magic circle, alternatively you can chain 2 and crochet into the first chain.
The starting chain 1’s at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.
Many patterns will have you chain 1 after you puff stitch to “close” it…we will not be doing this. You’ll go straight into the next puff stitch from the previous one.
The number in parenthesis at the end of the round indicates how many stitches you should have.

Gothic Crochet Coaster Pattern:

Round 1: 8 puff sts in mc, sl st to first puff st (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 puff sts in every st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
- **Protip: Having a hard time seeing your stitches? Use a stitch marker after you make your first puff stitch in the round so you know where to join!**
Round 3: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next st, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 2 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 3 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 4 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 5 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

And there you have it! Enjoy your simple, functional, AND gothic crochet masterpiece! As your coaster finds its place, I hope that it brings that little bit of darkness to your surroundings you’ve been looking for ;).

Until next time!

Crochet Blissful Bookmark – Free Pattern

by strommercrafts / July 11, 2023

Hello everyone! Today I have a wonderful crochet pattern for you. I’m calling this the Blissful Crochet Bookmark pattern! It’s a beautiful and functional crochet pattern.

If you’re a book lover like me, you know the joy you feel when reading a good story. And what better way to mark your place than with a handmade crochet bookmark! Or better yet, gift it to a friend who loves books!

I’m also so in love with the color of the crochet threads I’ve used for this bookmark. The purple color is called Antique from Artiste and wow, it really does have a vintage-inspired hue, giving any crochet project an elegant and nostalgic touch. The tan one is Natural from Red Heart.

I couldn’t decide which color I liked best, so I’m including them both.

Feel free to use any color yarn you’d like, just make sure you’re using a size 10 yarn, or your bookmark might end up being too large or small. Size 10 yarn or smaller is the perfect sized yarn for any crochet bookmark.

We’ll be crocheting on the underside of the starting chain, forming a long oval shape. When you get to the end of the row, we’ll add a few stitches to help round out the edge and then continue crocheting in the underside.

I recommend blocking your bookmark when you are finished. Without blocking, your bookmark will curl a little bit. I like to block my crochet projects by soaking it in water, patting it dry and then pinning it to a mat (or a pizza box works great too). You can add starch to make it stiff if you’d like as well.

Related Posts:

Grim Reader Crochet Bookmark

I hope you all enjoy the Blissful Crochet Bookmark pattern! As always, I try my best to accurately count stitches, if you see a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Materials Used:

Red Heart Classic Natural Cotton Yarn, 1000 Yds Size 10 x 1 skein OR
Antique Artiste Cotton Crochet Thread, 350 Yds, Size 10 x 1 skein
1.65 mm Crochet Hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet

Special Instructions:

The starting chain 1s do not count as a stitch
The numbers in parentheses at the end of each row signifies how many stitches or types of stitches you should have.
I have used parentheses for certain stitches that are repeated to make it visually easier to read.

Crochet Blissful Bookmark Pattern:

Ch 54

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into each ch across, 3 total sc in last ch, turning down the underside of the ch, 1 sc into each ch across, 1 sc in last ch, sl st into first st (108 sts)
Row 2: ch 1, sc in same st as joining st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, *(ch 3, skip a st, 1 sc in next st) x3 times total, 1 sc in next 3 sts.* Repeat from *to* 5 times. (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 2 times total. 1 sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from *to* 5 times once more. 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sl st into first sc (82 sc, 30 ch 3 spaces)
Row 3: sl st into next 3 sts, ch 1, sc in same st,*ch 5, skip over next 4 sts, 1 sc in 1st ch 3 space, (ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space) x2 times.* Repeat from *to* until last ch 3 space has been sc into, **ch 5, skip 4 sts, 1 sc into next st, ch 9, skip 5 sts,** 1 sc into next st. Repeat from *to* once more. Repeat from **to,** sl st into first sc. (34 sc, 2 ch 9 spaces, 12 ch 5 spaces, 24 ch 3 spaces)
Row 4: ch 1, sc in same st as joining st, *9 dc in next ch 5 space, 1 sc in next ch 3 space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to,* until last ch 3 space sc into, **9 dc in next ch 5 space, 1 sc in next sc, 12 dc in ch 9 space**, 1 sc in next sc. Repeat from *to* once more, until last ch 3 space sc into. Repeat from **to,** sl st to first sc. (24 sc, 10 ch 3 spaces, 114 dc)

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in end with tapestry needle.

That’s it! What do you think about the Blissful Crochet Bookmark? I hope your bookmarks turned out beautifully!

Until next time!