Solomon’s Knot Crochet Veil Pattern

by strommercrafts / January 16, 2023

Hey there everyone, today I have another crochet veil pattern for you, the Solomon’s Knot Crochet Veil!

I’ve been having a lot of fun making these lacey veils lately. It’s very therapeutic, and I can somewhat turn my brain off when making them (bonus!).

These crochet veils are typically worn during a Catholic Mass. Wearing a veil to mass is not a requirement, but some women continue the tradition of wearing one as a way to humble oneself before God.

With that said, if you like wearing a veil to mass, you may have noticed that these veils can be a little pricey. I wanted to make one that would fit my 4 year old, but didn’t want to spend 20-30 dollars on one that she’d grow out of eventually.

Luckily, crochet thread is still super cheap, so all you need is the time to make the actual veil. Making this child size one took me about 4 days of crocheting off and on.

The Solomon’s Knot Crochet Veil is made up entirely of a special stitch called…you guessed it; the solomon’s knot. The solomon’s knot stitch is made simply by pulling up “longer” loops than normal and single crochets. This creates a lacey, diamond-like shape in your work.

I’ve made a child size crochet veil for this project today, but you can easily adjust the length of your veil by using a repeat of 2+4.

Materials Needed:

Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread Size 10, 1000 Yards x 1
1.65 mm Crochet Hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

Ch – chain
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
SK – solomon’s knot (see Row 1)

Solomon’s Knot Crochet Veil Pattern:

To make your foundation chain, make a repeat of 2+4

This means to make a multiple of 2 SK stitches plus 4 SK stitches at the end for your turning ch.

For this child size veil, make 90 SK stitches.

Row 1: Ch 2, sc in first ch. Pull up a loop about ¾” tall (or to your desired height) with your crochet hook. Yarn over, and pull through your big loop. Insert your hook into the single, back “bump” of your work, make a sc in that bump. This is a solomon’s knot (SK) stitch. Continue making SK stitches until you reach your desired length (remember, it needs to be able to drape over your head comfortably).

Row 2: Turn, sc in the 4th sc from your hook, *make 2 SK stitches, skip a sc, sc in next sc*. Repeat from *to* until end of row. You should end with a sc in the last sc.

Row 3: Make 3 SK stitches, turn, sc in the “middle” sc of previous rows 2 SK stitches, *make 2 SK stitches, skip a sc, sc in next sc.* Repeat from *to.*

Repeat Row 3 until you’ve reached the desired length for your veil.

Edge:

To make a ch 3 picot: ch 3, insert your hook into the previous sc made and make a sl st in that sc.

Row 1: Ch 1, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in first loop, (sc, ch 3 picot, sc) in middle sc, 2 sc in next loop, sc in next sc.* Repeat from *to*

Assembly:

Fold the crochet veil in half, line up the sides and sew together by slip stitching into both sides all the way down. Try to sl st as evenly as possible on both sides.

Thank you for checking out my Solomon’s Knot Crochet Veil! If you have any questions, please leave a comment down below.

Until next time!

Pink Crochet Hat Pattern

by strommercrafts / January 9, 2023

Happy new year everyone! Today I have a pink crochet hat pattern for you!

This hat is available in sizes newborn to large adult. I have the averages for head circumference and hat height per age.

As always, I recommend obtaining accurate measurements with a tape measure and then finding the instructions for those measurements below.

I decided to use one of my favorite textured crochet stitches for this pattern…the wattle stitch! I’ve used this stitch in some of my previous patterns. It’s a simple stitch that creates a beautiful texture that looks like little flowers.

The yarn I’m using today is from Mainstays 100% Cotton Yarn in Daylily Pink. This natural cotton yarn is nice and soft, and has a variety of neutral and muted shades available (so if pink isn’t your kind of color, check them out!). If you’re using the same pink yarn, this would be the perfect gift for a girl or a baby girl.

Keep in mind that this yarn is a 4 worsted weight, so if you want to use a different yarn, make sure that it is also a 4 worsted weight or your final product might end up too big or too small.

I’ve also decided to sew a faux fur pom pom to the top of this pink crochet hat. If you don’t have a pom pom, you can always make one out of any left over yarn you have.

Materials Needed:

5 mm crochet hook
Mainstays 100% Cotton Yarn in Daylily Pink (180 yards) x 2 skeins
Faux Fur Pom Pom – I used these ones.
Stitch Marker (optional)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
Sc3tog – single crochet three stitches together

Special Instructions:

The beginning ch 1’s do not count as a stitch.
This pink crochet hat is worked from the bottom, up.
We will be turning our work after each row, this helps the wattle stitch’s texture show.
A wattle stitch is comprised of a (sc, ch 1, dc) all in the same stitch. Instead of stating the number of individual stitches at the end of each row, the number of wattle stitches are provided once the body of the hat is started.
The bottom ribbing of the hat has a different texture depending on what side you use. See below pic.
After the bottom ribbing is made, instructions state to sc in each “valley” and “ridge” of the side of the ribbing. See below pic.
To sc3tog, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop. Insert hook into the 2nd st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Insert hook into the 3rd st and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

Pink Crochet Hat Pattern:

Newborn-3 Months

| Head Circumference: 13-14 inches | Hat Height: 4.5-6 inches |

Ribbing:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc into 2nd ch from hook and next 4 chs (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely into first st, sl st loosely into back loop of next 3 sts, sl st loosely into both loops of last st (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into first st, sc in back loop of next 3 sts, sc in last st (5 sts)
Row 4-45: Repeat rows 2-3 (5 sts)
Row 46: Ch 1, turn, fold ribbing together and sl st into each st to sew together, sl st into next st on the top of the ribbing, ch 1, and sc in the same st (mark sc with a st marker to help with counting in the next row, the last ch 1 does not count as a st).

Body of Hat:

Row 1: Sc in each “ridge” and “valley of the ribbing. The sc count here needs to be a multiple of 3. Sl st join into the first (marked) stitch. (51 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, we will now wattle stitch in the first st. (Sc, ch 1, dc) in the first st (you can remove your st marker if you like), *skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st,* repeat from *to* until last 2 sts, skip last 2 sts, sl st join into first sc. (45 sts or 15 wattle stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, skip the next st and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* until last you’ve wattle stitched in the last ch 1 space, skip a st, sl st join into the first sc. (15 wattle stitches)
Row 4-9: Repeat row 3. (15 wattle stitches)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, *sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces*, repeat from *to,* sl st join into first st. (12 wattle stitches)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces,* repeat from *to,* join by sc2tog into last sc and first sc of this row. (9 wattle stitches)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces,* repeat from *to,* join by sc2tog into last sc and first sc of this row. (6 wattle stitches)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next ch 1 space, *sc3tog in sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* join by sc2tog into last sc and first sc of this row. (3 wattle stitches)

Cut a long length of yarn to sew the top of the hat shut with tapestry needle, attach your pom pom by sewing to the center of the top of your hat.

Cut off any excess yarn with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

3-6 Months

| Head Circumference: 14-15 inches | Hat Height: 6-6.25 inches |

Ribbing:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc into 2nd ch from hook and next 4 chs (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely into first st, sl st loosely into back loop of next 3 sts, sl st loosely into both loops of last st (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into first st, sc in back loop of next 3 sts, sc in last st (5 sts)
Row 4-51: Repeat rows 2-3 (5 sts)
Row 52: Ch 1, turn, fold ribbing together and sl st into each st to sew together, sl st into next st on the top of the ribbing, ch 1, and sc in the same st (mark sc with a st marker to help with counting in the next row, the last ch 1 does not count as a st).

Body of Hat:

Row 1: Sc in each “ridge” and “valley of the ribbing. The sc count here needs to be a multiple of 3. Sl st join into the first (marked) stitch. (51 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, we will now wattle stitch in the first st. (Sc, ch 1, dc) in the first st (you can remove your st marker if you like), *skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st,* repeat from *to* until last 2 sts, skip last 2 sts, sl st join into first sc. (51 sts or 17 wattle stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, skip the next st and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* until last you’ve wattle stitched in the last ch 1 space, skip a st, sl st join into the first sc. (17 wattle stitches)
Row 4-11: Repeat row 3. (17 wattle stitches)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 5 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 5 ch 1 spaces, sl st join into first st. (14 wattle stitches)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (11 wattle stitches)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (8 wattle stitches)
Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next ch 1 space, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (5 wattle stitches)

Cut a long length of yarn to sew the top of the hat shut with tapestry needle, attach your pom pom by sewing to the center of the top of your hat.

Cut off any excess yarn with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

6-12 Months

| Head Circumference: 16-18 inches | Hat Height: 6.25-6.5 inches |

Ribbing:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc into 2nd ch from hook and next 4 chs (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely into first st, sl st loosely into back loop of next 3 sts, sl st loosely into both loops of last st (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into first st, sc in back loop of next 3 sts, sc in last st (5 sts)
Row 4-57: Repeat rows 2-3 (5 sts)
Row 58: Ch 1, turn, fold ribbing together and sl st into each st to sew together, sl st into next st on the top of the ribbing, ch 1, and sc in the same st (mark sc with a st marker to help with counting in the next row, the last ch 1 does not count as a st).

Body of Hat:

Row 1: Sc in each “ridge” and “valley of the ribbing. The sc count here needs to be a multiple of 3. Sl st join into the first (marked) stitch. (57 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, we will now wattle stitch in the first st. (Sc, ch 1, dc) in the first st (you can remove your st marker if you like), *skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st,* repeat from *to* until last 2 sts, skip last 2 sts, sl st join into first sc. (57 sts or 19 wattle stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, skip the next st and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* until last you’ve wattle stitched in the last ch 1 space, skip a st, sl st join into the first sc. (19 wattle stitches)
Row 4-12: Repeat row 3. (19 wattle stitches)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 5 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 6 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 5 ch 1 spaces, sl st join into first st. (16 wattle stitches)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 5 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (13 wattle stitches)
Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (10 wattle stitches)
Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (7 wattle stitches)
Row 17: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next ch 1 space, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next ch 1 space, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (4 wattle stitches)

Cut a long length of yarn to sew the top of the hat shut with tapestry needle, attach your pom pom by sewing to the center of the top of your hat.

Cut off any excess yarn with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Toddler

| Head Circumference: 18-19 inches | Hat Height: 7.25-7.5 inches |

Ribbing:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc into 2nd ch from hook and next 4 chs (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely into first st, sl st loosely into back loop of next 3 sts, sl st loosely into both loops of last st (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into first st, sc in back loop of next 3 sts, sc in last st (5 sts)
Row 4-60: Repeat rows 2-3 (5 sts)
Row 61: Ch 1, turn, fold ribbing together and sl st into each st to sew together, sl st into next st on the top of the ribbing, ch 1, and sc in the same st (mark sc with a st marker to help with counting in the next row, the last ch 1 does not count as a st).

Body of Hat:

Row 1: Sc in each “ridge” and “valley of the ribbing. The sc count here needs to be a multiple of 3. Sl st join into the first (marked) stitch. (60 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, we will now wattle stitch in the first st. (Sc, ch 1, dc) in the first st (you can remove your st marker if you like), *skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st,* repeat from *to* until last 2 sts, skip last 2 sts, sl st join into first sc. (60 sts or 20 wattle stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, skip the next st and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* until last you’ve wattle stitched in the last ch 1 space, skip a st, sl st join into the first sc. (20 wattle stitches)
Row 4-15: Repeat row 3. (20 wattle stitches)
Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 6 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 5 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 6 ch 1 spaces, sl st join into first st. (17 wattle stitches)
Row 17: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 5 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 5 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (14 wattle stitches)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (11 wattle stitches)
Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (8 wattle stitches)
Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next ch 1 space, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (5 wattle stitches)

Cut a long length of yarn to sew the top of the hat shut with tapestry needle, attach your pom pom by sewing to the center of the top of your hat.

Cut off any excess yarn with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Child

| Head Circumference: 19-20 inches | Hat Height: 7.5-8 inches |

Ribbing:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc into 2nd ch from hook and next 4 chs (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely into first st, sl st loosely into back loop of next 3 sts, sl st loosely into both loops of last st (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into first st, sc in back loop of next 3 sts, sc in last st (5 sts)
Row 4-63: Repeat rows 2-3 (5 sts)
Row 64: Ch 1, turn, fold ribbing together and sl st into each st to sew together, sl st into next st on the top of the ribbing, ch 1, and sc in the same st (mark sc with a st marker to help with counting in the next row, the last ch 1 does not count as a st).

Body of Hat:

Row 1: Sc in each “ridge” and “valley of the ribbing. The sc count here needs to be a multiple of 3. Sl st join into the first (marked) stitch. (63 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, we will now wattle stitch in the first st. (Sc, ch 1, dc) in the first st (you can remove your st marker if you like), *skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st,* repeat from *to* until last 2 sts, skip last 2 sts, sl st join into first sc. (63 sts or 21 wattle stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, skip the next st and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* until last you’ve wattle stitched in the last ch 1 space, skip a st, sl st join into the first sc. (21 wattle stitches)
Row 4-15: Repeat row 3. (21 wattle stitches)
Row 16: Ch 1, turn, *sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 6 ch 1 spaces*, repeat from *to,* sl st join into first st. (18 wattle stitches)
Row 17: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 5 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 5 ch 1 spaces,* repeat from *to,* join by sc2tog into last sc and first sc of this row. (15 wattle stitches)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces,* repeat from *to,* join by sc2tog into last sc and first sc of this row. (12 wattle stitches)
Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces,* repeat from *to,* join by sc2tog into last sc and first sc of this row. (9 wattle stitches)
Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces,* repeat from *to,* join by sc2tog into last sc and first sc of this row. (6 wattle stitches)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next ch 1 space, *sc3tog in sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* join by sc2tog into last sc and first sc of this row. (3 wattle stitches)

Cut a long length of yarn to sew the top of the hat shut with tapestry needle, attach your pom pom by sewing to the center of the top of your hat.

Cut off any excess yarn with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Teenager/Small Adult

| Head Circumference: 20-21 inches | Hat Height: 8-8.5 inches |

Ribbing:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc into 2nd ch from hook and next 4 chs (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely into first st, sl st loosely into back loop of next 3 sts, sl st loosely into both loops of last st (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into first st, sc in back loop of next 3 sts, sc in last st (5 sts)
Row 4-66: Repeat rows 2-3 (5 sts)
Row 67: Ch 1, turn, fold ribbing together and sl st into each st to sew together, sl st into next st on the top of the ribbing, ch 1, and sc in the same st (mark sc with a st marker to help with counting in the next row, the last ch 1 does not count as a st).

Body of Hat:

Row 1: Sc in each “ridge” and “valley of the ribbing. The sc count here needs to be a multiple of 3. Sl st join into the first (marked) stitch. (66 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, we will now wattle stitch in the first st. (Sc, ch 1, dc) in the first st (you can remove your st marker if you like), *skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st,* repeat from *to* until last 2 sts, skip last 2 sts, sl st join into first sc. (66 sts or 22 wattle stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, skip the next st and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* until last you’ve wattle stitched in the last ch 1 space, skip a st, sl st join into the first sc. (22 wattle stitches)
Row 4-17: Repeat row 3. (22 wattle stitches)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 6 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 7 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 6 ch 1 spaces, sl st join into first st. (19 wattle stitches)
Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 5 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 6 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 5 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (16 wattle stitches)
Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 5 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (13 wattle stitches)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (10 wattle stitches)
Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (7 wattle stitches)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next ch 1 space, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next ch 1 space, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (4 wattle stitches)

Cut a long length of yarn to sew the top of the hat shut with tapestry needle, attach your pom pom by sewing to the center of the top of your hat.

Cut off any excess yarn with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Adult

| Head Circumference: 22 inches | Hat Height: 8.5-9 inches |

Ribbing:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc into 2nd ch from hook and next 4 chs (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely into first st, sl st loosely into back loop of next 3 sts, sl st loosely into both loops of last st (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into first st, sc in back loop of next 3 sts, sc in last st (5 sts)
Row 4-72: Repeat rows 2-3 (5 sts)
Row 73: Ch 1, turn, fold ribbing together and sl st into each st to sew together, sl st into next st on the top of the ribbing, ch 1, and sc in the same st (mark sc with a st marker to help with counting in the next row, the last ch 1 does not count as a st).

Body of Hat:

Row 1: Sc in each “ridge” and “valley of the ribbing. The sc count here needs to be a multiple of 3. Sl st join into the first (marked) stitch. (72 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, we will now wattle stitch in the first st. (Sc, ch 1, dc) in the first st (you can remove your st marker if you like), *skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st,* repeat from *to* until last 2 sts, skip last 2 sts, sl st join into first sc. (72 sts or 24 wattle stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, skip the next st and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* until last you’ve wattle stitched in the last ch 1 space, skip a st, sl st join into the first sc. (24 wattle stitches)
Row 4-18,: Repeat row 3.
Row 19: Ch 1, turn, *sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 7 ch 1 spaces*, repeat from *to,* sl st join into first st. (21 wattle stitches)
Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 6 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in next sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 6 ch 1 spaces* repeat from *to,* sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (18 wattle stitches)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 5 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in next sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 5 ch 1 spaces* repeat from *to,* sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (15 wattle stitches)
Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in next sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces* repeat from *to,* sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (12 wattle stitches)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in next sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces* repeat from *to,* sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (9 wattle stitches)
Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in next sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces* repeat from *to,* sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (6 wattle stitches)
Row 25: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next ch 1 space, *sc3tog in next sc2tog from previous row and dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch into next ch 1 space* repeat from *to,* sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (3 wattle stitches)

Cut a long length of yarn to sew the top of the hat shut with tapestry needle, attach your pom pom by sewing to the center of the top of your hat.

Cut off any excess yarn with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Large Adult

| Head Circumference: 23 inches | Hat Height: 9-9.5 inches |

Ribbing:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc into 2nd ch from hook and next 4 chs (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely into first st, sl st loosely into back loop of next 3 sts, sl st loosely into both loops of last st (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into first st, sc in back loop of next 3 sts, sc in last st (5 sts)
Row 4-78: Repeat rows 2-3 (5 sts)
Row 79: Ch 1, turn, fold ribbing together and sl st into each st to sew together, sl st into next st on the top of the ribbing, ch 1, and sc in the same st (mark sc with a st marker to help with counting in the next row, the last ch 1 does not count as a st).

Body of Hat:

Row 1: Sc in each “ridge” and “valley of the ribbing. The sc count here needs to be a multiple of 3. Sl st join into the first (marked) stitch. (78 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, we will now wattle stitch in the first st. (Sc, ch 1, dc) in the first st (you can remove your st marker if you like), *skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st,* repeat from *to* until last 2 sts, skip last 2 sts, sl st join into first sc. (78 sts or 26 wattle stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, skip the next st and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to,* until last you’ve wattle stitched in the last ch 1 space, skip a st, sl st join into the first sc. (26 wattle stitches)
Row 4-20: Repeat row 3. (26 wattle stitches)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 8 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 7 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch, wattle stitch in next 8 ch 1 spaces, sl st join into first st. (23 wattle stitches)
Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 7 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 6 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 7 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (20 wattle stitches)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 6 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 5 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 6 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (17 wattle stitches)
Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 5 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 5 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (14 wattle stitches)
Row 25: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 4 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 4 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (11 wattle stitches)
Row 26: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 3 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 3 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (8 wattle stitches)
Row 27: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in the dc and sc of next wattle stitch from previous row, wattle stitch into next 2 ch 1 spaces, *sc3tog in sc2tog of previous row and the dc and sc of next wattle stitch*, wattle stitch in next ch 1 space, repeat from *to* once more, wattle stitch in next 2 ch 1 spaces, sc2tog in last st and first st of row to join. (5 wattle stitches)

Cut a long length of yarn to sew the top of the hat shut with tapestry needle, attach your pom pom by sewing to the center of the top of your hat. Cut off any excess yarn with scissors. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

Thank you for checking out my pink crochet hat pattern. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask in the comments below!

Crochet Sweater for Child – Free Pattern

by strommercrafts / January 2, 2023

Hello everyone, I hope you have all enjoyed the holidays and have had a happy new year’s! Today I have a crochet sweater for a child pattern for you.

I’ve made a few sweaters in the past for my girls, but now that they’re a little bigger, they no longer fit. I decided to see if I could crochet a bigger one with yarn from Yarn Bee’s Soft Secret line.

I’m really enjoying working with this kind of yarn. It’s acrylic (so not as expensive as other yarn types), but incredibly soft and stretchy. The soft, stretchiness of the yarn is perfect for a nice, drapey sweater.

Yarn Bee claims that this yarn is a 4 medium weight, but to be perfectly honest, after using this yarn for a few projects, I think it’s a little lighter/smaller than that. So keep that in mind if you’re using a different type of yarn.

Caron Simply Soft yarn would be my second go to for this crochet sweater pattern. It also claims to be a 4 medium weight, but seems to be a little lighter in my opinion. It’s also an incredibly soft acrylic yarn.

One thing that I love about this sweater, is that it’s worked from the top, down.

This was nice because I had my little models close by and I could just slip the sweater over them and make adjustments as needed. Other sweater patterns might have you make a bunch of different panels and sew them together (which is fine, but the less sewing, the better imo).

Another thing I love about the sweater is that it has a wonderful texture to it! It’s created with one of my favorite types of stitches: the wattle stitch! This stitch is simple and creates a lovely texture that isn’t boring.

To wattle stitch you; (sc, ch 1, dc) all in the same stitch, skip two stitches and repeat. Then when you wattle stitch in the next round, you (sc, ch 1, dc) in the ch 1 spaces from the previous wattle stitch.

Materials Needed:

5 mm crochet hook
Yarn Bee’s Soft Secret in Navy Blue x 1 skein (300 yards)
Yarn Bee’s Soft Secret in White x 1 skein (300 yards)
Yarn Bee’s Soft Secret in Denim x 1 skein (300 yards)
Stitch Markers
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

Ch – chain
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
Wattle stitch – series of (sc, ch 1, dc) in same st/space.

Crochet Sweater for Child Pattern:

Neck Ribbing:

With Navy Blue yarn;

Round 1: Ch 5, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook and sc across (4 sts)
Round 2-60: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc in back loop of next 2 sts, sc in last st (4 sts)

Fold together and make 4 slip sts in the top to sew into a band.

Round 61: Sl st into the edge of your band, ch 1, sc in same space, mark this stitch with a stitch marker. We will be making 1 sc into every “valley” and “ridge” of the band. Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker. Join with a sl st to first st (60 sts). Remember, whatever your stitch count is, if making a different size, make this a multiple of 3.

We will now mark corner stitches in the neck ribbing to start our increases for the shoulders. Mark the 15th st, 18th st, 43rd st, and 46th st with stitch markers if following this pattern.

Instructions for different sizes: To find the corner stitches for the shoulders, I’m essentially taking the total sc stitch count I have, and dividing it by 4, placing a stitch marker in that number away from the first stitch and placing another stitch 3 stitches away from that one. Then I do the same on the other side by counting from the last stitch and going the opposite way.

For example: I had 60 sts, 60/4 = 15.25. I round down and place a stitch marker in the 15th stitch away from the first and last stitch. I then count 3 stitches more and place another stitch marker.

Neck and Shoulders:

Round 1: Ch 1 and turn your work. *(sc, ch 1, dc) (this is called the wattle stitch) in next st (your first st marked with the marker), skip 2 sts*, repeat from *to,* you should have 1 st left before the first corner st marker, skip 1 st, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in the first corner stitch marked. Move your stitch marker into the ch 2 space. Skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in the next corner stitch marked. Move your st marker into ch 2 space as well.
Skip 1 st, **(sc, ch 1, dc) in next st, skip 2 sts,** repeat from **to** until you have 1 st before the next marked corner st. Skip 1 st, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in the first corner stitch marked. Move your stitch marker into the ch 2 space. Skip 2 sts and (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in the next corner stitch marked. Move next corner st marker into the ch 2 space. Skip 1 st, repeat from **to** again. You should have a (sc, ch 1, dc) in the last st of the round, sl st to first st.
Round 2: Ch 1, turn, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space of previous round, skip sc and dc of previous row and (sc, ch 1, dc) again,* repeat from *to* until you reach the marked ch 2 space of previous round’s corner stitch. **(sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space. Place stitch marker in ch 2 space. (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space again. (sc, ch 2, dc) in next ch 2 corner space**. Repeat from *to* until next corner spaces. Repeat **to**. Repeat *to* once more. Sl st to first sc of round.
Round 3: Ch 1, turn, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip sc and dc* repeat from *to* until next ch 2 corner space. **(sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space. (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip sc and dc until next corner. (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, ch 1, dc) in next ch 2 corner space.** Repeat from *to* until next set of corner spaces. Repeat from **to** in next set of corner spaces. Repeat from *to* once more. Sl st to first sc of round.
Round 4: Ch 1, turn, repeat round 2.
Round 5: repeat round 3.
Round 6: repeat round 2.
Round 7: repeat round 3.
Round 8: repeat round 2.
Round 9: repeat round 3.
Round 10: repeat round 2.
Round 11: repeat round 3.
Round 12: repeat round 2.
Round 13: repeat round 3
Round 14: repeat round 2

Length from bottom of neckline to bottom of chest at this point is about 4.5 inches. End on a repeat from round 2 if crocheting a different size.

Armholes:

Round 15: Ch 1, turn, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip sc and dc* repeat from *to* until first ch 2 corner space. Fold so both ch 2 corner spaces are touching, inserting your hook into both ch 2 spaces, (sc, ch 1, dc). You might have to turn your work a little to get the dc into ch 2 space correctly. This creates one of the arm holes. Continue wattle stitching across (don’t wattle stitch around the sleeves) until the next set of ch 2 spaces. Fold together and wattle stitch into both the ch 2 spaces. Wattle stitch until end of row. Sl st into first st.

Cut yarn and switch to White. Sl st into first st.

Round 16-31: Ch 1, turn, wattle stitch around, sl st to first st.

Cut yarn and switch to Denim. Sl st into first st.

Round 32-43: Ch 1, turn, wattle stitch around, sl st to first st.

Bottom Ribbing:

Round 44: Ch 6, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook and sc across ch and sc into the same space as sl st join from round 40. (5 sts)
Round 45: Sc into ch 1 space from wattle stitch from round 40, turn, skip first st, sc into back loop of next 4 sts, sc into last st (5 sts)
Round 46: turn, (do not ch 1), sc into first st, sc into back loop of next 4 sts, sc into dc of wattle stitch from round 40, sc into sc of next wattle stitch
Round 47: turn, skip first two sts, sc into back loop of next 4 sts, sc into last st
Round 48: turn (do not ch 1), sc into first st, sc into back loop of next 4 sts, sc into ch 1 space, sc into dc of wattle stitches from round 40.
Round 49: repeat round 47.
Round 50: turn (do not ch 1), sc into first st, sc into back loop of next 4 sts, sc into sc of wattle stitch, sc into ch 1 space of wattle stitch.

Continue making the ribbing this way and attaching to the body of the sweater by sc into the sc, ch 1 space, and dc of the wattle stitches from round 40.

Once you reach the beginning of the bottom ribbing, fold together and sew together into each st with a sl st.

Cut yarn, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Sleeves x2:

Change to Navy Blue

Round 1: Insert hook into the armpit of the sleeve and attach with a sl st. Ch 1, wattle stitch around, sl st to first sc (make sure you are crocheting in the opposite way of the previous round of the arm hole, you should be looking at your wattle stitches with a dc first and then ch 1 and sc. This keeps the texture of the sweater consistent throughout the sleeves).

Round 2-7: Ch 1, turn, wattle stitch around, sl st to first st.

Cut yarn, pull through

Change to White, attach with a sl st in same space as previous sl st from round 7.

Round 8-14: Ch 1, turn, wattle stitch around, sl st to first st.

Cut yarn and pull through

Change to Denim, attach with a sl st in same space as previous sl st from round 14.

Round 15-21: Ch 1, turn, wattle stitch around, sl st to first st
Round 22: Ch 1, turn, wattle stitch in the first ch 1 space, *sc into the next ch 1 space, wattle stitch in the next ch 1 space,* repeat from *to* around, ending with a sc in the last ch 1 space.

Sleeve Cuff x2:

Make sure that the same side of the sleeve cuff is facing out on both sides for consistency. You’ll notice that the texture on the front is different than the back. If the second cuff isn’t quite matching your first cuff’s texture, try turning and going the opposite way when you start your ch 6.

Round 23: Ch 6, turn, sc into 2nd ch from hook and next 3 chs, sc2tog in last ch and in same st as sl st. (5 sts)
Round 24: sl st into next st on the sleeve, turn, (going up the ch 6), skip sl st just made, sl st loosely into back loop of next 5 sts.
Round 25: Ch 1, turn, sc in back loop of next 4 sts (these may be a little tight to get into as they are slip stitches, that’s why we are sl sting loosely in round 24), sc2tog in the last st and in the next st along the edge of the sleeve.
Round 26: sl st into next st on the sleeve, turn, skip sl st just made, sl st loosely into back loop of next 5 sts.

Repeat rounds 25-26 until you’ve reached the beginning of round 23.

Line both ends of the cuff together and sl st to sew into each st. Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

There you go! I hope your sweater turned out just as lovely as mine! If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask below.

Until next time!

Simple Crochet Mittens for Toddlers

by strommercrafts / December 27, 2022

Hello everyone, today I have a crochet mitten pattern for a toddler! Winter is finally here and my girls have been needing some new mittens this year.

I ran out to our local Walmart, and seriously, I think everyone has a kid the same size or age as mine because I could not find ANY in the size I needed. It was either 24 months and under or adult mittens. Aghhh!

So I thought maybe I could crochet my girls a pair of simple mittens with some of Yarn Bee’s Soft Secret yarn.

I think these turned out pretty great, and they fit perfectly since I was able to size their hands myself!

These simple crochet mittens should fit ages 2-4 years of age. You can easily adjust this pattern if you’d like however. If you need a smaller size, skip round 3 and continue on, keeping in mind your stitch count will be a tad less. If you need a larger size, add another round of increases by continuing to place 2 hdc in one st and 2 in the next 2 stitches after round 3.

You can also make the cuff length as long as you want (and to be honest, it might be better to make it a little bit longer, especially if you’re like me and have kiddos that ask for help putting their mittens back on frequently).

These mittens fit both of my girls who are 2 and 4 years of age. Their hand width measured 5-5.25 inches and their hand length measured 4-4.25 inches.

Now, these mittens are soft and warm, but they are not made for playing in the snow. I honestly don’t recommend letting your kids wear crochet mittens for snow play, even if it’s really thick, bulky yarn. It just gets wet and soggy and your child will probably not have a very good time.

Again, I’m using Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Ivory yarn for these mittens. This yarn is technically a 4 – medium weight, but I think it feels a little smaller and lighter than that, which is why I’m using a 4.25 mm crochet hook instead of a 5 mm crochet hook. It’s also 100% acrylic, but it’s incredibly soft, so it’s great for those little toddler hands!

Materials Needed:

US G/4.25 mm crochet hook
Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Ivory x 1 skein (300 Yards)
Stitch Marker
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms and not UK.

Ch – chain
Mc – magic circle
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together

Special Considerations:

These simple crochet mittens are crocheted in a continuous round. This is to prevent a visible seam in your mittens. Use stitch markers or a scrap piece of yarn to help you determine the beginning and end of your rounds.
To half double crochet two stitches together (hdc2tog):
- Yarn over, insert your hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (5 loops on your hook)
- Yarn over, pull through all 5 loops on your hook.

Crochet Mittens (Make Two)

Round 1: 8 hdc in mc (alternatively, ch 2 and crochet in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st around (24 sts)
Round 4-11: 1 hdc in each st around (24 sts)
Round 12: 1 hdc in first st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 hdc in next st and each st around (22 sts and 1 ch 4)
Round 13: 1 hdc in first st, 4 hdc in ch 4 space, 1 hdc in each st around (make sure to hdc in the st right after the ch 4, see pic below) (26 sts)
Round 14: 1 hdc in each st around (26 sts)
Round 15: hdc2tog, *1 hdc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 5 sts*, repeat from *to* once more (22 sts)
Round 16: hdc in next 9 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 9 sts, hdc2tog (20 sts)
Round 17-20 (or until desired length): 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (20 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull yarn through and weave in end with tapestry needle.

Thumb:

Round 1: holding your mitten downwards, join in the ch 4 space with a slip st in any st. Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in each st around, there will be a part in the thumb space where you will have to hdc in sts that are upside from round 12 of the mitten. Make 14 hdc around total (14 sts)
Round 2-3: 1 hdc in each st around (14 sts)
Round 4: hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 5 sts (12 sts)
Round 5: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* around (8 sts)

Leave enough yarn for sewing, cut with scissors, weave the top of the thumb shut with tapestry needle.

Viola! These simple crochet mittens are so soft and cute, I hope your little ones enjoy them too!

Thank you for checking out this pattern, until next time!

A Quick Start Guide on How to Crochet

by strommercrafts / December 20, 2022

New to crochet? Wondering where to start? Not sure what to do with that cool yarn you picked up at the store? Well, good news! We are going back to basics and learning how to crochet for beginners with this quick start guide.

What is Crochet?

According to Wikipedia, crochet is a method of creating textiles by using a crochet hook to interlock loops of yarn, thread or strands of other materials.

What Can I Make with Crochet?

There are so many possibilities when it comes to making things with crochet! You can make almost anything out of crochet, but some of the most popular items include:

Blankets
Hats and Headbands
Scarves
Sweaters and Tops
Socks
Market Bags
Toys (Amigurumi)
Doilies
Table Runners
Pillows
Tapestries/Wall Decorations

Not only do you get to choose the type of yarn and color combinations to make these items, you get the satisfaction of knowing that you made something by hand! How awesome is that?

Where to Start When Crocheting

If you haven’t already, visit your local craft or big box store (or check out online) and head to the yarn aisle. Pick out a yarn that you’re drawn to, and check out the label on your yarn.

On the yarn label, it should have a recommended hook size that you should use when working with that yarn. It’ll probably have knitting needle sizes on there too, but disregard those recommendations.

Crochet hooks should be nearby, grab the number hook your yarn label recommends. Most hooks are measured in millimeters, but some have letters. The most common hook size used is a H-8 or 5mm.

Grab a tapestry needle and some scissors as well. You’ll need the tapestry needle to hide any ends of your yarn that show after you’re done with your project.

Learn How to Hold Your Hook and Yarn

There’s a couple different ways you can hold your yarn and hook, but I would just hold your yarn and hook in a way that feels the most comfortable for you.

It’s probably going to feel weird and clunky when you first try, that’s ok, just keep practicing. As you learn to crochet, you’ll learn how tight or loose (this is called tension) to make your stitches. Just remember to relax!

How to Put Your Yarn on Your Crochet Hook

In order to start crocheting, you will have to attach the yarn to the hook with a slip knot.

Crochet A Starting Chain (Ch)

Most crochet patterns will tell you how many chains to start with. This is usually abbreviated as ch.

To make your first chain, you need to grab your yarn with your crochet hook and pull it through the slip knot. This is called yarning over and pulling through. You might need to loosen up your slip knot if you find it difficult to get your hook through.

It’s important to relax and not make your chains super tight.

It’s really hard to get your hook into your tight chains when you go back over the top, plus your hands will most likely cramp. This part takes practice until you can get a consistent tension down.

Stop after you’ve made the number of chains your pattern says or until you’re happy with the length.

Turning Your Work and Crocheting into the Starting Chain

Many patterns will tell you what kind of stitches to crochet into your starting chain. You’ll need to go back down or turn to crochet back into the chain.

Let’s look at a couple of beginner stitches that will be useful for you.

Crocheting a Slip Stitch (Sl St)

A slip stitch, also abbreviated as sl st, is typically used to join your work or make very small stitches.

Slip stitches aren’t usually used in the starting chain, as it can be difficult to crochet into such a small space, but you can practice a slip stitch into yours if you’d like.

Steps to Slip Stitch (sl st):

Insert your hook into the 2nd chain of your foundation chain, or into the stitch.
Grab your yarn with your crochet hook (yarn over), pull the yarn through your chain (or stitch). You will have what looks like two loops on your hook.
Pull the yarn all the way through or in other words, pull the loop closest to your hook through the second loop.

Crocheting a Single Crochet (Sc)

A single crochet, also abbreviated as sc, is a very common stitch used. I suggest practicing going down your starting chain with this stitch first.

Single crochets are used for many projects and are typically the only stitch used if you’re making crochet toys (also called amigurumi).

They are a little taller than slip stitches, but shorter than double crochets.

Steps to single crochet (sc):

Insert your hook into the second chain from your crochet hook (or into the next stitch). Inserting it into the first chain doesn’t really work, you can try it if you want to see what I mean.
Grab your yarn with your crochet hook (yarn over), pull the yarn through the chain. You should have two loops on your hook.
Yarn over again and pull it through both loops on your hook.
Move onto the next chain and practice another single crochet. Try not to single crochet in the same chain you just single crocheted into.

Crocheting a Double Crochet (Dc)

A double crochet, also abbreviated as dc, is another common stitch used in many crochet patterns.

Double crochets are much taller than single crochets. Patterns like blankets, will use this stitch to achieve the desired length or height quickly.

Steps to double crochet (dc):

Grab your yarn with your hook/wrap it around your hook (yarn over) then insert your hook into the third chain from your crochet hook.
Yarn over again and pull it through your chain (you should have three loops on your hook).
Yarn over again and pull it through the first two loops on your hook (you should have two loops on your hook).
Yarn over again (yes I know), and pull it through the last two loops on your hook.

Chaining and Turning Your Work Again

Once you reach the end of your starting chain with single or double crochets, you’ll need to keep building on top of your stitches.

I find that chaining a number of chains first and then turning works better, but you can turn your work first and then chain if you prefer.

Your pattern should tell you how many chains to chain, if you’re planning on single crocheting in the first stitch of your next row, chain 1.

If you’re planning on double crocheting in the first stitch of your next row, chain 3.

Your pattern will also tell you whether or not your chains are going to be considered a stitch or not, this will determine which stitch you crochet into first.

Single crochet or double crochet into your first stitch and every stitch down your row.

Chain and turn your work again. Be sure to count your stitches as it’s easy to skip a stitch after turning your work.

Continue this way until you’ve reached the height you desire.

Finishing Your Crochet Project and Weaving in Yarn Ends

Once you’ve reached the length and height of your crochet project, leave a little length of yarn and cut it with your scissors.

Pull the rest of the yarn through with your crochet hook.

With your tapestry needle, thread your yarn through the eye of the needle and weave in and out through your stitches to hide the yarn. Make sure the yarn is weaved securely and cut off any excess.

Wrapping Up…

These are the basic steps you should take in order to learn how to crochet. Remember, grab your yarn and hook, make a starting chain, crochet back into the starting chain and build on top of your stitches, cut your yarn and weave in your ends.

As a beginner crocheter, I learned a lot from video tutorials (there’s tons out there). I would slow down the play back speed of any video tutorial if you find that they’re going to fast.

Start small. Try out small, beginner projects first like a square coaster, dishcloth, or bracelets until you get a feel for what stitches look like and get better at crocheting.

Don’t be afraid to post questions online to other fellow crocheters if you’re not sure how to read a pattern or are stuck. r/crochet on Reddit is a fairly active and helpful source of crochet information.

Good luck and happy crocheting!

Crochet Veil Pattern – Infinity Snowflakes

by strommercrafts / December 13, 2022

Hello everyone! Today I am presenting another beautiful crochet veil pattern that you can wear to mass.

I still don’t see too many crochet veil patterns for free available, so I thought I would make another one for you.

This crochet veil is made in a lacey fashion with a simple 2 row repeat. The lacey stitches gives the veil the appearance of having stars or snowflakes, which I think is wonderful, especially this time of year!

My last crochet veil has a floral appearance, which you should check out if you enjoy this pattern.

This veil is also made in an infinity veil style.

Like with my previous crochet veil pattern, this one does take a little bit of time to complete, but it looks so beautiful when finished.

I believe this took me about 2-3 weeks of irregular crocheting (anywhere from 0-3 hours a day) to get done. Once you get the hang of the repeat rows, it’s a nice pattern to do while you listen to a podcast or watch your favorite show (or take to the park while your kids run around!).

You can easily adjust the size of the crochet veil if you wish. The starting chain is a repeat of 16 + 7. This means that you will be chaining a series of 16 chains until you reach your desired length and then add 7 chains to the end of that.

I suggest using stitch markers or writing down the number of chains you have for your starting chain so you don’t get lost, especially if you’re like me and easily distracted or need to help a kiddo or two in the meantime!

Also, don’t get too discouraged if your starting chain doesn’t end exactly as it should on the first row.

I found that it’s fairly easy to miss or skip extra chains on accident, especially after you single crochet twice into the same chain…it makes the next chain easy to miss when counting.

If you don’t end up with exactly 4 remaining chains at the end of the first row, it’ll be ok. Nobody is going to know or tell that you’re missing a chain or two, everything will work out :).

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials

1.65 mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Classic White Cotton Yarn 1000 Yards Size 10 x 1
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet

Special Stitches

Ch 3 Picot – ch 3, sl st into sc previously made

Crochet Veil Pattern – Infinity Snowflakes

Ch 279 or a repeat of 16 + 7.

Row 1: Insert into 11th ch from hook and make a sc, *ch 4, skip 3 chs and (sc in the next ch, ch 6, sc in the same ch), ch 4, skip 3 chs, sc in next ch* repeat from *to* until you have 4 chs left before the last ch, ch 4, sc in last ch.

Row 2: Ch 6, turn, *ch 4, skip ch 4, (sc in next sc, ch 6, sc in same sc), ch 4, skip ch 4, sc in ch 6 space,* repeat from *to* until the end (you should end with a (sc, ch 6, sc)), ch 4, skip 3 chs and sc in next ch.

Row 3: Ch 6, turn, *sc in ch 6 space, ch 4, skip ch 4, (sc in next sc, ch 6, sc in same sc), ch 4,* repeat from *to* until end of row, ch 4, skip 3 chs, sc in next ch.

Repeat rows 2-3 until desired length is reached, ending on a row 3 repeat.

Trim: Ch 1, turn, *4 sc in ch 4 space, skip next sc, 4 sc in next ch 4 space, 2 sc in ch 6 space/loop, ch 3 picot, 2 sc in same ch 6 space/loop,* repeat from *to* until end of row, 4 sc in ch 4 space, skip next sc, 4 sc in last ch 4 space.

Do not cut your yarn.

Sewing: Fold your veil in half (short side to short side), with your yarn still on your hook, sl st into the first sc from the trim row, sl st into both sides of the veil into every ch until the bottom. It’s important to line up the chs on both sides as evenly as possible to create a straight seam.

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in any ends with your tapestry needle.

Thank you for trying out this crochet veil pattern, I hope you enjoyed making it! Have a Merry Christmas everyone!

Crochet Bear Hat Pattern – Sizes Newborn to Adult

by strommercrafts / November 21, 2022

Hello everyone! Today I have for you a crochet bear hat pattern in sizes newborn to adult.

I think these crochet bear hats are so cute for both boys and girls!

I am using Soft Secret in Cocoa, Fog and Denim by Yarn Bee for this pattern. I believe you can only find this yarn at Hobby Lobby, but if you don’t feel like purchasing there, Caron Simply Soft Yarn feels very similar to this yarn in softness and weight and can be found at multiple retailers.

Two things that I love about using Yarn Bee’s Soft Secret yarn is; 1) I love how soft it is, even for a 100% acrylic yarn and 2) it’s pleasantly stretchy. So two great qualities for making crochet hats in my opinion.

I have multiple sizes for the hat listed below based on average head sizes for age. I always recommend obtaining an accurate head circumference measurement from yourself or whoever you’re crocheting the hat for in order to get the best fitting hat.

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together
- Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over again, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook).
- Yarn over once more, pull through all 5 loops.

Materials Needed:

Soft Secret in Cocoa by Yarn Bee x 1 skein (300 yards)
Soft Secret in Fog by Yarn Bee x 1 skein (300 yards)
Soft Secret in Denim by Yarn Bee x 1 skein (300 yards)
4 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Stitch Marker (scrap piece of yarn or paperclip can work instead)
Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape (optional)
Pins (optional)

Special Instructions:

The ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.
Slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, not the beginning chain when completing a round.
The number in () at the end of the round indicates the number of stitches you should have when completing that round.
For the bear ears – crochet in a continuous round, this means that we will not be slip stitching to the first st and chaining 1 like we have been with the hat. Continue crocheting with the next round at the end of your current round. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.

Crochet Bear Hat Pattern

Newborn-3 Months

| Head Circumference: 13-14 inches | Crown Size: 3.5-5 inches | Hat Length: 4.5-6 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7-15 (or until desired length): Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 16: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Newborn-3 Months):

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: 1 hdc in each st around (24 sts
Round 5: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 6: hdc2tog around, sl st to first st (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through.

See below for assembly.

3-6 Months

| Head Circumference: 14-15 inches | Crown Size: 5-5.25 inches | Hat Length: 6-6.25 inches

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9-17 (or until desired length): Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around (64 sts)
Round 18: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (3-6 Months)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: 1 hdc in each st around (24 sts
Round 5: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 6: hdc2tog around, sl st to first st (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through

See below for assembly.

6-12 Months

| Head Circumference: 16-17 inches | Crown Size: 5.25-5.5 inches | Hat Length: 6.25-6.5 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)
Round 10-18 (or until desired length): Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around (72 sts)
Round 19: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (6-12 Months)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: *2 hdc in next st,1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 5: 1 hdc in each st around (32 sts)
Round 6: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 7: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 8: hdc2tog around, join with sl st (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through

See below for assembly.

Toddler (1-3 Years)

| Head Circumference: 18-19 inches | Crown Size: 6-6.25 inches | Hat Length: 7.25-7.5 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts) Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (80 sts)
Round 11-22: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (80 sts)
Round 23: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Toddler 1-3 Years)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: *2 hdc in next st,1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 5: 1 hdc in each st around (32 sts)
Round 6: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 7: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 8: hdc2tog around, join with sl st (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through.

See below for assembly.

Child (3-10 Years)

| Head Circumference: 19-20 inches | Crown Size: 6.25-6.5 inches | Hat Length: 7.5-8 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (80 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 9 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (88 sts)
Round 12-23: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (88 sts)
Round 24: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hd in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (80 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Child 3-10 Years)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: *2 hdc in next st,1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 5: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to* (40 sts)
Round 6: 1 hdc in each st around (40 sts)
Round 7: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 8: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 9: *hdc2tog, in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 10: hdc2tog around (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through.

See below for assembly.

Teen/Adult

| Head Circumference: 20-22 inches | Crown Size: 7 inches | Hat Length: 8.5-9 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (80 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 9 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (88 sts)
Round 12: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 10 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (96 sts)
Round 13-24: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around (96 sts)
Round 25: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 9 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (88 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Teen/Adult)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: *2 hdc in next st,1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 5: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to* (40 sts)
Round 6: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to* (48 sts)
Round 7: 1 hdc in each st around (48 sts)
Round 8: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to* (40 sts)
Round 9: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 10:*hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 11: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 1 sts,* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 12: hdc2tog around (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through

See below for assembly.

Crochet Bear Hat Assembly

Sew the bottoms of your bear ears shut with your extra long tail of yarn by folding the bottom together.
Make sure you are looking at the very front of your hat.
I suggest using pins to keep your bear ears in place while you sew onto the hat with your tapestry needle.
If you don’t have pins, count out from the center of the top of the hat evenly on both sides.
Sew the ears securely, especially if your sewing child size and up ears, the bigger the ears, the floppier they are.
Cut any extra yarn with scissors.

Thank you for checking out my crochet bear hat pattern! I hope your hat turned out great!

This post was all about how to crochet a bear hat in sizes newborn to adult!

Did you make this pattern? Tag me on Instagram @strommer_crafts!

Crochet Chunky Hat Pattern

by strommercrafts / November 12, 2022

Hello everyone, today I have a crochet chunky hat pattern available for you. With the temperature dropping outside and the wind getting chilly, I’ve been getting the motivation to crochet a few hats for the kids.

In this post, you will learn how to crochet a chunky hat in multiple sizes!

I’m using Bernat Acrylic Softee Chunky Yarn in Natural color for this hat pattern. There’s a few reasons why I love using chunky yarn for hats; 1) crochet patterns work up very quickly with bulkier yarn, 2) the bulky yarn keeps you warmer than your typical medium weight yarn.

When crocheting hats, you’ll get the most accurate size if you measure the circumference of the head of whoever you’re making it for. If you don’t have a tape measure handy, no worries! I have sizes newborn to adult available, but keep in mind these are estimates of average head sizes.

Under the different sizes/age groups, I have averages of head circumference, hat length and crown size.

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials:

Bernat Acrylic Softee Chunky Yarn in Natural x 1 skein
L/8 mm Crochet Hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Tape Measure (optional)

Abbreviations:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK

Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Hdc – half double crochet

Special Instructions:

You may start your first round with a magic ring/circle or ch 2 and crochet in the first ch.
The beginning chain of each round does not count as a stitch
Slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, not the beginning chain when completing a round.
For the best fitting hat, I suggest obtaining the head circumference of who you’re crocheting the hat for.

Crochet Chunky Hat Pattern

Newborn-3 Months

| Head Circumference: 13-14 inches | Hat Length: 4.5-6 inches | Crown Diameter: 3.75 inches

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5-9 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around (24 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

3-6 Months

| Head Circumference: 14-15 inches | Hat Length: 6-6.25 inches | Crown Size: 5-5.25 inches |

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (28 sts)
Round 6-11 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (28 sts)
Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

6-12 Months

| Head Circumference: 16-17 inches | Hat Length: 6.25-6.5 inches | Crown Size: 5.25-5.5 inches |

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6-12 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (30 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Toddler 1-3 Years

| Head Circumference: 18-19 inches | Hat Length: 7.25-7.5 inches | Crown Size: 5.5-6 inches

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 14 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 7-13 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (32 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Child 3-10 Years

| Head Circumference: 19-21 inches | Hat Length: 7.5 inches | Crown Size: 6-6.25 inches

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (42 sts)
Round 8-13: ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (42 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Teen/Small Adult

| Head Circumference: 20-21 inches | Hat Length: 8-8.5 inches | Crown Size: 6.5-7 inches |

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (42 sts)
Round 8-14 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (42 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Adult Medium

| Head Circumference: 22 inches | Hat Length: 8.5-9 inches | Crown Size 7-7.5 inches |

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 8: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 9 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (44 sts)
Round 9-15 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (44 sts)
Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Adult Large

| Head Circumference: 23 inches | Hat Length: 9-9.5 inches | Crown Size: 7.5-8 inches

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 9-17 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (48 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions

Pom Poms

How to make a pom pom for your crochet chunky hat:

Take your yarn and wrap it around 4 of your fingers about x times (see sizes below) (don’t wrap too tightly, you don’t want to hurt your fingers). Carefully slide it off your hand, lay on top of one of your 12 in pieces of yarn.

Take both ends of the cut piece of yarn and tie a tight knot in the middle of your wrapped yarn. For extra security, flip your wrapped yarn over and tie another knot on the other side. If your yarn is not tight, your pom pom may unravel.

Leave enough length to sew onto the hat.

Take your scissors and cut through all the loops on both sides of the bundle.

Fluff your pom pom and cut any missed loops. Shape it up and neaten the pom pom by trimming any long pieces.

Sew pom poms onto top of hat, I suggest counting evenly from the center of the top of the hat for both sides. Or if you’re making just one pom pom, sew directly on the top of the crochet chunky hat.

Newborn-12 Months Pom Pom Size

Cut 2, 12 in pieces of yarn. Lay aside.

Take your yarn and wrap it around 4 of your fingers about 30 times. Follow instructions above.

Toddler (1-3 Years) Pom Pom Size

Cut 2, 14 in pieces of yarn Lay aside.

Take your yarn and wrap it around 4 of your fingers about 40 times. Follow instructions above.

Child (3-10 Years) Pom Pom Size

Cut 2 18 in pieces of yarn, lay aside.

Wrap yarn around 4 of your fingers about 60 times. Follow instructions above.

Teen-Large Adult Pom Pom Size

Cut 2 18-20 in pieces of yarn, lay aside.

Wrap yarn around 4 of your fingers about 65-70 times. Follow instructions above.

Thank you for trying out this Crochet Chunky Hat Pattern, I hope you enjoyed it. Try out single or double pom poms on the top (I personally love the double pom pom for my girls!).

Crochet Chevron Baby Blanket

by strommercrafts / October 11, 2022

Hello, I hope everyone is having a great fall so far! With the weather getting cooler, it’s a lot easier for me to crochet blankets. So today I thought I would share my crochet chevron baby blanket pattern.

As with many crochet patterns, it’s easy to get a hang of once you have completed a few rows.

I use half double crochet in the second loop to create a nice texture. You don’t have to do it that way, but the texture looks great using only one color of yarn.

If you’re not sure what crocheting in the second loop means, no worries, we will discuss this later.

You will also need to be comfortable doing a hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 stitches together). Again, I will discuss how to do this further down.

The crochet chevron baby blanket is made with Aran from Red Heart Super Saver, but as always, feel free to use whatever yarn color you like.

You may notice that Red Heart Super Saver is cost effective, but tends to feel a little rough or scratchy. This is because it is made with acrylic. I like to wash my baby blankets made from acrylic with my clothes, and add a bit of fabric softener. I place mine in the dryer with all my clothes and have had good success in making the blanket feel softer.

Please note that some of the links in this post are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Aran by Red Heart Super Saver x 2 jumbo skeins (744 yards per skein)
5 mm Crochet Hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations Used:

Ch – chain
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches together

Helpful Tips:

There will always be 11 stitches on each side of the chevron.
At the top, there will always be 3 hdc in one stitch and you will always skip 2 stitches at the bottom. This creates the lovely chevron or zig zag pattern.
How to hdc2tog:
- yarn over, insert your hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (you have 3 loops on your hook).
- yarn over again, insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (you have 5 loops on your hook), pull yarn through all 5 loops.
To crochet in the second loop only, look down from the top of your stitches. You should notice that crochet stitches typically have a V shape. Instead of inserting your hook into the next stitch as normal, insert your hook into the part of the V that is farthest away from you.

Crochet Chevron Baby Blanket Pattern:

Ch 178

If you need to adjust the size of the crochet chevron baby blanket, the math is; (ch 25 sts + 3 sts). In simpler terms, chain a multiple of 25 and add 3 chains when you have reached the desired length.

Row 1: Insert into 2nd ch from hook, hdc2tog, *hdc in next 11 chs, 3 hdc in next ch, hdc in next 11 chs, skip 2 chs*, repeat from *to* until last 11 hdcs, you will have 2 chs left at the end of the row, hdc2tog
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, in the back loop only (and from here on out) hdc2tog, *hdc in next 11 sts, 3 hdc in next st (this should be in the middle of the 3 hdc from the previous row), hdc in next 11 sts, skip 2 sts* repeat from *to.*

Repeat row 2 until you’ve reached your desired length. Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

The Crochet Chevron Baby Blanket is a beautiful way to make a one color blanket. You can see in the pictures how the texture looks, this is all because we crocheted in the back loop only.

Thank you and I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern, until next time.

Patterns

Crochet Shell Baby Blanket – Free Pattern

by strommercrafts / September 9, 2022

Hello everyone, today I have a crochet shell baby blanket pattern for you.

This crochet blanket is made up of a series of stitches that creates a beautiful shells. This pattern is ideal for baby blankets, especially newborn girls, as the shells give the blanket feminine features.

For the blanket pictured, I only used 1 skein of Lion Brand’s Feels like Butta Yarn in Pale Grey. With just 1 skein you can make a good sized stroller or carseat blanket, but you wouldn’t be able to wrap a newborn in it.

For a typical newborn blanket (which is usually about 36 in x 36 in), you’ll need two skeins of Lion Brand’s Feels like Butta Yarn in Pale Grey.

I’ve used this specific yarn before to make burp cloths and winter hats, and I have to say, this is probably the softest acrylic yarn that I’ve worked with. Many acrylic yarns have a scratchy feeling that makes it less than ideal for crochet baby items (washing can soften it up, but it just isn’t the same!).

Lion Brand’s Feels like Butta Yarn is incredibly soft and gives the blanket a nice “squishy” feel. I absolutely love the colors that come from this yarn line. Obviously you don’t have to use the Pale Grey color, but the other colors available are of a softer palette and are great for making baby blankets.

The crochet shell baby blanket is made with one color of yarn and from the center out. If you’ve never made a blanket like this before, don’t worry! It’s not too complicated, and if you don’t like using a magic circle to start, you can always chain 2 and insert your hook into the first chain.

I like making many baby blanket from the center out because no matter when you run out of yarn, you’ll always have a fairly even square!

Size:

With 1 skein of Feels like Butta Yarn, the size will be about 26 in x 26 in.
With 2 skeins, you can crochet a normal sized baby blanket, about 36 in x 36 in.

Materials Needed:

5 mm crochet hook
1-2 skeins of Feels like Butta Yarn by Lion Brand in Pale Grey
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Mc – magic circle
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc- double crochet
Shell – 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc all in the same st

Crochet Shell Baby Blanket

Round 1: Mc (alternatively you can ch 2 and work in the 1st ch), ch 3 (counts as a dc and ch 1), *dc, ch 1 in mc* repeat from *to* 7 times, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch 3 (you will have 8 dcs and 8 ch 1s).

Round 2: Sl st into next ch 1 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same ch 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in same ch 1 space (first shell complete), *sc in next ch 1 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until last shell completed, sc in last ch 1 space, sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1), dc in the sc behind the ch 4 (the last sc of the previous round), ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc) in same sc. *Ch 5, skip the next shell, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 3, dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat from *to* until the last corner completed, ch 5, sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 space, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in same space. Sc in ch 3 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space (first corner complete). *Grab the ch 5 from previous row by sc into next ch 1 space of the shell while crocheting over the ch 5 at the same time, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until last corner made, grab the ch 5, sc in next ch 1 space, sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 5: Ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1), dc in the sc behind the ch 4 (the last sc of the previous round), *ch 5, skip the next shell, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 3, dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc (first corner complete), ch 5, skip the next shell, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat from *to* until last corner made, ch 5, sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 6: Sl st into next ch 1 space, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in same space, grab the ch 5 from previous row by sc into next ch 1 space of shell while crocheting over the ch 5, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space (first corner complete). *Grab the ch 5 from previous row by sc into next ch 1 space of shell while crocheting over the ch 5, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space, grab the ch 5 from previous row by sc into next ch 1 space of shell while crocheting over the ch 5 again, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until after last corner made, grab the ch 5, sc in next ch 1 space, sl st to top of ch 3.

Continue growing your blanket in this fashion, by repeating Rounds 5 and 6, but growing the sides between the corners longer.

Remember to place (dc, ch 1, dc) in the scs on the long side, ch 5 and (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 3, dc, ch 1, dc) in the corners of Round 5.

Stop at desired size on a Round 6 repeat, cut yarn with scissors and weave in end with tapestry needle.

That’s it! Please let me know in the comments below if you enjoyed this pattern or have any questions!

Thank you for reading this post on how to make a Crochet Shell Baby Blanket.

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Newborn-3 Months

| Head Circumference: 13-14 inches | Hat Height: 4.5-6 inches |

Ribbing:

Body of Hat:

3-6 Months

| Head Circumference: 14-15 inches | Hat Height: 6-6.25 inches |

Ribbing:

Body of Hat:

6-12 Months

| Head Circumference: 16-18 inches | Hat Height: 6.25-6.5 inches |

Ribbing:

Body of Hat:

Toddler

| Head Circumference: 18-19 inches | Hat Height: 7.25-7.5 inches |

Ribbing:

Body of Hat:

Child

| Head Circumference: 19-20 inches | Hat Height: 7.5-8 inches |

Ribbing:

Body of Hat:

Teenager/Small Adult

| Head Circumference: 20-21 inches | Hat Height: 8-8.5 inches |

Ribbing:

Body of Hat:

Adult

| Head Circumference: 22 inches | Hat Height: 8.5-9 inches |

Ribbing:

Body of Hat:

Large Adult

| Head Circumference: 23 inches | Hat Height: 9-9.5 inches |

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Body of Hat:

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Bottom Ribbing:

Sleeves x2:

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Wrapping Up…

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