Crochet Bear Hat Pattern – Sizes Newborn to Adult

by strommercrafts / November 21, 2022

Hello everyone! Today I have for you a crochet bear hat pattern in sizes newborn to adult.

I think these crochet bear hats are so cute for both boys and girls!

I am using Soft Secret in Cocoa, Fog and Denim by Yarn Bee for this pattern. I believe you can only find this yarn at Hobby Lobby, but if you don’t feel like purchasing there, Caron Simply Soft Yarn feels very similar to this yarn in softness and weight and can be found at multiple retailers.

Two things that I love about using Yarn Bee’s Soft Secret yarn is; 1) I love how soft it is, even for a 100% acrylic yarn and 2) it’s pleasantly stretchy. So two great qualities for making crochet hats in my opinion.

I have multiple sizes for the hat listed below based on average head sizes for age. I always recommend obtaining an accurate head circumference measurement from yourself or whoever you’re crocheting the hat for in order to get the best fitting hat.

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together
- Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over again, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook).
- Yarn over once more, pull through all 5 loops.

Materials Needed:

Soft Secret in Cocoa by Yarn Bee x 1 skein (300 yards)
Soft Secret in Fog by Yarn Bee x 1 skein (300 yards)
Soft Secret in Denim by Yarn Bee x 1 skein (300 yards)
4 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Stitch Marker (scrap piece of yarn or paperclip can work instead)
Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape (optional)
Pins (optional)

Special Instructions:

The ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.
Slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, not the beginning chain when completing a round.
The number in () at the end of the round indicates the number of stitches you should have when completing that round.
For the bear ears – crochet in a continuous round, this means that we will not be slip stitching to the first st and chaining 1 like we have been with the hat. Continue crocheting with the next round at the end of your current round. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.

Crochet Bear Hat Pattern

Newborn-3 Months

| Head Circumference: 13-14 inches | Crown Size: 3.5-5 inches | Hat Length: 4.5-6 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7-15 (or until desired length): Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 16: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Newborn-3 Months):

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: 1 hdc in each st around (24 sts
Round 5: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 6: hdc2tog around, sl st to first st (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through.

See below for assembly.

3-6 Months

| Head Circumference: 14-15 inches | Crown Size: 5-5.25 inches | Hat Length: 6-6.25 inches

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9-17 (or until desired length): Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around (64 sts)
Round 18: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (3-6 Months)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: 1 hdc in each st around (24 sts
Round 5: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 6: hdc2tog around, sl st to first st (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through

See below for assembly.

6-12 Months

| Head Circumference: 16-17 inches | Crown Size: 5.25-5.5 inches | Hat Length: 6.25-6.5 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)
Round 10-18 (or until desired length): Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around (72 sts)
Round 19: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (6-12 Months)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: *2 hdc in next st,1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 5: 1 hdc in each st around (32 sts)
Round 6: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 7: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 8: hdc2tog around, join with sl st (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through

See below for assembly.

Toddler (1-3 Years)

| Head Circumference: 18-19 inches | Crown Size: 6-6.25 inches | Hat Length: 7.25-7.5 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts) Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (80 sts)
Round 11-22: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (80 sts)
Round 23: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Toddler 1-3 Years)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: *2 hdc in next st,1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 5: 1 hdc in each st around (32 sts)
Round 6: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 7: *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 8: hdc2tog around, join with sl st (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through.

See below for assembly.

Child (3-10 Years)

| Head Circumference: 19-20 inches | Crown Size: 6.25-6.5 inches | Hat Length: 7.5-8 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (80 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 9 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (88 sts)
Round 12-23: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (88 sts)
Round 24: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hd in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (80 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Child 3-10 Years)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: *2 hdc in next st,1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 5: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to* (40 sts)
Round 6: 1 hdc in each st around (40 sts)
Round 7: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 8: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 9: *hdc2tog, in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 10: hdc2tog around (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through.

See below for assembly.

Teen/Adult

| Head Circumference: 20-22 inches | Crown Size: 7 inches | Hat Length: 8.5-9 inches |

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in the first ch), sl st to first st (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (64 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (72 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (80 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 9 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (88 sts)
Round 12: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 10 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (96 sts)
Round 13-24: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around (96 sts)
Round 25: Ch 1, *hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 9 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (88 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Teen/Adult)

Round 1: 8 hdc in magic ring/circle (alternatively ch 2 and crochet 8 hdc in first ch) (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 4: *2 hdc in next st,1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 5: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to* (40 sts)
Round 6: *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to* (48 sts)
Round 7: 1 hdc in each st around (48 sts)
Round 8: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to* (40 sts)
Round 9: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to* (32 sts)
Round 10:*hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to* (24 sts)
Round 11: *hdc2tog in next st, 1 hdc in next 1 sts,* repeat from *to* (16 sts)
Round 12: hdc2tog around (8 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors (leave enough yarn for sewing onto the hat), pull through

See below for assembly.

Crochet Bear Hat Assembly

Sew the bottoms of your bear ears shut with your extra long tail of yarn by folding the bottom together.
Make sure you are looking at the very front of your hat.
I suggest using pins to keep your bear ears in place while you sew onto the hat with your tapestry needle.
If you don’t have pins, count out from the center of the top of the hat evenly on both sides.
Sew the ears securely, especially if your sewing child size and up ears, the bigger the ears, the floppier they are.
Cut any extra yarn with scissors.

Thank you for checking out my crochet bear hat pattern! I hope your hat turned out great!

This post was all about how to crochet a bear hat in sizes newborn to adult!

Did you make this pattern? Tag me on Instagram @strommer_crafts!

Crochet Chunky Hat Pattern

by strommercrafts / November 12, 2022

Hello everyone, today I have a crochet chunky hat pattern available for you. With the temperature dropping outside and the wind getting chilly, I’ve been getting the motivation to crochet a few hats for the kids.

In this post, you will learn how to crochet a chunky hat in multiple sizes!

I’m using Bernat Acrylic Softee Chunky Yarn in Natural color for this hat pattern. There’s a few reasons why I love using chunky yarn for hats; 1) crochet patterns work up very quickly with bulkier yarn, 2) the bulky yarn keeps you warmer than your typical medium weight yarn.

When crocheting hats, you’ll get the most accurate size if you measure the circumference of the head of whoever you’re making it for. If you don’t have a tape measure handy, no worries! I have sizes newborn to adult available, but keep in mind these are estimates of average head sizes.

Under the different sizes/age groups, I have averages of head circumference, hat length and crown size.

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials:

Bernat Acrylic Softee Chunky Yarn in Natural x 1 skein
L/8 mm Crochet Hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Tape Measure (optional)

Abbreviations:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK

Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Hdc – half double crochet

Special Instructions:

You may start your first round with a magic ring/circle or ch 2 and crochet in the first ch.
The beginning chain of each round does not count as a stitch
Slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, not the beginning chain when completing a round.
For the best fitting hat, I suggest obtaining the head circumference of who you’re crocheting the hat for.

Crochet Chunky Hat Pattern

Newborn-3 Months

| Head Circumference: 13-14 inches | Hat Length: 4.5-6 inches | Crown Diameter: 3.75 inches

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5-9 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around (24 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

3-6 Months

| Head Circumference: 14-15 inches | Hat Length: 6-6.25 inches | Crown Size: 5-5.25 inches |

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (28 sts)
Round 6-11 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (28 sts)
Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

6-12 Months

| Head Circumference: 16-17 inches | Hat Length: 6.25-6.5 inches | Crown Size: 5.25-5.5 inches |

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6-12 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (30 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Toddler 1-3 Years

| Head Circumference: 18-19 inches | Hat Length: 7.25-7.5 inches | Crown Size: 5.5-6 inches

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 14 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
Round 7-13 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (32 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Child 3-10 Years

| Head Circumference: 19-21 inches | Hat Length: 7.5 inches | Crown Size: 6-6.25 inches

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (42 sts)
Round 8-13: ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (42 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Teen/Small Adult

| Head Circumference: 20-21 inches | Hat Length: 8-8.5 inches | Crown Size: 6.5-7 inches |

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (42 sts)
Round 8-14 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (42 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Adult Medium

| Head Circumference: 22 inches | Hat Length: 8.5-9 inches | Crown Size 7-7.5 inches |

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
Round 8: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 9 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (44 sts)
Round 9-15 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (44 sts)
Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions.

Adult Large

| Head Circumference: 23 inches | Hat Length: 9-9.5 inches | Crown Size: 7.5-8 inches

Round 1: Make magic circle/ring (alternatively ch 2 and crochet in the first ch). Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch from here on out), 6 hdc in magic circle/ring, sl st to first st (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts,* repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
Round 9-17 (or until desired length): Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (48 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

See below for Pom Pom instructions

Pom Poms

How to make a pom pom for your crochet chunky hat:

Take your yarn and wrap it around 4 of your fingers about x times (see sizes below) (don’t wrap too tightly, you don’t want to hurt your fingers). Carefully slide it off your hand, lay on top of one of your 12 in pieces of yarn.

Take both ends of the cut piece of yarn and tie a tight knot in the middle of your wrapped yarn. For extra security, flip your wrapped yarn over and tie another knot on the other side. If your yarn is not tight, your pom pom may unravel.

Leave enough length to sew onto the hat.

Take your scissors and cut through all the loops on both sides of the bundle.

Fluff your pom pom and cut any missed loops. Shape it up and neaten the pom pom by trimming any long pieces.

Sew pom poms onto top of hat, I suggest counting evenly from the center of the top of the hat for both sides. Or if you’re making just one pom pom, sew directly on the top of the crochet chunky hat.

Newborn-12 Months Pom Pom Size

Cut 2, 12 in pieces of yarn. Lay aside.

Take your yarn and wrap it around 4 of your fingers about 30 times. Follow instructions above.

Toddler (1-3 Years) Pom Pom Size

Cut 2, 14 in pieces of yarn Lay aside.

Take your yarn and wrap it around 4 of your fingers about 40 times. Follow instructions above.

Child (3-10 Years) Pom Pom Size

Cut 2 18 in pieces of yarn, lay aside.

Wrap yarn around 4 of your fingers about 60 times. Follow instructions above.

Teen-Large Adult Pom Pom Size

Cut 2 18-20 in pieces of yarn, lay aside.

Wrap yarn around 4 of your fingers about 65-70 times. Follow instructions above.

Thank you for trying out this Crochet Chunky Hat Pattern, I hope you enjoyed it. Try out single or double pom poms on the top (I personally love the double pom pom for my girls!).

Crochet Chevron Baby Blanket

by strommercrafts / October 11, 2022

Hello, I hope everyone is having a great fall so far! With the weather getting cooler, it’s a lot easier for me to crochet blankets. So today I thought I would share my crochet chevron baby blanket pattern.

As with many crochet patterns, it’s easy to get a hang of once you have completed a few rows.

I use half double crochet in the second loop to create a nice texture. You don’t have to do it that way, but the texture looks great using only one color of yarn.

If you’re not sure what crocheting in the second loop means, no worries, we will discuss this later.

You will also need to be comfortable doing a hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 stitches together). Again, I will discuss how to do this further down.

The crochet chevron baby blanket is made with Aran from Red Heart Super Saver, but as always, feel free to use whatever yarn color you like.

You may notice that Red Heart Super Saver is cost effective, but tends to feel a little rough or scratchy. This is because it is made with acrylic. I like to wash my baby blankets made from acrylic with my clothes, and add a bit of fabric softener. I place mine in the dryer with all my clothes and have had good success in making the blanket feel softer.

Please note that some of the links in this post are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Aran by Red Heart Super Saver x 2 jumbo skeins (744 yards per skein)
5 mm Crochet Hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations Used:

Ch – chain
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches together

Helpful Tips:

There will always be 11 stitches on each side of the chevron.
At the top, there will always be 3 hdc in one stitch and you will always skip 2 stitches at the bottom. This creates the lovely chevron or zig zag pattern.
How to hdc2tog:
- yarn over, insert your hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (you have 3 loops on your hook).
- yarn over again, insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (you have 5 loops on your hook), pull yarn through all 5 loops.
To crochet in the second loop only, look down from the top of your stitches. You should notice that crochet stitches typically have a V shape. Instead of inserting your hook into the next stitch as normal, insert your hook into the part of the V that is farthest away from you.

Crochet Chevron Baby Blanket Pattern:

Ch 178

If you need to adjust the size of the crochet chevron baby blanket, the math is; (ch 25 sts + 3 sts). In simpler terms, chain a multiple of 25 and add 3 chains when you have reached the desired length.

Row 1: Insert into 2nd ch from hook, hdc2tog, *hdc in next 11 chs, 3 hdc in next ch, hdc in next 11 chs, skip 2 chs*, repeat from *to* until last 11 hdcs, you will have 2 chs left at the end of the row, hdc2tog
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, in the back loop only (and from here on out) hdc2tog, *hdc in next 11 sts, 3 hdc in next st (this should be in the middle of the 3 hdc from the previous row), hdc in next 11 sts, skip 2 sts* repeat from *to.*

Repeat row 2 until you’ve reached your desired length. Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

The Crochet Chevron Baby Blanket is a beautiful way to make a one color blanket. You can see in the pictures how the texture looks, this is all because we crocheted in the back loop only.

Thank you and I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern, until next time.

Patterns

Crochet Shell Baby Blanket – Free Pattern

by strommercrafts / September 9, 2022

Hello everyone, today I have a crochet shell baby blanket pattern for you.

This crochet blanket is made up of a series of stitches that creates a beautiful shells. This pattern is ideal for baby blankets, especially newborn girls, as the shells give the blanket feminine features.

For the blanket pictured, I only used 1 skein of Lion Brand’s Feels like Butta Yarn in Pale Grey. With just 1 skein you can make a good sized stroller or carseat blanket, but you wouldn’t be able to wrap a newborn in it.

For a typical newborn blanket (which is usually about 36 in x 36 in), you’ll need two skeins of Lion Brand’s Feels like Butta Yarn in Pale Grey.

I’ve used this specific yarn before to make burp cloths and winter hats, and I have to say, this is probably the softest acrylic yarn that I’ve worked with. Many acrylic yarns have a scratchy feeling that makes it less than ideal for crochet baby items (washing can soften it up, but it just isn’t the same!).

Lion Brand’s Feels like Butta Yarn is incredibly soft and gives the blanket a nice “squishy” feel. I absolutely love the colors that come from this yarn line. Obviously you don’t have to use the Pale Grey color, but the other colors available are of a softer palette and are great for making baby blankets.

The crochet shell baby blanket is made with one color of yarn and from the center out. If you’ve never made a blanket like this before, don’t worry! It’s not too complicated, and if you don’t like using a magic circle to start, you can always chain 2 and insert your hook into the first chain.

I like making many baby blanket from the center out because no matter when you run out of yarn, you’ll always have a fairly even square!

Size:

With 1 skein of Feels like Butta Yarn, the size will be about 26 in x 26 in.
With 2 skeins, you can crochet a normal sized baby blanket, about 36 in x 36 in.

Materials Needed:

5 mm crochet hook
1-2 skeins of Feels like Butta Yarn by Lion Brand in Pale Grey
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Mc – magic circle
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc- double crochet
Shell – 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc all in the same st

Crochet Shell Baby Blanket

Round 1: Mc (alternatively you can ch 2 and work in the 1st ch), ch 3 (counts as a dc and ch 1), *dc, ch 1 in mc* repeat from *to* 7 times, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch 3 (you will have 8 dcs and 8 ch 1s).

Round 2: Sl st into next ch 1 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same ch 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in same ch 1 space (first shell complete), *sc in next ch 1 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until last shell completed, sc in last ch 1 space, sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1), dc in the sc behind the ch 4 (the last sc of the previous round), ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc) in same sc. *Ch 5, skip the next shell, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 3, dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat from *to* until the last corner completed, ch 5, sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 space, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in same space. Sc in ch 3 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space (first corner complete). *Grab the ch 5 from previous row by sc into next ch 1 space of the shell while crocheting over the ch 5 at the same time, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until last corner made, grab the ch 5, sc in next ch 1 space, sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 5: Ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1), dc in the sc behind the ch 4 (the last sc of the previous round), *ch 5, skip the next shell, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 3, dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc (first corner complete), ch 5, skip the next shell, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat from *to* until last corner made, ch 5, sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 6: Sl st into next ch 1 space, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in same space, grab the ch 5 from previous row by sc into next ch 1 space of shell while crocheting over the ch 5, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space (first corner complete). *Grab the ch 5 from previous row by sc into next ch 1 space of shell while crocheting over the ch 5, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space, grab the ch 5 from previous row by sc into next ch 1 space of shell while crocheting over the ch 5 again, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until after last corner made, grab the ch 5, sc in next ch 1 space, sl st to top of ch 3.

Continue growing your blanket in this fashion, by repeating Rounds 5 and 6, but growing the sides between the corners longer.

Remember to place (dc, ch 1, dc) in the scs on the long side, ch 5 and (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 3, dc, ch 1, dc) in the corners of Round 5.

Stop at desired size on a Round 6 repeat, cut yarn with scissors and weave in end with tapestry needle.

That’s it! Please let me know in the comments below if you enjoyed this pattern or have any questions!

Thank you for reading this post on how to make a Crochet Shell Baby Blanket.

Patterns

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 4/4

by strommercrafts / August 30, 2022

Hey there everyone, today I have Part 4 of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner for you today, plus the border!

At this point, Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3 should be completed.

We are still using the 3DC method of filet crocheting in this pattern, and I will continue to describe how many open and closed squares you should have in a row.

Remember: an open square consists of a DC, CH1, skip a st, and DC, and a closed square is 3DC in a row.

As always, the PDF chart of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner is available below, I highly encourage looking at the chart to help visualize the open and closed square placements. The black squares = closed squares and the white squares = open squares.

Materials:

White Crochet Thread from Red Heart Super Saver Size 10, 1000 yards x 1
1.65 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Marker (optional)

Size:

10.5 in x 58 in

Please note that your size may differ depending on your tension

Abbreviations:

Please note that these are in US terms not UK

ST(s) – stitch(es)
SL ST – slip stitch
CH – chain
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
CH3 PICOT – chain 3 stitches, slip stitch in last stitch made

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern Part 4/4

Row 133: going down, turn, CH4 (counts as DC, CH1 from here on out), make 2 open squares, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares).
Row 134: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make 2 open squares. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares).
Row 135: going down, turn, CH4, make 2 open squares, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 136: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 137: going down, turn, CH4, make 2 open squares, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31, open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 138: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 139: going down, turn, CH4, make 2 open squares, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31, open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 140: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares before first closed square from previous row, make 8 closed squares, make 3 open squares. (30 open squares, 8 closed squares).
Row 141: going down, turn, CH4, make 3 open squares, make 9 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (29 open squares, 9 closed squares).
Row 142: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 9 closed squares, make 3 open squares. (29 open squares, 9 closed squares).
Row 143: going down, turn, CH4, make 4 open squares, make 9 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (29 open squares, 9 closed squares).
Row 144: going up, turn, CH4, make 8 open squares, make 7 closed squares, make 10 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 145: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 4 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make 6 open squares, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 146: going up, turn, CH4, make 8 open squares, make 12 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 147: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 13 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 148: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 15 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 149: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 14 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (24 open squares, 14 closed squares).
Row 150: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 14 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (24 open squares, 14 closed squares).
Row 151: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 152: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 153: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 4 open squares, make 10 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 154: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 155: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 15 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 156: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 15 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 157: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 2 open squares, make 13 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (24 open squares, 14 closed squares).
Row 158: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make 4 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 159: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 5 open squares, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (24 open squares, 14 closed squares).
Row 160: going up, turn, CH4, make 7 open squares, make 14 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 161: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 15 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (19 open squares, 19 closed squares).
Row 162: going up, turn, CH4, make 4 open squares, make 16 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (18 open squares, 20 closed squares).
Row 163: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 18 closed squares, make 2 open squares. (16 open squares, 22 closed squares).
Row 164: going up, turn, CH4, make 2 open squares, make 7 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 12 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (17 open squares, 21 closed squares).
Row 165: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 12 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 3 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make 2 open squares. (21 open squares, 17 closed squares).
Row 166: going up, turn, CH4, make 2 open squares, make 6 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 10 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (20 open squares, 18 closed squares).
Row 167: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 8 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 10 closed squares, make 3 open squares. (20 open squares, 18 closed squares).
Row 168: going up, turn, CH4, make 3 open squares, make 3 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 3 closed squares, make 4 open squares, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 169: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 170: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 13 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 171: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 3 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (29 open squares, 9 closed squares).
Row 172: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 173: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 more open squares, make 8 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (30 open squares, 8 closed squares).
Row 174: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares, 3 closed squares).
Row 175-176: going up, then down, turn, CH4, make open squares until end of row. (38 open squares).

DON’T CUT YOUR YARN.

You now have the main part of the crochet Pikachu Table Runner completed.

I highly suggest crocheting the border on the table runner, as it gives it a polished look and a nice vintage vibe.

***Please note that the stitches on the long side before the corner will not line up evenly like on the short side***. This makes the border slightly off on those sides. I’ve made adjustments to the pattern to make it less noticeable, and when you’re finished it will be difficult to tell.

Here is a diagram of the pattern for the border I used.

Border:

Row 1: Turn, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in same st, sc in each st and ch 1 space across, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner spaces. Repeat on all sides. When crocheting down the sides of the table runner, sc in top of dc or ch 3 and in the middle of the “leg” of the dc or in one of the chs in the ch 3. Sl st to the first sc.

Row 2: Sl st into ch 1 space of corner (sc, ch 3, sc), sc in next 4 sts, *(ch 3, skip a st, sc in next st x3 times), sc in next 3 sts.* Repeat from *to* until you’ve reached the corner, sc in next st, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 1 corner space. Continue down the next side, after the very last (sc, ch 3, sc), sc in next 6 sts. Create the next (sc, ch 3, sc )corner in the ch 1 space. Continue until the last corner, after last (sc, ch 3, sc), sc in next 4 sts, sl st into first sc made.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, (sc, ch 5, sc) in ch 3 corner space. Sc in next st, *ch 5, skip 4 sts and sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 space, ch 3 and sc into last ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to,* until next corner. Ch 5, skip 4 sts, sc into next st, (sc, ch 5, sc) into next ch 3 corner space. Sc into next st and repeat from *to* again down the next side. At the next corner, ch 5, skip 7 sts, sc into next st. Continue until last corner, sl st into first sc made.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, sl st into ch 5 corner space, ch 3 (counts as dc), make 4 dc in same space, make ch 3 picot, make 4 more dc in same space, sc in next st. *4 dc in next ch 5 space, ch 3 picot, 4 more dc in ch 5 space, sc in next ch 3 space, ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to* until next corner. Continue all the way around, make sure to sc in st prior to and after corner spaces, sl st into first sc made.

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Pat yourself on the back for making it all the way to the end!

Thank you for reading my pattern, until next time!

Patterns

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 3/4

by strommercrafts / August 10, 2022

Hey everyone, today I have Part 3 of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern available for you! You should have Part 1 and Part 2 completed by this point.

If you are not familiar, I am using a technique called filet crochet to make this table runner. More specifically, the 3DC method of filet crochet.

Again, I will be describing the stitches as I did in Part 2. That is, I will be discussing where to place an open and closed square.

Remember: An open square consists of a DC, CH1, skip a st, DC. A closed square consists of 3 DC in a row.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials:

White Crochet Thread from Red Heart Super Saver Size 10, 1000 yards x 1
1.65 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Marker (optional)

Size:

10.5 in x 58 in

Please note that your size may differ depending on your tension

Abbreviations:

Please note that these are in US terms not UK

ST(s) – stitch(es)
SL ST – slip stitch
CH – chain
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
CH3 PICOT – chain 3 stitches, slip stitch in last stitch made

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 3/4:

Row 87: going down, turn, CH4, make 7 open squares, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares).
Row 88: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 closed square before previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares).
Row 89: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 90: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 91: going down, turn CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares).
Row 92: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares).
Row 93: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares).
Row 94: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 3 squares away from first closed square from previous row, make 8 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (30 open squares, 8 closed squares).
Row 95: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 8 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (30 open squares, 8 closed squares).
Row 96: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 3 squares away from first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 97: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 5 more open squares, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares).
Row 98: going up, turn, CH4, make 2 open squares, make 4 closed squares, make 11 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (28, open squares, 10 closed squares).
Row 99: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 more open squares, make 2 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 9 open squares, make 5 closed squares, make 2 open squares. (30 open squares, 8 closed squares).
Row 100: going up, turn, CH4, make 3 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 6 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 101: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 more open squares, make 11 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 3 open squares. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 102: going up, turn, CH4, make 4 open squares, make, 13 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 103: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 closed square before first closed square from previous row, make 13 closed squares, make 5 open squares. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 104: going up, turn, CH4, make 5 open squares, make 13 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 105: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 closed square before first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 2 open squares, make 11 closed squares, make 5 open squares. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 106: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 9 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 1 open square, make open squares until end of row. (28 open squares, 10 closed squares).
Row 107: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 square before first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 8 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 108: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 13 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 109: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 13 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 110: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 13 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares).
Row 111: going down, turn, CH4, make 12 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make 4 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 3 open squares, make 9 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 112: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 7 closed squares, make 4 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 4 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (28 open squares, 10 closed squares).
Row 113: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 square before first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 2 open squares, make 13 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 114: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 13 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make 3 open squares, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 115: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 13 closed squares. (21 open squares, 17 closed squares).
Row 116: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 12 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 117: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 16 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 118: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 119: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 12 closed squares. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 120: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 15 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 121: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 11 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 122: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 square before first closed square of previous row, make 5 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make 2 open squares, make 8 closed squares. (24 open squares, 14 closed squares).
Row 123: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 6 closed squares, make 4 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 124: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (24 open squares, 14 closed squares).
Row 125: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (24 open squares, 14 closed squares).
Row 126: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 4 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 127: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 10 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (24 open squares, 14 closed squares).
Row 128: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 more open squares, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 129: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 more open squares, make 6 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 130: going up, turn, CH4, make 16 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (36 open squares, 2 closed squares).
Row 131-132: going down, then going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until end of row. (38 open squares).

Pikachu number 3 is complete! Only 1 more to go!

Pat yourself on the back for making it this far. Take a break, let your hands rest, and we’ll continue on to Part 4 of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner.

Click here for Part 4.

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 2/4

by strommercrafts / July 26, 2022

If you’ve completed Part 1/4 of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner, you should be able to make open and closed squares without difficulty. I will be changing how I describe the following rows in part 2-4. Instead of describing the placement of CH1s and DCs, I’m going to tell you where to place open or closed squares.

Remember:

An open square consists of a series of (DC, CH1, skipping a ST or CH1 space, DC)
A closed square consists of a series of 3 DC, with the 2nd DC being in a ST or CH1 space.

You can download a PDF of the crochet Pikachu Table Runner below. I highly recommend looking at the chart as you go.

Another reminder; read this chart up and down and towards the right. Black squares = closed squares and white squares = open squares in this chart.

The CH4 counts as a DC and CH1 for each row.

Click here for Part 1.

Click here for Part 3.

Click here for Part 4.

Materials:

White Crochet Thread from Red Heart Super Saver Size 10, 1000 yards x 1
1.65 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Marker (optional)

Size:

10.5 in x 58 in

Please note that your size may differ depending on your tension.

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 2/4

Row 45: going down, turn, CH4, make 9 open squares, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares)
Row 46: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares)
Row 47: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until the first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares)
Row 48: going up, repeat row 47
Row 49: going down, turn, CH4, make 10 open squares (should have last open square on top of a closed square from previous row), make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares)
Row 50: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares)
Row 51: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares)
Row 52: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (28 open squares, 10 closed squares)
Row 53: going down, repeat row 52
Row 54: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make a closed square, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (34 open squares, 4 closed squares)
Row 55: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make a closed square, make open squares until end of row. (34 open squares, 4 closed squares)
Row 56: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares before the first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares, 3 closed squares)
Row 57: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (34 open squares, 4 closed squares)
Row 58: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make open squares until the end of row. (36 open squares, 2 closed squares) the second Pikachu’s tail is now complete
Row 59: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares)
Row 60: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares from first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares)
Row 61: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make open square until end of row. (27 open squares, 10 closed squares)
Row 62: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares)
Row 63: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 2 open squares, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares)
Row 64: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares before first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares)
Row 65: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 17 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (21 open squares, 17 closed squares)
Row 66: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 15 closed squares, make open square until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares)
Row 67: going down, turn, CH4, make open square until 4 open squares before first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 15 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (20 open squares, 18 closed squares)
Row 68: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 more open squares, make 10 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares)
Row 69: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until two squares before first closed square from previous row, make a closed square, make an open square, make another closed square, make 2 open squares, make 14 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 70: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 12 closed squares, make 2 closed squares, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 71: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 72: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 73: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 74: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 75: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 17 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (20 open squares, 18 closed squares).
Row 76: goin up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 5 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 10 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 77: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make 2 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 78: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 4 open squares, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 79: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 80: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 81: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 3 open squares, 5 closed squares. (30 open squares, 8 closed squares).
Row 82: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (28 open squares, 10 closed squares).
Row 83: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 more open squares, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 84: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 more open squares, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares, 3 closed squares).
Row 85-86: going down, then up, turn, CH4, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares).

Congratulations! You’ve finished your 2nd Pikachu, only 2 more to go! Take a rest, give your wrists a break and we’ll continue on to Part 3.

Click here for Part 3.

Click here for Part 4.

Patterns

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern Part 1/4

by strommercrafts / July 19, 2022

Hello everyone, I’m excited to show off my latest crochet pattern…a Crochet Pikachu Table Runner! I’ve been in love with using small crochet thread by Red Heart Super Saver recently (which is how I made this piece).

I’ve decided to make this crochet pikachu table runner a 4 part series, this first part will be fairly long, however that is to get you used to the filet crochet technique I’m using here. I will link the parts later in this post once they are complete.

Click here for Part 2.

Click here for Part 3.

Click here for Part 4.

The funny thing about this pattern is that I was actually trying to figure out how I could make a pikachu doily instead…but it turned out to be WAY too difficult for me to do. I just couldn’t get pikachu small enough to make out all the necessary details in the doily. However, the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern was born!

It will be helpful if you know how to filet crochet already, but if you don’t, no worries. I have the crochet math figured out for you, and after a few rows, you’ll get the hang of it!

If you’re a visual person, there’s a PDF download of the chart I used below. The white color = open squares and the black color = closed squares. Keep in mind that this chart reads differently than previous charts I’ve created. Instead of crocheting left to right and working up, you will need to crochet up and down and to the right if looking at the chart.

Why would I do it this way? It might seem a little confusing to read it like this (and you can always print the PDF out and turn it), but this helps prevent a lot of frogging if you mess up. It is super not fun to pull out a long row of crochet because you misplaced 1 closed block, but if it happens on the short side, it doesn’t hurt as bad (in my opinion anyways).

Stick around for the border too! I think the border completes this piece and gives it a vintage crochet vibe that I was shooting for. Borders just make crochet pieces look so much better, but they’re always optional.

Materials:

White Crochet Thread from Red Heart Super Saver Size 10, 1000 yards x 1
1.65 mm crochet hook – I actually bought this set because I could not for the life of me, find a single 1.65 mm crochet hook in store.
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Marker (optional, but helpful in the beginning. You can also use a paperclip or a scrap piece of yarn)

Size:

My table runner ended up being about 10.5 in x 58 in

Please note that your size may differ depending on your tension.

Time to Complete:

The Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern took me about 2 weeks of inconsistent crocheting to complete. Your time may vary.

Abbreviations:

Please note that these are in US terms not UK.

ST(s) – stitch(es)
SL ST – slip stitch
CH – chain
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
CH3 PICOT – chain 3 stitches, slip stitch in last stitch made

Important Notes:

The Math: 38 squares x2 = 76+4 chs. The +4 is for the turning ch plus a ch 1.
The filet crochet method used for this pattern includes the 3DC method. That means that a total of 3 DC makes an open or closed square.
The CH3’s at the beginning of the row counts as a DC.
At the end of the rows, I have included the words up and down. This is based on looking the PDF chart.
The border makes a beautiful finish, however the stitches on the long side before the corner, will not line up evenly like on the short side. This makes the border slightly off on those sides. I’ve made adjustments to the pattern to make it less noticeable, and when you’re finished it will be difficult to tell.

If you make this pattern and post to social media, please don’t forget to tag me on Instagram @strommercrafts! Please do not claim this pattern as your own.

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern

The Math: 38 squares x2 = 76+4 chs, dc in 6th ch from hook

CH 80

1st Pikachu

Row 1: DC in 6th ch from hook, CH1, skip a CH, DC in next CH, all the way to the end. (38 open squares) down. (Place your stitch marker, paperclip, or scrap piece of yarn on one side so you can determine which direction you were going when you need to stop).
Row 2: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, all the way to the end, place last DC in 3rd CH from last row’s CH4 (this is how you will end all rows throughout this pattern). (38 open squares) up
Row 3: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (you should have 3 open squares at this point). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 6 times), (now you should have 6 closed blocks). CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down
Row 4: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you get to the first closed block from previous row), DC in next 12 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) up
Row 5-6: Repeat Row 4 (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down, up
Row 7: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times, CH1, skip a DC, DC in next DC), (this will make an open square on top of a closed square from the previous row). (DC in next 10 STS, DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (this creates a closed square on top of an open square from previous row). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down
Row 8: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 12 STS. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) up
Row 9: Repeat Row 8 (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down
Row 10: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue this and stop 1 open square before the series of closed squares), DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC (you have a closed square on top of an open square from previous row), DC in next 10 STS, CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) up
Row 11: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you reach first closed square from previous row), DC in next 12 STS. (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times, you will have 3 closed blocks on top of 3 open squares from previous row). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) down
Row 12: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 18 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) up
Row 13: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 18 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next Dc x 3 times, you will have 3 closed squares on top of 3 open squares from previous row. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) down
Row 14: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 2 times, you will have 2 open squares on top of 2 closed squares from previous row). DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 6 times, 6 open squares on top of 6 closed squares from previous row). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (34 open squares, 4 closed squares) up
Row 15: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), (DC, skip a ST, DC in next ST, 1 open square on top of closed square from previous row), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, 1 open square on top of 1 open square from previous), DC in next 2 STS. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (34 open squares, 4 closed squares) down
Row 16: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square, DC in CH1 space, DC in next SC, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 3 times, 3 open squares on top of 3 closed squares), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row. (36 open squares, 2 closed squares) up. At this point you should have most of Pikachu’s tail completed.
Row 17: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (33 open squares, 5 closed blocks) down
Row 18: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 3 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times), DC in next 6 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row) (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) up
Row 19: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 16 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (27 open squares, 11 closed squares) down
Row 20: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (25 open squares, 13 closed squares) up
Row 21: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 26 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (23 open squares, 15 closed squares) down
Row 22: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 24 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (22 open squares, 16 closed squares) up
Row 23: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC, you will have made 4 open squares), DC in next 24 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (25 open squares, 13 closed squares). Down
Row 24: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC. until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 4 times), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) up
Row 25: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 4 times), DC in next 8 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 3 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) down
Row 26: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 12 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) up
Row 27: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 4 times), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 6 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (24 open squares, 14 closed squares). Down
Row 28: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 8 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 10 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (19 open squares, 19 closed squares). Up
Row 29: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH 1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 20 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (19 open squares, 19 closed squares). Down
Row 30: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 20 STS, (CH 1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH 1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (19 open squares, 19 closed squares) Up
Row 31: Turn, CH4, skip CH 1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (18 open squares, 20 closed squares) Down
Row 32: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (21 open squares, 17 closed squares) up
Row 33: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (22 open squares, 16 closed squares). Down
Row 34: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 26 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (24 open squares, 14 closed squares) Up
Row 35: start of Pikachu’s head Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) down
Row 36: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (28 open squares, 10 closed squares), Up
Row 37: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 14 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (27 open squares, 11 closed squares). Down
Row 38: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 6 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (25 open squares, 13 closed squares). Up
Row 39: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 3 times), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (28 open squares, 10 closed squares) down
Row 40: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 8 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times), DC in next 8 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (27 open squares, 11 closed squares) up
Row 41: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (30 open squares, 8 closed squares). Down
Row 42: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 4 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (35 closed squares, 3 open squares) Up
Row 43-44: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 3 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (38 closed squares).

You’ve now completed part 1/4 of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner.

I will be posting the next parts here as I finish them.

Click here for Part 2.

Click here for Part 3.

Click here for Part 4.

Thank you as always, if you see a mistake or have questions let me know in the comments below.

Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern – The Magic Mirror

by strommercrafts / July 12, 2022

Hello everyone, today I have a free crochet baby blanket pattern for you. This is the Magic Mirror blanket, made with self striping yarn from Lion Brand! The line is called Mandala in the Warlock color.

This is my first time using a self striping yarn (also known as a cake), and I’m pleasantly surprised with how the stripes lined up! I had to name this blanket something magical…the yarn is called Warlock of course! I think that the way the squares around the center are made reminded me of a colorful mirror.

It’s also really nice that you don’t have to cut your yarn and add new colors every couple of rows with self striping yarn.

I’m using one ball of Lion Brand’s Mandala in Warlock for this pattern. It’s a little bit smaller than a typical crochet baby blanket, but it’s great for using as a blanket for your baby in a car seat or stroller, or even for those little preemie babies (if the nurses will let you bring it in the NICU).

I’ve created this blanket from the center out. I prefer center out crochet when I’m not sure how big my blanket will be, this helps me keep a nice, even square shape no matter what round I need to stop. I’m using a magic circle (magic ring) to start, but you can easily ch 2 and crochet into the first ch instead.

I’m using a stitch called the Wattle Stitch. The stitch is simple once you get started, it is composed of a (sc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch, then skipping 2 sts or skipping to reach the next chain space.

Okay, let’s get started!

Size

25 in x 25 in, depending on your tension

Time to Complete

This crochet baby blanket took me about 2-3 days of inconsistent crocheting to complete.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

5mm crochet hook
1 ball of Lion Brand’s Mandala in Warlock (590 yards)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

Please note that these are in US terms, not UK.

Mc – magic circle
Ch(s) – chain(s)
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet

Helpful Tips:

The starting ch 1’s in each row do not count as a stitch.
We will be turning after finishing each row, this gives the wattle stitch a great looking texture.
How the corners are crocheted will alternate rounds. So round 2, 4, 6, 8 etc. will have the same type of corner and rounds 3, 5, 7, 9, etc. will have the same type or corner. I found that using wattle stitches to increase in the corners every round made it wave too much. I suspect it is from having too many stitches in the corners, so alternating made the blanket lay flat.

Magic Mirror Crochet Baby Blanket

Round 1: 12 sc in mc (alternatively you can ch 2 and sc in first ch), sl st to first sc

Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as st), *(sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in same st, skip 2 sts* repeat from *to* around, sl st to first sc. As a helpful reminder, the series of (sc, ch 1, dc) is the Wattle Stitch.

Round 3: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, *skip next st, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip next st, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip next 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* around until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip a st, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc.

Round 4: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, skip next 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 2 space, skip next 2 sts (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip next 2 sts* repeat from *to* around until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc.
Round 5: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip next st, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip next st, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip 2 sts x3 times], skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip a st, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc.
Round 6: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, skip 2 sts, *(sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 2 space, skip 2 sts, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip 2 sts x4 times]* repeat from *to* until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space, [skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space x2 times], sl st to first sc.

At this point, hopefully you have the hang of how we are increasing our square with the wattle stitch, I’m going to refine how I describe the following rounds.

Round 7: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, skip 2 sts until next ch 2 space], *(sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, [skip st(s) until next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space until next ch 2 space]* repeat from *to* around until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space until last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc
Round 8: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, wattle stitch, aka (sc, ch 1, dc) until the first ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space, wattle stitch around, make the (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) for your ch 2 corners, sl st to first sc.
Round 9: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, wattle stitch until the first ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 corner space, wattle stitch around, make the (sc, ch 2, dc) for your ch 2 corners, sl st to first sc
Round 10: repeat round 8
Round 11: repeat round 9

Continuing like this, make your wattle stitches in the ch 1 spaces, increase in the corners by alternating rounds between the (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) and the (sc, ch 2, dc). Sl st to the beginning of the round and turn.

After completing the last round, sl st to first st, cut yarn with scissors, pull through and weave in your end.

And there’s your Magic Mirror Crochet Baby Blanket! I hope you found this free crochet pattern useful. I really love the jewel tones in this blanket and the way the stripes lined up.

Did you make this pattern? Let me know on Instagram @strommercrafts!

This post was all about how to make the Magic Mirror Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern.

Crochet Witch Hat Pattern

by strommercrafts / July 6, 2022

Hello everyone, today I have a crochet witch hat pattern for you! A few years ago I had my oldest daughter dress as a cute little witch for Halloween, but the one essential piece I needed was a witch hat.

I thought, heck, I could make one of those, BUT I could not find a pattern for a toddler that I really liked. So I made my own instead!

This post is all about how to crochet a witch hat with step by step instructions and pictures.

Can you make this hat different sizes?

Yes! The witch hat pattern I have written below fits my 4 year old perfectly and my 2.5 year old (a little big). If you’re needing a smaller or bigger size, you can stop early or add more rows. The formula for making the cone shape is increasing, doing a row of single crochets, doing another row of increases, then another row of single crochets and so on until you reach the desired size.

If you alter the size, keep in mind that you’ll have to adjust the crochet band and possibly the bow. You may need to decrease or add the amount of brim too.

I suggest using a measuring tape to obtain accurate head measurements and then crocheting until you meet those measurements. Here is a head measurement guide that has average head circumferences by age if you need help.

What is the best yarn to use for this pattern?

I use acrylic yarn from Red Heart Super Saver. Acrylic yarn is perfect for keeping the witch hat and brim stiff. I think that if you use a softer yarn, your hat would most likely slouch and be floppier.

Do I have to crochet the band and bow?

Nope! Honestly, it would be easier to buy a ribbon and tie a pretty bow around the hat. If you’re like me, I didn’t have any ribbon, nor did I feel like buying any…so I used orange yarn from my stash instead.

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

5 mm crochet hook
Black Yarn by Red Heart Super Saver (1 skein)
Pumpkin Yarn by Red Heart Super Saver (1 skein)
Stitch marker
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

Please note that these are in US terms, not UK.

Mc – magic circle/ring (see this post if you need help putting this on your hook)
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch(s) – chain(s)
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet

Helpful Tips:

The number in parenthesis at the end of the rows indicates the number of stitches you should have.
The hat is made in a continuous row, meaning that we will not be slip stitching and chaining to get to the next row height. This is where you will need a stitch marker to help you determine the beginning and end of your rounds. You can use a scrap piece of yarn or a paperclip if you don’t have stitch markers on hand.
The first round of the brim is made by crocheting in the front loops. If you look at the top your stitches, you’ll notice it looks like a little V, insert your hook into the part of the V that is closest to you. That is the front loop.
Sew the bow directly onto the band (not into the hat), this helps prevent a bunch of uncomfortable yarn pushing against your head.

Crochet Witch Hat Pattern

Row 1: make a mc, ch 1 (does not count as st), 5 hdc in mc (5 sts)
Row 2: 1 hdc in each st around (5 sts)
Row 3: 2 hdc in each st around (10 sts)
Row 4: 1 hdc in each st around (10 sts)
Row 5: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st (15 sts)
Row 6: 1 hdc in each st around (15 sts)
Row 7: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
Row 8: 1 hdc in each around (20 sts)
Row 9: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts (25 sts)
Row 10: 1 hdc in each st around (25 sts)
Row 11: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts (30 sts)
Row 12: 1 hdc in each st around (30 sts)
Row 13: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts (35 sts)
Row 14: 1 hdc in each st around (35 sts)
Row 15: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts (40 sts)
Row 16: 1 hdc in each st around (40 sts)
Row 17: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts (45 sts)
Row 18: 1 hdc in each st around (45 sts)
Row 19: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts (50 sts)
Row 20: 1 hdc in each st around (50 sts)
Row 21: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 9 sts (55 sts)
Row 22: 1 hdc in each st around (55 sts)
Row 23: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 10 sts (60 sts)
Row 24: 1 hdc in each st around (60 sts)
Row 25: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 11 sts (65 sts)
Row 26: 1 hdc in each st around (65 sts)
Row 27: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 12 sts (70 sts)
Row 28: 1 hdc in each st around (70 sts)
Row 29: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 13 sts (75 sts)
Row 30: 1 hdc in each st around (75 sts)
Row 31: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 14 sts (80 sts)
Row 32: 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (80 sts)

If you need to make your size larger, continue in this fashion until you reach your desired size For smaller sizes, stop at whatever row you feel is appropriate.

Crochet Witch Hat Brim

Row 33: ch 1, (in front loop) 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (90 sts)
Row 34: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (100 sts)
Row 35: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (110 sts)
Row 36: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (120 sts)
Row 37: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (130 sts)
Row 38: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (140 sts)
Row 39: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (150 sts)

Keep increasing in this fashion if you need a longer brim or stop earlier for a shorter brim.

Cut yarn with scissors. Weave in end with tapestry needle.

Orange Bow (optional)

We will be making the bow in three different parts and sewing them together later.

You don’t have to make the bow or the band, but I think they give the witch hat a nice finishing touch, especially if you’re making this for a little girl.

Center Part:

This is easily adjustable by reducing or increasing the amount of starting chains.

Row 1: ch 31, without twisting, sl st to first st to create a loop (30 sts)
Row 2-7: turn, ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to first st (30 sts)

Leave a long tail, cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Take the tail and wrap it around the middle of the bow. Weave in the end back into the middle part to secure it.

Bow “Tails”:

This is adjustable by chaining less or more, and then placing increases in the beginning and end stitches of each row.

Row 1: ch 12, sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch across (11 sts)
Row 2: turn, ch 1 (does not count as a st this row and following rows), 2 sc in first st, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in last st (13 sts)
Row 3: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in last st (15 sts)
Row 4: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in last st (17 sts)
Row 5: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in last st (19 sts)
Row 6: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 17 sts, 2 sc in last st (21 sts)

Leave a long tail, cut yarn with scissors and pull through.

Weave in the tail back through the last row’s stitches until the 10th stitch. Wrap your tail around the middle of the “tails.” Hold the tails open firmly with one hand so the side that we weaved the tail in doesn’t curl on you.

Weave in the end back into the middle part to secure it.

Bow Middle Section:

This part is made to hide the yarn that we wrapped around the center and tails.

Adjust length by chaining more chains in the beginning.

Row 1: ch 14, turn, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (13 sts)

Leave a long tail, cut yarn with scissors and pull through.

Bow Assembly:

Sew together all three parts by placing the middle section over the center and tail pieces. Make sure the tail piece is sew with the shorter side on top.

This part can be a little difficult as you are trying to keep all the pieces together, but don’t sweat it! I ended up having to overlap the middle section to get the tightness I wanted.

Orange Band around Witch Hat:

Adjust size by decreasing or increasing the amount of rows. You want to make sure the band will fit around the hat nicely without it being too short or too long.

Row 1: ch 5, insert hook into second ch from hook, sc in each st across (4 sts)
Row 2: turn, ch 1, (does not count as a stitch), sc in each st across (4 sts)
Row 3-84: Repeat row 2

My band length is approximately 23.5 inches.

Fold the band together without twisting. Insert hook into both sts and sl st across to sew together.

Bow and Band Assembly

After you’ve sewed the bow pieces together, sew the bow directly onto where you joined the band together.

Now place the band with the bow onto the hat. Cut a very long piece of orange yarn, attach to the back side of the band and sew the band across the hat. Try to sew in the same row of stitches on the hat to give the band a nice, even look.

Sew yarn securely. Cut any excess yarn off with scissors.

Your crochet witch hat is complete! I hope you found this pattern helpful, if you have any questions feel free to leave a comment below. Thank you and have a Happy Halloween!

Did you make this pattern? Tag me on instagram @strommercrafts.

Related Posts:

Abbreviations Used:

Materials Needed:

Special Instructions:

Crochet Bear Hat Pattern

Newborn-3 Months

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Newborn-3 Months):

3-6 Months

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (3-6 Months)

6-12 Months

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (6-12 Months)

Toddler (1-3 Years)

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Toddler 1-3 Years)

Child (3-10 Years)

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Child 3-10 Years)

Teen/Adult

Crochet Bear Ears x 2 (Teen/Adult)

Crochet Bear Hat Assembly

Other Posts You May Like:

In this post, you will learn how to crochet a chunky hat in multiple sizes!

Related Posts:

Materials:

Abbreviations:

Special Instructions:

Crochet Chunky Hat Pattern

Newborn-3 Months

3-6 Months

6-12 Months

Toddler 1-3 Years

Child 3-10 Years

Teen/Small Adult

Adult Medium

Adult Large

Pom Poms

Newborn-12 Months Pom Pom Size

Toddler (1-3 Years) Pom Pom Size

Child (3-10 Years) Pom Pom Size

Teen-Large Adult Pom Pom Size

Other Posts You May Like:

Related Posts:

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Helpful Tips:

Crochet Chevron Baby Blanket Pattern:

Hello everyone, today I have a crochet shell baby blanket pattern for you.

Related Posts:

Size:

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Crochet Shell Baby Blanket

Materials:

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Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern Part 4/4

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Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 3/4:

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Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 2/4

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Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern

1st Pikachu

You’ve now completed part 1/4 of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner.

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