How to Crochet With Parkinson’s Disease

Crocheting can be a fun and fulfilling hobby, but for those facing the challenges of Parkinson’s disease, it may require a few adjustments. In this post, we’ll explore nine valuable tips on how to crochet with Parkinson’s disease in order to make it more enjoyable and easier to navigate.

As a nurse who loves to crochet, I have seen patients suffering in varying degrees from the disease. And while I may not have the disease myself, I understand the frustrations that may arise when struggling to use fine motor skills.

This post is not meant to replace any sort of treatment regimen you may be following and please always consult your doctor for questions or concerns. 

What is Parkinson’s Disease?

Parkinson’s disease is a neurodegenerative disorder that primarily affects movement control (obviously not great for those who love to crochet!). When certain nerve cells in the brain that are responsible for producing dopamine get damaged or die off, symptoms of Parkinson’s disease can develop. Dopamine is important for coordinating smooth and controlled muscle movements.

Tremors (shaking), stiffness, slowness of movement, and difficulty with balance and coordination are a few symptoms of Parkinson’s disease. Over time these symptoms may progress and impact a variety of activities of daily life for the individual. 

Currently there is no cure for Parkinson’s disease, but various treatments including medications and therapies can help with symptoms and improve quality of life for those living with the condition.

Why is Parkinson’s Disease a Challenge for those Who Love to Crochet?

There are several reasons why Parkinson’s disease can pose a challenge to those who enjoy crocheting:

  • Fine Motor Skills Impairment: Parkinson’s disease can affect fine motor skills, which makes it difficult for performing detailed hand movements and holding yarn. 
  • Tremors: Tremors are a common symptom and can cause involuntary shaking of the hands, which makes it hard to maintain tension and control while crocheting.
  • Stiffness and Rigidity: Parkinson’s disease may lead to stiffness and rigid muscles, which makes fluid movements in the wrist difficult to do.
  • Fatigue: Those with the disease may find that they fatigue more easily. Crocheting for extended periods may exacerbate this fatigue, requiring frequent breaks.
  • Reduced Grip Strength: Holding crochet hooks and the yarn requires a little bit of grip strength, Parkinson’s can reduce this strength, making it hard to hold onto crochet hooks and yarn appropriately.
  • Cognitive Challenges: Some people may experience cognitive decline with Parkinson’s disease, which affects their ability to follow complex crochet patterns or they may experience difficulty in remembering steps in the patterns.

Despite these challenges, many people with Parkinson’s disease can experience a sense of accomplishment and enjoyment in continuing to crochet. Let’s explore a few ways that those with the disease can make crocheting easier to do and more enjoyable.

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Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

1. Use weighted crochet hooks

Weighted crochet hooks will help with grip strength, as holding light objects (like silverware for example), can be difficult. Ergonomic crochet hooks might be helpful, but may not give the longest or the best support. Try using a weighted crochet hook like this one for crocheting with Parkinson’s disease.

2. Crochet with bulky yarn 

Using thicker or bulkier yarn can help relieve the burden of using fine movements required to hold on and move the strands around. You can also try to double stranding smaller yarn sizes if a bulky yarn size isn’t available.

3. Try a ring hook

Try using a ring hook for crocheting with Parkinson’s disease. A ring hook can help reduce the amount of grip strength that is needed to hold the yarn and keep a consistent tension. However, depending on the severity of the disease, an individual may need assistance placing the yarn through the hook in the beginning.

4. Use a support pillow

If a person wit h Parkinson’s disease finds themselves struggling with holding the yarn and the crochet project at the same time, they may benefit from using a support pillow under the arms. The extra support will help with tremors and holding the fabric. As silly as it sounds, using a breastfeeding pillow may be helpful, as these pillows are made with the idea to support the arms, or try using a pillow or two under both arms.

5. Continue taking medication as prescribed

Many people with Parkinson’s disease find relief in some of their symptoms with medication. Taking your medication as prescribed by your medical doctor can help reduce tremors and other symptoms that make it difficult to crochet.

6. Eat well and exercise

A well balanced and nutritious diet, as well as regular exercise play a crucial role in managing Parkinson’s disease. Try eating a variety of fruits and vegetables, lean protein, healthy fats, and calcium rich foods. Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water, and cut out processed foods. Exercise can help improve mobility, coordination, and reduce rigidity.

7. Take breaks

Pacing yourself and taking breaks helps avoid fatigue. Try performing stretching exercises during breaks to help alleviate any stiffness.

You can try wrist flexion and extension stretches, rotating your forearms back and forth (think like giving someone a thumbs up and a thumbs down), or spreading the fingers apart with a resistance band.

8. Know your limits 

Depending on the progression of the disease, you may be able to crochet larger or more complex projects.

However, if you find yourself getting frustrated, it’s ok to crochet small, simple projects. Try picking out crochet patterns that use one type of stitch.

Small, simple crochet patterns include: 

  • Coasters
  • Washcloths
  • Bracelets
  • Scrunchies
  • Headbands
  • Face Scrubbers

9. Be patient with yourself and stay positive

Be patient with yourself and try to keep a positive mindset. It’s easy to despair and focus on the negative aspects of the disease. Celebrate your progress and the little wins in life.

Also try to do 3 things that make you happy every day. Staying happy can help you maintain a positive outlook. This can include activities like:

  • Socializing and engaging with others
  • Going outside and walking in the sunshine
  • Listening to your favorite music or podcast
  • Enjoy a favorite snack or beverage
  • Reading a book or watching your favorite TV show

I hope you enjoyed these tips on how to crochet with Parkinson’s disease. From using weighted crochet hooks to knowing your limits, these are all ways that can make crocheting much more enjoyable.

Remember that even though these tips may help you to crochet, it’s important to consult your doctor or healthcare team if you have any questions or concerns about your condition.

And if you find yourself still struggling and frustrated crocheting with Parkinson’s disease, it’s ok to put the hook and yarn away for a while.

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15 Crochet Spring Doily Patterns

Hello everyone! Today, I’m excited to share with you a carefully curated collection of 15 Crochet Spring Doilies!

As we say goodbye to the chilly winter months and welcome the warmth of spring, I’ve been thinking of ways to add a little spring decor into my home.

In my search for the perfect spring-inspired crochet pattern, I stumbled upon a variety of doilies that remind me a lot of spring. These doilies are made to help accent vases of blooming flowers, plates, saucers, or even grace your walls as crochet doily art!

Each doily in this collection has, what I believe, is a floral or feminine theme. Some feature an adorable shelled edge that adds a perfect touch of cuteness, which I think is ideal for the springtime aesthetic.

For these crochet spring doilies, I’ve chosen a variety of colors from Hobby Lobby’s Artiste Crochet Thread line. While I’m not affiliated with Hobby Lobby, I really like this particular thread line for its affordability per yard and the wide selection of beautiful colors it offers.

Anyways, if you’re on the lookout for a crochet doily pattern to welcome the spring season, you’re in the right place! This list is tailor-made for those seeking inspiration for their next crochet spring project. I hope it inspires you to make your own beautiful doily!

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The Flower Wheel Doily is a short and sweet doily pattern that is embedded with three petaled flowers. It’s a cute little doily that would be perfect to place underneath plates or saucers during afternoon tea time!

2. Simple Doily

Learn how to crochet the Simple Doily here.

The Simple Doily by Nancy Hearne is a small, elegant doily, perfect to place under your favorite flower vase. It’s a short 15 round doily that utilizes a combination of double crochet clusters, popcorn stitches, and chains. 

3. Spring Leaf Doily

Learn how to crochet the Spring Leaf Doily here.

The Spring Leaf Doily is a beautiful 24 round crochet doily that displays cute, 3 pronged leaves in a circular fashion. The way that you create a mesh around the center and then fill in with the leaf motif, gives it an elegant look. This doily is quite large when finished, and would be perfect underneath a flower vase or under a large serving plate. 

4. Tulip Mandala

Learn how to crochet the Tulip Mandala here.

The Tulip Mandala is a fun, spring time doily pattern embedded with tulip motifs. This pattern is created for free by Ella Laitila. She uses a larger yarn and hook size, but I think it looks so beautiful in crochet thread, which I have used in the picture above. I think this floral doily is great to use as a decoration during the spring months!

5. Tea Rose Doily

Learn how to crochet the Tea Rose Doily here.

The Tea Rose Doily is a simple floral doily by KristinesCrochets. This doily starts out by making a cute flower in the middle, surrounded by a thick line of double crochets, then a middle of mesh squares, and finally a pretty scalloped border. She is using a larger sized yarn and hook in her pattern than crochet thread, but I think it looks really pretty with the smaller thread! 

6. Easy Round Doily Pattern

Learn how to crochet the Easy Round Doily Pattern here.

The Easy Round Doily Pattern is a beautiful crochet doily. I honestly wish it had a prettier name, but unfortunately I cannot find who made this pattern. This is a chart only pattern, meaning there are no written instructions, but the chart is well done and easy to follow. This would be a perfect doily to use as a centerpiece for your table during the springtime! 

7. Springs Arrival Crochet Doily

Learn how to crochet the Springs Arrival Crochet Doily here.

The Springs Arrival crochet doily is created by Gemma Owen and has a wonderful floral and leaf theme to the pattern. I love her use of color throughout her doily pattern, however I decided to use a monocolor. If you want to use one color throughout, you’ll have to slip stitch around to different spots in the next round, as the pattern requires you to cut your yarn and attach a new color in a place other than the joining stitch.

8. Nosegay Doily

Learn how to crochet the Nosegay Doily here.

The Nosegay Doily is a vintage crochet doily that was published in Women’s Day magazine in 1951. This is a perfect springtime crochet doily, as the whole thing looks just like a spring flower. I will warn you however, as pretty as this crochet doily is, it’s a very large and long pattern. It has a total of 26 rounds, with most of it being a combination of double crochets or chains. As a matter of fact, don’t be like me and try to get away with using one 350 yard roll of crochet thread! I wasn’t able to totally finish the doily, and I didn’t like the look of using a different color to finish it, so here is how far I could make it!

9. Blue Rose Doily 

Learn how to crochet the Blue Rose Doily here.

The Blue Rose Doily is a gorgeous, delicate crochet doily designed by Rosanne Kropp and published in Crochet! magazine in March 2003. This was a really interesting doily to make, as you’ll have to crochet individual roses separately, attach them to the previous round, and then crochet around. Her pattern uses one color, but I love using a green and blue colored thread to make the leaves and roses pop. 

10. Model 14 Doily

Learn how to crochet the Model 14 Doily here.

Spring Crochet Doilies

The Model 14 Doily is a pretty, 22 round crochet doily. I love how simple, yet elegant this crochet doily is. I am unable to find written instructions for this pattern, but the link to this pattern takes you to the chart for this doily. The chart has information in French, but it’s not needed if you know how to read crochet charts. Otherwise, you can use Google lens to translate the photo for you.

11. Mine Rosinha Towel Doily

Learn how to crochet the Mine Rosinha Towel Doily here.

The Mine Rosinha Towel Doily is a short, 9 round doily that is perfect for placing under an afternoon cup of tea. It’s a cute little doily that is surrounded by a shell of picots. This is another chart-only pattern, but it is easy to read. 

12. Crochet Pear Blossoms Doily

Learn how to crochet the Crochet Pear Blossoms Doily here.

The Crochet Pear Blossoms Doily, from the Crochet For You Blog, is a cute, feminine crochet doily with only 15 rounds. I love how the little clusters look like blossoms and the last row adds a nice, elegant touch to the doily.  

13. Heavenly Flower Doily

Learn how to crochet the Heavenly Flower Doily here.

The Heavenly Flower Doily by Ramalakshmi Pasumarthy, is a crochet doily that will remind you of exactly that, a heavenly flower! This free doily pattern is a great accent in the home to use during those spring months. 

14. Tulip Doily

Learn how to crochet the Tulip Doily here.

The Tulip Doily is a wonderful spring doily pattern, and would be perfect for putting underneath your own vase of tulips! This doily starts with a large, 8 petaled flower in the middle and then splits off into little tulip flowers at the edges.

15. Doily No. 1

Learn how to crochet the Doily No. 1 here.

This is another sweet and simple doily with a Japanese designer. This is a chart only pattern, but again, is easy to follow along. I love how this doily has big shells around the edges, especially since it gives it the appearance of being a flower.

I hope you enjoyed this list of 15 Crochet Spring Doilies and that they bring a refreshing breath of springtime goodness into your home! 

Are you envisioning it under a vase of freshly picked flowers or gracing your table during a delightful afternoon tea? However you make your doilies, I’m sure they will be lovely!

Thank you for reading, until next time!

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21 Stunning Crochet Lace Stitches

Hello everyone, today I have 21 Stunning Crochet Lace Stitches that you have to try if you love crocheting lace!

Are you looking for lacy, openwork, or airy crochet stitches? Need a little inspiration for your next crochet lace project? This list is perfect for you!  

What sort of projects can you crochet with lace? You can use these stitches for things like bags, table cloths, curtains, lacy scarves, shawls, garments, or even veils! Making lace is a lot of fun and I’ve personally made crochet lace patterns like a Gothic Table Runner and an Infinity Veil.

I have crocheted all 21 of these crochet lace stitches myself, however, some of them don’t have a written pattern, and are charts/diagrams only. A few of these stitch patterns I could not find the original creator or the website, but the charts are available as pins on Pinterest. If you know any of these stitch patterns or the creator, please let me know in the comments below so I can properly credit them.

Today I am using a variety of crochet thread from Hobby Lobby’s Artiste line. However, you can use any sort of yarn you like, just make sure to use an appropriate sized hook for your yarn size.

Without further ado, here’s a list of 21 Stunning Crochet Lace Stitches that you should try today!

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21 Stunning Crochet Lace Stitches:

1. Solomons Knot 

Click here to learn the Solomon’s Knot Stitch

The Solomon’s Knot stitch (also known as the Lover’s Knot stitch) is a lacy stitch that is so cool to do! I’ve actually crocheted a very pretty Solomon’s Knot veil using this type of stitch. 

When crocheted, this stitch looks like little X’s or diamonds. This stitch is achieved by making really tall single crochets and then single crocheting again into the back loop (3rd loop) of the tall single crochet stitch. You can change the way the stitch pattern looks depending on how high you make your single crochets.

2. Lace Star Flower Stitch

Click here to learn the Lace Star Flower Stitch

The Lace Star Flower stitch is an airy, openwork crochet stitch that looks like a pointed flower or a star. This stitch is one of those stitches that looks harder to do than it actually is. It’s a two row repeat and is achieved by making V stitches, chains, and single crochets.

3. Flower Garden Stitch

Click here to learn the Flower Garden Stitch

The Flower Garden stitch is a flowery, lacy crochet stitch. Use it to feminize crochet projects like market bags or scarves or shawls or make a veil like this one. This stitch is a little more complex with a 4 row repeat and is achieved by making a series of treble clusters, V stitches, and chains. 

4. Fancy Lace Stitch

Click here to learn the Fancy Lace Stitch

The Fancy Lace stitch is a wonderfully simple lace stitch that consists of little mini shells. To crochet the stitch, you will make 2 double crochets, chain 2, and then 2 more double crochets into the same stitch, then repeat. It’s so easy…and fancy!

5. Picot Trellis Stitch

Click here to learn the Picot Trellis Stitch

The Picot Trellis stitch is an interesting, open crochet stitch that uses picots and chains to create a mesh like fabric. A picot is made by single crochet into a stitch, chaining a number of chains (in this pattern it’s a chain 3), and then single crocheting into the same stitch. This is another easy, two round repeat stitch pattern.

6. Y Stitch

Click here to learn the Y Stitch

The Y stitch is a fun combination stitch that looks just like the letter Y! This stitch is made by treble crocheting, chaining 1, and then double crocheting into the post of the same treble crochet just made. 

7. Treble Cross Stitch

Click here to learn the Treble Cross Stitch

The Treble Cross stitch is an X shaped stitch that is tall and lacy. This stitch is achieved by crocheting two stitches together and then doing a similar technique seen with the Y stitch back into the middle of what is the X. It’s pretty neat!

8. Eyelet Mesh Stitch

Click here to learn the Eyelet Mesh Stitch

The Eyelet Mesh stitch is a light, open crochet stitch that creates little eyelets as you work. An eyelet is defined as a small hole, edged with embroidered stitches as part of a design. In this case the eyelet is created by make a wide V stitch and then single crocheting into the top of the V stitch chain space to make those “embroidered” stitches. It’s a simple 2 row repeat with double crochets, single crochets, and chains being the only types of stitches used.

9. Crochet Leaf Stitch

Click here to learn the Crochet Leaf Stitch

The Crochet Leaf stitch is a more complex crochet lace stitch that looks like two little leaves coming off a stem. This stitch does not have a written pattern, but a chart is provided with the repeat formula outlined to make the pattern as long or short as you’d like.  

10. Crochet Open Boho Lace Stitch

Click here to learn the Open Boho Lace Stitch

This is another lacy stitch that is a chart only pattern. I honestly don’t know if this particular stitch has an official name, but I did find a crochet boho sweater pattern that used this same stitch, so I’ll just call it the Boho Lace stitch for this article. It’s a really easy repeat and works up so nicely. This pattern consists of V stitches, chains, and single crochets.

11. Shells and Chains Stitch

Click here to learn the Shells and Chains Stitch

The Shells and Chains Stitch is a beautiful pattern that consists of an arrangement of shells and lacy chains. This pattern is a chart only, but once a few rows are worked, you’ll whip this up in no time.

12. Diamond Mesh Stitch

Click here to learn the Diamond Mesh Stitch

The Diamond Mesh stitch is a classic crochet lace stitch. You’ll see this type of stitch in many crochet doily and shawl patterns and is easily customizable by increasing or decreasing the amount of chains between single crochets. This pattern is in UK terms, not US, so keep that in mind (when the pattern says double crochet, that actually means single crochet in US terms).

13. Spider Lace Stitch

Click here to learn the Spider Lace Stitch

The Spider Lace stitch looks exactly like a spider in a window (I guess technically it has 6 legs, not 8, but we’re rolling with it). This stitch uses a combination of mesh stitches, chains, and a double crochet cluster. 

14. Lace Flower Stitch

Click here to learn the Lace Flower Stitch

The Lace Flower stitch is created by crocheting, cute little puff stitches that make up three flower petals, surrounded by chains. 

15. Zigzag Lace Stitch 

Click here to learn the Zigzag Lace Stitch

The Zigzag Lace stitch is a fun crochet stitch pattern. You either chain 2 or chain 6 and place double crochets in such a way that it creates a zig zag effect.

16. Lacy Clubs Stitch

Click here to learn the Lacy Clubs Stitch

I’m actually not sure what this stitch is officially called, but as I was crocheting this swatch, it reminded me of the suit of clubs in traditional card games. This is a chart only pattern, but I found that crocheting into the chains themselves (not the spaces) really helped keep the club together. 

17. Geometric Circles Stitch

Click here to learn the Geometric Circles Stitch

Another mystery stitch, in which I am unsure of the name, so I’m calling it the Geometric Circle stitch. This is a simple crochet pattern in which you will create little “spoked” circles that make an overlapping illusion, so it’s kind of fun to look at if I’m going to be honest. This stitch pattern is made by chains and double crochets and is pretty easy to remember after crocheting a few rows.

18. Open and Closed Squares Stitch

Click here to learn the Open and Closed Squares Stitch

This openwork crochet stitch consists of tiny, open squares, and larger, open squares. It almost reminds me of a retro tile pattern. In this stitch pattern, I suggest again, crocheting into the chains, not into the chain spaces.

19. Retro Lace Stitch

Click here to learn the Retro Lace Stitch

The Retro Lace stitch pattern is another geometric lace stitch that consists of chains, single crochets and treble crochets. It’s another stitch pattern that is easy to do once you get into a rhythm. 

20. Little Lace Flowers Stitch

Click here to learn the Little Lace Flowers Stitch

This is a cute, lacy crochet stitch that creates little, 3 petaled flower motifs. You’ll chain between the flower motifs to give this stitch pattern a lacy look. This is a pattern where I would recommend to single crochet the flower petals into the chains themselves and not the chain spaces, so that the finished fabric looks more polished.

21. Shell Lattice Stitch

Click here to learn the Shell Lattice Stitch

I hope you enjoyed this list of 21 Stunning Crochet Lace Stitches and that they inspire you to create something great! 

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17 Thick Crochet Stitches to Try for Your Next Project

Hello everyone! Today, I’ve compiled a list of 17 Thick Crochet Stitches that will add warmth and coziness to your next project! 

As November brings colder weather, I’ve been thinking of ways to create denser, chunkier fabrics in my crochet work. While using thicker yarn is an obvious choice, sometimes we want to use what we already have on hand or avoid buying new yarn.

So, I’ve put together a collection of thick crochet stitches that can help you achieve a warmer hat, blanket, scarf, or whatever your heart desires! 

Many of these stitches use layering effects, multiple yarn overs in the same stitch, or crocheting around stitches a row or two below.  

Enjoy the warmth and texture these stitches can bring to your crochet creations!

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Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

#1 Puff Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Puff Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Mainstays 100% Cotton Yarn in Daylily Pink

The puff stitch is one way to help thicken up your crochet project. The puff stitch creates a raised, textured, “puff,” and is often added for extra interest or dimension. The technique involves yarning over and inserting the hook into the next stitch (usually 3, 4 or more times), and pulling through all the loops at once.

#2 Popcorn Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Popcorn Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Red Heart Super Saver 4 Medium Acrylic in Dusty Gray

The popcorn stitch is a fun way to add density by creating little round balls that look sort of like popcorn kernels. These little “popcorns” are great for making the cutest blankets and baby items. To crochet a popcorn stitch, begin by executing a set number of double crochets, usually five or more. After the final double crochet, remove your hook from the loop, insert it into the first double crochet, retrieve the loop from the last double crochet, and pull it through.

#3 Bullion Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Bullion Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Navy

The bullion stitch, also known as the roll stitch, creates cute, little ‘coils’ into your crochet projects. I’ve personally crocheted a few bookmarks using this stitch, and its unique texture adds an elegant touch to the work.

To do the bullion stitch, wrap the yarn around your hook (typically at least 5 times, although some patterns may vary), insert it into the next stitch, yarn over, and then pull through all the loops.

While the first two loops are usually straightforward, the following ones can be a bit challenging. To ease the process, pulling the loops away from the hook as you draw through can be quite helpful.

#4 Bobble Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Bobble Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Peaches and Creme Solid 4 Medium Cotton Yarn in White

The bobble stitch is a cluster of stitches (usually double crochets) that makes a ball texture similar to the popcorn stitch. However, the technique for creating the bobble stitch differs. Typically these stitches are created by double crocheting 4-5 times in the same stitch, but you hold back the last pull through for each double crochet. After the last double crochet is made, you pull through all of the double crochets to create the bobble.

#5 Jasmine Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Jasmine Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Lion Brand Feels Like Butta Yarn in Pale Grey

The jasmine stitch is a super thick, super dense crochet stitch. It’s also one of (in my opinion) the hardest crochet stitches to make. The technique results in beautiful flower shapes and each petal is created by an alternative puff stitch technique. If you’re looking to add warmth to your project or maybe just use up a bunch of yarn fast, the jasmine stitch is the perfect choice.

#6 Crocodile Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Crocodile Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Tobacco

The crocodile stitch stands out as a distinctive crochet technique, creating layers of fabric that resemble reptile or fish scales (or feathers in some patterns), providing an interesting 3D effect to your projects.

While it’s an enjoyable stitch to create, it can pose a bit of a challenge initially. The process involves crocheting a row of ‘ladders’ and then double crocheting around the rungs of the ladder row in a circular fashion.

#7 Thermal Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Thermal Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Peaches and Creme Ombre 4 Medium Cotton Yarn in Oasis

The thermal stitch earns its name from how warm it will keep you during those cold months! It’s a crochet stitch that is double layered, making it dense and sturdy. It’s the perfect stitch for crochet projects that are going to be subject to any sort of wear and tear (potholders, dishcloths, bags, rugs, etc.). This stitch requires you to crochet in the back loops of the current row and then into the loop of the row directly below.

#8 Waffle Stitch 

Learn how to crochet the Waffle Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Cocoa

The waffle stitch is so enticing; you might find yourself tempted to take a bite out of your work (just kidding!). But in all seriousness, the waffle stitch not only resembles a delicious waffle but also promises to keep you warm throughout the winter.

Created by a combination of front post double crochets and regular double crochets, this cozy crochet stitch adds both texture and visual appeal to your projects.


#9 Basket Weave Stitch 

Learn how to crochet the Basket Weave Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Yarn Bee Soft Secret in White

The basket weave stitch is a layered technique that showcases a woven texture similar to a handmade basket. To achieve this stitch, you repeat a sequence of front post and back post double crochets for a few rows, and then switch the two stitches. The result is a visually appealing pattern that adds depth and interest to your crochet projects.

#10 Alpine Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Alpine the Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Hobbi Yarn Rainbow Cotton 8/4 in Natural White

The alpine stitch is a distinctive technique that makes a solid, warm fabric, reminding me of the imagery of trees seen from an aerial view on a mountainside. To make this stitch, you alternate between rows of single crochets and rows of front post double crochets worked into stitches two rows below. The result is a textured pattern that looks like a mountainous landscape, providing both visual interest and coziness to your crochet projects.


#11 Bean Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Bean Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Peaches and Creme Stripey 4 Medium Cotton Yarn in Linen

The bean stitch is a wonderfully cozy stitch. It’s a simple pattern that creates a fabric that looks like little beans in a zig-zag fashion. This is made by making puff stitches and single crochets, it’s that easy! Plus, who doesn’t love beans!? 


#12 Rice Stitch 

Learn how to crochet the Rice Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Hobbi Yarn Rainbow Cotton 8/4 in Beige

The rice stitch is a dense crochet pattern, similar to the basket weave stitch, but with a twist. In this stitch, the alternation between front post double crochets and back post double crochets occurs more rapidly, resulting in a fabric that resembles small grains of rice. 


#13 Bead Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Bead Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Red Heart Super Saver 4 Medium Acrylic in Real Teal

The bead stitch is a gorgeous and thick stitch that literally looks like beads. This yarn-eating stitch is simply made by making a double crochet and then basically puff stitching around that same double crochet. 


#14 Waistcoat Stitch 

Learn how to crochet the Waistcoat Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Hobbi Yarn Rainbow Cotton 8/4 in Brown

The waistcoat stitch is a dense crochet stitch that consists solely of single crochets, a surprising choice for creating thickness. The technique behind this stitch involves, instead of entering the top of the next stitch in the traditional manner, inserting the hook directly into the ‘legs’ of the next stitch. 

While mastering this stitch can be somewhat challenging, especially without adjusting the hook size or maintaining a loose tension, the result is a fabric that not only appears thick but also looks like knitting. When worked in the round, the little knitted V’s align more evenly, adding a neat finish to the project.


#15 Thick Marguerite Stitch 

Learn the Thick Marguerite Stitch here

Yarn Pictured: Hobbi Yarn Rainbow Cotton 8/4 in Petunia Pink

The thick marguerite stitch is such a cute stitch that resembles little stars (and it’s a variation of the star stitch). It creates a thicker fabric than the normal version by yarning over an extra time and helping to bulk up the stitch. It reminds me of the jasmine stitch, only much easier.


#16 Feather Stitch

Learn how to crochet the Feather Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Hobbi Yarn Rainbow Cotton 8/4 in Green

The feather stitch is a fun and layered crochet technique that, after a couple of rows, mimics the appearance of feathers on a folded bird wing. The method of creating the feather stitch is similar to the puff stitch, but with a twist—your hook is inserted into different positions in both the current row and the row below. This approach results in a textured pattern that resembles the beauty of feathers.

 

#17 Celtic Weave Stitch 

Learn how to crochet the Celtic Weave Stitch here.

Yarn Pictured: Hobbi Yarn Rainbow Cotton 8/4 in Yellow

The celtic weave stitch is a thick crochet stitch that looks like a diagonal woven basket. Achieved by crisscrossing front post treble crochets in one row and then executing back post treble crochets in the next, this stitch creates a textured fabric similar to traditional Celtic patterns.

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I hope that you enjoyed this list of 17 Thick Crochet Stitches! Whether you’re working on a cozy blanket, a stylish scarf, or a snug hat, these stitches are sure to bring warmth to you and your loved ones during the colder months!

Until next time!

Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

Hello everyone, today I’m excited to present my latest crochet pattern, the “Gothic Crochet Table Runner.” 

If you’re looking to add a bit of gothic decor to your home, you’ll absolutely love this pattern! The black yarn and the lacy design will transform your dining or coffee table into a statement piece, plus you can tell all your guests you made it yourself! Talk about impressive.

The center of the table runner was inspired by the Gothic Crochet Stitch by astra.lebedeva2019 on Instagram. I loved the way these diamonds are created in that pattern, however for the tiny crochet thread we will be using, I wanted to make the diamonds look more lacy and a little thicker. 

This is a beautiful crochet table runner pattern, created with black crochet thread, however, it is another crochet pattern that takes time to complete and it is designed with crocheter’s who have an intermediate to advanced skill set. 

I didn’t time myself, and I’m a busy mom of little kids, so you’ll probably get it finished faster than me! If I had to guess, this probably took me a month to finish, of inconsistently crocheting 1-2 hours every day. Your time may vary obviously!

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I’ve adjusted the pattern instructions to allow you to make your table runner as long as you want. I don’t recommend making the short side longer than what I’ve described below, I think it makes the table runner look too wide on that side.

But seriously, look at how pretty this thing is! 

Now as a reminder, I try my best to make pattern instructions accurate, but I AM just a mom who likes to crochet, so please let me know if you see any errors by commenting below. 

With all that, let’s get started on this Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern!

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Ch(s) – chain(s)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • Fpdc – front post double crochet
  • Trc – treble crochet

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch – YO (yarn over), insert hook into designated st/space, pull up a loop x 5 times (11 loops on your hook), YO, pull through all but the last loop (2 loops on your hook), YO, pull through last 2 loops.

Triangle Increase/Decrease – I will discuss these two stitches in detail below. Essentially, this is a group of trcs/dcs that create the top or bottom part of our diamonds.

Special Instructions:

  • I do not have st counts at the end of the rows. This is to allow you freedom to make your table runner as long or short as you’d like.
  • Instructions in () are grouped this way to make it easier to read and is usually written this way to indicate a series of sts made in the same st.
  • There is a bit of math we will have to do later, but don’t worry, I will walk you through it as we get to those spots in the pattern.

Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

Ch 53

Row 1: *YO twice, insert into 8th ch from hook, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (5 loops on your hook), skip a ch.

YO insert your hook into next ch, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops (6 loops on your hook).

YO, pull through 4 loops, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through 2 loops again. This is your triangle decrease stitch.

Ch 2, skip 2 chs, trc into next ch, ch 1, dc into the first two “loops” in the leg of the trc you just crocheted (see pic below), ch 1, dc into same space, ch 1, dc into same space again. This is your triangle increase stitch

Ch 2, skip 2 chs*, repeat from *to* trc into the last ch (4 triangle decreases and 3 triangle increases)

triangle increase dc placement
First two "loops" of the trc in Row 1
GCTR Row 1
Row 1

Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as a trc and ch 2), turn, for this row, we will be making triangle decrease stitches on top of the previous row’s triangle increase stitches and vice versa. 

The last stitch from row 1 should have been a triangle decrease stitch, so for row 2, we will begin with a triangle increase stitch.

Skip the next ch 2 space, make a trc, but place it under the next stitch (not into it as you normally would). I find it helpful to think of this space as the “neck” of the last row’s triangle decrease stitch. Just find a space to insert your hook into the neck and trc there. If you trc into the stitch normally, the diamonds we are trying to create will look off-center. See pic below for a visual on the placement.

Triangle increase stitch as you did in row 1. Ch 2, now we will make a triangle decrease into the next triangle increase. Make a triangle decrease stitch as we did in row 1, using only the dcs and trc sts and skipping the ch 1 spaces between. 

If crocheted correctly, this will give us our first diamond shape. 

Ch 2 and repeat these two stitches with a ch 2 between each triangle increase and decrease After the last ch 2, finish your row by skipping 2 chs and trc into the next ch.

Row 3: Ch 6, turn, the first st below should be a triangle increase stitch, so we will begin with a triangle decrease stitch. ch 2, and triangle increase into the next triangle decrease like we did in row 2. There is no difference in this row compared to row 2, other than starting with a different triangle stitch. 

Repeat Rows 2-3 until you reach 62 rows or increase the length with a repeat of 12 rows, do not cut yarn.

Border:

Now we will be creating the border around our length of lacy diamonds. We need to do a few simple rows of sc around to create a nice, thick line, a few rows of mesh squares, and then we’ll finish with an intricate pattern consisting of a variety of stitches.

***Important note on length adjustments***

The last row of our scs border needs to follow a repeat of 27+24 sc (do not count the corner sts). We will be doing 3 rows total of sc. For each row, the sc will increase by two. 

So, for example, on the short side of our rectangle, we need to have a total of 47 sc on the first row. This will increase to 49 sc on the next row, and then to 51 sc on the last row. 27+24 = 51 sc.

This is where stitch markers come in handy on the long side to help you count. Just make a series of 27 sc and make sure that you can fit 24 more on the very last row of sc (row 3).

It seems like a lot, but this is the only way your beautiful border is going to fit. Avoid the headache later by getting the math right early, because we both know that we don’t have the time or patience to frog everything :).

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into the same st, ch 1 (place a stitch marker here to help identify the corners later, otherwise just pray you can find it later lol), sc again into the same st. Now turning down the side, we will be placing a series of 3 sc into the sides of either the turning chs or the trcs from the previous rows.

The last sc you made counts as part of that series of 3, so place 2 more sc into the side of the trc. See pic for a better visual below.

You will have to skip a ch when you reach the starting chs, and that is ok.

sc border placement

When you get close to the next corner, I found it easier to count 2 chs away from the triangle increase/decrease from the starting row and placing my corner st of (sc, ch 1, place a stitch marker, sc) into the next ch away. 

Now going down the next side (this should be the underside of our starting ch), place 1 sc into each ch 2 space, 1 sc into each of the bottoms of the 4 trc that make up the triangle decrease, 1 sc into each ch 2 space, and then 1 sc into the bottom of the triangle increase. Continue this way until you reach the next corner (the 3rd ch after you make 2 sc in the last ch 2 space) and (sc, ch 1, place a stitch marker, sc) in the same ch. 

***Make sure you have the same number of sts on each side***

Continue making sc around the next side and creating another corner st of (sc, ch 1, sc). 

Once you get back to the top of your work, sc into each st, but skip the ch 1s in the triangle increase stitches (it looks too wavy if you do).

Sl st to first sc.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, (sc, ch 1, place st marker, sc) into next ch 1 space, then make 1 sc in each st across (try not to skip the st right after you finish your corner st, sometimes it gets a little hidden). Continue making sc and your corners in this fashion. Sl st to first sc.

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, sc in next st, make a corner st in the next ch 1 space (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue making sc and corner sts as you did in row 2. Sl st to first sc. 

***Take the time here to double check your st counts , remember, your last row needs to have a repeat of 27+24 not including the ch 1 corners. If you need to, it’s ok to add or skip scs to achieve the repeat formula.***

Now we will be making our mesh square rows.

Row 4: Sl st into next few sts until you reach the corner ch 1 space, sl st into the ch 1 space, ch 8 (counts as dc and ch 5), dc in same space, *ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st* repeat from *to* all the way around. (dc, ch 5, dc) in the next ch 1 corner spaces. Sl st to top of 3rd ch of our starting ch 8.

***For my short side, I have 13 mesh squares and on my long side I have 58 mesh squares (not including the ch 5 corners) Your long side number may be different if you increased or decreased the length.***

Row 5: Ch 5, (counts as dc and ch 2), (dc, ch 5, dc) in next ch 5 corner space. *Ch 2, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* around, making (dc, ch 5, dc) in the ch 5 corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd st of starting ch 5.

Row 6: Ch 5, dc in next dc, ch 2, (dc, ch 5, dc), *ch 2, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to* around, making (dc, ch 5, dc) in the ch 5 corner spaces. Sl st to 3rd st of starting ch 5.

***Go ahead and stop again, let’s count our mesh squares. Our last row of mesh squares needs to follow a repeat formula of 9+8 squares, not including the corners. I have 17 squares on my short side and 62 squares on my long side. Your border will not fit if we don’t follow this formula.***

GCTR Mesh Squares
Row 6

Row 7: Sl st in each ch and st until you reach the first corner and sl st into the ch 5 space.

(Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in same ch 5 space. Ch 4, *skip over next dc and ch 2, skip over next dc and ch 2 again, sc into next dc (should be the 3rd dc away from the corner space), [skip ch 2 space, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next dc, skip ch 2 space, sc in next dc] x 2 times, ch 4, skip the next 2 mesh squares, in the next square, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc), ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until you reach the next corner space, skip over last two mesh squares, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch 5, 3dc) in the same ch 5 corner space. Continue this way until you reach the beginning ch, sl st into top of starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 7
Row 7

Row 8: Ch 3, (fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc), ch 4, skip ch 4 and next 3 dc,

*sc in ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, and place (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next sc (between the two shells), skip 3 dc and sc in ch 1 space, ch 4, skip 3 dc and ch 4, (dc in first dc, fpdc in next dc, dc in last dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around middle dc, and dc around last dc), ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until next corner space and (dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in ch 5 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc) in the corner. Continue this way until you reach the beginning ch, sl st into top of starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 8
Row 8

Row 9: Ch 3 (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 5,

*skip to ch 2 space, (2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc) in ch 2 space, ch 5, skip 3 dc, skip sc and skip ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 5.*

Repeat from *to* until you reach the corners, (dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 sc in ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch 4 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 5, skip to ch 2 space, (2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc) in corner spaces.

Continue this way until you reach beginning ch 3. Sl st to top of ch 3.

GCTR Row 9
Row 9

Row 10: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5*, dc in the 4th ch away in next ch 4, dc in next dc, dc in fpdc, ch 5, dc in same st, dc in next fpdc, dc in 1st ch in next 4 ch.

Repeat from *to,* dc in next dc, fpdc in fpdc, dc in next dc), ch 6,

**skip ch 5, skip first ch 4 “loop,” sc in middle ch 4 “loop,” ch 6, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 6.**

Repeat from **to** until corner spaces, (dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 5, skip ch 4, skip 2 sc, [2 sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, 2 sc] in next sc, ch 5*, dc in the 4th ch away in next ch 4, dc in next dc, dc in fpdc, ch 5, dc in same st, dc in next fpdc, dc in 1st ch in next 4 ch.

Repeat from *to,* dc in next dc, fpdc in fpdc, dc in next dc) in corner spaces. Continue this way until you reach the beginning, sl st to top of starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 10
Row 10

Row 11: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, *ch 11, skip over ch 5, skip the set of ch 4 loops, skip next ch 5, and dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc*, ch 5, puff st in next ch 5 space, ch 5, puff st in same space, ch 5, dc in next dc, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc. Repeat from *to* once more.)

**Ch 4, puff st in 6th ch in next ch 6, ch 3, skip next sc, puff st in 1st ch of next ch 6, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc**, repeat from *to* once more, repeat from **to.**

Continue this way until next corner space, ch 4, dc in next dc and repeat instructions in () for the next corner. Sl st to top of beginning ch 3.

GCTR Row 11 Corner
Row 11 Corner
GCTR Row 11
Row 11

Row 12: Ch 3, (fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 dc in 5th ch away, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, skip next 3 dc, skip 1st ch 5 space, puff st in next ch 5 space, ch 3, puff st in same space, ch 3, puff st in same space again, ch 4, skip next ch 5, skip next 3 dc, 2 dc in 5th ch, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc),

*ch 4, puff st in ch 3 space, ch 3, puff st in same st, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc, ch 4, 2 dc in 5th ch away, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 4, dc in next dc, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next dc.*

Repeat from *to* until next corner space, dc in next dc, repeat instructions in () for corners. Continue this way until beginning and sl st into top of starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 12 Corner
Row 12 Corner
GCTR Row 12
Row 12

Row 13: Sl st into next 2 dc, sl st into next 4 chs, sl st into dc, [ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, skip ch 4, puff st into next ch 3 space, ch 3, puff st in same space, ch 9, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in next ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in next 3 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc],

ch 4, *skip ch 4, skip next 3 dc, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in ch 3 space, ch 4, skip ch 4, skip 3 dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 9, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4.*

Repeat from *to* until corner spaces, (puff st, ch 3, puff st), in ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in next dc, repeat instructions in [ ] for corners. Continue this way until beginning and sl st into starting ch 3.

GCTR Row 13 Corner
Row 13 Corner
GCTR Row 13
Row 13

Row 14: Sl st into next 2 dc, sl st into ch 9 space, ch 3, **(ch 1, dc x 8 times [you should have 9 dc]), ch 2, skip 3 dc and sc into ch 4 space, ch 5, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) into next ch 3 space, (ch 3, puff st x 3 times [3 puff sts total]) in ch 9 space,  ch 3, (puff st, ch 3, puff st) in ch 3 space, ch 5,**

*sc into ch 4 space, ch 2, skip 3 dc, (dc, ch 1 x 8 times) in ch 9 space, 1 more dc into same ch 9 space, ch 2, skip 3 dc, sc into ch 4 space, ch 5 (puff st, ch 3, puff st) into ch 3 space, ch 5.*

Repeat from *to* until the next corner, skip 3 dc, dc into ch 9 space, repeat from **to** for corners. Sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

GCTR Row 14 Corner
Row 14 Corner
GCTR Row 14
Row 14

Row 15: Ch 7 (counts as trc and ch 3), 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, **(trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made x3 times), trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made, ch 3, sl st into same trc, ch 3, 2 dc into same trc again, (trc into next dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made x 3 times), trc in last dc, (you should have 9 trc and 9 “tags”) ch 2**

Skip ch 2, skip ch 5, *(puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) into next ch 3 space, (ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1)*

Skip next ch 3 space, repeat from *to* twice more, skip next ch 3 space (puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) in next ch 3 space. (You should have a total of 8 puff sts and 7 “tags” between the puff sts), ch 2, skip ch 5 space skip ch 2 space, trc into first dc, ch 3, 2 dc into trc just made,

Repeat from **to,** skip ch 2, skip ch 5, (puff st, ch 5, 2 dc into 4th ch away from hook, ch 3, sl st into same ch, ch 1, puff st) in next ch 3 space, ch 2, skip ch 5, skip ch 2, trc in first dc, repeat from **to** again.

Continue this way around until next corner, ch 2, trc into first dc and repeat from beginning for the corners. Sl st to 4th ch in starting ch 7.

GCTR Row 15 Corner
Row 15 Corner
GCTR Row 15
Row 15

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in any ends with tapestry needle.

CONGRATULATIONS!! You made it!!

Blocking:

To block your gothic crochet table runner, soak it in a large bowl of water for 1-2 minutes. Gently squeeze out the excess water.

Now, you can be fancy and use puzzle blocking boards to help you pin your table runner in place. These are great because you can make them as long and wide as you want (great for long crochet projects).

Or you can place it on a large towel/layer a few towels together, then pin it through the towels. 

Leave it to dry for at least 24 hours.

Thank you for checking out the Gothic Crochet Table Runner Pattern. I hope that yours turned out beautifully! If you have questions or if you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Until next time!

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32 Crochet Memes for Chaotic People

Are you a chaotic person? Do you love crochet? How about memes? Well all of your wildest fantasies are about to come true, because today I have 32 crochet memes for chaotic people.

Every one of these memes has been created by yours truly, and I hope they give you a big dose of relatable humor.

Enjoy 🙂

1.

Me, every time someone asks me what I’m “knitting.” IT’S CROCHET!

2.

Why can’t it be free!? Just kidding, I understand why people sell their crochet patterns…but STILL.

3.

There’s a reason I’m quietly crocheting, I’m literally reciting the crochet pattern almost constantly lol. Gotta stay in the zone.

4. 

Maybe not every day, but I can’t tell you how many times I’ve started a crochet pattern just to get bored or too frustrated and quit. But then I see another pattern and rinse and repeat.

5.

This is truly a chaotic crochet method. You ever get so far into a pattern, and you don’t have the correct number of stitches anymore because you were too lazy to put in your stitch markers? Well I have, and I’ve also said heck with it and kept going. It’ll work out, right?

7.

Frantically searching for the starting strand of your new yarn skein may be chaotic in itself, but I’m SICK OF DOING IT. Those easy start tags should be on every skein or ball of yarn, change my mind.

7.

For real though, people who post awesome crochet patterns for free are the real MVP’s.

8.

Do you like dark souls and crochet? Here’s a crochet dark souls accent pillow I made a while back. I still laugh when I see it!

Crocheting is how I feel better, what about you? Forget the work, stress, and anxieties of the day with a little yarn therapy!

9.

No, no I will not take a break. I want my blanket finished NOW.

10.

I can’t be the only one, right? This crochet meme really speaks to me! But once you figure out how to read one, they are like total game changers.

Plus they’re great if you are looking for a pattern that’s only in a different language (I’m looking at all you Russian doily makers out there, those crochet doilies are 🔥)

Speaking of doilies, check out my list of beautifully gothic crochet doilies in this post. They’re black AND lacy AND awesome.

11.

It’s true, I feel amazing once that crochet blanket I’ve worked on tirelessly gets long enough to cover my legs. It feels like I’ve actually done something for once lol.

12.

This one is for my fellow crochet pattern creators. I’m not the best at math, and it’s weird because I’ll just go and start making whatever because I feel impatient, but in reality it would really save me time if I would just sit down and do the math!

Although to be fair, my children often distract me and I have to redo A LOT.

13.

Crochet is my LIFE. Or at least a favorite hobby of mine lol. What about you? Without crochet are you nothing?? 

Crochet and frogs…what a great combination. You can enjoy the same combination with this fun crochet frog bucket hat pattern

14.

Seriously! Sometimes that yarn looks so nice too. Then you start to crochet with it and your hook will grab only a few of the strands instead of all of them..so frustrating! OR when you inevitably make a mistake and need to frog your work and the freakin yarn twists on itself and makes knots.

15.

I will never make one of these again lol. If you don’t know what this blanket it is, just a quick Google search will show you this long and complex crochet blanket. I did learn a lot of interesting stitches doing it though.

16.

grug crochet meme

Literally me. When I think, I just start getting sad and mad…good thing there’s crochet! Crocheting just melts all those bad thoughts away. Can’t be sad when you don’t have time to think about it.

17.

Okay I used to be this way, but I’ve learned to do a magic ring or a magic circle, whatever you want to call it.

It’s really difficult to learn at first (at least I thought it was), so I opted for the good ol’ chain 2 and crocheting into the first chain.

18.

Man, I hate when this happens. I’m chugging along and I crochet a couple of rows, only to find that when I lay it down to admire my work, I made a mistake hours ago. Sometimes I contemplate whether I should just keep going, frog it and fix it, or give up on the whole thing.

I guess I should count my stitches each row…but I also DON’T WANT TO. It’s quite the predicament.

19.

Sometimes it just makes more sense to buy a blanket for 20 bucks at the store than it is to spend 50 dollars on yarn to crochet a blanket that may or may not get done this year. When I actually do the math, sometimes it makes me sad.

20.

Or have I???

21.

In case anyone needs ideas on what to get me for Christmas 🙂

22.

I can’t be the only one can I? A lot of crochet ideas and patterns have gone unfinished during my time. Or many of them got played with and lost (looking at you kids!).

23. 

This is truly a chaotic crochet meme! Just go in there and get what you want boo! Rent can wait.

24.

Sorry, it’s not my fault, the snail told me to do it. This is what I say to myself as I add my new skein to my 5,000 other skeins.

25.

Honestly, this happens so often that I either only crochet when they’re asleep, or I have to use a stitch marker every 25 stitches lol!

26.

This is more specific to me, as this was literally what inspired me to get into crochet. Of course beginner me wanted to crochet and AMIGURUMI project that was mostly in BLACK. Needless to say, it turn out to be an abomination. 

27.

Is this true for you? It used to be for me! It’s actually not too bad when you’re used to it. If you need help, check out my tips for crocheting with black yarn.

28.

For real! Drugs are bad, crochet is good!

29.

I would be so rich if this was the case!

30.

Okay another oddly specific meme, but this is me like every other grocery store run. I can hear my husband shaking his head already.

31.

32.

I hope you enjoyed these 32 memes for chaotic people! Let me know which ones you like best!

Gothic Crochet Pattern – Black Coasters!

Have you been looking for a gothic crochet pattern, but maybe can’t find a simple or practical one? Well fellow goth crocheters, you can rejoice! Today I have for you; a gothic crochet coaster pattern!

Do you like the gothic aesthetic? Maybe you simply love crocheting with black yarn? Or maybe you hate yourself enough to not only try crocheting with black yarn but…*gasp* TINY black yarn (I’m only kidding, but kinda not really ;)).

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

For this gothic crochet coaster pattern, I’m using Fashion Crochet Thread from Red Heart. I had a hard time deciding what sort of yarn to use for this pattern. I tried using some medium 4 black acrylic yarn, but it ended up being a little too fuzzy and thick for my liking (black cotton yarn probably would have been fine, I just didn’t have any!). 

The normal crochet thread I use would have taken too long to make all the puff stitches, but this fashion thread is JUST the right thickness to make this coaster. 

Skill Level Needed:

I’m just going to say that this black crochet coaster is for an intermediate skilled crochet or one that is willing to learn how to 1) crochet in the round and 2) learn how to crochet puff stitches.

I’ve used a magic circle to start this coaster, but you can also simply chain 2 and crochet into the first chain. 

Related Posts:

Puff Stitches: The Heart of the Design

The puff stitch is the star of this pattern. Why puff stitches? Well, it’s a dense stitch that provides the perfect thickness for a crochet coaster when paired with this type of thread. 

You don’t want a totally thin coaster, because if you have any spillage from sipping your favorite beverage, you want your coaster to catch it and not seep through to the table or surface you’re trying to keep nice. 

How to Crochet a Puff Stitch:

Don’t know how to make a puff stitch? No problem! Let’s discuss the short and detailed version of making this stitch.

  • Short: Yarn over (YO) and insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop three times (7 loops on your hook) YO and pull through all 7 loops.
  • Detailed: Yarn over (YO), insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop, (5 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on your hook). YO one last time and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.

Try to stay consistent with how far you pull your loops up. You’ll want to pull them up high enough that you can get your hook through all loops. Too high and your puff stitch will be too loose, but if you do it too low, it’ll be too hard to pull your hook through.

With all of that in mind, let’s dive on into this lovely, gothic crochet coaster!

Size:

  • This coaster’s diameter is about 4.25” 
  • Your size may vary depending on your tension.
  • If you use a different sized yarn or hook than I used, your final coaster may be smaller or bigger.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Mc – magic circle
  • Ch – chain

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch – Yarn over (YO), insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop, (5 loops on your hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on your hook). YO one last time and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.

Special Instructions:

  • The first round is started with a magic circle, alternatively you can chain 2 and crochet into the first chain.
  • The starting chain 1’s at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch
  • Many patterns will have you chain 1 after you puff stitch to “close” it…we will not be doing this. You’ll go straight into the next puff stitch from the previous one.
  • The number in parenthesis at the end of the round indicates how many stitches you should have. 

Gothic Crochet Coaster Pattern:

  • Round 1: 8 puff sts in mc, sl st to first puff st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 puff sts in every st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
    • **Protip: Having a hard time seeing your stitches? Use a stitch marker after you make your first puff stitch in the round so you know where to join!**
  • Round 3: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next st, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 2 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 3 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 4 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: 2 puff sts in first st, *1 puff st in next 5 sts, 2 puff sts in next st.* Repeat from *to,* sl st to first st (56 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

And there you have it! Enjoy your simple, functional, AND gothic crochet masterpiece! As your coaster finds its place, I hope that it brings that little bit of darkness to your surroundings you’ve been looking for ;).

Until next time!

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7 Best Yarns to Use for Crochet Baskets

Hello everyone, today we are learning about the 7 best yarns to use for crochet baskets! 

Crochet baskets can be nifty little storage wonders that can be practical and pretty, but before you start your project, you may be wondering, what yarn should I be using? 

Picture this – you got your favorite crochet hook ready, a Pinterest worthy pattern in hand, and an imagination brimming with visions of a perfectly crocheted masterpiece. But guess what? You hit a snag (maybe literally!), and the culprit? Yup, you guessed it, your yarn isn’t holding up.

It’s bending and falling over, and doesn’t quite hold the shape of that beautiful basket you had pictured.

But worry not, I’m here to share the best yarn to avoid further crochet fiascoes! 

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

What to Look for When Choosing Yarn for a Crochet Basket 

First, let’s consider a few things to look for in choosing the correct yarn for your crochet basket.

  • Durability: Let’s be real, your basket’s gonna hold stuff – maybe lots of stuff. So, pick a yarn that’s like the Hulk of fibers. Think strong, durable, and ready to handle the weight of your random things.
  • Stiffness: Sagging baskets? Not on your watch. Look for a yarn with a bit of stiffness, or better yet, double up on your yarn strands or look for bulky, thick yarns.
  • Weight: Thin and delicate or thick and chunky – it’s your choice. Match the yarn weight to the basket size you’re aiming for. Thicker, bulkier yarns are better for larger baskets that need to hold way more weight, while finer yarns work well for small, delicate baskets.
  • Texture: Smooth, chunky, or funky textures – the choice is yours. But remember, the texture can add character and visual appeal to your basket. 
  • Color Options: Yarns come in all shades of pretty colors. Whether you’re into rainbow explosions or calming neutrals, pick a color that speaks to you.
  • Absorbency: If you plan to use the basket for holding items in moisture prone areas like the bathroom or kitchen, consider yarns that are absorbent, like cotton yarn. No one wants a soggy surprise.
  • Purpose: What will you use your basket for?. Will it be used as a decoration, hold delicate items, or carry heavy loads? The purpose of the basket will influence the yarn weight and fiber you should choose.
  • Eco-Friendliness: If you wanna show mother nature some love, consider yarns that are sourced from eco-friendly and responsible suppliers. Natural fibers like cotton, jute, and hemp are often more environmentally conscious choices.
  • Budget: If you’re like me, being budget-conscious is important. Consider the cost of your chosen yarn. Remember, pricier doesn’t always mean better. Balance quality with what your wallet can handle.

How to Prevent a Saggy Crochet Basket

Aside from choosing the right yarn for your basket, let’s discuss a few ways you can strengthen and prevent your basket from sagging. 

  • Use Tight Stitches: This might seem obvious, but a lot of interesting and intricate stitches look pretty, however they may not be the best choice for a sturdy basket. Try slip stitches, single crochets, half double crochets, or a combination of the three. Avoid using chains and taller stitches like double or treble crochet stitches.
  • Use a Smaller Hook: Going down a hook size or two than what your yarn calls for, can help you make your stitches even tighter! 
  • Internal Reinforcement: Try slipping in a wire or using ropes within your stitches to help reinforce the sides of the basket and have it stand tall. You can do this by literally crocheting over the wire or rope as you go. Even doubling up on your yarn strands will help.
  • Make a Strong Base: Start your base in a continuous round (circular or rectangular), but when you start the first round of the body of the basket, crochet in the back loop. Then you can crochet as normal for the rest of the rounds. This helps your base keep whatever shape you’re going for.
  • Add a Lining: Try using a lining to strengthen the sides. Use a plastic sheets (these little mesh sheets are great) or hot glue cardboard with a pretty fabric over it to the inside.
  • Starch or Glue: If you already made your crochet basket, try using a mixture of glue/starch and water, paint it onto the outside of your basket and place it into something that has a similar shape (like a mixing bowl or use the top of the trash can). Allow it to dry. Repeat on the inside.  

Alright, with all those tips in mind, let’s check out the absolute best yarns to make your crochet basket! 

7 Best Yarns to Choose for a Crochet Basket:

1) T-Shirt Yarn

T-shirt yarn is made from repurposed fabric and offers a pretty cool texture and awesome strength that can handle heavy loads. Baskets made from this type of yarn are not only very sturdy, but they are also eco-friendly, making them a great choice for environmentally-conscious crocheters.

2) Nylon Yarn

Nylon is a synthetic fabric that has a lot of strength and resilience. It’s often blended with other natural fibers like cotton or wool to help make them sturdier. Crochet baskets made with nylon yarn can also handle moisture from frequent use, which can make them great for bathroom or kitchen storage.

3) Cotton Yarn

Cotton yarn is a classic choice for sturdy crocheted baskets. Its natural strength and ability to hold its shape makes it a perfect choice for crocheting baskets that can handle a variety of items, from small accessories to larger household essentials. 

4) Jute Yarn

Known for its exceptional durability, jute yarn produces crochet baskets that aren’t only sturdy, but also have a charming, rustic appearance. This yarn can be blended with other fibers and is able to withstand heavier weight, which is perfect for storing toys, tools, or even firewood.

5) Hemp Yarn

Similar to jute and cotton, hemp is an excellent choice for crocheting baskets that need to withstand wear and tear. Its resistance to stretching and shrinking will ensure that your basket will retain its shape, even with regular use.

6) Acrylic Yarn

Acrylic yarn has a wide range of colors and is easy (and cheap) to work with. Crocheting baskets with acrylic yarn can give off vibrant hues, making it a good choice for organizing children’s toys or other school supplies. I would suggest crocheting with bulky acrylic yarn and crocheting your stitches tightly.

7) Wool Yarn

Wool yarn produces baskets with a cozy feel and excellent insulation properties. These is a great choice for storing cold-weather items like gloves, hats, and scarves.  

So there you have it, yarn lovers! Armed with this info, I hope you’re ready to rock your crochet game and whip up some functional and stylish baskets with these types of yarn. 

And remember, with the right yarn, your baskets will be the talk of the town (or living room at least!) 

Until next time!

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Crochet Blissful Bookmark – Free Pattern

Hello everyone! Today I have a wonderful crochet pattern for you. I’m calling this the Blissful Crochet Bookmark pattern! It’s a beautiful and functional crochet pattern. 

If you’re a book lover like me, you know the joy you feel when reading a good story. And what better way to mark your place than with a handmade crochet bookmark! Or better yet, gift it to a friend who loves books!

I’m also so in love with the color of the crochet threads I’ve used for this bookmark. The purple color is called Antique from Artiste and wow, it really does have a vintage-inspired hue, giving any crochet project an elegant and nostalgic touch. The tan one is Natural from Red Heart.

I couldn’t decide which color I liked best, so I’m including them both.

Crochet Bookmark Free Pattern
Bookmark in Antique
Crochet Bookmark Lace
Bookmark in Natural

Feel free to use any color yarn you’d like, just make sure you’re using a size 10 yarn, or your bookmark might end up being too large or small. Size 10 yarn or smaller is the perfect sized yarn for any crochet bookmark.

We’ll be crocheting on the underside of the starting chain, forming a long oval shape. When you get to the end of the row, we’ll add a few stitches to help round out the edge and then continue crocheting in the underside.

I recommend blocking your bookmark when you are finished. Without blocking, your bookmark will curl a little bit. I like to block my crochet projects by soaking it in water, patting it dry and then pinning it to a mat (or a pizza box works great too). You can add starch to make it stiff if you’d like as well.

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I hope you all enjoy the Blissful Crochet Bookmark pattern! As always, I try my best to accurately count stitches, if you see a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Used:

Abbreviations:

  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Instructions:

  • The starting chain 1s do not count as a stitch
  • The numbers in parentheses at the end of each row signifies how many stitches or types of stitches you should have.
  • I have used parentheses for certain stitches that are repeated to make it visually easier to read.

Crochet Blissful Bookmark Pattern:

Ch 54

  • Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into each ch across, 3 total sc in last ch, turning down the underside of the ch, 1 sc into each ch across, 1 sc in last ch, sl st into first st (108 sts)
  • Row 2: ch 1, sc in same st as joining st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, *(ch 3, skip a st, 1 sc in next st) x3 times total, 1 sc in next 3 sts.* Repeat from *to* 5 times. (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 2 times total. 1 sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from *to* 5 times once more. 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sl st into first sc (82 sc, 30 ch 3 spaces)
  • Row 3: sl st into next 3 sts, ch 1, sc in same st,*ch 5, skip over next 4 sts, 1 sc in 1st ch 3 space, (ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space) x2 times.*  Repeat from *to* until last ch 3 space has been sc into, **ch 5, skip 4 sts, 1 sc into next st, ch 9, skip 5 sts,** 1 sc into next st. Repeat from *to* once more. Repeat from **to,** sl st into first sc. (34 sc, 2 ch 9 spaces, 12 ch 5 spaces, 24 ch 3 spaces)
  • Row 4: ch 1, sc in same st as joining st, *9 dc in next ch 5 space, 1 sc in next ch 3 space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to,* until last ch 3 space sc into, **9 dc in next ch 5 space, 1 sc in next sc, 12 dc in ch 9 space**, 1 sc in next sc. Repeat from *to* once more, until last ch 3 space sc into. Repeat from **to,** sl st to first sc. (24 sc, 10 ch 3 spaces, 114 dc)

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Blissful Crochet Bookmark Easy

That’s it! What do you think about the Blissful Crochet Bookmark? I hope your bookmarks turned out beautifully! 

Until next time!

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Free Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth Pattern

Hello everyone! Today I have a lovely crochet burp cloth pattern available for you! These burp cloths are made with the ever-popular Peaches and Creme cotton yarn. I honestly think they look so bright and clean!

Make These For A Wonderful Handmade Gift!

Aside from making these for yourself, this can be a thoughtful gift that can be given to a variety of individuals or institutions. Here are some ideas of who would appreciate receiving these crochet burp cloths as a gift:

  • Expectant or New Parents – Gifting crochet burp cloths to expectant or new parents can be a wonderful gesture. They’re a practical item for newborns and the fact that it’s handmade adds a personal and heartfelt element to the gift (I’ve almost cried over handmade gifts given for my babies because they were so thoughtful…darn hormones!).
  • Baby Showers and Gift Exchanges – If you’re invited to a baby shower or participating in a gift exchange, and have the crochet skills, these burp cloths can be an excellent choice. Your handmade gift will be unique, as no one can find one in stores, and hopefully new parents will appreciate the practicality and charm of it!
  • Churches, Charitable Organizations or Hospitals – If you enjoy crocheting for a cause, consider donating your handmade crochet burp cloths to a church, charitable organizations or local hospitals. Many organizations support families in need and your beautiful gift can provide comfort and absorbency to babies from these families. I worked at a hospital that accepted crochet donations (blankets, hats, and bereavement items for stillborns). 

Why Cotton Yarn is a Good Choice for a Burp Cloth:

Feel free to use any yarn you’d like, as long as it’s #4 worsted weight (medium) yarn. If you use a different weight, your burp cloth may become too big or small! I also like using cotton yarn instead of acrylic yarn . 

You can use acrylic, but it’s not very absorbent, and you should try to soften it up before using it on a baby’s delicate skin. 

Here are a few reasons why cotton yarn is a good choice for this crochet project:

  • Softness against baby’s skin – Cotton is renowned for its exceptional softness, making it a great choice for crocheted baby items. You want material that is gentle and non-irritating during use.
  • Absorbency – One of the primary uses for a burp cloth is to absorb spit-ups, drool, and other small spills. Cotton yarn excels in this aspect as it has excellent absorbent properties. The natural fibers in cotton can hold up to 27 times its own weight, making it readily able to soak up spills to keep you, and baby, dry and clean.
  • Breathability – Cotton is a breathable material, allowing air to circulate freely through the fabric. This can help prevent your baby from overheating. The breathability of cotton ensures that the moisture absorbed by the burp cloth evaporates quickly, reducing the chances of discomfort or rashes from trapped moisture.
  • Easy to clean – Babies are notorious for creating messes, and burp cloths are no exception. Choosing a material that is easy to clean is essential. Cotton yarn is machine washable, making it a convenient choice for busy parents. Simply toss the burp cloths into a washing machine, and they will come out fresh and clean, ready to be used again.
  • Durability – Burp cloths undergo frequent washing and heavy use, so durability is an important factor to consider. Cotton yarn is known for its strength and longevity, the natural fibers make it highly resilient and able to withstand repeated washing and drying.

This Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth is designed to be beginner-friendly, making it accessible to both seasoned crocheters and those that are new. With just a few basic stitches, you’ll be able to whip up these beautiful burp cloths in no time! 

We’ll be using a stitch pattern called the Suzette Stitch today. The suzette stitch combines single and double crochet stitches in a simple, but unique way to achieve its distinct texture. The alternating single and double crochets create a balanced pattern that is visually appealing and functional, and the subtle texture provides a gentle surface that can help catch and absorb liquids. 

Here’s a close up of the texture we’ll be making in each color:

Texture in Mint
Mint
Burp Cloth Texture in Royal
Royal
Texture in Ecru
Ecru

Alright, let’s grab our hooks and our favorite colored Peaches and Creme colors and dive on in!

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Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK.

  • Ch – chain
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Size:

  • 7 in x 17 in (this will vary depending on your tension)

Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth Pattern:

Ch 21

  • Row 1: Make 1 sc into second ch from hook, 1 dc into the same ch, *skip 1 ch, (1 sc and 1 dc) into next ch* repeat from *to.* Your last ch should end up with a (1 sc and 1 dc) worked into it. (20 sts)
  • Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, *skip 1 st and work (1 sc and 1 dc) into the next st (this should be the sc from the previous row)*. Repeat from *to* (20 sts)

Row 3-46: Repeat Row 2.

Border: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each st across, 2 sc in last st (the corner), turning down the long side of the burp cloth, sc all the way to the next corner. I found that placing 2 sc into each leg or “bump” of the dc, then skipping the ch 1’s gave the cleanest edge. 2 sc in next corner st. Continue until last st, sl st into first st.

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in ends with tapestry needle.

Sc placement for border
Try to sc here.

That’s all! Thank you for checking out this Peaches and Creme Crochet Burp Cloth pattern! I hope that you love these as much as I do!

Until next time!

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