Month: July 2022

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 2
Patterns

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 2/4

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If you’ve completed Part 1/4 of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner, you should be able to make open and closed squares without difficulty. I will be changing how I describe the following rows in part 2-4. Instead of describing the placement of CH1s and DCs, I’m going to tell you where to place open or closed squares.

Remember:

  • An open square consists of a series of (DC, CH1, skipping a ST or CH1 space, DC)
  • A closed square consists of a series of 3 DC, with the 2nd DC being in a ST or CH1 space.

You can download a PDF of the crochet Pikachu Table Runner below. I highly recommend looking at the chart as you go. 

Another reminder; read this chart up and down and towards the right. Black squares = closed squares and white squares = open squares in this chart.

The CH4 counts as a DC and CH1 for each row.

Click here for Part 1.

Click here for Part 3.

Click here for Part 4.

Click Here for Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Chart

Related Posts:

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials:

Size:

10.5 in x 58 in 

Please note that your size may differ depending on your tension.

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 2

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 2/4

  • Row 45: going down, turn, CH4, make 9 open squares, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares)
  • Row 46: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares)
  • Row 47: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until the first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares)
  • Row 48: going up, repeat row 47
  • Row 49: going down, turn, CH4, make 10 open squares (should have last open square on top of a closed square from previous row), make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares)
  • Row 50: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares)
  • Row 51: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares)
  • Row 52: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (28 open squares, 10 closed squares)
  • Row 53: going down, repeat row 52
  • Row 54: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make a closed square, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (34 open squares, 4 closed squares)
  • Row 55: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make a closed square, make open squares until end of row. (34 open squares, 4 closed squares)
  • Row 56: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares before the first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares, 3 closed squares)
  • Row 57: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (34 open squares, 4 closed squares)
  • Row 58: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make open squares until the end of row. (36 open squares, 2 closed squares) the second Pikachu’s tail is now complete
  • Row 59: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares)
  • Row 60: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares from first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares)
  • Row 61: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make open square until end of row. (27 open squares, 10 closed squares)
  • Row 62: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares)
  • Row 63: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 2 open squares, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares)
  • Row 64: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares before first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares)
  • Row 65: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 17 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (21 open squares, 17 closed squares)
  • Row 66: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 15 closed squares, make open square until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares)
  • Row 67: going down, turn, CH4, make open square until 4 open squares before first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 15 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (20 open squares, 18 closed squares)
  • Row 68: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 more open squares, make 10 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares)
  • Row 69: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until two squares before first closed square from previous row, make a closed square, make an open square, make another closed square, make 2 open squares, make 14 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
  • Row 70: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 12 closed squares, make 2 closed squares, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
  • Row 71: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
  • Row 72: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
  • Row 73: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
  • Row 74: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
  • Row 75: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 17 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (20 open squares, 18 closed squares).
  • Row 76: goin up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 5 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 10 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
  • Row 77: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make 2 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares). 
  • Row 78: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 4 open squares, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
  • Row 79: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
  • Row 80: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
  • Row 81: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 3 open squares, 5 closed squares. (30 open squares, 8 closed squares).
  • Row 82: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (28 open squares, 10 closed squares). 
  • Row 83: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 more open squares, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares).
  • Row 84: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 more open squares, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares, 3 closed squares).
  • Row 85-86: going down, then up, turn, CH4, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares).

Congratulations! You’ve finished your 2nd Pikachu, only 2 more to go! Take a rest, give your wrists a break and we’ll continue on to Part 3.

Click here for Part 3.

Click here for Part 4.

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern
Patterns

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern Part 1/4

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Hello everyone, I’m excited to show off my latest crochet pattern…a Crochet Pikachu Table Runner! I’ve been in love with using small crochet thread by Red Heart Super Saver recently (which is how I made this piece).

I’ve decided to make this crochet pikachu table runner a 4 part series, this first part will be fairly long, however that is to get you used to the filet crochet technique I’m using here. I will link the parts later in this post once they are complete. 

Click here for Part 2.

Click here for Part 3.

Click here for Part 4.

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner

The funny thing about this pattern is that I was actually trying to figure out how I could make a pikachu doily instead…but it turned out to be WAY too difficult for me to do. I just couldn’t get pikachu small enough to make out all the necessary details in the doily. However, the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern was born! 

It will be helpful if you know how to filet crochet already, but if you don’t, no worries. I have the crochet math figured out for you, and after a few rows, you’ll get the hang of it!

If you’re a visual person, there’s a PDF download of the chart I used below. The white color = open squares and the black color = closed squares. Keep in mind that this chart reads differently than previous charts I’ve created. Instead of crocheting left to right and working up, you will need to crochet up and down and to the right if looking at the chart. 

Why would I do it this way? It might seem a little confusing to read it like this (and you can always print the PDF out and turn it), but this helps prevent a lot of frogging if you mess up. It is super not fun to pull out a long row of crochet because you misplaced 1 closed block, but if it happens on the short side, it doesn’t hurt as bad (in my opinion anyways).

Stick around for the border too! I think the border completes this piece and gives it a vintage crochet vibe that I was shooting for. Borders just make crochet pieces look so much better, but they’re always optional.

Related Posts:

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials:

Size:

My table runner ended up being about 10.5 in x 58 in 

Please note that your size may differ depending on your tension.

Time to Complete:

The Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern took me about 2 weeks of inconsistent crocheting to complete. Your time may vary.

Abbreviations:

Please note that these are in US terms not UK.

  • ST(s) – stitch(es)
  • SL ST – slip stitch
  • CH – chain
  • SC – single crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • CH3 PICOT – chain 3 stitches, slip stitch in last stitch made

Important Notes:

  • The Math: 38 squares x2 = 76+4 chs. The +4 is for the turning ch plus a ch 1.
  • The filet crochet method used for this pattern includes the 3DC method. That means that a total of 3 DC makes an open or closed square.
  • The CH3’s at the beginning of the row counts as a DC.
  • At the end of the rows, I have included the words up and down. This is based on looking the PDF chart.
  • The border makes a beautiful finish, however the stitches on the long side before the corner, will not line up evenly like on the short side. This makes the border slightly off on those sides. I’ve made adjustments to the pattern to make it less noticeable, and when you’re finished it will be difficult to tell.

If you make this pattern and post to social media, please don’t forget to tag me on Instagram @strommercrafts! Please do not claim this pattern as your own. 

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern
Click Here for Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Chart

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern

The Math: 38 squares x2 = 76+4 chs, dc in 6th ch from hook

CH 80

1st Pikachu

  • Row 1: DC in 6th ch from hook, CH1, skip a CH, DC in next CH, all the way to the end. (38 open squares) down. (Place your stitch marker, paperclip, or scrap piece of yarn on one side so you can determine which direction you were going when you need to stop).
  • Row 2: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, all the way to the end, place last DC in 3rd CH from last row’s CH4 (this is how you will end all rows throughout this pattern). (38 open squares) up
  • Row 3: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (you should have 3 open squares at this point). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 6 times), (now you should have 6 closed blocks). CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down
  • Row 4: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you get to the first closed block from previous row), DC in next 12 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) up
  • Row 5-6: Repeat Row 4 (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down, up
  • Row 7: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times, CH1, skip a DC, DC in next DC), (this will make an open square on top of a closed square from the previous row). (DC in next 10 STS, DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (this creates a closed square on top of an open square from previous row). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down
  • Row 8: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 12 STS. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) up
  • Row 9: Repeat Row 8 (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down
  • Row 10: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue this and stop 1 open square before the series of closed squares), DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC (you have a closed square on top of an open square from previous row), DC in next 10 STS, CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) up
  • Row 11: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you reach first closed square from previous row), DC in next 12 STS. (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times, you will have 3 closed blocks on top of 3 open squares from previous row). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) down
  • Row 12: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 18 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) up
  • Row 13: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 18 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next Dc x 3 times, you will have 3 closed squares on top of 3 open squares from previous row. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) down
  • Row 14: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 2 times, you will have 2 open squares on top of 2 closed squares from previous row). DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 6 times, 6 open squares on top of 6 closed squares from previous row). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (34 open squares, 4 closed squares) up
  • Row 15: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), (DC, skip a ST, DC in next ST, 1 open square on top of closed square from previous row), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, 1 open square on top of 1 open square from previous), DC in next 2 STS. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (34 open squares, 4 closed squares) down
  • Row 16: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square, DC in CH1 space, DC in next SC, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 3 times, 3 open squares on top of 3 closed squares), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row. (36 open squares, 2 closed squares) up. At this point you should have most of Pikachu’s tail completed.
  • Row 17: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (33 open squares, 5 closed blocks) down
  • Row 18: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 3 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times), DC in next 6 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row) (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) up
  • Row 19: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 16 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (27 open squares, 11 closed squares) down
  • Row 20: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (25 open squares, 13 closed squares) up
  • Row 21: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 26 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (23 open squares, 15 closed squares) down
  • Row 22: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 24 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (22 open squares, 16 closed squares) up
  • Row 23: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC, you will have made 4 open squares), DC in next 24 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (25 open squares, 13 closed squares). Down
  • Row 24: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC. until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 4 times), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) up
  • Row 25: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 4 times), DC in next 8 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 3 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) down
  • Row 26: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 12 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) up
  • Row 27: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 4 times), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 6 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (24 open squares, 14 closed squares). Down
  • Row 28: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 8 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 10 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (19 open squares, 19 closed squares). Up
  • Row 29: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH 1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 20 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (19 open squares, 19 closed squares). Down
  • Row 30: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 20 STS, (CH 1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH 1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (19 open squares, 19 closed squares) Up
  • Row 31: Turn, CH4, skip CH 1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (18 open squares, 20 closed squares) Down
  • Row 32: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (21 open squares, 17 closed squares) up
  • Row 33: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (22 open squares, 16 closed squares). Down
  • Row 34: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 26 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (24 open squares, 14 closed squares) Up
  • Row 35: start of Pikachu’s head Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) down
  • Row 36: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (28 open squares, 10 closed squares), Up
  • Row 37: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 14 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (27 open squares, 11 closed squares). Down
  • Row 38: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 6 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (25 open squares, 13 closed squares). Up
  • Row 39: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 3 times), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (28 open squares, 10 closed squares) down
  • Row 40: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 8 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times), DC in next 8 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (27 open squares, 11 closed squares) up
  • Row 41: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (30 open squares, 8 closed squares). Down
  • Row 42: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 4 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (35 closed squares, 3 open squares) Up
  • Row 43-44: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 3 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (38 closed squares).
Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 1

You’ve now completed part 1/4 of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner. 

I will be posting the next parts here as I finish them.

Click here for Part 2.

Click here for Part 3.

Click here for Part 4.

Thank you as always, if you see a mistake or have questions let me know in the comments below.

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Mandala Cake Crochet Pattern
Patterns

Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern – The Magic Mirror

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Hello everyone, today I have a free crochet baby blanket pattern for you. This is the Magic Mirror blanket, made with self striping yarn from Lion Brand! The line is called Mandala in the Warlock color. 

This is my first time using a self striping yarn (also known as a cake), and I’m pleasantly surprised with how the stripes lined up! I had to name this blanket something magical…the yarn is called Warlock of course! I think that the way the squares around the center are made reminded me of a colorful mirror.

It’s also really nice that you don’t have to cut your yarn and add new colors every couple of rows with self striping yarn. 

Free Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern The Magic Mirror

I’m using one ball of Lion Brand’s Mandala in Warlock for this pattern. It’s a little bit smaller than a typical crochet baby blanket, but it’s great for using as a blanket for your baby in a car seat or stroller, or even for those little preemie babies (if the nurses will let you bring it in the NICU). 

I’ve created this blanket from the center out. I prefer center out crochet when I’m not sure how big my blanket will be, this helps me keep a nice, even square shape no matter what round I need to stop. I’m using a magic circle (magic ring) to start, but you can easily ch 2 and crochet into the first ch instead.

I’m using a stitch called the Wattle Stitch. The stitch is simple once you get started, it is composed of a (sc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch, then skipping 2 sts or skipping to reach the next chain space.

Okay, let’s get started!

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Size

25 in x 25 in, depending on your tension

Time to Complete

This crochet baby blanket took me about 2-3 days of inconsistent crocheting to complete.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Please note that these are in US terms, not UK.

  • Mc – magic circle
  • Ch(s) – chain(s)
  • St – stitch
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Helpful Tips:

  • The starting ch 1’s in each row do not count as a stitch.
  • We will be turning after finishing each row, this gives the wattle stitch a great looking texture.
  • How the corners are crocheted will alternate rounds. So round 2, 4, 6, 8 etc. will have the same type of corner and rounds 3, 5, 7, 9, etc. will have the same type or corner. I found that using wattle stitches to increase in the corners every round made it wave too much. I suspect it is from having too many stitches in the corners, so alternating made the blanket lay flat.
Mandala Cake Crochet Pattern

Magic Mirror Crochet Baby Blanket

  • Round 1: 12 sc in mc (alternatively you can ch 2 and sc in first ch), sl st to first sc
Magic Mirror Crochet Blanket
  • Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as st), *(sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in same st, skip 2 sts* repeat from *to* around, sl st to first sc. As a helpful reminder, the series of (sc, ch 1, dc) is the Wattle Stitch.
easy crochet baby blanket
  • Round 3: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, *skip next st, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip next st, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip next 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* around until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip a st, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc.
Striped Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern
  • Round 4: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, skip next 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 2 space, skip next 2 sts (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip next 2 sts* repeat from *to* around until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc.
  • Round 5: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip next st, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip next st, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip 2 sts x3 times], skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip a st, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc.
  • Round 6: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, skip 2 sts, *(sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 2 space, skip 2 sts, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip 2 sts x4 times]* repeat from *to* until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space, [skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space x2 times], sl st to first sc.

At this point, hopefully you have the hang of how we are increasing our square with the wattle stitch, I’m going to refine how I describe the following rounds.

  • Round 7: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, skip 2 sts until next ch 2 space], *(sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, [skip st(s) until next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space until next ch 2 space]* repeat from *to* around until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space until last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc
  • Round 8: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, wattle stitch, aka (sc, ch 1, dc) until the first ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space, wattle stitch around, make the (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) for your ch 2 corners, sl st to first sc.
  • Round 9: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, wattle stitch until the first ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 corner space, wattle stitch around, make the (sc, ch 2, dc) for your ch 2 corners, sl st to first sc
  • Round 10: repeat round 8
  • Round 11: repeat round 9

Continuing like this, make your wattle stitches in the ch 1 spaces, increase in the corners by alternating rounds between the (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) and the (sc, ch 2, dc). Sl st to the beginning of the round and turn.

After completing the last round, sl st to first st, cut yarn with scissors, pull through and weave in  your end.

And there’s your Magic Mirror Crochet Baby Blanket! I hope you found this free crochet pattern useful. I really love the jewel tones in this blanket and the way the stripes lined up. 

Did you make this pattern? Let me know on Instagram @strommercrafts! 

This post was all about how to make the Magic Mirror Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern.

Crochet Baby Blanket Mandala Yarn

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Crochet Witch Hat
Patterns

Crochet Witch Hat Pattern

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Hello everyone, today I have a crochet witch hat pattern for you! A few years ago I had my oldest daughter dress as a cute little witch for Halloween, but the one essential piece I needed was a witch hat. 

I thought, heck, I could make one of those, BUT I could not find a pattern for a toddler that I really liked. So I made my own instead!

This post is all about how to crochet a witch hat with step by step instructions and pictures.

Crochet Witch Hat

Can you make this hat different sizes?

Yes! The witch hat pattern I have written below fits my 4 year old perfectly and my 2.5 year old (a little big). If you’re needing a smaller or bigger size, you can stop early or add more rows. The formula for making the cone shape is increasing, doing a row of single crochets, doing another row of increases, then another row of single crochets and so on until you reach the desired size.

If you alter the size, keep in mind that you’ll have to adjust the crochet band and possibly the bow. You may need to decrease or add the amount of brim too. 

I suggest using a measuring tape to obtain accurate head measurements and then crocheting until you meet those measurements. Here is a head measurement guide that has average head circumferences by age if you need help.

What is the best yarn to use for this pattern?

I use acrylic yarn from Red Heart Super Saver. Acrylic yarn is perfect for keeping the witch hat and brim stiff. I think that if you use a softer yarn, your hat would most likely slouch and be floppier.

Do I have to crochet the band and bow?

Nope! Honestly, it would be easier to buy a ribbon and tie a pretty bow around the hat. If you’re like me, I didn’t have any ribbon, nor did I feel like buying any…so I used orange yarn from my stash instead. 

Traditional Crochet Witch Hat
Here's my 2.5 year old wearing the hat! Isn't she cute?
Crochet Witch Hat Free Pattern
And this is how it fits on my 4 year old! She was being such a goober in this pic.

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

Please note that these are in US terms, not UK.

Helpful Tips:

  • The number in parenthesis at the end of the rows indicates the number of stitches you should have.
  • The hat is made in a continuous row, meaning that we will not be slip stitching and chaining to get to the next row height. This is where you will need a stitch marker to help you determine the beginning and end of your rounds. You can use a scrap piece of yarn or a paperclip if you don’t have stitch markers on hand.
  • The first round of the brim is made by crocheting in the front loops. If you look at the top your stitches, you’ll notice it looks like a little V, insert your hook into the part of the V that is closest to you. That is the front loop.
  • Sew the bow directly onto the band (not into the hat), this helps prevent a bunch of uncomfortable yarn pushing against your head.

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Crochet Witch Hat Pattern

  • Row 1: make a mc, ch 1 (does not count as st), 5 hdc in mc (5 sts)
  • Row 2: 1 hdc in each st around (5 sts)
  • Row 3: 2 hdc in each st around (10 sts)
  • Row 4: 1 hdc in each st around (10 sts)
  • Row 5: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st (15 sts)
  • Row 6: 1 hdc in each st around (15 sts)
  • Row 7: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
  • Row 8: 1 hdc in each around (20 sts)
  • Row 9: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts (25 sts)
  • Row 10: 1 hdc in each st around (25 sts)
  • Row 11: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts (30 sts)
  • Row 12: 1 hdc in each st around (30 sts)
  • Row 13: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts (35 sts)
  • Row 14: 1 hdc in each st around (35 sts)
  • Row 15: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts (40 sts)
  • Row 16: 1 hdc in each st around (40 sts)
  • Row 17: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts (45 sts)
  • Row 18: 1 hdc in each st around (45 sts)
  • Row 19: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts (50 sts)
  • Row 20: 1 hdc in each st around (50 sts)
  • Row 21: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 9 sts (55 sts)
  • Row 22: 1 hdc in each st around (55 sts)
  • Row 23: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 10 sts (60 sts)
  • Row 24: 1 hdc in each st around (60 sts)
  • Row 25: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 11 sts (65 sts)
  • Row 26: 1 hdc in each st around (65 sts)
  • Row 27: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 12 sts (70 sts)
  • Row 28: 1 hdc in each st around (70 sts)
  • Row 29: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 13 sts (75 sts)
  • Row 30: 1 hdc in each st around (75 sts)
  • Row 31: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 14 sts (80 sts)
  • Row 32: 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (80 sts)

If you need to make your size larger, continue in this fashion until you reach your desired size For smaller sizes, stop at whatever row you feel is appropriate. 

crochet witch hat base
You should now have something that looks like a large cone shape.

Crochet Witch Hat Brim

  • Row 33: ch 1, (in front loop) 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (90 sts)
  • Row 34: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (100 sts) 
  • Row 35: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (110 sts)
  • Row 36: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (120 sts) 
  • Row 37: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (130 sts)
  • Row 38: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (140 sts)
  • Row 39: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (150 sts)

Keep increasing in this fashion if you need a longer brim or stop earlier for a shorter brim.

Cut yarn with scissors. Weave in end with tapestry needle.

Witch Hat Crochet Brim

Orange Bow (optional)

We will be making the bow in three different parts and sewing them together later. 

You don’t have to make the bow or the band, but I think they give the witch hat a nice finishing touch, especially if you’re making this for a little girl.

Center Part:

This is easily adjustable by reducing or increasing the amount of starting chains.

  • Row 1: ch 31, without twisting, sl st to first st to create a loop (30 sts)
  • Row 2-7: turn, ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to first st (30 sts)

Leave a long tail, cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Take the tail and wrap it around the middle of the bow. Weave in the end back into the middle part to secure it.

Bow round 1
Bow Center Part Row 1
Row 2
Bow Center Part Row 2
Sew like this
Wrap tail around and sew into the middle part

Bow “Tails”:

This is adjustable by chaining less or more, and then placing increases in the beginning and end stitches of each row.

  • Row 1: ch 12, sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch across (11 sts)
  • Row 2: turn, ch 1 (does not count as a st this row and following rows), 2 sc in first st, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in last st (13 sts)
  • Row 3: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in last st (15 sts)
  • Row 4: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in last st (17 sts)
  • Row 5: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in last st (19 sts)
  • Row 6: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 17 sts, 2 sc in last st (21 sts)

Leave a long tail, cut yarn with scissors and pull through. 

Weave in the tail back through the last row’s stitches until the 10th stitch. Wrap your tail around the middle of the “tails.” Hold the tails open firmly with one hand so the side that we weaved the tail in doesn’t curl on you. 

Weave in the end back into the middle part to secure it.

Row 1-6
Bow Tails Row 1-6
Crochet Bow Tails

Bow Middle Section:

This part is made to hide the yarn that we wrapped around the center and tails. 

Adjust length by chaining more chains in the beginning.

  • Row 1:  ch 14, turn, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (13 sts)

Leave a long tail, cut yarn with scissors and pull through.

Crochet Bow Center Part
Bow Middle Section Row 1

Bow Assembly:

Sew together all three parts by placing the middle section over the center and tail pieces. Make sure the tail piece is sew with the shorter side on top. 

This part can be a little difficult as you are trying to keep all the pieces together, but don’t sweat it! I ended up having to overlap the middle section to get the tightness I wanted.

Bow Assembly
witch hat pattern bow

Orange Band around Witch Hat:

Adjust size by decreasing or increasing the amount of rows. You want to make sure the band will fit around the hat nicely without it being too short or too long.

  • Row 1: ch 5, insert hook into second ch from hook, sc in each st across (4 sts)
  • Row 2: turn, ch 1, (does not count as a stitch), sc in each st across (4 sts)
  • Row 3-84: Repeat row 2

My band length is approximately 23.5 inches.

Fold the band together without twisting. Insert hook into both sts and sl st across to sew together.

Hat Band
Hat Band Sewn Together
Fold together and sl st
crochet hat witch band

Bow and Band Assembly

After you’ve sewed the bow pieces together, sew the bow directly onto where you joined the band together. 

Now place the band with the bow onto the hat. Cut a very long piece of orange yarn, attach to the back side of the band and sew the band across the hat. Try to sew in the same row of stitches on the hat to give the band a nice, even look. 

Sew yarn securely. Cut any excess yarn off with scissors.

Bow and Band Assembly
crochet witch hat free pattern

Your crochet witch hat is complete! I hope you found this pattern helpful, if you have any questions feel free to leave a comment below. Thank you and have a Happy Halloween!

Did you make this pattern? Tag me on instagram @strommercrafts.

This post was all about how to crochet a witch hat!