Peaches and Creme Yarn: Beautiful Crochet Dishcloth Pattern (Free)

***This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you click on a link and make a purchase, I may make a commission at no extra cost to you***

Hello everyone! Today I thought I would share my next crochet project with you; dishcloths! But it’s not just any dishcloth, it’s a dishcloth that has a beautiful texture with beautiful yarn! The yarn that I’ve used for this pattern is called Peaches and Creme Ombre – Oasis. 

This is a cotton yarn which is great for practical crochet projects like dishcloths. It’s softer and much more durable than acrylic. Plus it just feels so much nicer to hold and feel.

I really am quite happy with the way that the yarn looks in this pattern too. Sometimes with the speckled or striped yarns, it’s difficult to tell how it’ll look with your project. The little chocolate and brownish-red flecks break up that main beige color in such a way that’s pleasing to the eye.

The texture created is really simple too. It’s a combination of a single crochet and two double crochets in the same stitch, then skipping two stitches. The stitches lay in such a way that it makes a subtle “bulge” in the project, creating a beautiful, squishy texture.

When finished, the dishcloth measures about 7″ x 7″ (give or take depending on your gauge). 

Here’s a close up of the texture with the Peaches and Creme Oasis yarn:

Close up of textured dishcloth in peaches and creme oasis cotton yarn

Pretty isn’t it? 

As always, you can use any type of yarn you like for this project, and it doesn’t have to be a dishcloth. You can make a blanket or a scarf or a burp cloth for example. Just make sure your yarn is a medium 4 weight yarn or else it might come out too big or small!

If you like this pattern, you might also want to check out my Easy Textured Burp Cloth pattern (which has another beautiful, squishy texture to it).

Materials Used:

  • 5 mm crochet hook
  • 1 little skein (2oz) of Peaches and Creme Cotton Yarn – Oasis 
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations Used:

Please note that I am using US crochet terms and not UK crochet terms for this pattern.

  • ch(s) – chain(s)
  • sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Special Considerations:

  • If you need to adjust the size of your project, chain a multiple of 13 + 1.
  • The turning chain does not count as a stitch.

Textured Crochet Dishcloth Pattern:

  • Ch 26
  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, make *(1 sc, 2 dc) in the same ch, skip 2 chs.* Repeat from *to* until you reach the last 3 chs. Make 1 sc in last ch. Turn (25 sts)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, (turning ch does not count as a st) make *(1 sc, 2 dc) in the next st, skip next 2 sts.* Repeat from *to* until you reach the last 3 sts, 1 sc in last st. Turn (25 sts)
  • Row: 3-18 (or until desired height): Repeat Row 2
Ch 26 for Peaches and Creme Dishcloth
Ch 26
Beginning of Row 2 for Textured Dishcloth
Beginning of Row 2
End of Row 2 for textured dishcloth pattern
End of Row 2
Textured Dishcloth using Peaches and Creme Oasis Cotton Yarn
Completed Peaches and Creme Dishcloth with border!

You can sc a border around the dishcloth if you’d like, but it is totally optional. Otherwise cut your yarn, pull through, and weave in end with tapestry needle.

Border: sc in each st across until the last st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner st. Crocheting down the side of a project can be challenging, since we are making a square, try to make the side as even as the top/bottom (so 25 sts). Continue making (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner sts and sc across until the last st. Sl st to last stitch, Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end with tapestry needle. 

As always, thank you for reading this post and happy crocheting! Until next time!

Free Dark Souls Crochet Pillow – You Died Accent Pillow

***This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you make a purchase through these links. As a Yarnspirations affiliate, I earn through qualifying purchases.***

Hello everyone! Today I bring you a Dark Souls inspired crochet accent pillow! If you’ve ever played a game in the Dark Souls series…you’re probably familiar with this phrase; YOU DIED. 

My husband enjoys playing this game in his spare time. I played Dark Souls 2 when it first came out, and I was horrible at it to say the least. I really didn’t know what I was getting myself into, and I though it was just like any other RPG at the time. Boy was I wrong!

Despite the difficulty of it, it’s a beautiful game. It’s been five years since the release of Dark Souls 3 and we both decided to revisit it in 2021. 

It’s still amazing. The atmosphere. The music. The game play. 

So I was inspired by the game to graph out the infamous in-game notification: You Died. 

It was fairly easy, just a little time consuming. It took me about a week to totally finish this project, but that was between work and kids, so you’ll probably finish it quicker than I did!  

I also have a chart that you can reference to if you’re more of a visual learner. I created this graph through Stitch Fiddle, which is absolutely amazing for making tapestries via crochet (plus it’s totally free!)

Each block represents 1 single crochet stitch. When crocheting off of a graph, start from the left or right (doesn’t matter) and then continue back when you reach the end of the row. That is, if you start from left to right on the graph, work right to left after you turn your work.

I would also recommend to print this post out and mark off the instructions as you go. This can help prevent you from losing your spot.

You Died Dark Souls Graph

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • ch – chain
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • CTB – change to black
  • CTR – change to red

Special Instructions:

We’ll be making two sides and then sewing them together to make the accent pillow.

You’ll also need to be comfortable with changing colors on your hook. Do this by attaching the new color in the stitch BEFORE the needed color change.

So in the stitch BEFORE the color change, single crochet as normal, but do not complete it. Leave two loops on your hook, attach the new color and then finish the stitch.

This takes a bit of practice at first, but it really isn’t too bad once you get the swing of it. 

You can also carry the other color yarn with you as you crochet. Or you can cut and tie it off. 

I carried my yarn with me (you can tell by the red yarn somewhat poking through in the picture). If you don’t like how that looks, I would cut and tie it off.  One thing I don’t like about that method, is that it takes a REALLY LONG time to do. However, since we’ll be making a front and a back side to the pillow, the tied off ends will be hidden inside. So that’s a bonus. 

You Died Accent Pillow Pattern:

1 of 2 Sides:

With black yarn and 4 mm crochet hook

  • Ch 101
  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, single crochet in each ch across, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 2-14: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (100)
  • Row 15: (starting from left to right on graph) Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 6 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 4 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 5 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 8 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 5 sts, CTB, sc in next st, CTR, sc in next 10 sts, CTB, sc in next 2 sts, CTR, sc in next 8 sts, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 16: Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 2 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 17: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 18: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB. sc in next 11 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 19: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 20: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, turn, (100 sts)
  • Row 21: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB sc in next 7 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 22: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 10 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 23: Ch 1, sc in next 10 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 10 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 7 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 24: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next st, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 10 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 25: Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 2 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 26: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 27: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 11 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 28: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 29: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 8 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB,sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next st, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 9 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 30: Ch 1, sc in next 10 sts, CTR, sc in next 8 sts, CTB, sc in next 3 sts, CTR, sc in next 10 sts, CTB, sc in next st, CTR, sc in next 5 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 8 sts, CTB, sc in next 7 sts, CTR, sc in next 3 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 5 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 6 sts, CTB, sc in next 4 sts, CTR, sc in next 2 sts, CTB, sc in next 5 sts, CTR, sc in next 4 sts, CTB, sc in next 6 sts, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 31-46: Ch 1, sc in each st across,

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

Now we will make the back side of the pillow. This part is much easier!

Dark Souls Pillow!

2 of 2 Sides:

With 4mm crochet hook and black yarn

Ch 101

  • Row 1: From second ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn (100 sts)
  • Row 2-46: Ch 1, sc in each st across (100 sts)

Don’t cut your yarn yet.

We’ll be sewing both sides together using the crochet hook and attached yarn.

 

Assembly:

Line up both sides of the pillow together evenly. Insert your crochet hook through both sides of the pillow and slip stitch in both stitches across.

Before slip stitching the 3rd side of the pillow, start stuffing firmly with poly-fil and continue stuffing as you go.

Slip stitch in the last stitches, cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end with tapestry needle (or tie off). Cut off any excess yarn.

Thank you for trying out this pattern! I hope you like this Dark Souls accent pillow!

As always, happy crocheting!

Duck Bucket Hat – Free Crochet Pattern

Hello everyone, I wanted to share with you my latest creation; a crochet duck bucket hat! Now that it’s getting warmer, I’ve been in the mood to make less wintery hats and focus more on summer time crochet patterns.

I was inspired to create this little guy after I finished my Frog Bucket Hat. I think both turned out super cute!

The Duck Bucket Hat (pictured above) is toddler size, however I do have different sizes included. If you need help determining your hat size, I have a size chart here.

I have estimated sizes underneath each hat size. Please note that these may be a little bigger or smaller depending on your tension. 

As always, you can use any yarn type (this is acrylic), as long as it’s worsted medium weight #4. If you use different yarn weights and hook sizes, your hat might come out too big or small!

I use a magic circle to start the duck bucket hat, but you can use a chain 2 and start your hat in the second chain from your hook if you prefer. If you need help with starting a magic circle, see my previous post here.

The brim of a bucket hat is created by working in the front loop of the next stitch. If you look at the top of your stitch, you can see that there are two little “bars” next to each other. The “bar” that is closest to you is the front one. 

Crocheting in the front loop makes your stitches go out instead of down! Very useful for making brims on hats.

Please also note that on this page, instructions for the different size hats is displayed first and the facial features are at the bottom of this page. I use the same size eyes, beak and hair tufts for all the sizes, however feel free to adjust and make bigger or small by taking away or adding stitches.

Alright, let’s get to the pattern!

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for supporting Strommer Crafts!

Materials Used:

Abbreviations Used:

  • Mc – magic circle
  • Ch – chain
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st -slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Special Considerations:

  • The beginning chain does not count as a stitch in the bucket hat.
  • Every round starts in the same stitch as the beginning chain in the bucket hat.
  • Slip stitch to the first stitch of the round to join (not the beginning chain) in the bucket hat.
  • Repeat instructions between *and* when indicated.
  • You will see (x) at the end of the instructions for each round/row. X indicates how many stitches you should have when finished with that round/row.
  • Use pins to keep the eyes, beak and hair tufts in placed while sewing (this step is not totally necessary, just a preference).

Crochet Duck Bucket Hat Pattern

Newborn Size:

Hat circumference: 13″ | Hat length: 5″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around sl st into first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around sl st into first st (45 sts)
  • Round 7-13: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st into first st (45 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 14: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (68 sts)
  • Round 15-16 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (68 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

0-3 Months:

Hat circumference: 14″ | Hat length: 5.25″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7-14: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
Hat Brim: 
  • Round 15: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 16-17 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (72 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

3-6 Months: 

Hat circumference: 15″ | Hat length: 5.75″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 11 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (52 sts)
  • Round 8-15: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (52 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 16: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (78 sts)
  • Round 17-18 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (78 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

6-12 Months:

Hat circumference: 16″ | Hat length: 6.25″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5 mm hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8-16: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
Hat Brim: 
  • Round 17: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (84 sts)
  • Round 18-19 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (84 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Toddler (1-3 Years):

Hat circumference: 17″ | Hat length: 7″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 13 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (60 sts)
  • Round 9-18: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (60 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 19: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (90 sts)
  • Round 20-23 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (90 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Child (4-10 years):

Hat circumference: 18″ | Hat length: 7.5″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9-20: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 21: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (96 sts)
  • Round 22-25 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (96 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Teen/Adult Small

Hat circumference: 19.5″ | Hat length: 7.75″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 15 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (68 sts)
  • Round 10-21: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (68 sts)
Hat Brim:
  • Round 22: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (102 sts)
  • Round 23-26 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (102 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Adult Medium:

Hat circumference: 20.5″ | Hat length: 8″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 10-21: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
Hat Brim: 
  • Round 22: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (108  sts)
  • Round 23-26 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (108 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Adult Large:

Hat circumference: 21.75″ | Hat length: 8.25″

With Bright Yellow yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 17 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (76 sts)
  • Round 11-22Ch 1, hdc in each st around (76 sts)
Hat Brim: 
  • Round 23: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (114 sts)
  • Round 24-27 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (114 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye, beak, and hair tuft instructions***

Eye, Beak, and Hair Tuft:

Use a 4 mm crochet hook for eyes, beak, and tufts.

Again, these are for all hat sizes. Feel free to adjust size if desired by adding or subtracting stitches/rows or by sizing up/down a hook size.

Eyes (make 2):

With Black yarn and 4 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 5 dc in magic circle (5) 
  • Round 2: Use stitch marker to mark the next stitch. Do not sl st to the next st, continue crocheting in the round. Make 2 sc in each st around. Sl st to first st (10 sts)

Cut a long length of yarn for sewing later with your scissors, and pull through.

Beak:

Note that I am not counting the turning chain as a stitch.

With Pumpkin yarn and 4 mm crochet hook:

  • Row 1: Ch 2, make 1 sc in second ch from hook (1 sc)
  • Row 2: Ch 2, turn, make 2 dc in the previous sc you made (2 sts)
  • Row 3: Ch 2, turn, make 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, and 2 dc in the top of the turning chain from the previous row (5 sts)
  • Row 4: Ch 2, turn, make 2 dc in next st, make 1 dc in the next 3 sts, make 2 dc in last st (not the turning chain this time) (7 sts)
  • Row 5: Ch 2, turn, make 2 dc in the next st, make 1 dc in next 5 sts, and make 2 dc in last st (9 sts)

Cut a long length of yarn for sewing later with your scissors, and pull through.

Beginning of beak
Row 1
Row 2 of beak
Row 2
Row 3 of beak
Row 3
Row 4 of beak
Row 4
Row 5 of beak
Row 5
Hair Tufts (make 6):

With Bright Yellow yarn and 4 mm crochet hook:

Row 1: Ch 10, from 3rd ch from hook, make 1 dc, make 1 hdc in next 2 chs, make 1 sc in next 2 chs, and make 1 sl st in next 3 chs (8 sts)

Cut a long length of yarn for sewing later with your scissors and pull through.

Row 1 hair
Ch 10
Row 1
Dc, hdc x2, sc x2, sl st x3

Assembly:

You will need to sew two pieces of the hair tufts together, that way you have a total of three “bulkier” pieces.

Line two tufts up and sew together with tapestry needle. Whip stitch, or use whichever sewing method you prefer. Do not cut off any excess yarn yet.

Line one tuft up on the top of the hat by placing one directly in the middle (there should be a larger hole there). Sew in place with tapestry needle. I like to tie the yarn ends together and cut of any excess, that way my assembled pieces are more secure.

Sew the next two tufts on each side of the middle tuft to create three cute little tufts coming from the top of the hat together. See pic below for reference.

Line the beak in the middle of the hat and sew in place. I think the beak looked better by lining the tip of the beak on the very last round prior to the brim. Feel free to use pins to keep the beak from moving around on you. Tie and cut off any excess.

Sew both eyes almost right on the two corners of the beak. Sew closer than you think you need to. If you sew them too far away from the beak, it tends to look a little wonky when the hat is worn. Wearing the hat will stretch the eyes away from each other a bit and the facial features might look a little silly.

Duck Bucket Hat

And there you have it! I hope you found this crochet duck bucket hat pattern fun and useful. 

This post was all about how to make a crochet duck bucket hat! 

Thank you and happy crocheting!

Easy Textured Burp Cloth – Free Crochet Pattern

***Check out the listing for these burp cloths on my Etsy shop here!***

These textured baby burp cloths are so beautiful and easy to make! I have been thinking of ways to add a little more texture to my crochet projects and this stitch is not only simple, but relaxing to make.

So what is this amazingly textured stitch?

It’s called the Wattle Stitch!

It creates a beautiful texture that’s not totally busy or crazy, which is perfect for those baby crochet projects. It also has a minimalist/modern feel to it, which I absolutely love.

I like to think of the wattle stitch as a wonky V stitch. It’s just a single crochet, chain one, and double crochet in the same space throughout the pattern. Easy Peasy! 

I would say the ONLY difficult thing about this pattern, is if you have a hard time finding turning chains. You’ll have to make a single crochet in it to complete rows 3 and beyond. If you’re a new crocheter and can’t tell what is what (I remember those days!), you can use a stitch marker or a scrap piece of yarn after you make it to find it. 

The yarn used for these burp cloths is the ‘Feels like Butta’ from Lion Brand, and to be honest, I think this my new favorite yarn. It’s polyester, but it’s incredibly soft. The name is totally makes sense, I mean, it really does feel like butter! 

With the ‘Feels like Butta’ yarn and the combined wattle stitch, it gives the burp cloth a nice, squishy kind of feel. It’s soft and that texture is great for wiping away those little spit up messes babies tend to make. 

Of course, not ALL babies are super spitty (is that a word?), but they sure are nice to have around just in case!

Close up of wattle stitch

Just look at that gorgeous texture! Beautiful, right?

It’s so funny, I never thought I’d ever be geeking out about yarn and the ways you can make it look so cool, but here I am haha.

I used the Pale Grey and the Charcoal colored yarn for the burp cloths. I think I’m drawn more to neutral and natural colored yarns for my “serious” projects. Maybe I’m just boring, but it just looks so much cleaner and nicer to my eyes. Plus I really like that minimalist aesthetic that’s popular right now, and I think these two colors reflect it pretty well.

The finished burp cloths are about 7.5 inches x 18.5 inches. The final length will depend on how tight or loose your tension is, but feel free to add length and rows as needed.

Okay, enough talking, let’s get cracking and make that baby something to barf on!

Crochet burp cloth laid flat

Materials:

  • 3.75 mm crochet hook
  • 1 skein of 4 medium weight yarn (Lion Brand’s Feels like Butta Yarn in Pale Grey or Charcoal)
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry Needle

 Abbreviations Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet

Textured Burp Cloth Pattern:

  • Row 1: Ch 93 or a multiple of 3
  • Row 2: From the 3rd ch from your hook make (1 sc, ch 1, and 1 dc) all in the same ch. Skip 2 chs and make (1 sc, ch 1, and 1 dc) in next ch. Repeat all the way to the end of the ch. Turn and ch 1. 
  • Row 3: Find the first ch 1 space from the previous row (it should be a nice little hole). Make ( 1 sc, ch 1, and 1 dc) in that space. Continue making 1 sc, ch 1, and 1 dc in each ch 1 space. At the end of the row, make a sc in the turning ch . Turn and ch 1.
  • Row 4-26: Repeat row 3
Crochet Burp cloth tied with ribbon

And that’s it! 

The stitches put together are simple, but they make such a wonderfully textured burp cloth perfect for your little one (or someone else’s!) 

I think these would make a nice baby shower or meet the baby gift (plus if it’s handmade, it’s even more special, right?). Fold them up Marie-Kondo style and tie a pretty bow around them!

Thank you for reading and happy crocheting!

Crochet Umbreon Hat – Free Crochet Pattern

Pinterest pin of Umbreon crochet hat

Hey everyone! I decided to whip up another Pokémon themed crochet hat based off of my favorite dark type, Umbreon! 

I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn to complete this project, but feel free to use a brand of your choice as long as it’s a medium worsted weight yarn (#4). 

The hat pictured above is sized for a teen/small adult (about a 20 inch head circumference and the hat is about 7.75-8 inches tall). If you’re  familiar with crocheting hats, you can adjust the size and length of the hat as needed. I have a hat chart here if you need a reference to adjust your hat size accordingly.

The ears are roughly 7 inches tall and about 6.75 inches in circumference, but yours might be slightly bigger or smaller, it just depends on how tight or loose you like to crochet and how firmly you stuff the ear.

Materials Needed:

  • 5mm crochet hook
  • 4mm crochet hook
  • 1 skein of medium worsted weight Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in Black
  • <1 skein of medium worsted weight Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in Bright Yellow
  • Poly-Fil
  • Stitch marker
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry needle

Abbreviations Used:

  • Sc – single crochet
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Ch – chain
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
  • Mc – magic circle
  • * – repeat instructions between *and* 

Special Instructions:

Hat

For the hat, I use the magic circle to start, but you can chain 2 and start in the second chain from your hook to create the hat. Totally your choice. I find that the magic circle makes the hole at the top of your hat a little less big

The chain 1 does not count as a stitch. Start your first hdc in the same stitch as the chain 1.

Ears

Continue to work in the round when you reach the end. Do not slip stitch and chain 1. This is where your stitch marker comes in handy to mark the beginning of your rounds.

Hat:

Hat circumference: 20 inches. Hat height : 7.75-8 inches

With black yarn and 5mm hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat aroun, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next 15 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (68 sts)
  • Round 10-21: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around (68 sts). Adjust number of rounds if needed.

Cut and pull through. Weave in end with tapestry needle.

Ears (make 2):

With 4 mm hook and black yarn:

  • Round 1: 4 sc in mc (4 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (8 sts)
  • Round 3-4: Sc in each st around (8 sts)
  • Round 5: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (12 sts)
  • Round 6: Sc in each st around (12 sts)
  • Round 7: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts* repeat around (16 sts)
  • Round 8: Sc in each st around (16 sts)
  • Round 9: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts* repeat around (20 sts)
  • Round 10: Sc in each st around (20 sts)
  • Round 11: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts* repeat around (24 sts)
  • Round 12-13: Sc in each st around (24 sts)
  • Sl st to next st, cut and pull yarn through. With Bright Yellow yarn, make a standing sc in the sl st just made. You can carry the cut yarn with you or hide it on the inside of the ear.
  • Round 14-17: Sc in each st around (24 sts)
  • Sl st to next st, cut and pull through yarn. With black yarn, make a standing sc in the sl st just made.
  • Round 18-20: Sc in each st around (24 sts)
  • Round 21: *Sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts* repeat around (20 sts)
  • Round 22: Sc in each st around (20 sts)
  • Round 23: *Sc2tog, 1 sc in next 3 sts* repeat around (16 sts)
  • Start stuffing ear firmly with poly-fil, continue as you go.
  • Round 24: Sc in each st around (16 sts)
  • Round 25: *Sc2tog, 1sc in next 2 sts (12 sts)
  • Round 26: Sc in each st around (16 sts)
  • Round 27: *Sc2tog, sc in next st* repeat around (12 sts)

Cut and pull through a long piece of yarn for sewing.

Head Ring: 

With 4mm hook and Bright Yellow yarn:

  • Round 1: Ch 26, sl st to first ch. Make sure not to twist the ch as you connect it. 
  • Round 2: Ch 1, 3 sc in first ch, 1 sc in next 11 ch sts, 3 Sc in next ch, sc in next 11 ch sts, sl st to first st (28 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, Sc in same st as ch 1, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts, 3 Sc in next st, 13 Sc in next 13 sts, sl st to first st  (30 sts)

Cut long piece of yarn for sewing and pull through.You should have something that resembles an oval or ring at this point. 

 

Assembly:

Start by sewing the Umbreon’s ears to the hat.  From the top center of the hat, count 5 rounds or holes to the left and attach ear. Do the same for the right side. I like to tie off my yarn on the inside before I cut any excess off, that way they stay a little more secure.  

Line Umbreon’s head ring in the lower middle area of the hat and sew with tapestry needle as shown in picture above. 

And there it is! Your super cool, dark Umbreon hat is complete! 

Thank you for checking out this pattern and have a great day!

Frog Bucket Hat – Free Crochet Pattern

Frog Bucket Hat crochet pattern for newborn

Celebrate spring time with this cute, frog bucket hat! This pattern is for a newborn size (13-14 inch circumference). I might go back and update this post for larger sizes, but I’ve been so busy lately with work and family! I’m sure everyone can relate lol!

Edit: I’ve updated this post to include more sizes! This includes Newborn to Adult Large sizes. Enjoy 🙂

The hat itself works up fairly quickly, however the eyes are created by using a magic circle (magic ring), which takes some practice to master. I would say because of the eyes, this would be an intermediate level crochet project.

This would also be a great gift idea for someone who is having a baby in the spring! I really like the pastel spring colors, so this green color was absolutely perfect.

I actually made the frog bucket hat from some mystery yarn I had in my stash. Unfortunately the label was missing, so I’m unsure exactly what brand and color. However, it looks like Red Heart has a yarn called Classic Lime that looks fairly close!

If you like this hat, check out the crochet frog stuffy I made to go along with it! It’s a super quick, frog toy that you can get done in less than an afternoon. Perfect to give to the grandkids!

***This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you make a purchase through these links. As a Skimlinks affiliate, I earn through qualifying purchases.**

Materials Needed:

Abbreviations Used:

  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • St – stitch
    Sc – single crochet
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Sc2tog – single crochet two together (this is how we decrease the stitch count)
  • Mc – magic circle (see this previous post on how to create one)
  • Ch – chain

Special considerations:

  • The number in parenthesis at the end of a round is how many stitches you should have.
  • When reading the pattern, repeat *to* when prompted.
  • When making the eyes, continue working in the round, this means that instead of joining your round with a slip stitch and chaining one, you continue single crocheting. This is why a stitch marker is handy to mark the beginning of your rounds so you don’t lose count of your stitches!
  • The brim of the hat is created by crocheting in the front loops of the next stitch.

Frog Bucket Hat Pattern

Newborn Size:

Hat circumference: 13″ | Hat length: 5″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around sl st into first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around sl st into first st (45 sts)
  • Round 7-13: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st into first st (45 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 14: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (68 sts)
  • Round 15-16 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (68 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

0-3 Months:

Hat circumference: 14″ | Hat length: 5.25″

With Spring Green yarn and 5 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7-14: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (48 sts)

Hat Brim: 

  • Round 15: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 16-17 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (72 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

3-6 Months: 

Hat circumference: 15″ | Hat length: 5.75″

With Spring Green yarn and 5 mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 11 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (52 sts)
  • Round 8-15: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (52 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 16: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, Sl st to first st (78 sts)
  • Round 17-18 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (78 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

6-12 Month:

Hat circumference: 16″ | Hat length: 6.25″

With Spring Green yarn and 5 mm hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8-16: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (56 sts)

Hat Brim: 

  • Round 17: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (84 sts)
  • Round 18-19 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (84 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Toddler (1-3 Years):

Hat circumference: 17″ | Hat length: 7″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 13 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (60 sts)
  • Round 9-18: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (60 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 19: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (90 sts)
  • Round 20-23 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (90 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Child (4-10 years):

Hat circumference: 18″ | Hat length: 7.5″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9-20: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (64 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 21: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (96 sts)
  • Round 22-25 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (96 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Teen/Adult Small

Hat circumference: 19.5″ | Hat length: 7.75″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 15 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (68 sts)
  • Round 10-21: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (68 sts)

Hat Brim:

  • Round 22: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (102 sts)
  • Round 23-26 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (102 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Adult Medium:

Hat circumference: 20.5″ | Hat length: 8″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 10-21: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (72 sts)

Hat Brim: 

  • Round 22: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (108  sts)
  • Round 23-26 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (108 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Adult Large:

Hat circumference: 21.75″ | Hat length: 8.25″

With Spring Green yarn and 5mm crochet hook:

  • Round 1: Make 8 hdc in mc, sl st to first st (8 sts)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next stitch* repeat around, sl st to first st (16 sts)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (24 sts)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (32 sts)
  • Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (40 sts)
  • Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (48 sts)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (56 sts)
  • Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (64 sts)
  • Round 9: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (72 sts)
  • Round 10: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 17 sts* repeat around, sl st to first st (76 sts)
  • Round 11-22Ch 1, hdc in each st around (76 sts)

Hat Brim: 

  • Round 23: Ch 1, *2 hdc in front loop of next st, 1 hdc in front loop of next st* repeat around, sl st to first st (114 sts)
  • Round 24-27 (or until desired length): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (114 sts)

Cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Weave in end using your tapestry needle.

***See at the end of page for eye instructions***

Frog Eyes: 

With Spring Green Yarn and 4mm crochet hook:

Newborn-6-12 Month Size
Green part (make 2)
  • Round 1: 8 sc in mc (continue to work in the round, do not sl st, use the stitch marker to mark the beginning of the next round) (8 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (16 sts)
  • Round 3: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (24 sts)
  • Round 4-6: 1 sc in each st around (24 sts)
  • ‘Round 7: *1 sc in next st, sc2tog in next* repeat around (16 sts)
  • Round 8: start stuffing the eye with poly-fil lightly. Sc2tog around (8 sts)

Pull yarn through and cut a length of yarn long enough for sewing. Do not sew the bottom of the eye totally shut.

Round 1 of Frog Hat Eyes
Round 1
Round 2 of Frog Hat Eyes
Round 2
Round 3 of Frog Hat Eyes
Round 3
Whites of eyes (make 2)

With white yarn and 4mm hook:

  • Round 1: 4 sc in mc (4 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (8 sts)
  • Round 3: 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (16 sts)

Pull yarn through, cut enough yarn for sewing onto the green part of the eyes.

Toddler-Adult Large Size

With Spring Green yarn and 4mm hook:

Green Part (make 2)
  • Round 1: 8 sc in mc (continue to work in the round, do not sl st, use the stitch marker to mark the beginning of the next round) (8 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (16 sts)
  • Round 3: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (24 sts)
  • Round 4: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts* repeat around (26 sts)
  • Round 5-8: 1 sc in each st around (26 sts)
  • Round 9: *Sc2tog, 1 sc in next 11 sts* repeat around (24 sts)
  • Round 10: *Sc2tog, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (16 sts)
  • Round 11: start stuffing the eye with poly-fil lightly. Sc2tog around (8 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Leave a long tail for sewing. Do not sew the bottom of the eye totally shut.

Whites of eyes (make 2)

With white yarn and 4mm hook:

  • Round 1: 4 sc in mc (4 sts)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (8 sts)
  • Round 3: 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat around (16 sts)

Cut yarn and pull through. Leave a long enough tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Sew whites of the eyes onto the green part of the eyes. You can hide your yarn ends on the inside of the green part. 
With your safety eyes, screw them into the middle of the white of the eye. This part may be a little tricky with how thick the yarn is after sewing. 
With the frog eyes completed, we will sew them onto the bucket hat. 
Looking at the hat from the top down, sew the eyes about 4 stitches away from the center of the top. 
I didn’t use safety pins when sewing, but if you have difficulty keeping the eyes from moving around while sewing, they are super helpful!

And there it is! You’re all finished! Thank you for looking at my pattern for this frog bucket hat!

Happy spring and happy crocheting!

Cojiro the Blue Cucco Crochet Pattern – Free Pattern

Chibi Cojiro Crochet Pattern

Does anyone else remember this little guy from The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time? The rarest of all Cuccos? Cojiro was a side quest item from that video game, and if I remember correctly, it was somewhat obscure. I know when I played it as a kid I had to lookup a guide to complete it, but that’s just me!

Since it’s spring time here, I’ve been seeing little baby chicks all over social media and at the tractor supply store, so it got me to thinking about Cojiro from The Legend of Zelda and how cute it would be to try and crochet a chibi version of him.

I followed a pattern by Lauren from A Menagerie of Stitches for the body, which can be found here.  The pattern for her spring chicks is absolutely adorable and the use of color is amazing.

I did change the size of the wings and added Cojiro’s crest and beard.

This is truly a simple design, and you could finish it within an afternoon. When finished you can hold him in one hand. Depending on your tension, he’s about 4-5 inches tall and about 3-4 inches wide.

Materials Needed for Chibi Cojiro Crochet Pattern:
  • 1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver in Blue
  • <1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver in Yellow and Cherry Red
  • 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • 9mm safety eyes
  • Poly-fil
  • Scissors
  • Stitch Marker
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Pins (optional)
Abbreviations Used:
  • Mc – magic circle (see my previous post on making one here)
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc- double crochet
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Ch – chain
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sc2tog – single crochet two together
Body

With blue colored yarn.

Round 1: 6sc in mc (6sts). Use your stitch marker to mark the beginning of the next round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around(12 sts)

Round 3: Sc 1, 2 sc in next st around (18 sts)

Round 4Sc 2, 2 sc in next st around (24 sts)

Round 5: Sc 3, 2 sc in next st around (30 sts)

Round 6: Sc 4, 2 sc in next st around (36 sts)

Round 7: Sc in each st around (36 sts)

Round 8: Sc 5, 2 sc in each st around (42 sts)

Round 9-18: Sc in each st around (42 sts) 

I added the eyes around the 10th and 11th round, 6 stitches apart from each other.

Round 19: Sc 5, sc2tog around (36 sts)

Round 20: Sc 4, sc2tog around (30 sts)

Start stuffing with poly-fil firmly and continue to stuff as you go along.

Round 21: Sc 3, sc2tog around (24 sts)

Round 22: Sc 2, sc2tog around (18 sts)

Round 23: Sc 1, sc2tog around (12 sts)

Round 24: Sc2tog around (6 sts)

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Wings (make 2)

Round 1: 6 sc in mc (6sts)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc 1, 2 sc in next stitch around (18 sts)

Leave a long tail for sewing later, cut and pull through.

Beak

Using yellow yarn.

Round 1: Ch 3, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch. 

Leave a tail for sewing, cut and pull through.

Crest

Using red yarn.

Round 1: Ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from the hook, (sc, dc, sc) in one ch, sl st into next ch. Repeat until end of ch 7. 

Leave a tail for sewing, cut and pull through.

Beard

Round 1: 4 sc in mc

Round 2: 1 sc in next st, ch 2. 

Leave a tail for sewing, cut and pull through.

Assembly

Use your pins to help keep the beak, wings, crest and beard in place and straight when you sew, however this is not 100% necessary.

With the tapestry needle, sew the beak 1 round below the eyes. 

Sew the wings in the same round as the beak, 5 sts away from the edge of the beak. 

Sew the beard right below the beak.

Sew the crest on the top of his head, line the 2nd “hump” in the middle.

And there you have it! If you have any questions or problems with the pattern please don’t hesitate to contact me at strommercrafts@gmail.com.

Thank you and happy crocheting!

 

Top down view of chibi cojiro
Top down view of chibi cojiro

Crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Dishcloth Pattern

Hello everyone! Today I have a Crochet Legend of Zelda dishcloth pattern for you! These neutral colored dishcloths boast the iconic triforce symbol from the beloved video game.

If you’re like me and a fan of the Legend of Zelda series, you’ll love these crochet dishcloths. Not only will they show your love for the game, they’re a functional crochet item too. Talk about a win-win!

I attempted to crochet the triforce dishcloths with the classic green background and yellow triforce colors, however they seemed to bright and contrasting for this project. Instead I opted for neutral colors, and I love the way these turned out.

I am using a medium 4 worsted weight yarn for this pattern, but feel free to use any color or type of yarn as long as it’s the same weight.

These dishcloths measure about 7x7in when laid flat, which is a perfect size for crochet dishcloths.

Use this for yourself, or gift to a friend or family member who loves The Legend of Zelda Series too!

Related Posts:

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Used:

Terms Used:

Please note these are in US terms, not UK

  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Special Considerations:

When you need to make a color change in this pattern, it’s best to do it in the stitch BEFORE the stitch that needs the color change.

If you need help with color changing, see my post on How to Color Change in Crochet the Right Way.

To perform the color change, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch (you now have two loops on your hook). Instead of finishing your single crochet stitch like normal, put your new yarn color on your hook. Pull that color through the two loops. Tighten your stitch by pulling on the yarn ends.  

Alright let’s check out the pattern!

Crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Dishcloth Pattern:

To get this dishcloth colorway, see directions below.

Triforce dishcloth with aran base color and buff triforce color

With Aran

Row 1) Ch 28, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 26 chs (27 sts)

Row 2) Turn, ch 1, sc in next st (but don’t finish all the way, with two loops on hook, switchto Buff, then finish), sc in next 25 sts, on the 25th st, switch to Aran, sc in last st

Row 3) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, on second st switch to Buff, sc in next 12 sts, change to Aran, sc in next st, change back to Buff, sc in next 12 sts, change to Aran for next 2 sts

Row 4) Repeat row 3 

Row 5) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 9 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 3 sts, switch back to Buff, sc in next 9 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 3 sts

Row 6) Repeat row 5

Row 7) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 7 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 5 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 7 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 4 sts

Row 8) Repeat row 7

Row 9) Turn, ch1, sc in next 5 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 5 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 7 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 5 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 5 sts

Row 10) Repeat row 9

Row 11) Turn, ch 1 sc in next 6 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 3 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 9 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 3 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 6 sts

Row 12) Repeat row 11

Row 13) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next st, switch to Aran, sc in next 11 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next st, switch to Aran, sc in next 7 sts

Row 14) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 13 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 7 sts

Row 15) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 11 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 8 sts

Row 16) Repeat row 15

Row 17) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 9 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 9 sts

Row 18) Repeat row 17

Row 19) Turn, ch1, sc in next 10 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 7 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 10sts

Row 20) Repeat row 19

Row 21) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 5 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 11 sts

Row 22) Repeat row 21

Row 23) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 12 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next 3 sts, switch to Aran, sc in next 12 sts

Row 24) Repeat row 23

Row 25) Turn, ch 1, sc in next 13 sts, switch to Buff, sc in next st, switch to aran, sc in next 13 sts

Row 26) Repeat row 25

Row 27) Sc in each st across with Aran

Cut yarn with scissors, weave in ends with tapestry needle.

To obtain the second dishcloth, simply switch the colors with the above directions.

Crochet triforce dishcloth with buff base color and aran for triforce

I hope you enjoyed this crochet Legend of Zelda Triforce Dishcloth Pattern!

Until next time!

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How to Crochet Star Ornaments for your Christmas Tree

Three crochet christmas tree star ornaments in red, green, and tan

This is a post on how to crochet a Christmas tree ornament in a star shape. Keep scrolling to see the pattern!

Are you looking for a quick and easy way to decorate your Christmas tree this year? Or maybe you’re looking for a gift or stocking stuffer idea for the holidays? How about impressing your family or friends with your crochet skills?

If so, then this crochet Christmas tree ornament could be JUST the pattern you’re looking for! These little stars are so cute, yet so simple. Plus, your kids can’t break them if they decide to pluck them off the tree. So definitely a bonus in my book!

These work up so quickly and you can customize it by using any color and yarn you like. Try green, red, and white for traditional holiday colors. Or use neutral colored yarn, like brown and grey, to give your tree a rustic or farmhouse vibe! 

I’m fairly certain that my two year old was more excited than I was, when I finished a few of these. She hung them on her fingers while she ran around the house, saying, “my twinkle stars! My twinkle stars!” It was too cute, and I’m glad she got a kick out of them. 

Here’s the supplies you’ll need with the pattern listed below:

Supplies needed:

  • Appropriately sized crochet hook for your yarn (I used a 5mm and 4mm for my stars)
  • Yarn (I used Mainstays Green and Red Heart Super Saver in Burgundy and Aran)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors

Special Instructions:

You’ll need to know how to make a magic circle in order to start this pattern. If you’ve never made a magic circle, or need help, you can go to my step-by-step guide here

Terms Used:

  • mc – magic circle
  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • sl st – slip stitch

Pattern: 

Round 1) Make a magic circle. Ch 3, make 19 dc, sl st to top of ch 3. (20sts)

Round 2) *Sc in next st, skip a st, 3 dc in next st, ch3, 3 dc in same st, skip a st* Repeat from *to* around. Sl st into beginning sc. 

If you want to make your star bigger:

Round 3) Sl st into next 2 sts, ch 3, dc into next st, 3 dc in ch space, ch3, 3 dc in same space, dc in next 2 sts, skip the next 3 sts (should be a dc, sc, and dc).

*dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in ch space, ch3, 3 dc in same ch space, dc in next 2 sts, skip next 3 sts* Repeat *to* around. Sl st to top of starting ch 3

Round 4) Sl st into next st, ch 3, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in ch space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch space, dc in next 4 sts, skip 2 sts.

*dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in ch space, ch 3, 3 more dc in ch space, dc in next 4 sts, skip next 2 sts* Repeat *to* around. Sl st to top of starting ch 3.

By this point your star will be fairly large. However, if you wish to keep growing your star, you can repeat round 4 essentially, but the dcs will increase down the sides. 

Starting your next round you’ll: sl st into the next st, ch 3, dc until you get to the ch space, 3 dc in ch space, ch 3, and 3 more dc in ch space, dc down the side of the star and remember to skip 2 sts for the inside corner. 

Cut yarn and pull through. 

Repeat pattern so when you’re finished, you have two separate stars with the same amount of rounds. Do not cut your yarn when you finish the 2nd star.

Assembly

Line up both stars evenly (Make sure the correct sides are facing out). Insert your hook through the corresponding sts of each star, sl st into each and every st, even the ch 3 spaces. 

Make sure to continue slip stitching to “sew” the two stars together and end your slip stitches into one of the ch 3 spaces. Ch 6 and sl st into the same ch3 space to create a loop for hanging your ornament.

Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in yarn end.

Crochet star ornament in red
Crochet Christmas Tree star ornament in aran
Crochet Star Ornament in Green

And that’s all! You can make them as big or as small as you would like, and in any color or type of yarn. Try traditional Christmas colors like red, green, or white, or choose colors that fit your tree theme! 

Thanks for reading, happy crocheting and happy holidays!

How to Crochet a Beanie of Any Size

It’s super easy to crochet the perfectly sized beanie or hat! All you need is the measurement of the head circumference and you’re golden! 

Well, there’s a little more to it, but I promise, it’s not as bad as you might think. I’ll provide the formulas for you, so there’s little room for error.

If you’re not sure what the head circumference is of the person you’re crocheting your beanie for, I have an average of measurements listed below that you can use. 

Supplies you’ll need:

  • Your choice of yarn
  • Crochet hook 
  • Measuring tape
  • Tapestry needle to sew your ends
Crown
Height
Circumference

In order to get:

Crown width – Take your circumference and divide that number by pi (3.14).

Hat height – Take your circumference divided by 10 and multiply by 4.

Circumference -Take a measuring tape and measure around your head above the ears. I like to subtract an inch or so off of this measurement so the beanie sits snugly (especially if your are crocheting with stretchy/squishy yarn)

So in the picture above, the circumference for this hat is about 16 inches. In order for me to get the crown width, I took 16/3.14 which is right about 5. So 5 inches for the width. 

To know how long to crochet my hat (the hat height), I took 16/10 x 4. So 16 divided by 10 is 1.6. Take 1.6 times 4 and you get 6.4. 6.4 inches is how long I want my hat to be in order for the proportions to be correct.

You can use this chart below to see average measurements per age.

Happy crocheting!