Patterns Archives - Page 3 of 5 -

Materials:

White Crochet Thread from Red Heart Super Saver Size 10, 1000 yards x 1
1.65 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Marker (optional)

Size:

10.5 in x 58 in

Please note that your size may differ depending on your tension.

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Part 2/4

Row 45: going down, turn, CH4, make 9 open squares, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares)
Row 46: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares)
Row 47: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until the first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares)
Row 48: going up, repeat row 47
Row 49: going down, turn, CH4, make 10 open squares (should have last open square on top of a closed square from previous row), make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares)
Row 50: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares)
Row 51: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares)
Row 52: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (28 open squares, 10 closed squares)
Row 53: going down, repeat row 52
Row 54: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make a closed square, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (34 open squares, 4 closed squares)
Row 55: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make a closed square, make open squares until end of row. (34 open squares, 4 closed squares)
Row 56: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares before the first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares, 3 closed squares)
Row 57: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (34 open squares, 4 closed squares)
Row 58: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make open squares until the end of row. (36 open squares, 2 closed squares) the second Pikachu’s tail is now complete
Row 59: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (33 open squares, 5 closed squares)
Row 60: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares from first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares)
Row 61: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make open square until end of row. (27 open squares, 10 closed squares)
Row 62: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares)
Row 63: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 2 open squares, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares)
Row 64: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until 2 open squares before first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares)
Row 65: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until 1 open square before first closed square from previous row, make 17 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (21 open squares, 17 closed squares)
Row 66: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 15 closed squares, make open square until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares)
Row 67: going down, turn, CH4, make open square until 4 open squares before first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 15 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (20 open squares, 18 closed squares)
Row 68: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 more open squares, make 10 closed squares, make 3 open squares, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (25 open squares, 13 closed squares)
Row 69: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until two squares before first closed square from previous row, make a closed square, make an open square, make another closed square, make 2 open squares, make 14 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 70: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 12 closed squares, make 2 closed squares, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 71: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 open squares, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 72: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 11 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 73: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 11 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (23 open squares, 15 closed squares).
Row 74: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 12 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 4 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 75: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 closed square, make 1 open square, make 17 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (20 open squares, 18 closed squares).
Row 76: goin up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 5 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 10 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (22 open squares, 16 closed squares).
Row 77: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 1 closed square, make 2 open square, make 1 closed square, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 78: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 3 closed squares, make 1 open square, make 2 closed squares, make 4 open squares, make 6 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (27 open squares, 11 closed squares).
Row 79: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 7 closed squares, make 2 open squares, make 5 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 80: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 1 more open square, make 12 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (26 open squares, 12 closed squares).
Row 81: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 3 closed squares, make 3 open squares, 5 closed squares. (30 open squares, 8 closed squares).
Row 82: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 10 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (28 open squares, 10 closed squares).
Row 83: going down, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 more open squares, make 7 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (31 open squares, 7 closed squares).
Row 84: going up, turn, CH4, make open squares until first closed square from previous row, make 2 more open squares, make 3 closed squares, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares, 3 closed squares).
Row 85-86: going down, then up, turn, CH4, make open squares until end of row. (35 open squares).

Congratulations! You’ve finished your 2nd Pikachu, only 2 more to go! Take a rest, give your wrists a break and we’ll continue on to Part 3.

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern Part 1/4

by strommercrafts / July 19, 2022

Hello everyone, I’m excited to show off my latest crochet pattern…a Crochet Pikachu Table Runner! I’ve been in love with using small crochet thread by Red Heart Super Saver recently (which is how I made this piece).

I’ve decided to make this crochet pikachu table runner a 4 part series, this first part will be fairly long, however that is to get you used to the filet crochet technique I’m using here. I will link the parts later in this post once they are complete.

Click here for Part 2.

The funny thing about this pattern is that I was actually trying to figure out how I could make a pikachu doily instead…but it turned out to be WAY too difficult for me to do. I just couldn’t get pikachu small enough to make out all the necessary details in the doily. However, the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern was born!

It will be helpful if you know how to filet crochet already, but if you don’t, no worries. I have the crochet math figured out for you, and after a few rows, you’ll get the hang of it!

If you’re a visual person, there’s a PDF download of the chart I used below. The white color = open squares and the black color = closed squares. Keep in mind that this chart reads differently than previous charts I’ve created. Instead of crocheting left to right and working up, you will need to crochet up and down and to the right if looking at the chart.

Why would I do it this way? It might seem a little confusing to read it like this (and you can always print the PDF out and turn it), but this helps prevent a lot of frogging if you mess up. It is super not fun to pull out a long row of crochet because you misplaced 1 closed block, but if it happens on the short side, it doesn’t hurt as bad (in my opinion anyways).

Stick around for the border too! I think the border completes this piece and gives it a vintage crochet vibe that I was shooting for. Borders just make crochet pieces look so much better, but they’re always optional.

Materials:

White Crochet Thread from Red Heart Super Saver Size 10, 1000 yards x 1
1.65 mm crochet hook – I actually bought this set because I could not for the life of me, find a single 1.65 mm crochet hook in store.
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Marker (optional, but helpful in the beginning. You can also use a paperclip or a scrap piece of yarn)

Size:

My table runner ended up being about 10.5 in x 58 in

Please note that your size may differ depending on your tension.

Time to Complete:

The Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern took me about 2 weeks of inconsistent crocheting to complete. Your time may vary.

Abbreviations:

Please note that these are in US terms not UK.

ST(s) – stitch(es)
SL ST – slip stitch
CH – chain
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
CH3 PICOT – chain 3 stitches, slip stitch in last stitch made

Important Notes:

The Math: 38 squares x2 = 76+4 chs. The +4 is for the turning ch plus a ch 1.
The filet crochet method used for this pattern includes the 3DC method. That means that a total of 3 DC makes an open or closed square.
The CH3’s at the beginning of the row counts as a DC.
At the end of the rows, I have included the words up and down. This is based on looking the PDF chart.
The border makes a beautiful finish, however the stitches on the long side before the corner, will not line up evenly like on the short side. This makes the border slightly off on those sides. I’ve made adjustments to the pattern to make it less noticeable, and when you’re finished it will be difficult to tell.

If you make this pattern and post to social media, please don’t forget to tag me on Instagram @strommercrafts! Please do not claim this pattern as your own.

Crochet Pikachu Table Runner Pattern

The Math: 38 squares x2 = 76+4 chs, dc in 6th ch from hook

CH 80

1st Pikachu

Row 1: DC in 6th ch from hook, CH1, skip a CH, DC in next CH, all the way to the end. (38 open squares) down. (Place your stitch marker, paperclip, or scrap piece of yarn on one side so you can determine which direction you were going when you need to stop).
Row 2: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, all the way to the end, place last DC in 3rd CH from last row’s CH4 (this is how you will end all rows throughout this pattern). (38 open squares) up
Row 3: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (you should have 3 open squares at this point). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 6 times), (now you should have 6 closed blocks). CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row. (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down
Row 4: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you get to the first closed block from previous row), DC in next 12 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) up
Row 5-6: Repeat Row 4 (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down, up
Row 7: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times, CH1, skip a DC, DC in next DC), (this will make an open square on top of a closed square from the previous row). (DC in next 10 STS, DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (this creates a closed square on top of an open square from previous row). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down
Row 8: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 12 STS. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) up
Row 9: Repeat Row 8 (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) down
Row 10: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue this and stop 1 open square before the series of closed squares), DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC (you have a closed square on top of an open square from previous row), DC in next 10 STS, CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (32 open squares, 6 closed squares) up
Row 11: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you reach first closed square from previous row), DC in next 12 STS. (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times, you will have 3 closed blocks on top of 3 open squares from previous row). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) down
Row 12: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 18 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) up
Row 13: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 18 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next Dc x 3 times, you will have 3 closed squares on top of 3 open squares from previous row. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) down
Row 14: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 2 times, you will have 2 open squares on top of 2 closed squares from previous row). DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 6 times, 6 open squares on top of 6 closed squares from previous row). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (34 open squares, 4 closed squares) up
Row 15: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), (DC, skip a ST, DC in next ST, 1 open square on top of closed square from previous row), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, 1 open square on top of 1 open square from previous), DC in next 2 STS. (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (34 open squares, 4 closed squares) down
Row 16: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square, DC in CH1 space, DC in next SC, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 3 times, 3 open squares on top of 3 closed squares), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row. (36 open squares, 2 closed squares) up. At this point you should have most of Pikachu’s tail completed.
Row 17: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC). (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (33 open squares, 5 closed blocks) down
Row 18: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 3 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times), DC in next 6 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row) (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) up
Row 19: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 16 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (27 open squares, 11 closed squares) down
Row 20: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (25 open squares, 13 closed squares) up
Row 21: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 26 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (23 open squares, 15 closed squares) down
Row 22: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 24 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (22 open squares, 16 closed squares) up
Row 23: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row). (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC, you will have made 4 open squares), DC in next 24 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (25 open squares, 13 closed squares). Down
Row 24: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC. until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 4 times), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) up
Row 25: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 4 times), DC in next 8 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 3 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) down
Row 26: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until you reach the first closed square from previous row), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 12 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next ST x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (29 open squares, 9 closed squares) up
Row 27: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, continue until 1 open square before the first closed square from previous row), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 4 times), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 6 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (24 open squares, 14 closed squares). Down
Row 28: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 8 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 10 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (DC in next CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (19 open squares, 19 closed squares). Up
Row 29: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH 1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 20 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (19 open squares, 19 closed squares). Down
Row 30: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 20 STS, (CH 1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH 1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (19 open squares, 19 closed squares) Up
Row 31: Turn, CH4, skip CH 1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (18 open squares, 20 closed squares) Down
Row 32: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 2 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (21 open squares, 17 closed squares) up
Row 33: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 22 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (22 open squares, 16 closed squares). Down
Row 34: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 26 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 2 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (24 open squares, 14 closed squares) Up
Row 35: start of Pikachu’s head Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (26 open squares, 12 closed squares) down
Row 36: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (28 open squares, 10 closed squares), Up
Row 37: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 14 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC), DC in next 4 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (27 open squares, 11 closed squares). Down
Row 38: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 6 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (25 open squares, 13 closed squares). Up
Row 39: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 3 times), DC in next 10 STS, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (28 open squares, 10 closed squares) down
Row 40: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 8 STS, (DC in CH1 space, DC in next DC x 3 times), DC in next 8 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (27 open squares, 11 closed squares) up
Row 41: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 2 times), DC in next 16 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (30 open squares, 8 closed squares). Down
Row 42: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row), (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC), DC in next 6 STS, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 4 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until end of row). (35 closed squares, 3 open squares) Up
Row 43-44: Turn, CH4, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC, until first closed square from previous row, (CH1, skip a ST, DC in next DC x 3 times), (CH1, skip CH1 space, DC in next DC until end of row). (38 closed squares).

You’ve now completed part 1/4 of the Crochet Pikachu Table Runner.

I will be posting the next parts here as I finish them.

Click here for Part 2.

Thank you as always, if you see a mistake or have questions let me know in the comments below.

Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern – The Magic Mirror

by strommercrafts / July 12, 2022

Hello everyone, today I have a free crochet baby blanket pattern for you. This is the Magic Mirror blanket, made with self striping yarn from Lion Brand! The line is called Mandala in the Warlock color.

This is my first time using a self striping yarn (also known as a cake), and I’m pleasantly surprised with how the stripes lined up! I had to name this blanket something magical…the yarn is called Warlock of course! I think that the way the squares around the center are made reminded me of a colorful mirror.

It’s also really nice that you don’t have to cut your yarn and add new colors every couple of rows with self striping yarn.

I’m using one ball of Lion Brand’s Mandala in Warlock for this pattern. It’s a little bit smaller than a typical crochet baby blanket, but it’s great for using as a blanket for your baby in a car seat or stroller, or even for those little preemie babies (if the nurses will let you bring it in the NICU).

I’ve created this blanket from the center out. I prefer center out crochet when I’m not sure how big my blanket will be, this helps me keep a nice, even square shape no matter what round I need to stop. I’m using a magic circle (magic ring) to start, but you can easily ch 2 and crochet into the first ch instead.

I’m using a stitch called the Wattle Stitch. The stitch is simple once you get started, it is composed of a (sc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch, then skipping 2 sts or skipping to reach the next chain space.

Okay, let’s get started!

Size

25 in x 25 in, depending on your tension

Time to Complete

This crochet baby blanket took me about 2-3 days of inconsistent crocheting to complete.

Please note that some of these links may be affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

5mm crochet hook
1 ball of Lion Brand’s Mandala in Warlock (590 yards)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

Please note that these are in US terms, not UK.

Mc – magic circle
Ch(s) – chain(s)
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet

Helpful Tips:

The starting ch 1’s in each row do not count as a stitch.
We will be turning after finishing each row, this gives the wattle stitch a great looking texture.
How the corners are crocheted will alternate rounds. So round 2, 4, 6, 8 etc. will have the same type of corner and rounds 3, 5, 7, 9, etc. will have the same type or corner. I found that using wattle stitches to increase in the corners every round made it wave too much. I suspect it is from having too many stitches in the corners, so alternating made the blanket lay flat.

Magic Mirror Crochet Baby Blanket

Round 1: 12 sc in mc (alternatively you can ch 2 and sc in first ch), sl st to first sc

Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as st), *(sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in same st, skip 2 sts* repeat from *to* around, sl st to first sc. As a helpful reminder, the series of (sc, ch 1, dc) is the Wattle Stitch.

Round 3: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, *skip next st, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip next st, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip next 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* around until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip a st, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc.

Round 4: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, skip next 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 2 space, skip next 2 sts (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip next 2 sts* repeat from *to* around until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc.
Round 5: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, *skip next st, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip next st, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip 2 sts x3 times], skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, skip a st, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc.
Round 6: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, skip 2 sts, *(sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 2 space, skip 2 sts, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space, skip 2 sts x4 times]* repeat from *to* until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space, [skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 space x2 times], sl st to first sc.

At this point, hopefully you have the hang of how we are increasing our square with the wattle stitch, I’m going to refine how I describe the following rounds.

Round 7: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in same ch 1 space, skip 2 sts until next ch 2 space], *(sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, [skip st(s) until next ch 1 space, (sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space until next ch 2 space]* repeat from *to* around until last ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space until last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc
Round 8: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, wattle stitch, aka (sc, ch 1, dc) until the first ch 2 space, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) in ch 2 space, wattle stitch around, make the (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) for your ch 2 corners, sl st to first sc.
Round 9: turn, sl st into next st, sl st again into ch 1 space, ch 1, wattle stitch until the first ch 2 space, (sc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 corner space, wattle stitch around, make the (sc, ch 2, dc) for your ch 2 corners, sl st to first sc
Round 10: repeat round 8
Round 11: repeat round 9

Continuing like this, make your wattle stitches in the ch 1 spaces, increase in the corners by alternating rounds between the (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, sc, ch 1, dc) and the (sc, ch 2, dc). Sl st to the beginning of the round and turn.

After completing the last round, sl st to first st, cut yarn with scissors, pull through and weave in your end.

And there’s your Magic Mirror Crochet Baby Blanket! I hope you found this free crochet pattern useful. I really love the jewel tones in this blanket and the way the stripes lined up.

Did you make this pattern? Let me know on Instagram @strommercrafts!

This post was all about how to make the Magic Mirror Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern.

Crochet Witch Hat Pattern

by strommercrafts / July 6, 2022

Hello everyone, today I have a crochet witch hat pattern for you! A few years ago I had my oldest daughter dress as a cute little witch for Halloween, but the one essential piece I needed was a witch hat.

I thought, heck, I could make one of those, BUT I could not find a pattern for a toddler that I really liked. So I made my own instead!

This post is all about how to crochet a witch hat with step by step instructions and pictures.

Can you make this hat different sizes?

Yes! The witch hat pattern I have written below fits my 4 year old perfectly and my 2.5 year old (a little big). If you’re needing a smaller or bigger size, you can stop early or add more rows. The formula for making the cone shape is increasing, doing a row of single crochets, doing another row of increases, then another row of single crochets and so on until you reach the desired size.

If you alter the size, keep in mind that you’ll have to adjust the crochet band and possibly the bow. You may need to decrease or add the amount of brim too.

I suggest using a measuring tape to obtain accurate head measurements and then crocheting until you meet those measurements. Here is a head measurement guide that has average head circumferences by age if you need help.

What is the best yarn to use for this pattern?

I use acrylic yarn from Red Heart Super Saver. Acrylic yarn is perfect for keeping the witch hat and brim stiff. I think that if you use a softer yarn, your hat would most likely slouch and be floppier.

Do I have to crochet the band and bow?

Nope! Honestly, it would be easier to buy a ribbon and tie a pretty bow around the hat. If you’re like me, I didn’t have any ribbon, nor did I feel like buying any…so I used orange yarn from my stash instead.

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for your support.

Materials Needed:

5 mm crochet hook
Black Yarn by Red Heart Super Saver (1 skein)
Pumpkin Yarn by Red Heart Super Saver (1 skein)
Stitch marker
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations Used:

Please note that these are in US terms, not UK.

Mc – magic circle/ring (see this post if you need help putting this on your hook)
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch(s) – chain(s)
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet

Helpful Tips:

The number in parenthesis at the end of the rows indicates the number of stitches you should have.
The hat is made in a continuous row, meaning that we will not be slip stitching and chaining to get to the next row height. This is where you will need a stitch marker to help you determine the beginning and end of your rounds. You can use a scrap piece of yarn or a paperclip if you don’t have stitch markers on hand.
The first round of the brim is made by crocheting in the front loops. If you look at the top your stitches, you’ll notice it looks like a little V, insert your hook into the part of the V that is closest to you. That is the front loop.
Sew the bow directly onto the band (not into the hat), this helps prevent a bunch of uncomfortable yarn pushing against your head.

Crochet Witch Hat Pattern

Row 1: make a mc, ch 1 (does not count as st), 5 hdc in mc (5 sts)
Row 2: 1 hdc in each st around (5 sts)
Row 3: 2 hdc in each st around (10 sts)
Row 4: 1 hdc in each st around (10 sts)
Row 5: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st (15 sts)
Row 6: 1 hdc in each st around (15 sts)
Row 7: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts (20 sts)
Row 8: 1 hdc in each around (20 sts)
Row 9: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts (25 sts)
Row 10: 1 hdc in each st around (25 sts)
Row 11: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts (30 sts)
Row 12: 1 hdc in each st around (30 sts)
Row 13: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts (35 sts)
Row 14: 1 hdc in each st around (35 sts)
Row 15: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts (40 sts)
Row 16: 1 hdc in each st around (40 sts)
Row 17: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts (45 sts)
Row 18: 1 hdc in each st around (45 sts)
Row 19: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts (50 sts)
Row 20: 1 hdc in each st around (50 sts)
Row 21: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 9 sts (55 sts)
Row 22: 1 hdc in each st around (55 sts)
Row 23: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 10 sts (60 sts)
Row 24: 1 hdc in each st around (60 sts)
Row 25: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 11 sts (65 sts)
Row 26: 1 hdc in each st around (65 sts)
Row 27: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 12 sts (70 sts)
Row 28: 1 hdc in each st around (70 sts)
Row 29: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 13 sts (75 sts)
Row 30: 1 hdc in each st around (75 sts)
Row 31: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 14 sts (80 sts)
Row 32: 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to first st (80 sts)

If you need to make your size larger, continue in this fashion until you reach your desired size For smaller sizes, stop at whatever row you feel is appropriate.

Crochet Witch Hat Brim

Row 33: ch 1, (in front loop) 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (90 sts)
Row 34: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (100 sts)
Row 35: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (110 sts)
Row 36: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (120 sts)
Row 37: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (130 sts)
Row 38: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (140 sts)
Row 39: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st around, sl st to first st (150 sts)

Keep increasing in this fashion if you need a longer brim or stop earlier for a shorter brim.

Cut yarn with scissors. Weave in end with tapestry needle.

Orange Bow (optional)

We will be making the bow in three different parts and sewing them together later.

You don’t have to make the bow or the band, but I think they give the witch hat a nice finishing touch, especially if you’re making this for a little girl.

Center Part:

This is easily adjustable by reducing or increasing the amount of starting chains.

Row 1: ch 31, without twisting, sl st to first st to create a loop (30 sts)
Row 2-7: turn, ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to first st (30 sts)

Leave a long tail, cut yarn with scissors and pull through. Take the tail and wrap it around the middle of the bow. Weave in the end back into the middle part to secure it.

Bow “Tails”:

This is adjustable by chaining less or more, and then placing increases in the beginning and end stitches of each row.

Row 1: ch 12, sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch across (11 sts)
Row 2: turn, ch 1 (does not count as a st this row and following rows), 2 sc in first st, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in last st (13 sts)
Row 3: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in last st (15 sts)
Row 4: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in last st (17 sts)
Row 5: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in last st (19 sts)
Row 6: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 17 sts, 2 sc in last st (21 sts)

Leave a long tail, cut yarn with scissors and pull through.

Weave in the tail back through the last row’s stitches until the 10th stitch. Wrap your tail around the middle of the “tails.” Hold the tails open firmly with one hand so the side that we weaved the tail in doesn’t curl on you.

Weave in the end back into the middle part to secure it.

Bow Middle Section:

This part is made to hide the yarn that we wrapped around the center and tails.

Adjust length by chaining more chains in the beginning.

Row 1: ch 14, turn, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (13 sts)

Leave a long tail, cut yarn with scissors and pull through.

Bow Assembly:

Sew together all three parts by placing the middle section over the center and tail pieces. Make sure the tail piece is sew with the shorter side on top.

This part can be a little difficult as you are trying to keep all the pieces together, but don’t sweat it! I ended up having to overlap the middle section to get the tightness I wanted.

Orange Band around Witch Hat:

Adjust size by decreasing or increasing the amount of rows. You want to make sure the band will fit around the hat nicely without it being too short or too long.

Row 1: ch 5, insert hook into second ch from hook, sc in each st across (4 sts)
Row 2: turn, ch 1, (does not count as a stitch), sc in each st across (4 sts)
Row 3-84: Repeat row 2

My band length is approximately 23.5 inches.

Fold the band together without twisting. Insert hook into both sts and sl st across to sew together.

Bow and Band Assembly

After you’ve sewed the bow pieces together, sew the bow directly onto where you joined the band together.

Now place the band with the bow onto the hat. Cut a very long piece of orange yarn, attach to the back side of the band and sew the band across the hat. Try to sew in the same row of stitches on the hat to give the band a nice, even look.

Sew yarn securely. Cut any excess yarn off with scissors.

Your crochet witch hat is complete! I hope you found this pattern helpful, if you have any questions feel free to leave a comment below. Thank you and have a Happy Halloween!

Did you make this pattern? Tag me on instagram @strommercrafts.

This post was all about how to crochet a witch hat!

Crochet Halloween Pattern – Beginner Washcloth

by strommercrafts / June 27, 2022

If you’re looking for an easy crochet Halloween pattern, then look no further! Today I have a beginner friendly, Halloween washcloth pattern for you. When I was new to crocheting, I wanted more simple patterns, especially for Halloween (it’s my FAVORITE holiday). There’s a lot of awesome patterns out there, but I needed something that would have simple stitches, and test my ability to crochet a bit (color changes).

In this post, you’ll learn how to crochet a Halloween beginner washcloth.

This crochet Halloween pattern has two types of stitches, single crochet and double crochet. Each row alternates between two colors (orange and black) and single/double crochets.

I used yarn from Red Heart Super Saver for these crochet washcloths. I would say that their line of acrylic yarn is SUPER affordable and comes in so many different colors. This is great if you’re trying to learn your new hobby while saving some cash.

This Yarn Feels Too Scratchy! What Can I Do?

Even although acrylic yarn is cheap and comes in an array of colors, it does feel a little scratchy (at least in my opinion). That being said, don’t turn away from acrylic yarn just yet. There is a way to make it softer!

My number one favorite way to soften acrylic yarn is to WASH it.

Yep, it’s that easy. I wash my projects with cold water, laundry detergent and fabric softener along with my normal load. Once washed, place it in the dryer with a dryer sheet.

It usually comes out MUCH softer after this step. Now, the problem with washing is that you need to make sure your project will survive the wash. This is why it’s also important to weave in your ends really well.

Now, it might take another washing or two to get it to be super soft, but I find this to be the easiest way to make that cheap Red Heart Super Saver yarn less scratchy.

Feel free to use any type of yarn, it really doesn’t have to be acrylic, just make sure it’s a 4 medium weight, otherwise your finished size will be a little different.

How to Color Change in this Pattern

There will be color changes throughout this pattern, but they are at the end of the rows. If you’re not sure how to color change, there’s a lot of different ways to go about it. I personally like to color change this way:

Start making my last stitch, whether it be a single or double crochet, but don’t finish it all the way! Leave 2 loops on your hook, attach your new color by making a loop and placing it on your crochet hook. Pull the new color through the 2 loops.

If you need help color changing, I’ve made a post about How to Color Change in Crochet the Right Way that discusses my method.

Why you Should Carry Your Yarn

You can carry your yarn with you as you crochet if you hate weaving in ends (like I do). Carrying your yarn as you crochet will help when you need to switch colors, as you don’t need to cut with scissors every time.

In this crochet pattern, you won’t even see the yarn that you’re carrying between the stitches, even when you swap the colors. Some people don’t care that much, but for me, some projects, I REALLY don’t like seeing the carried yarn through the stitches.

To carry your yarn with you:

Take the previous yarn color and place it in front or behind the next stitch.
Crochet as normal, but make sure that the previous yarn color is also being worked over (instead of being left behind).
At the end of the row, when a color change is needed, don’t finish your stitch, drop the yarn color you were using and pick up the yarn you’ve been carrying with you. Pull the new color yarn through your unfinished stitch.

You don’t have to do it this way, if you’re more comfortable cutting your yarn and attaching your new color, that’s fine too!

Border Info

I’ve also placed a border on these washcloths, which consists of one simple row of single crochets. Borders aren’t absolutely necessary, but they make the final product look SO much cleaner.

When you reach your corner stitch, you’ll single crochet, chain 3, and single crochet all in the same stitch.

Alright, I think that’s enough talk, let’s jump into the pattern!

You Might Also Like:

Finished Size:

7” x 7” (give or take depending on your tension)

Please note that some of these links are affiliate links. That means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. You can find more information about our disclosure policy here. Thank you for helping out strommercrafts!

Materials Needed:

5 mm crochet hook
Black Yarn by Red Heart Super Saver 4 Medium Acrylic – <1 skein
Pumpkin Yarn by Red Heart Super Saver 4 Medium Acrylic – <1 skein
Tapestry Needle
Scissors (I finally got these ones and they’re super cute and super sharp)

Abbreviations:

CH – chain
ST(S) – stitch(es)
SL ST – slip stitch
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet

Helpful Tips:

The CH3’s on the DC rows count as a stitch.
The CH1’s on the SC rows do not count as a stitch.
The number in parenthesis at the end of a row indicates the number of stitches you should have when finished.

Crochet Halloween Pattern – Washcloth

With black yarn

CH 23

Row 1: DC in 3rd CH from hook, DC in each ST across (22 sts)

Switch to orange yarn

Row 2: CH1 (does not count as a SC), turn, SC in each ST across, place last SC in top of the CH3 from previous row (22 sts)

Switch to black yarn

Row 3: CH3 (counts as a DC), turn, DC in each ST across (22 sts)

Switch to orange

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Switch to black

Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6-13: Continue alternating between the orange SC row and the black DC row. Row 13 should be a row of the black DC.

Cut the orange yarn, but leave the black yarn on.

Border

Carry the rest of the orange yarn with you (or you can weave in with tapestry needle if you prefer).

Row 1: CH1, (SC in the same ST, CH1, SC) in same ST, going down the side, SC in the “leg” of the DC, SC in the orange SC, SC in the top of the DC, then SC in the “leg” of the same DC. Continue SC down the side this way until the next corner. (SC, CH1, SC) in the corner ST. SC in each ST across the next side, create another (SC, CH1, SC) in the 3rd corner. Repeat how you SC up the next side like you did previously, but you’ll notice the CH3’s instead of DC. SC in the 1st and 2nd CH’s of those CH3’s. (SC, CH1, SC) in the 4th corner. SC across the top, SL ST into the first SC you made.

Cut yarn, pull through, weave in end with tapestry needle.

For the Other Washcloth,

start with the opposite color that you started with (in this case it will be orange), CH23, and repeat rows 1-13. Add the border when finished.

That’s it! Enjoy your Halloween with this beginner friendly, crochet washcloth! I absolutely love how they turned out, and i really like how the contrast of the black and orange yarn give it a neat zig zag pattern.

This post was all about how to make a crochet Halloween pattern dishcloth.

Thank you for reading, if you liked this pattern or have any questions, let me know in the comments below!

Crochet Infinity Veil for Mass – Free Pattern

by strommercrafts / June 10, 2022

Hello everyone, I hope summer has been treating you all well! Today I have a crochet infinity veil pattern for you.

The girls have been playing with my veil at mass and it got me inspired to make their own! I didn’t want to spend the money on getting veils for them when they’re this little, so I thought it would be fun to try making them myself.

I tried looking up a crochet pattern for a veil, but I couldn’t find much. It was mostly people trying to sell their finished crochet veils on Etsy (which I’m cheap so didn’t want to buy a pattern lol!). Or it was tutorials on how to sew your own veil together with different materials.

I did find this post helpful from Crocheting with Joy. I liked her idea of taking a shawl pattern and turning it into a veil. However, I personally wear an infinity veil and I wanted to recreate that style instead of a V shape.

This pattern does require a teeny tiny hook (1.65 mm to be exact) and size 10 crochet thread. The delicacy of the tiny thread gives it a lovely, lacy look.

This was very much a labor of love, it did take a long time to get the crochet infinity veil to the length that I wanted it. With that said, once you get the pattern down, it’s easy to tackle while you’re watching your favorite show or listening to a podcast.

Why wear a veil to mass?

Although wearing a veil to mass is no longer a requirement, some women may want to continue the tradition of wearing one to mass.

One of the main reasons why women veil at mass is to humble herself before God during the mass where Christ is present in the Eucharist.

It is also seen as being modest and respectful.

Check out some of my other patterns here!

Materials Needed:

Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White, size 10
1.65 mm crochet hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Stitch markers (option)

Abbreviations Used:

Please note that these abbreviations are in US terms.

Ch – chain
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Shell – 6 dc separated by ch 1s in same st. Or in simpler terms…dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc.

Crochet Infinity Veil for Mass Pattern:

You can make your own veil shorter or longer by chaining a series of 14 + 4 + 4. The 14 is the base repeat, the first +4 is to account for the 2 double crochets bordering on both sides, and the second +4 is to account for the turning chain. Please keep in mind that you will fold the crochet veil in half at the end to create the “infinity” part.

Ch 260

Protip: Use your stitch markers every 50 chs or a count of your choice. This helps if needing to recount.

Row 1: Dc in next ch, ch 1, skip 1 ch, (sc in next ch, ch 3, skip 2 chs, sc in next ch, x3 times), *ch 1, skip 2 chs, shell into next ch (dc, ch1, dc x6 times in same ch), ch 1, skip 2 chs, (sc in next ch, ch 3, skip 2 chs x3 times)* repeat from *to* until last 4 chs (should be finished with the shell at this point), ch 1, skip 2 chs, dc in last 2 chs

Row 2: Turn, ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1 and next dc, sc into the first space between the dc, ch 1, dc in the last shell made. *(Ch 3, sc into next open space into shell x 3 times). You should have 4 “petals” on top of the shell from the previous row. Ch 3, skip the next (sc, ch3 space, sc), and dc between the next (sc, ch3 space, sc). Ch 3 and dc in the same space. Ch 3, skip the last (sc, ch3, sc) and sc between the (dc, ch1, dc) in the next shell*. Repeat from *to* until the very last (dc, ch3, dc). Ch3, skip all sts and dc in next dc, dc in top ch of ch 3 from previous row.

Row 3: Turn, ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in next dc, *ch 1, skip ch 3 and shell into the (dc, ch3, dc) space. Ch 1, skip ch 3, sc into the first (sc, ch3, sc) space, (ch 3, sc into next space x2 times). You should have 3 “petals.”* Repeat from *to* until the last (sc, ch3, sc), ch 1, dc in next dc, dc in top ch of ch 3 from previous row.

Row 4: Turn, ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in next dc, *ch 3, place a (dc, ch3, dc) in the middle (sc, ch3, sc) petal, ch 3, sc into the first space between the dc, ch 1, dc in the last shell made. (Ch 3, sc into next open space into shell x 3 times). You should have 4 “petals” on top of the shell from the previous row.* Repeat from *to* until last petal made, ch 1, dc in next dc, dc in top ch of ch 3 from previous row.

Repeat rows 1-4 until desired length.

End on row 3.

Row 5: Turn, ch 1, 1 sc in next 2 dc, *1 sc in ch 1 space, 1 sc in next sc, (2 sc in next ch 3 space, 1 sc in next sc x3 times), (sc in next ch 1 space, 1 sc in next dc x6 times)* repeat from *to* until end of row, 1 sc in next 2 dc. Do not cut thread yet.

Sewing Together:

Fold in the crochet veil in half. Line the edges up and insert your hook through both sides. Slip stitch down the edge to sew together. Try your best to line up the stitches as evenly as possible for a clean look.

Cut thread with scissors and weave in ends with tapestry needle.

Here’s my oldest girl modeling the crochet veil. She was doing a great job being very serious for me lol!

Thank you as always. If you liked this pattern and want to share your crochet veil on Instagram, tag me @strommercrafts. I love to see everyone’s work!

Until next time.

Animal Crossing Crochet Tabletop Decor with Fringe

Animal Crossing Crochet Tabletop Pattern – Free Pattern

by strommercrafts / May 20, 2022

Hello and welcome back to another free crochet pattern, created by yours truly! Today I have for you an Animal Crossing Crochet Tabletop Pattern! Now that summer is here, I always tend to crochet more decorative items, because let’s be real…wearing acrylic crochet is not much fun in the heat.

Animal Crossing is another video game that is near and dear to my heart. I’ve been feeling a little nostalgic recently and I have fond memories of playing Animal Crossing during my childhood. It’s such a relaxing game with lots of open ended play.

I would use this as a centerpiece for your table or coffee table. It’s a little too tall (thick? lol!) to be a runner for an end table in my opinion. When completed (and prior to blocking), my piece measured roughly 31″ x 9.5″ before adding fringe.

The Animal Crossing Crochet Tabletop Pattern has the iconic leaf logo from the game in a repeat of three.

You’ll have to change between two colors throughout the pattern. I will explain my process below, however, feel free to use whatever method of color changing you prefer. If you need more help, you can check out my previous post on How to Color Change in Crochet the Right Way.

Tag me on Instagram with your finished projects @strommercrafts!

Thank you and I hope you enjoy this pattern! 🙂

Check out these other FREE Crochet Patterns!

Materials Needed:

5 mm crochet hook
1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver Worsted Weight Size 4 in Aran color
1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver Worsted Weight Size 4 in Thyme color
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Stitch marker (optional)

Abbreviations Used:

ch – chain
st(s) – stitch(es)
hdc – half double crochet
CTA – change to aran
CTT – change to thyme

Useful Tips:

I have written out all the color changes below, but I have a picture and PDF of the chart if you’re more of a visual person. If using the chart, each square = 1 hdc.
Read the chart left to right for row 1, right to left for row 2 and so on.
Use the stitch marker on one side to help you determine left from right.
When changing colors, you’ll always stop 1 st before the needed color change. Do not finish your hdc all the way (you’ll have 3 strands of yarn on your hook), put your new color on the hook and pull through.
- For example: I have aran on my hook and need to switch to thyme on the 10th st (or square if using the chart). On the 9th stitch I will color change as described above.
I tend to crochet the ends of my yarn along the way when I can. You can weave the ends in if you’d rather. If you weave in too many ends, you tend to get a little wave/bulge going in your work.
I chose to carry the aran color throughout the pattern, even when working on the leaves, but I dropped the thyme color only in the spaces between the leaves. (Due to the light aran color, you can really see the thyme color between stitches, which is fine, it’s just not my preference).

Animal Crossing Crochet Tabletop Pattern:

Row 1 – With Aran color, Ch 105, hdc in second chain from hook, 1 hdc in each ch until end of row. (104 sts)
Row 2 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 15 sts (don’t finish the 15th stitch all the way, with 3 strands of yarn on your hook, switch to green yarn and pull through. Do this for switching between colors throughout the pattern), *with green yarn, 1 hdc in next 7 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 25 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 7 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 18 sts (104 sts)

Row 3 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 17 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 20 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 11 sts (104 sts)
Row 4 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 17 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 15 sts*. Repeat from *to* two more times. (104 sts)
Row 5 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 17 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 16 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 16 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 16 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 7 sts (104 sts)
Row 6 – Turn, ch1, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 14 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 7 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next st, CTA, 1 hdc in next 10 sts*. Repeat from *to* two more times. (104 sts)
Row 7 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 9 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 10 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 9 sts. (104 sts)
Row 8 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 10 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 10 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 8 sts. (104 sts)
Row 9 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 10 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 10 sts. (104 sts)
Row 10 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 10 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 7 sts. (104 sts)
Row 11 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 7 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, CTA in next 10 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, CTA in next 11 sts. (104 sts)
Row 12 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 22 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 10 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 22 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 7 sts. (104 sts).
Row 13 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 7 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 22 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 10 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 22 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 11 sts. (104 sts)
Row 14 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, * CTT, 1 hdc in next 22 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 10 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 22 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 7 sts. (104 sts)
Row 15 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 7 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 21 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 11 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 21 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 12 sts. (104 sts)
Row 16 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 20 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 12 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 20 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 8 sts. (104 sts)
Row 17 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 9 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 19 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 13 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 19 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 12 sts. (104 sts)
Row 18 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 17 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 15 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 17 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 11 sts. (104 sts)
Row 19 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 15 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 17 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 15 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 13 sts. (104 sts)
Row 20 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 13 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 16 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 16 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 16 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 11 sts. (104 sts)
Row 21 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 10 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next st, CTT, 1 hdc in next 13 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 16 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next st, CTT, 1 hdc in next 13 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 14 sts (104 sts)
Row 22 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 15 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 16 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 9 sts (104 sts)
Row 23 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 9 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 16 sts*. Repeat from *to* two more times. (104 sts)
Row 24 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 18 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 18 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, CTT, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 8 sts. (104 sts)
Row 25 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 9 sts, *CTT, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 30 sts*. Repeat from *to* once more. CTT, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, CTA, 1 hdc in next 29 sts. (104 sts)
Row 26 – Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc in each st across (104 sts). Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in ned with tapestry needle.

Fringe:

Cut 3 strands of aran yarn about 8″ long

Line up strands and make a loop. Make sure the ends are lined up evenly.
Insert 5 mm hook from bottom to top in end of row 26.

Put your looped strands on the hook and pull through, but not all the way!
Pull the end of the strands through the loop, either with your hands or your hook.
Pull the strands snug.
Repeat steps in every other row all the way down both edges.
You’ll have to put the last two fringes next to each other.
Trim up any long strands with scissors.

And that is it! I hope this pattern was easy enough to follow! I would love to see your finished projects below…tag me on IG @strommercrafts!

Until next time! 🙂

Kyriakos Grizzly Crochet Pattern

by strommercrafts / February 26, 2022

If you don’t know who Kyriakos Grizzly is, he’s a huge guy from Greece who posts videos on YouTube of himself working out and weightlifting in unconventional ways.

He’s become a meme in the fitness community and has been named the Bloat Lord due to his massiveness and ability to move an incredible amount of weight.

I was inspired to crochet this image of Kyriakos Grizzly after watching one of his most famous workout videos on YouTube, which can be found here.

In this workout video, he shrugs like 7 plates worth of weight on each side of the bar and then screams loudly when he’s done.

For those of you who aren’t familiar with weight lifting, a plate is 25 lbs. So if my math is correct, he’s shrugging something crazy, like 350 lbs.

I can barely bench the bar, let alone hold that much weight. I think I’d probably collapse and die!

However, even if I can’t lift much weight, I’m still incredibly impressed. This is why I wanted to crochet the image of him screaming in that moment. That, and also my husband loves the meme, so I made it for him too!

If you’re interested in crocheting Kyriakos Grizzly screaming, keep reading!

Method Used

I used a method of crocheting called filet crochet to make this image. If you’re not familiar with how to filet crochet, I learned how to do it here.

I also used 3DC, so 3 double crochet in a row = 1 block filled OR 1 double crochet, a ch 1, and then another double crochet = 1 open block.

How Long Will This Take?

This piece took me around a month of working 1-2 hours a day to complete. This is due to using a tiny crochet hook and thread to get all the details in his face.

I also made a few mistakes and had to frog a couple of rows. So if you’re careful and pay attention (unlike me lol!), your timeline might look different.

Materials Used:

1.65 mm crochet hook
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread Size 10 in White (1000 yards) x 2
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Helpful Tips:

Below I have a link to the chart I used to make Kyriakos Grizzly’s face. You might have to create an account on Stitch Fiddle in order to view it, but I’m not entirely sure, but it’s totally free to do so.
On the chart; black squares = open blocks and white squares = closed blocks.
When you get to the end of a row, ch 3 and turn. This counts as a stitch.
If for some reason, the link is not working, I have a picture of the chart, although it may be difficult to see the squares.
I highly recommend finding a way to mark off squares as you go. I edited the chart on Stitch Fiddle and used different colored squares to show where I left off. You may also try to print out the chart and mark off as you go. Even writing down what row you’re on will be helpful.
You can also use a stitch marker or a scrap piece of thread/yarn to mark one side of the chart, so you don’t get turned around. I placed a stitch marker on the right side of my work so I could determine right from left (very helpful in the very beginning).

Kyriakos Grizzly Crochet Chart:

Link to Stitch Fiddle Chart of Kyriakos Grizzly: https://www.stitchfiddle.com/c/skcao8-jgdgil

Starting Chain: Chain 204, double crochet into 5th chain from hook. Follow the chart starting from the bottom from left to right, placing 3 double crochet per white block (remember that 1 double crochet will be shared with the next block when you are counting. To make it easier multiply the number of needed blocks by 2 and add 1 double crochet). For the black blocks, chain 1, skip a chain, and then double crochet in the next chain.

Continue until the end of the row, turn and ch 3 (counts as a double crochet) for row 2.

Follow the chart reading from right to left now for the second row. At the end of this row, place a double crochet in the top of the ch 3 from the previous row.

Keep crocheting each based on the chart, I recommend counting your open blocks and making sure they line up correctly, especially on Kyriakos Grizzly’s t-shirt.

Once the last row is completed, do not cut your thread!

Border: Chain 1, place a (single crochet, chain 1, single crochet) in the corner, single crochet down the side of the piece. Place another (single crochet, chain 1, single crochet) in the next corner stitch.

Continue single crocheting in each stitch across all sides and placing in the corners a (single crochet, chain 1, single crochet). Slip stitch to the initial chain 1, cut thread of scissors and pull through.

Weave in end with tapestry needle.

Blocking and Framing:

This is actually something I intend to do with this project, but just *haven’t* been able to do yet.

I like to block my projects using cardboard and pins, but I am currently out of cardboard large enough to do this with. So once I get my hands on a piece large enough, I will be blocking this to get framed.

As for framing, I plan on sewing the blocked piece with clear/invisible thread onto a dark place mat (I’ve heard using suede can be good, but sewing into it can be difficult). Once that’s completed, I will get this framed according to the blocked dimensions.

We have a framing business in our town that I plan on checking prices out on, however, I need to block and sew onto a place mat before doing this.

Once I complete those steps I will try to update this post with pictures of the framed piece!

Thank you as always and happy crocheting!

Crochet Legend of Zelda Pattern – Hearts

by strommercrafts / January 27, 2022

Hello everyone today I have another free, Zelda themed pattern; a Crochet Legend of Zelda Heart Pattern! I’ve recently been interested in a crochet technique called filet crochet. Have you ever heard of it? It creates a vintage vibe, and all you need is a super tiny hook and thread!

I think The Legend of Zelda series will always have a special place in my heart, it was one of the first video games that I ever played. The series of three hearts represents the amount of life you have when you start most Zelda games. As you play and get hurt by monsters, fall damage, etc., you lose parts or whole hearts until you collapse or replenish them.

Materials Needed:

1.65 mm crochet hook
Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in White (size 10) x 1
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Stitch marker (optional).

Abbreviations (US Terms):

ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet

Pattern Chart:

The image below is a helpful chart if you’re more of a visual learner.

Tips for this Pattern:

For this filet pattern, we use 3 dc to make a closed square and dc, ch1, dc for an open square.
The turning chain counts as a dc, ch 1 throughout the whole pattern.
The ch 1 spaces count as a stitch.
You can place a stitch marker on the left or right side to help you keep track of where you are, however once you start making the 3rd half heart, it’s not difficult to determine.
Repeat instructions enclosed in () by the number indicated at the end. Example: (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x3 times).

Crochet Legend of Zelda Hearts Pattern

Ch 104

Row 1: Dc in 6th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip a ch, dc in next ch.* Repeat from *to.* End with a dc in the last ch (100 sts/50 open squares).

Row 2: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, *ch1, skip ch1 space, dc in next dc* Repeat from *to* (50 open squares).

Row 3: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 7 times), (dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 2). At this point you should have 8 open squares and 2 closed squares. *(Ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 14), (dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 2 times).* Repeat *to* once more. (Ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 8 times). (44 open squares, 6 closed squares).

Row 4: Repeat row 3.

Row 5: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 6 times), *dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next 5 sts, (dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times). (Ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x11 times).* Repeat from *to* once more. Start of 3rd half heart. Dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next 3 sts, ch 1 skip a st, dc in next dc, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), (ch 1 skip ch 1 space , dc in next dc x6 times). (14 closed squares, 36 open squares).

Row 6: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 4 times). Dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st x2), ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next 5 dc, (dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times) (Ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x8 times), *dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next 11 sts, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times)* (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x8 times). Repeat from *to* once more, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x5 times). (21 closed squares, 29 open squares).

Row 7: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 4 times), *dc in next 16 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x8 times).* Repeat from to *to* once more. Dc in next 8 dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x3 times), dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1 skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x5 times). (21 closed squares, 29 open squares).

Row 8: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x3 times), dc in next 8 sts, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), *(ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 4 times), (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 16 sts, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times).* Repeat from *to* once more. (Ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x3 times). (18 open squares, 32 closed squares).

Row 9: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space ,dc in next dc (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), *dc in next 24 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x4 times.* Repeat from *to* once more. Dc in next 12 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x4 times), dc in next 4 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x3 times). (18 open squares, 32 closed squares).

Row 10: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc in next st (ch 1 skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x6 times), dc in next 12 sts, *dc in ch 1 space, dc in next st, (ch 1 skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x 2), dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next 25 sts.* Repeat from *to,* one more time, dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc, (ch 1 skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times). (14 open squares, 36 closed squares).

Row 11: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next 3 sts (ch 1 skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 22 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 22 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 8 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x6 times), dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times). (18 open squares, 32 closed squares).

Row 12: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x6 times), dc in next 8 sts, *(ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 22 sts.* Repeat from *to* once more, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times). (18 open squares, 32 closed squares).

Row 13: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next 3 dc, *(ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 22 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 2 sts.* Repeat from *to* once more. (Ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 8 sts, dc in ch 1 space, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x5 times), dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times). (19 open squares, 31 closed squares).

Row 14: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next 3 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x5 times), dc in next 10 sts, *(ch 1, skip, ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 22 sts.* Repeat from *to* once more. (Ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 2 sts, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times). (19 open squares, 31 closed squares).

Row 15: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st, *(dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), dc in next 6 sts, (ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st x2 times), dc in next 10 sts, ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st.* Repeat from *to* once more. (Dc in ch 1 space, dc in next st x2 times), dc in next 6 sts, (ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st x2 times), (dc in ch 1 space, dc in next dc x5 times), (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x3 times). (20 open squares, 30 closed squares).

Row 16: Turn, ch 4, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), ch 1, skip a st, dc in next 7 sts, ch 1, skip a st, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts, *ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x4 times), ch 1, skip a st, dc in next 7 sts, ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times), ch 1, skip a st, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from *to* once more. Ch 1, skip a st, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc x2 times). (32 open squares, 18 closed squares).

Row 17-18: Turn, ch 4, dc in next dc, *ch 1, skip ch 1 space/next st, dc in next dc.* Repeat from *to.* (50 open squares).

Border:

Turn, ch 1 (ch 1 does not count as a st), sc in each st across (sc inside the ch 1, not under), when you get to the end of the first row, (sc, ch 2, sc) for your corner stitch. Continue down the short side. See picture below for sc placement. Try to place a sc in the top and middle of the dcs.

The right most arrow points to the “top” of a dc, the middle arrow to the “middle” and the left arrow to the next “top.”

Place a (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next 3 corner spaces.

Continue until you finish the last corner, then sl st into first sc.

Cut thread with scissors and pull through. Weave in ends with tapestry needle.

Optional: Blocking

If you want a super straight, and clean looking finished product, I would suggest blocking your work. This step is optional, and you don’t have to do this if you like the way your project looks.

There are many different ways to do this, however, my favorite is to soak the project in some water, place it on a towel and gently pat/soak of the excess water. I use a scrap cardboard box to to lay it on and place pins around the project into the cardboard to “stretch” it out. Let it air dry (usually 24 hours+) and take the pins out.

Your crochet project should be much straighter!

And there it is! I hope you all enjoyed this Crochet Legend of Zelda Heart Pattern! Let me know what you think on Instagram by tagging me @strommercrafts with your finished project :).

Happy crocheting! Until next time xoxo.